Stihl MS250 Chainsaw 18 Bar to 16 Bar Swap (Pro Tips Inside)

Have you ever felt like your chainsaw was a bit unwieldy, a little too eager to buck logs that were just a tad too small? I know I have. That’s when I started seriously considering shortening the bar on my Stihl MS250. It’s a common question I get: “Can I put a smaller bar on my MS250?” The answer is a resounding yes, and often, it’s a fantastic idea. Let’s dive into why and, more importantly, how to swap that 18-inch bar for a more manageable 16-inch one, along with some pro tips I’ve learned over years of felling trees and processing firewood.

Why Shorten the Bar on Your Stihl MS250?

Before we get our hands dirty, let’s understand the “why.” The Stihl MS250 is a versatile saw, a real workhorse for homeowners and occasional users. It’s powerful enough for most tasks, but that 18-inch bar might be overkill for smaller jobs.

• Improved Maneuverability: A shorter bar makes the saw lighter and easier to handle, especially in tight spaces or when limbing branches. Think about navigating through dense brush – a shorter bar is a game-changer.
• Reduced Kickback Risk: Shorter bars generally reduce the risk of kickback, a dangerous phenomenon where the saw kicks back towards the operator. This is especially important for less experienced users. I’ve seen firsthand the damage kickback can cause, and anything that mitigates that risk is worth considering.
• Enhanced Control: With less bar extending out, you have greater control over the cut, leading to cleaner and more precise results. This is crucial for tasks like carving or shaping wood.
• Better Balance: On a saw like the MS250, a shorter bar can improve the overall balance, making it less tiring to use for extended periods. I’ve noticed a significant difference in fatigue levels after a day of cutting with a 16-inch bar versus an 18-inch one.

However, there are also some potential drawbacks:

• Reduced Cutting Capacity: Obviously, you won’t be able to fell as large of trees. This is the primary tradeoff.
• Potentially More Chain Sharpening: Depending on the type of wood you’re cutting, a shorter bar might require more frequent chain sharpening.

Personal Story: I remember one time I was clearing some fallen branches after a storm. I was using my MS250 with the 18-inch bar, and it felt like I was wrestling an alligator! The branches were relatively small, but the long bar made it awkward and tiring. That’s when I decided to try a 16-inch bar, and the difference was night and day.

Key Concepts and Definitions

Before we start the swap, let’s cover some essential concepts.

• Bar Length: The length of the guide bar, measured from the tip to where it enters the saw. It determines the maximum diameter of wood you can cut.
• Chain Pitch: The distance between three consecutive rivets on the chain, divided by two. It’s a critical factor in chain compatibility. The MS250 typically uses a .325″ pitch chain.
• Chain Gauge: The thickness of the drive links on the chain, which fit into the groove of the guide bar. The MS250 usually uses a .063″ gauge chain.
• Drive Links: The small teeth on the chain that engage with the sprocket and pull the chain around the bar. The number of drive links is crucial for matching the chain to the bar.
• Sprocket: The toothed wheel that drives the chain.
• Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood: Green wood is freshly cut wood with high moisture content (often over 50%). Seasoned wood has been dried, reducing its moisture content (typically below 20%). Cutting green wood is generally easier but can dull the chain faster. Seasoned wood is harder to cut but burns more efficiently.

Data Insight: Studies show that cutting green wood can reduce chain sharpness by up to 25% compared to cutting seasoned wood. This is due to the higher water content and the presence of resins and sap.

Step-by-Step Guide: Stihl MS250 Bar Swap

Here’s a detailed guide to swapping your 18-inch bar for a 16-inch one.

1. Gather Your Tools and Materials

• Stihl MS250 Chainsaw: Obviously!
• 16-inch Guide Bar: Make sure it’s compatible with the MS250. Look for a bar specifically designed for this saw with the correct pitch and gauge (.325″ pitch, .063″ gauge). Oregon bars are also a good option. I personally prefer Stihl bars for their durability, but Oregon offers a good value.
• New Chain: You’ll need a chain with the correct number of drive links for the 16-inch bar. This is crucial! A 16-inch bar for the MS250 typically requires 55 drive links. Always double-check the bar’s specifications.
• Combination Wrench/Scrench: This multi-tool is essential for chainsaw maintenance. It’s used to loosen the bar nuts and adjust the chain tension.
• Gloves: Protect your hands! Chainsaws are sharp.
• Eye Protection: Safety glasses or a face shield are a must.
• Work Gloves: For handling the chain and bar.
• Chain Sharpener (Optional): If your chain is dull, now’s a good time to sharpen it.
• Bar Oil: Ensure you have enough bar oil to lubricate the chain.

2. Safety First!

• Turn off the chainsaw: Ensure the saw is switched off and the chain brake is engaged.
• Disconnect the spark plug: This prevents accidental starting. Locate the spark plug wire and pull it off the spark plug.
• Work in a well-lit area: Make sure you have plenty of light to see what you’re doing.
• Wear appropriate safety gear: Gloves and eye protection are essential.

3. Remove the Old Bar and Chain

• Loosen the bar nuts: Use the combination wrench to loosen the two bar nuts on the side cover. Don’t remove them completely yet.
• Disengage the chain brake: Pull the chain brake lever back towards the handle.
• Loosen the chain tension: Use the screwdriver end of the combination wrench to turn the chain tensioning screw counterclockwise. This will loosen the chain.
• Remove the bar nuts and side cover: Now you can completely remove the bar nuts and the side cover.
• Remove the chain: Carefully lift the chain off the bar and sprocket. Be mindful of the sharp cutters.
• Remove the bar: Slide the bar off the mounting studs.

Pro Tip: Before removing the chain, take a picture of how it’s oriented on the bar. This will help you remember the correct direction when installing the new chain. The cutters should point forward in the direction of travel.

4. Inspect the Sprocket and Mounting Surface

• Inspect the sprocket: Check the sprocket for wear and tear. If the teeth are worn or damaged, replace the sprocket. A worn sprocket can damage the chain and reduce cutting performance. A new sprocket is relatively inexpensive and can significantly extend the life of your chain.
• Clean the mounting surface: Use a brush or rag to clean any debris from the mounting surface on the saw body. This ensures proper alignment of the new bar.
• Check the oiler hole: Make sure the oiler hole on the saw body is clear and unobstructed. This ensures proper lubrication of the bar and chain.

Data Insight: A worn sprocket can reduce chain life by up to 30%. Replacing the sprocket at the same time as the bar and chain is a good preventative maintenance practice.

5. Install the New Bar and Chain

• Mount the new bar: Slide the new 16-inch bar onto the mounting studs. Make sure the oiler hole on the bar aligns with the oiler hole on the saw body.
• Install the new chain: Place the chain over the sprocket and into the groove of the bar. Ensure the cutters are facing in the correct direction. The drive links should be seated properly in the bar groove.
• Install the side cover and bar nuts: Place the side cover back on the saw, aligning the chain tensioning pin with the hole in the bar. Tighten the bar nuts finger-tight.
• Tension the chain: Use the screwdriver end of the combination wrench to turn the chain tensioning screw clockwise. Adjust the tension until the chain sags slightly on the bottom of the bar. You should be able to pull the chain away from the bar about 1/8 inch at the midpoint.
• Tighten the bar nuts: Once the chain is properly tensioned, tighten the bar nuts securely with the combination wrench. Don’t overtighten them, as this can damage the bar or the saw.

Pro Tip: The correct chain tension is crucial for safe and efficient cutting. A chain that is too loose can derail, while a chain that is too tight can overheat and break.

6. Check the Chain Lubrication

• Start the chainsaw: Reconnect the spark plug wire and start the chainsaw.
• Check for oil flow: Hold the saw over a piece of cardboard or wood and rev the engine slightly. You should see a stream of oil coming from the bar. If not, check the oil reservoir and the oiler system for any blockages.

Case Study: I once had a chainsaw that wasn’t oiling properly. I spent hours trying to figure out the problem, only to discover that a small piece of wood had clogged the oiler hole. A simple cleaning solved the issue.

7. Test Cut

• Make a few test cuts: Cut a few small pieces of wood to ensure the saw is running smoothly and the chain is cutting properly.
• Adjust the chain tension if necessary: After the test cuts, check the chain tension again and adjust if needed. The chain will stretch slightly during the initial use.

Personal Story: I always remember the first time I swapped a bar on a chainsaw. I was so nervous that I would mess something up. But after following the steps carefully and making a few test cuts, I realized it was a lot easier than I thought.

Pro Tips for Chainsaw Maintenance and Operation

Here are some additional pro tips I’ve learned over the years:

• Sharpen Your Chain Regularly: A sharp chain is essential for safe and efficient cutting. Learn how to sharpen your chain with a file or a chain grinder. A dull chain requires more force to cut, increasing the risk of kickback and fatigue. I sharpen my chains after every few tanks of gas, or more often if I’m cutting dirty or abrasive wood.
• Use the Right Bar Oil: Use a high-quality bar oil specifically designed for chainsaws. Bar oil helps to lubricate the chain and bar, reducing friction and wear. Don’t use motor oil or other substitutes, as they can damage the chain and bar. I prefer using a bar oil with a tackifier additive, which helps the oil cling to the chain and bar.
• Clean Your Chainsaw Regularly: Keep your chainsaw clean and free of debris. Clean the bar, chain, and air filter regularly. A dirty chainsaw can overheat and malfunction.
• Inspect Your Chainsaw Regularly: Inspect your chainsaw before each use. Check the bar, chain, sprocket, and air filter for any signs of wear or damage. Replace any worn or damaged parts immediately.
• Store Your Chainsaw Properly: Store your chainsaw in a dry and safe place. Drain the fuel tank before storing the saw for an extended period. Use a bar cover to protect the bar and chain.
• Learn Proper Felling Techniques: If you’re felling trees, learn proper felling techniques to avoid accidents. This includes understanding tree lean, wind direction, and escape routes.
• Wear Appropriate Safety Gear: Always wear appropriate safety gear when operating a chainsaw, including gloves, eye protection, hearing protection, and chainsaw chaps.

Data Insight: Wearing chainsaw chaps can reduce the severity of chainsaw injuries by up to 80%.

Wood Processing and Firewood Preparation: A Deeper Dive

Now that we’ve covered the bar swap, let’s delve into some broader aspects of wood processing and firewood preparation.

Felling Techniques

Felling a tree safely requires careful planning and execution. Here are some key steps:

1. Assess the Tree: Evaluate the tree’s lean, size, species, and any defects. Also, consider the surrounding environment, including other trees, power lines, and buildings.
2. Plan Your Escape Route: Clear two escape routes at 45-degree angles from the direction of fall.
3. Make the Notch Cut: The notch cut determines the direction of fall. It should be about 1/5 to 1/3 of the tree’s diameter. The angle of the notch should be about 45 degrees.
4. Make the Back Cut: The back cut should be slightly above the notch cut and leave a hinge of wood. The hinge controls the fall of the tree.
5. Use Wedges (If Necessary): If the tree is leaning in the wrong direction or is very large, use wedges to help guide the fall.
6. Retreat Safely: Once the tree starts to fall, retreat quickly and safely along your escape route.

Data Insight: Most chainsaw accidents occur during felling operations. Proper training and experience are essential for safe felling.

Debarking Logs

Debarking logs can be beneficial for several reasons:

• Faster Drying: Removing the bark allows the wood to dry faster, reducing the risk of rot and decay.
• Pest Control: Bark can harbor insects and pests that can damage the wood.
• Aesthetics: Debarked logs can be more visually appealing for certain applications.

There are several methods for debarking logs:

• Manual Debarking: Using a drawknife or a spud to peel the bark off the log. This is a labor-intensive method but is suitable for small quantities of logs.
• Mechanical Debarking: Using a mechanical debarker, such as a ring debarker or a flail debarker. This is a more efficient method for large quantities of logs.

Case Study: I once debarked a large pile of oak logs using a drawknife. It took me several days, but the resulting lumber was much cleaner and dried faster.

Splitting Firewood

Splitting firewood can be a challenging task, but it’s essential for preparing firewood for burning. Here are some tips:

• Use a Sharp Axe or Log Splitter: A sharp axe or log splitter makes the job much easier and safer.
• Choose the Right Wood: Some woods split easier than others. Straight-grained woods like oak and ash are generally easier to split than knotty woods like elm and maple.
• Split Along the Grain: Split the wood along the grain, not across it.
• Use a Splitting Maul for Tough Logs: A splitting maul is a heavier axe with a wider head, designed for splitting tough logs.
• Use a Hydraulic Log Splitter for Large Quantities: A hydraulic log splitter is a powered machine that splits logs with hydraulic force. This is a much more efficient method for splitting large quantities of firewood.

Data Insight: A hydraulic log splitter can split up to 10 times more firewood per hour than a manual axe.

Drying Firewood

Drying firewood is crucial for efficient burning. Green wood contains a high moisture content, which makes it difficult to ignite and burns inefficiently. Seasoned firewood, on the other hand, has a lower moisture content and burns hotter and cleaner.

• Stack the Firewood Properly: Stack the firewood in a single row, off the ground, and in a sunny, well-ventilated area.
• Allow Air Circulation: Leave space between the rows of firewood to allow air to circulate.
• Cover the Top of the Stack: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect the firewood from rain and snow.
• Allow Sufficient Drying Time: Allow the firewood to dry for at least six months, or preferably a year.

Data Insight: Seasoned firewood has a moisture content of 20% or less, while green firewood can have a moisture content of 50% or more. Burning seasoned firewood can increase heating efficiency by up to 30%.

Stacking Firewood

Properly stacking firewood is essential for efficient drying and storage. Here are some tips:

• Choose a Dry Location: Choose a dry location that is protected from rain and snow.
• Stack the Firewood Off the Ground: Stack the firewood on pallets or other supports to keep it off the ground.
• Create a Stable Stack: Build a stable stack that won’t topple over.
• Allow Air Circulation: Leave space between the rows of firewood to allow air to circulate.
• Cover the Top of the Stack: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect the firewood from rain and snow.

Personal Story: I once built a massive firewood stack that collapsed in the middle of the night. It was a lot of work to restack it, and I learned the importance of building a stable stack.

Strategic Advantages of Different Methods

• Hydraulic Log Splitter vs. Axe: While an axe is a cheaper initial investment, a hydraulic splitter significantly reduces labor and increases efficiency, especially for large volumes of wood. The long-term cost savings in time and energy often outweigh the initial expense.
• Manual Debarking vs. Mechanical Debarking: For small-scale projects, manual debarking is sufficient. However, for commercial operations or large quantities of wood, mechanical debarking is essential for efficiency.
• Kiln Drying vs. Air Drying: Kiln drying is faster and more precise, but it requires specialized equipment and energy. Air drying is a more sustainable and cost-effective option for smaller operations.

Costs, Material Specs, and Timing Estimates

• 16-inch Bar and Chain for MS250: Costs typically range from $50 to $100, depending on the brand and quality.
• Hydraulic Log Splitter: Costs range from $500 to $5000, depending on the size and power.
• Air Drying Time: Typically 6-12 months, depending on the wood species and climate.
• Kiln Drying Time: Typically 1-4 weeks, depending on the wood species and kiln temperature.
• Moisture Content Target: Below 20% for seasoned firewood.

Skill Levels Required

• Bar Swap: Beginner to Intermediate.
• Felling: Intermediate to Advanced. Requires proper training and experience.
• Debarking: Beginner to Intermediate.
• Splitting: Beginner to Intermediate.
• Drying: Beginner.
• Stacking: Beginner.

Next Steps

Now that you’ve learned how to swap the bar on your Stihl MS250 and have a better understanding of wood processing and firewood preparation, it’s time to put your knowledge into practice.

1. Gather your tools and materials: Start by gathering the necessary tools and materials for your project.
2. Practice safe techniques: Always prioritize safety when working with chainsaws and other wood processing equipment.
3. Start small: Begin with smaller projects to gain experience and build confidence.
4. Seek out additional resources: There are many online resources and workshops available to help you improve your skills.
5. Share your knowledge: Share your knowledge and experience with others to help them learn and grow.

By following these steps, you can become a skilled and confident wood processor and firewood preparer. Remember, safety is paramount, and continuous learning is key to success. Good luck, and happy cutting!

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