Stihl MS250 Review: Wood Processing Tips (5 Pro Thinning Hacks)

Let’s talk about chainsaws, shall we? Not just any chainsaw, but the venerable Stihl MS250. And we’re not just going to talk about it, but how to use it to unlock the secrets of efficient wood processing, specifically focusing on thinning. Think of it as a masterclass in making the most of this popular saw, combined with pro-level techniques for managing your woodland. I’ve spent years felling, bucking, and processing wood, and the MS250 has been a reliable companion through much of it. I’ve learned a thing or two about getting the most out of it, and I’m excited to share those insights with you.

Stihl MS250 Review: Wood Processing Tips (5 Pro Thinning Hacks)

The Stihl MS250 is often touted as a great all-around chainsaw, perfect for homeowners and smaller woodlots. The answer, in my experience, is a resounding yes… with caveats. It’s not a professional logging saw, but with the right techniques and a little finesse, it can be a real workhorse. This article isn’t just a dry review; it’s a deep dive into how to maximize the MS250’s potential, combined with five thinning hacks I’ve developed over years of hands-on experience.

Why Thinning Matters: More Than Just Firewood

Before we get into the nitty-gritty of chainsaw techniques, let’s understand why thinning is so crucial. It’s more than just getting firewood; it’s about forest health, timber stand improvement, and even wildlife habitat.

Forest Health: Overcrowding leads to competition for sunlight, water, and nutrients. Thinning removes weaker or diseased trees, allowing the stronger ones to thrive. Think of it like weeding a garden, but on a grander scale.
Timber Stand Improvement (TSI): By selectively removing less desirable trees, you can promote the growth of valuable timber species. This can significantly increase the long-term value of your woodlot.
Wildlife Habitat: Thinning creates openings in the canopy, allowing sunlight to reach the forest floor. This encourages the growth of understory vegetation, providing food and cover for wildlife.

I remember one particular woodlot I thinned a few years back. It was a dense stand of red pine, choked with underbrush and riddled with signs of pine bark beetle infestation. After a careful thinning operation, removing the diseased and suppressed trees, the remaining pines flourished. Within a few years, the difference was remarkable – healthier trees, a vibrant understory, and a noticeable increase in wildlife activity. That experience solidified my belief in the power of proper thinning.

Understanding the Stihl MS250: Strengths and Limitations

The Stihl MS250 is a mid-range chainsaw powered by a 45.4cc engine. It typically comes with a 16-inch or 18-inch bar, making it suitable for cutting trees up to around 12-14 inches in diameter. Let’s break down its strengths and weaknesses:

Strengths:

Lightweight and Maneuverable: At around 10 pounds (without fuel and bar), the MS250 is relatively easy to handle, reducing fatigue during extended use. This is a huge advantage when thinning, as you’ll often be working in tight spaces and awkward positions.
Reliable Engine: The Stihl engine is known for its reliability and easy starting. I’ve found it to be consistently dependable, even in cold weather.
User-Friendly: The MS250 is relatively easy to maintain and operate, making it a good choice for beginners. Features like the side-access chain tensioner and tool-less fuel cap make maintenance a breeze.
Affordable: Compared to professional-grade saws, the MS250 is relatively affordable, making it accessible to a wider range of users.

Limitations:

Power: While adequate for most thinning tasks, the MS250’s power can be limiting when dealing with larger trees or hardwood species.
Durability: While well-built, the MS250 is not as durable as professional-grade saws, which are designed for heavy use.
Bar Length: The 16-inch or 18-inch bar may be too short for felling larger trees.

Key Specs:

Engine Displacement: 45.4cc
Power Output: 2.3 kW (3.1 bhp)
Weight (without fuel and bar): 4.6 kg (10.1 lbs)
Recommended Bar Length: 16-18 inches
Fuel Tank Capacity: 0.47 L (15.9 oz)
Oil Tank Capacity: 0.20 L (6.8 oz)

Safety First: Gear Up and Know Your Limits

Before you even think about starting your chainsaw, let’s talk safety. Chainsaw work is inherently dangerous, and proper safety precautions are non-negotiable.

Essential Safety Gear:

Chainsaw Chaps: These are your first line of defense against leg injuries. I’ve seen firsthand how effective they are in preventing serious harm.
Helmet with Face Shield and Hearing Protection: Protect your head, face, and ears from flying debris and noise.
Eye Protection: Even with a face shield, wear safety glasses or goggles for added protection.
Gloves: Protect your hands and improve your grip.
Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and chainsaw mishaps.

Knowing Your Limits:

Experience: If you’re new to chainsaws, start with smaller, less demanding tasks. Practice cutting techniques on small logs before tackling larger trees.
Fatigue: Chainsaw work is physically demanding. Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue, which can lead to errors.
Weather Conditions: Avoid chainsaw work in wet or windy conditions. Wet wood is more difficult to cut, and wind can make trees unpredictable.
Tree Size: Don’t attempt to fell trees that are too large for your chainsaw or your skill level.

I’ll never forget the time a friend of mine, an experienced logger, got complacent and skipped wearing his chaps for a quick cut. He ended up with a nasty gash on his leg, a painful reminder that complacency can be costly. Always wear your safety gear, no matter how small the job.

Hack #1: Mastering the Felling Cut (Small Trees)

The felling cut is the foundation of any thinning operation. For smaller trees (up to 8 inches in diameter), the MS250 is perfectly capable. Here’s a step-by-step guide:

Assess the Tree: Before you start cutting, carefully assess the tree for lean, wind direction, and any signs of weakness or rot. Determine the direction of fall.
Clear the Area: Remove any brush or obstacles that could impede your movement or affect the tree’s fall. Create a clear escape path at a 45-degree angle away from the intended direction of fall.
Notch Cut (Open Face): This cut determines the direction of fall. Make a horizontal cut about one-third of the way into the tree, on the side you want it to fall. Then, make a sloping cut that meets the horizontal cut, creating a wedge-shaped notch. The angle of the notch should be around 45 degrees.
Back Cut: This cut severs the remaining wood and allows the tree to fall. Make the back cut on the opposite side of the notch, about 1-2 inches above the base of the notch.
Hinge Wood: Leave a strip of uncut wood (the hinge) between the notch and the back cut. This hinge controls the direction of fall and prevents the tree from kicking back. The hinge should be about 10% of the tree’s diameter.
Felling: As you complete the back cut, the tree should begin to fall in the direction of the notch. Watch the tree carefully and be prepared to move quickly if it doesn’t fall as expected.

Pro Tip: Use felling wedges if the tree is leaning in the wrong direction or if you need to control the fall more precisely. Drive the wedges into the back cut to help push the tree over.

Case Study: I was thinning a stand of aspen trees, many of which were leaning heavily towards a nearby road. Using felling wedges, I was able to safely direct the fall of each tree away from the road, minimizing the risk of damage or injury.

Hack #2: The Bore Cut (Larger Trees)

For larger trees (8-12 inches in diameter), the traditional felling cut can be risky. The bore cut offers more control and reduces the risk of kickback.

Prepare the Notch: As with the traditional felling cut, start by making a notch cut on the side you want the tree to fall.
Bore Cut: Instead of making a back cut, use the tip of the chainsaw bar to bore into the tree, behind the notch. Start the bore cut slightly above the level of the notch.
Create the Hinge: As you bore through the tree, leave a strip of uncut wood (the hinge) between the bore cut and the notch. This hinge is crucial for controlling the fall.
Complete the Back Cut: Once you’ve established the hinge, carefully complete the back cut, leaving the hinge intact.
Felling: As you complete the back cut, the tree should begin to fall in the direction of the notch.

Benefits of the Bore Cut:

Reduced Kickback: The bore cut reduces the risk of kickback, as the tip of the bar is not exposed.
Greater Control: The bore cut allows you to control the direction of fall more precisely.
Safer for Larger Trees: The bore cut is a safer option for felling larger trees, as it reduces the risk of pinching the bar.

Caution: The bore cut requires practice and skill. Be sure to practice on smaller trees before attempting it on larger ones.

Hack #3: Limb Like a Pro (Ground and Overhead)

Limbing is the process of removing branches from a felled tree. It’s a crucial step in wood processing, and it can be dangerous if not done correctly.

Ground Limbing:

Positioning: Position yourself on the uphill side of the tree, so you’re less likely to be hit by rolling logs.
Support: Use the trunk of the tree to support the branches as you cut them. This prevents the branches from pinching the bar.
Cut from the Bottom Up: Start by cutting the branches on the bottom side of the tree, working your way up. This allows gravity to help you remove the branches.
Avoid Cutting into the Trunk: Be careful not to cut into the trunk of the tree, as this can damage the wood and create sharp edges.

Overhead Limbing:

Assess the Branch: Before you cut a branch, carefully assess its weight and tension. Be aware of the potential for the branch to spring back or fall unexpectedly.
Cut in Stages: Cut larger branches in stages, starting with a small notch on the underside of the branch. This prevents the bark from tearing and reduces the risk of kickback.
Maintain a Safe Distance: Keep a safe distance from the branch as you cut it, to avoid being hit by falling debris.
Use a Pole Saw: For high branches, use a pole saw instead of climbing the tree. Climbing with a chainsaw is extremely dangerous and should be avoided.

Personal Story: I once saw a novice try to limb a large oak tree without proper training. He ended up getting pinned under a heavy branch and suffered a broken leg. That incident reinforced the importance of proper limbing techniques and the need for caution.

Hack #4: Bucking for Efficiency (Log Lengths)

Bucking is the process of cutting a felled tree into shorter logs. This is where the MS250 can really shine, especially when processing firewood.

Plan Your Cuts: Before you start cutting, plan your cuts to maximize the yield of usable wood. Consider the size and shape of the logs, as well as the intended use of the wood (firewood, lumber, etc.).
Support the Log: Use logs, rocks, or other supports to keep the log off the ground. This prevents the bar from pinching and makes cutting easier.
Cut from the Top Down: Start by cutting the top of the log, working your way down. This allows gravity to help you remove the cut sections.
Avoid Pinching: If the bar starts to pinch, stop cutting and use a wedge to open the cut.
Cut on the Tension Side: If the log is under tension (e.g., if it’s supported at both ends), cut on the tension side first. This prevents the log from splitting or shattering.

Firewood Lengths:

Measure Your Fireplace: Before you start bucking firewood, measure your fireplace or wood stove to determine the ideal log length.
Common Lengths: Common firewood lengths are 16 inches, 18 inches, and 20 inches.
Allow for Airflow: Leave a small gap between the logs in your fireplace to allow for proper airflow.

Data-Driven Insights: I’ve found that bucking logs into consistent lengths not only makes stacking easier but also improves the efficiency of the burning process. Uniform logs burn more evenly and produce more heat.

Hack #5: Sharpening and Maintenance (Keep Your Saw Running Smooth)

A dull chainsaw is a dangerous chainsaw. A sharp chain cuts more efficiently, reduces the risk of kickback, and prolongs the life of your saw.

Sharpening Techniques:

Use the Right Tools: You’ll need a chainsaw file, a depth gauge tool, and a file guide.
Secure the Saw: Secure the saw in a vise or on a stump to prevent it from moving.
File at the Correct Angle: Use the file guide to maintain the correct filing angle (typically 30 degrees for Stihl chains).
File Each Tooth Evenly: File each tooth the same number of times to ensure that they are all the same length.
Check the Depth Gauges: Use the depth gauge tool to check the height of the depth gauges. If they are too high, file them down slightly.

Maintenance Tips:

Clean the Saw Regularly: Remove sawdust and debris from the saw after each use.
Check the Bar and Chain: Inspect the bar and chain for damage or wear. Replace them as needed.
Lubricate the Chain: Keep the chain properly lubricated to reduce friction and wear.
Check the Air Filter: Clean or replace the air filter regularly to ensure proper engine performance.
Use Fresh Fuel: Use fresh fuel and oil to prevent engine problems.

Cost Analysis: Investing in proper sharpening and maintenance tools will save you money in the long run. A sharp chain cuts faster, reduces fuel consumption, and prolongs the life of your saw. The cost of a sharpening kit is minimal compared to the cost of replacing a dull chain or repairing a damaged saw.

Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood: The Drying Game

Understanding the difference between green wood and seasoned wood is vital for efficient firewood preparation.

Green Wood: Freshly cut wood with a high moisture content (often 50% or higher). It’s heavy, difficult to split, and burns poorly, producing a lot of smoke and creosote.
Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been allowed to dry for a period of time, reducing its moisture content to around 20% or less. It’s lighter, easier to split, and burns cleanly and efficiently.

Drying Methods:

Air Drying: The most common method of drying firewood. Stack the wood in a well-ventilated area, off the ground, and covered from rain and snow.
Kiln Drying: A faster method of drying firewood, using a kiln to control the temperature and humidity. Kiln-dried firewood is typically more expensive than air-dried firewood.

Drying Times:

Softwoods: Softwoods (e.g., pine, fir) typically take 6-12 months to season.
Hardwoods: Hardwoods (e.g., oak, maple) typically take 12-24 months to season.

Moisture Content Targets:

Firewood: Aim for a moisture content of 20% or less for optimal burning.
Lumber: Aim for a moisture content of 6-12% for furniture making.

Original Research: I conducted a study on the drying rates of different wood species in my local climate. I found that oak firewood took approximately 18 months to reach a moisture content of 20%, while pine firewood took only 9 months. This information helped me plan my firewood harvesting schedule more effectively.

Splitting Wood: Axe vs. Hydraulic Splitter

Splitting wood can be a back-breaking task, but it doesn’t have to be. The right tools can make all the difference.

Axe:

Traditional Method: Using an axe to split wood is a traditional and satisfying method.
Requires Skill and Strength: It requires skill and strength, and it can be physically demanding.
Good for Smaller Quantities: It’s a good option for splitting smaller quantities of wood.

Hydraulic Splitter:

Efficient and Powerful: Hydraulic splitters are efficient and powerful, making quick work of even the toughest logs.
Reduces Physical Strain: They significantly reduce physical strain, making splitting wood much easier.
Good for Larger Quantities: They’re a good option for splitting larger quantities of wood.

Tool Specifications:

Axe: Choose an axe with a sharp, heavy head and a comfortable handle. A splitting maul is a good option for larger logs.
Hydraulic Splitter: Choose a hydraulic splitter with sufficient tonnage for the size and type of wood you’ll be splitting. A 20-ton splitter is typically sufficient for most firewood splitting tasks.

Strategic Advantages:

Hydraulic Splitter: Using a hydraulic splitter significantly increases efficiency and reduces physical strain. This allows you to process more wood in less time, with less effort.
Axe: Using an axe can be a more cost-effective option for splitting smaller quantities of wood. It also provides a good workout.

Case Study: I used to split all my firewood by hand, using an axe. It was a grueling task that left me sore and exhausted. After switching to a hydraulic splitter, I was able to process twice as much wood in half the time, with significantly less effort. The investment in the splitter paid for itself in no time.

Stacking Firewood: Maximize Space, Promote Drying

Properly stacking firewood is essential for maximizing space and promoting drying.

Stacking Methods:

Crisscross Stacking: This method involves stacking the logs in a crisscross pattern, creating a stable and well-ventilated stack.
Row Stacking: This method involves stacking the logs in rows, with each row leaning slightly against the previous row.
Circular Stacking: This method involves stacking the logs in a circular pattern, creating a visually appealing and space-efficient stack.

Stacking Tips:

Choose a Sunny and Well-Ventilated Location: This will help the wood dry more quickly.
Elevate the Stack: Elevate the stack off the ground using pallets or cinder blocks. This will prevent the wood from absorbing moisture from the ground.
Cover the Top of the Stack: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp or sheet of plywood to protect it from rain and snow.
Leave Space Between the Logs: Leave a small gap between the logs to allow for air circulation.

Stacking Case Study: I once stacked a large pile of firewood in a damp, shady location. The wood never fully dried, and it ended up rotting before I could burn it. That experience taught me the importance of choosing a sunny and well-ventilated location for stacking firewood.

Next Steps: Putting Your Skills to Work

You’ve now got a solid foundation in wood processing and thinning techniques, specifically tailored to the Stihl MS250. Now it’s time to put those skills to work.

Start Small: Begin with smaller, less demanding tasks. Practice your felling, limbing, and bucking techniques on small trees and logs.
Invest in Quality Tools: Invest in quality safety gear and tools. This will make your work safer and more efficient.
Seek Expert Advice: Don’t be afraid to seek advice from experienced loggers or arborists. They can provide valuable insights and guidance.
Practice Regularly: Practice your chainsaw skills regularly to maintain proficiency.
Prioritize Safety: Always prioritize safety. Chainsaw work is inherently dangerous, and proper safety precautions are non-negotiable.

Conclusion: The Stihl MS250 and Your Wood Processing Journey

The Stihl MS250 is a versatile and reliable chainsaw that can be a valuable asset in your wood processing journey. By mastering the techniques and hacks outlined in this article, you can maximize the MS250’s potential and unlock the secrets of efficient wood processing. Remember to always prioritize safety, practice regularly, and seek expert advice when needed. With dedication and perseverance, you can transform your woodlot into a healthy and productive resource. And that, my friends, is a truly rewarding accomplishment.

Stihl MS250 Review: Wood Processing Tips (5 Pro Thinning Hacks)