Stihl MS250 Chainsaw Tips (5 Pro Hacks for Firewood Cutting)

Introduction: Mastering the Stihl MS250 for Firewood: My Journey from Novice to Pro in the Pacific Northwest

Living here in the Pacific Northwest, where the scent of Douglas fir and Western red cedar hangs heavy in the air, firewood isn’t just a luxury; it’s a necessity. For years, I heated my small cabin almost entirely with wood, relying on a trusty Stihl MS250 chainsaw to get the job done. Now, I’m not talking about simply felling a tree and hacking it into vaguely log-shaped pieces. I’m talking about efficiently, safely, and intelligently processing wood to keep my home warm through those long, damp winters.

Over time, I’ve learned a thing or two about maximizing the MS250’s capabilities for firewood cutting. This isn’t just about pulling the trigger and letting the chain rip; it’s about understanding the saw, the wood, and the techniques that transform a back-breaking chore into a manageable, even enjoyable, task. I’ve made my share of mistakes – pinched bars, dull chains, and stacks that toppled over in the rain. But through it all, I’ve honed my skills, and I’m here to share my top five “pro hacks” to help you get the most out of your Stihl MS250 for firewood cutting.

Hack #1: Chain Sharpening – The Cornerstone of Efficient Cutting

Let’s be honest, a dull chain is a chainsaw’s worst enemy, and a dull MS250 chain is a real drag. I remember one particularly grueling weekend where I was trying to cut through some seasoned maple with a chain that had seen better days. The saw was bogging down, the cuts were ragged, and I was expending twice the energy for half the result. It was a painful lesson in the importance of proper chain sharpening.

Why Sharpening Matters

A sharp chain bites into the wood cleanly, creating efficient chips and reducing the strain on both the saw and the operator. A dull chain, on the other hand, tears at the wood, generating sawdust and heat, and putting unnecessary stress on the engine. Think of it like this: a sharp knife slices through a tomato effortlessly, while a dull one mashes it. The same principle applies to chainsaws and wood.

Data backs this up. Studies have shown that a properly sharpened chain can increase cutting efficiency by as much as 30-40%. This translates to less fuel consumption, reduced wear and tear on the saw, and less fatigue for you.

My Sharpening Method: A Step-by-Step Guide

Over the years, I’ve experimented with various sharpening methods, from hand files to electric grinders. While grinders are faster, I prefer the control and precision of hand filing, especially in the field. Here’s my go-to method:

1. Secure the Saw: Engage the chain brake and secure the saw in a vise or against a solid object.

2. Choose the Right File: Use a round file that matches the pitch of your chain (typically 5/32″ for the MS250). I also use a flat file for adjusting the depth gauges (rakers).

3. File at the Correct Angle: Most Stihl chains have markings on the cutter teeth to indicate the correct filing angle. Aim for this angle consistently on each tooth. Typically, this is around 30 degrees.

4. Consistent Strokes: Use smooth, even strokes, filing from the inside of the cutter tooth outwards. Apply light pressure and let the file do the work. I usually aim for 3-5 strokes per tooth.

5. Maintain Uniform Tooth Length: Keep an eye on the length of each cutter tooth. Uneven tooth lengths can cause the saw to cut unevenly or pull to one side.

6. Check and Adjust Depth Gauges (Rakers): The depth gauges, or rakers, control how deeply the cutter teeth bite into the wood. If the rakers are too high, the chain won’t cut effectively. If they’re too low, the chain will be too aggressive and prone to kickback. I use a flat file and a depth gauge tool to ensure the rakers are at the correct height, typically around 0.025″ below the cutter teeth.

7. Rotate the Chain: After sharpening a few teeth, rotate the chain to bring the next set of teeth into position.

8. Test Cut: After sharpening the entire chain, make a test cut to see how the saw performs. If the saw cuts straight and produces clean chips, you’re good to go. If it pulls to one side or produces sawdust, you may need to touch up the sharpening.

Pro Tips for Sharpening

• Invest in Quality Files: Cheap files dull quickly and can damage your chain.
• Use a Sharpening Guide: A sharpening guide can help you maintain the correct filing angle and depth.
• Clean the Chain Regularly: Before sharpening, clean the chain with a wire brush to remove dirt and debris.
• Don’t Over-Sharpen: Over-sharpening can weaken the cutter teeth and shorten the life of the chain.
• Learn to “Read” the Chain: Pay attention to how the chain is cutting. This will help you identify problems and adjust your sharpening technique accordingly. If the chain is producing fine sawdust, it’s likely dull. If it’s grabbing or kicking back, the depth gauges may be too low.

Case Study: Sharpening for Efficiency

I once worked on a project where I had to fell and buck several large oak trees. I started with a brand-new chain, but after a few hours of cutting, it began to dull. I took the time to properly sharpen the chain, and the difference was immediately noticeable. The saw cut through the oak with ease, and I was able to finish the project much faster and with less fatigue. It was a clear demonstration of the power of a sharp chain.

Hack #2: Mastering Felling Cuts: Precision and Safety First

Felling a tree is more than just aiming in a general direction and hoping for the best. It’s a calculated process that requires careful planning and precise execution. I’ve seen too many near-misses and outright accidents caused by improper felling techniques. One time, a friend of mine misjudged the lean of a tree, and it ended up falling in the opposite direction of where he intended, narrowly missing his truck.

Understanding Tree Lean and Tension

Before making any cuts, it’s crucial to assess the tree’s lean, the wind direction, and any potential hazards in the surrounding area. A tree will naturally fall in the direction of its lean, but wind can significantly alter its trajectory. I always use a plumb bob or a carpenter’s level to accurately determine the lean of the tree. This helps me plan my cuts and ensure the tree falls in the desired direction.

Tension and compression are also important factors to consider. The side of the tree that is being pulled (the outside of the bend) is under tension, while the side that is being pushed (the inside of the bend) is under compression. Understanding these forces will help you anticipate how the wood will react when you make your cuts.

The Notching Technique: A Controlled Fall

The notch is the most critical part of the felling process. It determines the direction of the fall and helps prevent the tree from splitting or barber-chairing (splitting upwards). There are several types of notches, but I prefer the conventional notch, which consists of a horizontal cut and an angled cut that meet to form a 90-degree angle.

1. Horizontal Cut: Start by making a horizontal cut on the side of the tree facing the direction you want it to fall. The depth of the cut should be about one-fifth to one-third of the tree’s diameter.

2. Angled Cut: Next, make an angled cut that intersects the horizontal cut at a 45-degree angle. This creates a wedge-shaped notch.

3. The Hinge: The hinge is the uncut wood between the notch and the back cut. It acts as a guide, controlling the speed and direction of the fall. The hinge should be about 10% of the tree’s diameter.

4. The Back Cut: The back cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch, slightly above the horizontal cut. It should be parallel to the horizontal cut, leaving the hinge intact.

5. Driving Wedges: For larger trees, I use felling wedges to help direct the fall. Insert the wedges into the back cut and drive them in with a sledgehammer. This will help push the tree over in the desired direction and prevent the saw from getting pinched.

Safety Considerations

• Clear the Area: Before felling a tree, clear a wide area around the base, removing any obstacles that could trip you or obstruct your escape route.
• Escape Routes: Plan two escape routes that are at a 45-degree angle away from the direction of the fall.
• Wear Proper PPE: Always wear a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and sturdy boots.
• Watch for Hazards: Be aware of overhead hazards, such as dead branches or power lines.
• Never Work Alone: Always have someone nearby in case of an emergency.

Data Point: Felling Accuracy

A study by the U.S. Forest Service found that experienced loggers using proper felling techniques can achieve a felling accuracy rate of over 90%. This means that the tree falls within a few feet of the intended target. This level of precision is essential for safety and efficiency.

Personal Anecdote

I once had to fell a large cottonwood tree that was leaning precariously over my neighbor’s shed. The tree was rotten at the base, making it even more challenging. I carefully assessed the lean, the wind direction, and the condition of the tree. I used a combination of notching and wedging to control the fall, and the tree landed exactly where I wanted it, avoiding any damage to the shed. It was a nerve-wracking experience, but it reinforced the importance of proper felling techniques.

Hack #3: Bucking Techniques: Maximizing Yield and Minimizing Strain

Bucking is the process of cutting a felled tree into smaller, more manageable lengths. It’s a physically demanding task that can be made easier with the right techniques. I used to just hack away at the log, resulting in a lot of wasted wood and a sore back. But over time, I’ve learned to buck efficiently and safely.

Understanding Wood Tension and Compression (Revisited)

Just like with felling, understanding tension and compression is crucial for bucking. If you cut a log that is under tension, the saw can get pinched, and the wood can split or splinter. To avoid this, you need to relieve the tension before making the cut.

The Importance of Proper Support

Supporting the log properly is essential for safe and efficient bucking. If the log is not supported, it can roll or shift during the cut, potentially pinching the saw or causing the wood to split. I use log jacks or small logs to support the wood and keep it from moving.

My Go-To Bucking Techniques

• Overbucking: Overbucking is used when the log is supported on both ends. Make a cut from the top down, about one-third of the way through the log. Then, make a second cut from the bottom up, meeting the first cut.
• Underbucking: Underbucking is used when the log is supported on one end. Make a cut from the bottom up, about one-third of the way through the log. Then, make a second cut from the top down, meeting the first cut.
• Boring Cut: A boring cut is used to relieve tension in the log. It involves plunging the tip of the saw into the wood to create a small hole. This can help prevent the saw from getting pinched when making the final cut.
• Cutting from the High Side: When bucking on a slope, always cut from the high side of the log. This will prevent the log from rolling down the hill and potentially injuring you.

The Log Length Equation

When cutting firewood, it’s important to consider the size of your wood stove or fireplace. I usually cut my firewood into 16-inch lengths, which fit comfortably in my stove. However, you may need to adjust the length depending on your specific needs. A good rule of thumb is to measure the firebox of your stove and subtract a few inches to allow for air circulation.

Minimizing Waste

To minimize waste, I try to cut the log into lengths that maximize the amount of usable firewood. I also avoid cutting through knots or rotten areas, which can weaken the wood and make it difficult to split.

Ergonomics and Reducing Strain

Bucking can be a physically demanding task, but there are ways to reduce strain and prevent injuries.

• Maintain Proper Posture: Keep your back straight and bend at the knees when lifting or moving logs.
• Take Breaks: Take frequent breaks to rest and stretch your muscles.
• Use a Log Jack: A log jack can help you lift and support the log, reducing the strain on your back.
• Rotate Tasks: Alternate between bucking, splitting, and stacking firewood to avoid repetitive strain injuries.

Data Point: Firewood Yield

Studies have shown that proper bucking techniques can increase firewood yield by as much as 10-15%. This means that you can get more firewood from the same amount of wood, which can save you time and money.

Personal Experience

I once spent an entire day bucking a large pile of logs without taking any breaks. By the end of the day, my back was aching, and my hands were numb. I learned the hard way the importance of taking breaks and using proper lifting techniques. Now, I always make sure to pace myself and use a log jack to support the wood.

Hack #4: Splitting Strategies: Manual vs. Hydraulic

Splitting firewood can be a real workout, but it doesn’t have to be a back-breaking chore. I’ve used both manual and hydraulic splitters, and each has its advantages and disadvantages. The right choice depends on the volume of wood you need to split, your budget, and your physical capabilities.

Manual Splitting: The Timeless Method

Manual splitting involves using a splitting axe or maul to split the wood by hand. It’s a simple, reliable method that requires no electricity or fuel. I still use a splitting axe for smaller rounds and knotty pieces that my hydraulic splitter struggles with.

• Choosing the Right Axe: A splitting axe has a heavier head and a wider blade than a felling axe. This makes it more effective at splitting wood. I prefer a splitting axe with a fiberglass handle, which is more durable and absorbs shock better than a wooden handle.
• The Stance: Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart, and grip the axe handle firmly with both hands.
• The Swing: Raise the axe over your head, keeping your back straight and your core engaged. Swing the axe down, aiming for the center of the log.
• The Follow-Through: Let the weight of the axe do the work. Don’t try to force the split.
• Using Wedges: For particularly tough pieces of wood, I use splitting wedges. Drive the wedge into the wood with a sledgehammer to create a split.

Hydraulic Splitting: Power and Efficiency

Hydraulic splitters use hydraulic pressure to split the wood. They are much faster and more efficient than manual splitting, especially for large volumes of wood. I invested in a hydraulic splitter a few years ago, and it has significantly reduced the amount of time and effort I spend splitting firewood.

• Types of Hydraulic Splitters: There are two main types of hydraulic splitters: electric and gas-powered. Electric splitters are quieter and cleaner, but they require access to a power outlet. Gas-powered splitters are more powerful and portable, but they are also louder and require fuel.
• Tonnage: Hydraulic splitters are rated by tonnage, which is the amount of force they can exert. A 20-ton splitter is sufficient for most firewood splitting needs, but larger logs may require a more powerful splitter.
• Cycle Time: Cycle time is the amount of time it takes for the splitter to complete a full cycle (extend and retract the ram). A shorter cycle time means you can split more wood in less time.
• Safety Features: Look for a hydraulic splitter with safety features such as a two-handed operation system, which prevents accidental activation.

Comparison Table: Manual vs. Hydraulic

Data Point: Splitting Speed

A study by a consumer magazine found that a hydraulic splitter can split firewood up to 10 times faster than manual splitting. This can save you a significant amount of time and effort, especially if you need to split a large volume of wood.

Personal Story

I remember the first time I used a hydraulic splitter. I was amazed at how easily it split even the toughest pieces of wood. I was able to split an entire cord of firewood in just a few hours, which would have taken me days to do manually. It was a game-changer for me, and I’ve never looked back.

Safety First

Whether you’re using a manual or hydraulic splitter, it’s important to follow these safety guidelines:

• Wear Proper PPE: Always wear eye protection, gloves, and sturdy boots.
• Clear the Area: Keep the area around the splitter clear of obstacles.
• Proper Stance: Maintain a stable stance and keep your feet shoulder-width apart.
• Never Reach Across the Splitter: Avoid reaching across the splitter while it’s in operation.
• Keep Hands Clear: Keep your hands clear of the splitting area.
• Follow Manufacturer’s Instructions: Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for operating and maintaining the splitter.

Hack #5: Seasoning and Storage: The Key to Efficient Burning

Seasoning firewood is the process of drying it out to reduce its moisture content. Properly seasoned firewood burns hotter, cleaner, and more efficiently than green (unseasoned) wood. I learned this the hard way when I first started burning firewood. I tried to burn green wood, and it was a smoky, inefficient mess. The wood was difficult to light, produced very little heat, and created a lot of creosote in my chimney.

Why Seasoning Matters

Green wood can contain up to 50% moisture by weight. This moisture must be evaporated before the wood can burn efficiently. Burning green wood wastes energy, produces smoke and creosote, and can even damage your wood stove or chimney.

Seasoned firewood, on the other hand, has a moisture content of 20% or less. It lights easily, burns hot and clean, and produces very little smoke or creosote.

The Seasoning Process

The seasoning process involves stacking the firewood in a way that allows air to circulate freely. This helps the moisture evaporate from the wood.

• Choose the Right Location: Select a sunny, well-ventilated location for your firewood pile. Avoid stacking the wood in a damp or shady area.
• Elevate the Wood: Elevate the wood off the ground to prevent it from absorbing moisture from the soil. You can use pallets, cinder blocks, or scrap lumber to create a platform.
• Stack the Wood Loosely: Stack the wood loosely to allow air to circulate freely. Avoid stacking the wood too tightly, which can trap moisture.
• Cover the Top: Cover the top of the wood pile with a tarp or sheet of metal to protect it from rain and snow. Leave the sides open to allow air to circulate.
• The Time Factor: The amount of time it takes to season firewood depends on the type of wood, the climate, and the stacking method. Hardwoods like oak and maple typically take 6-12 months to season, while softwoods like pine and fir can season in as little as 3-6 months.

Moisture Content Measurement

You can use a moisture meter to measure the moisture content of your firewood. Insert the probes of the meter into the wood, and it will display the moisture content as a percentage. Aim for a moisture content of 20% or less for optimal burning.

Storage Strategies: Keeping it Dry

Once the firewood is seasoned, it’s important to store it properly to keep it dry.

• Covered Storage: Store the firewood in a shed, garage, or under a tarp to protect it from rain and snow.
• Ventilation: Ensure that the storage area is well-ventilated to prevent moisture from building up.
• Rotation: Rotate the firewood pile regularly, using the oldest wood first. This will ensure that all the wood is properly seasoned and dry.

Data Point: Moisture Content and Heat Output

Studies have shown that properly seasoned firewood can produce up to 50% more heat than green wood. This means that you’ll need less seasoned wood to heat your home, which can save you money on fuel costs.

Personal Experience

I once made the mistake of stacking my firewood pile too tightly, without leaving enough space for air to circulate. The wood ended up rotting and becoming unusable. I learned the importance of proper stacking and ventilation the hard way. Now, I always make sure to stack the wood loosely and cover the top with a tarp.

Wood Species and Seasoning Times

The Impact of Improper Seasoning

Burning unseasoned wood can lead to a variety of problems, including:

• Reduced Heat Output: Unseasoned wood produces less heat, requiring more wood to achieve the same level of warmth.
• Increased Smoke: Unseasoned wood produces more smoke, which can be a nuisance to neighbors and can contribute to air pollution.
• Creosote Buildup: Unseasoned wood produces more creosote, which can accumulate in the chimney and increase the risk of chimney fires.
• Inefficient Burning: Unseasoned wood burns less efficiently, wasting energy and increasing fuel costs.
• Damage to Equipment: Burning unseasoned wood can damage wood stoves and chimneys, leading to costly repairs.

Conclusion: From Novice to Pro – My Final Thoughts

Mastering the Stihl MS250 for firewood cutting is a journey that combines skill, knowledge, and respect for the task at hand. It’s about understanding the saw, the wood, and the techniques that transform a challenging chore into a manageable and even enjoyable experience.

These five pro hacks – chain sharpening, felling techniques, bucking strategies, splitting methods, and seasoning practices – are the cornerstones of efficient and safe firewood cutting. They’ve transformed how I approach this essential task.

My journey from novice to pro wasn’t overnight. It involved a lot of trial and error, a few near-misses, and a healthy dose of perseverance. But through it all, I learned valuable lessons about the importance of preparation, precision, and safety.

So, take these tips, adapt them to your own situation, and start your own journey to mastering the Stihl MS250 for firewood cutting. Remember, it’s not just about cutting wood; it’s about connecting with nature, providing for your family, and enjoying the warmth and comfort of a crackling fire on a cold winter’s night.

Now, get out there, sharpen your chain, and start cutting! And always remember: safety first!

Learn more