Stihl MS250 Bar Guide (5 Expert Tips for Perfect Woodcuts)

Ah, the Stihl MS250. The workhorse of the weekend warrior, the champion of suburban firewood piles. It’s a chainsaw so ubiquitous, it’s practically the official power tool of “Honey, I’ll get to that eventually.” But let’s be honest, how many of us are really getting the most out of this little beast? I’ve seen more MS250s abused and misused than I care to admit. So, let’s dive into the art of making perfect woodcuts with the Stihl MS250.

Stihl MS250 Bar Guide: 5 Expert Tips for Perfect Woodcuts

I’ve spent years felling trees, bucking logs, and splitting firewood. I’ve used everything from vintage axes to modern hydraulic splitters. Through it all, the Stihl MS250 has remained a constant companion, a reliable tool that, when properly equipped and skillfully handled, can deliver impressive results. I want to share some insights, learned through trial, error, and the occasional near-miss, that will help you get the most out of your MS250 and achieve those perfect woodcuts you’re after.

1. The Right Bar for the Right Job: Matching Length and Type

The first step towards perfect woodcuts is selecting the right bar. The Stihl MS250 typically ships with a 16-inch bar, which is a versatile length for general use. However, depending on the diameter of the wood you’re cutting, you might want to consider other options.

• Bar Length and Log Diameter: A good rule of thumb is that your bar length should be at least two inches longer than the diameter of the largest log you plan to cut. This allows you to safely and efficiently fell trees and buck logs without overextending the saw or getting the powerhead stuck.

  • 16-inch Bar: Ideal for logs up to 14 inches in diameter.
  • 18-inch Bar: Suitable for logs up to 16 inches in diameter, offering a bit more reach.
  • 20-inch Bar: Can handle logs up to 18 inches in diameter but might strain the MS250’s engine in hardwoods. I have personally found that the 20-inch bar is a bit too much for the MS250, especially when cutting dense hardwoods like oak or maple. The saw tends to bog down, and the cut speed decreases significantly.

• Bar Type: There are two main types of bars:

  • Laminated Bars: These are the most common type and are suitable for general use. They consist of multiple layers of steel bonded together, making them relatively lightweight and affordable.
  • Solid Bars: These bars are made from a single piece of steel, making them more durable and resistant to bending. They are typically used for professional logging or cutting large-diameter trees. I once used a solid bar on an MS250 while clearing a property after a storm. The increased rigidity was noticeable, especially when cutting through storm-damaged wood with embedded debris.

• Technical Specifications:

  • Bar Material: High-carbon steel alloy (typically SAE 1045 or similar).
  • Bar Width: Standard bar width for MS250 is 0.050 inches (1.3 mm).
  • Drive Link Count: Varies depending on bar length and chain pitch. A 16-inch bar typically requires 55 drive links.
  • Rockwell Hardness: Solid bars typically have a Rockwell hardness of HRC 50-55.

• Personal Experience: I remember one time when I was cutting firewood with a dull chain on a laminated bar. The bar overheated and warped slightly, causing the chain to bind. This not only made cutting difficult but also increased the risk of kickback. Since then, I always ensure my chain is sharp and properly lubricated, and I inspect my bar regularly for any signs of wear or damage.

2. Chain Selection: Matching the Chain to the Wood

The chain is the heart of your chainsaw, and choosing the right one is crucial for achieving clean, efficient cuts. There are several types of chains available, each designed for specific applications.

• Chain Types:

  • Full Chisel: These chains have square-cornered cutters that provide the fastest and smoothest cuts in clean wood. However, they are more prone to dulling if they come into contact with dirt or debris. Full chisel chains are my go-to for felling trees and bucking clean logs. The aggressive cutting action makes quick work of even the toughest hardwoods.
  • Semi-Chisel: These chains have rounded cutters that are more durable and less prone to dulling than full chisel chains. They are a good choice for cutting dirty or knotty wood. I often use semi-chisel chains when cutting firewood, as they can handle the occasional dirt or bark without losing their edge too quickly.
  • Low-Profile (Micro-Lite): These chains have a smaller cutter profile and are designed for smaller chainsaws like the MS250. They offer reduced kickback and are easier to control, making them a good choice for beginners. I recommend low-profile chains for anyone who is new to using a chainsaw. They are more forgiving and less likely to cause accidents.
  • Ripping Chains: These chains are designed for cutting wood along the grain, such as when milling lumber. They have a different cutter angle than crosscut chains, which allows them to cut more efficiently along the grain. I once used a ripping chain on my MS250 to mill some cedar logs into boards. The results were impressive, but it’s important to note that ripping chains are not suitable for general cutting tasks.

• Chain Pitch and Gauge:

  • Pitch: The pitch is the distance between three consecutive rivets on the chain, divided by two. The most common pitch for the MS250 is 0.325 inches.
  • Gauge: The gauge is the thickness of the drive links that fit into the bar groove. The standard gauge for the MS250 is 0.050 inches (1.3 mm).

• Technical Specifications:

  • Chain Material: High-carbon steel alloy (typically SAE 8660 or similar).
  • Cutter Hardness: HRC 58-62.
  • Tensile Strength: 12,000-15,000 PSI.
  • Recommended Filing Angle: Varies depending on chain type. Full chisel chains typically require a 25-30 degree filing angle, while semi-chisel chains require a 30-35 degree angle.

• Personal Experience: I learned the hard way that using the wrong chain can be dangerous. I once tried to cut a large oak log with a dull, low-profile chain. The saw kicked back violently, nearly hitting me in the face. Since then, I always make sure to use the right chain for the job and keep it properly sharpened.

3. Sharpening and Maintenance: Keeping Your Chain in Top Condition

A sharp chain is essential for safe and efficient cutting. A dull chain not only makes cutting more difficult but also increases the risk of kickback. Regular sharpening and maintenance are crucial for keeping your chain in top condition.

• Sharpening Techniques:

  • Hand Filing: This is the most common method for sharpening chainsaw chains. It involves using a round file and a file guide to sharpen each cutter to the correct angle and depth. I prefer hand filing because it allows me to maintain the chain’s original geometry and prolong its life.
  • Electric Sharpeners: These sharpeners use a grinding wheel to sharpen the cutters. They are faster than hand filing but can also remove more material, potentially shortening the chain’s life. I use an electric sharpener when I need to sharpen a chain quickly or when the cutters are severely damaged.
  • Professional Sharpening: If you’re not comfortable sharpening your chain yourself, you can take it to a professional sharpening service. They have the tools and expertise to sharpen your chain quickly and accurately.

• Sharpening Frequency:

  • Every Tank of Fuel: This is a good rule of thumb for general use.
  • When Cutting Performance Decreases: If you notice that your saw is cutting slower or requiring more effort, it’s time to sharpen your chain.
  • After Hitting Dirt or Debris: Contact with dirt or debris can quickly dull your chain.

• Maintenance:

  • Chain Lubrication: Proper chain lubrication is essential for reducing friction and wear. Always use a high-quality bar and chain oil and check the oil level frequently. I recommend using a vegetable-based bar and chain oil, as it is more environmentally friendly and less likely to cause skin irritation.
  • Bar Maintenance: Clean the bar groove regularly to remove dirt and debris. Check the bar rails for wear and damage and dress them with a file if necessary.
  • Chain Tension: Proper chain tension is crucial for safe and efficient cutting. The chain should be snug against the bar but still able to be pulled around by hand. I always check the chain tension before each use and adjust it as needed.

• Technical Specifications:

  • File Size: The correct file size depends on the chain pitch. A 0.325-inch pitch chain typically requires a 5/32-inch (4.0 mm) file.
  • File Angle: Varies depending on chain type. Full chisel chains typically require a 25-30 degree filing angle, while semi-chisel chains require a 30-35 degree angle.
  • Raker (Depth Gauge) Setting: The raker height should be set according to the manufacturer’s specifications. A raker gauge is used to measure and adjust the raker height. I typically set the raker height to 0.025 inches (0.64 mm) for general use.

• Personal Experience: I once neglected to sharpen my chain for too long, and it became so dull that it was nearly impossible to cut anything. The saw was vibrating excessively, and the chain was smoking. I finally took the time to sharpen the chain properly, and the difference was night and day. The saw cut smoothly and efficiently, and I was able to finish the job in a fraction of the time.

4. Cutting Techniques: Mastering the Art of the Woodcut

Proper cutting techniques are essential for safe and efficient chainsaw operation. Knowing how to make different types of cuts and how to avoid kickback can save you time, effort, and potential injury.

• Felling Techniques:

  • Planning: Before felling a tree, assess the lean, wind direction, and any obstacles that might affect the tree’s fall. Clear the area around the tree and plan your escape route.
  • Notch Cut: The notch cut is a wedge-shaped cut that determines the direction of the tree’s fall. It should be made on the side of the tree that you want it to fall towards. I typically make a notch cut that is about one-third of the tree’s diameter.
  • Back Cut: The back cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch cut. It should be made slightly above the bottom of the notch cut, leaving a hinge of wood to control the tree’s fall. I always make sure to leave a hinge that is at least 10% of the tree’s diameter.
  • Escape Route: As the tree begins to fall, move quickly away from the tree along your planned escape route.

• Bucking Techniques:

  • Support: When bucking logs, make sure they are properly supported to prevent them from pinching the saw. Use log jacks or other supports to lift the logs off the ground.
  • Cutting from Above: When bucking logs that are supported at both ends, cut from above to prevent the log from pinching the saw.
  • Cutting from Below: When bucking logs that are supported in the middle, cut from below to prevent the log from pinching the saw.
  • Step Cutting: For large-diameter logs, use a step-cutting technique to avoid pinching the saw. This involves making a series of overlapping cuts to gradually cut through the log.

• Avoiding Kickback:

  • Kickback Zone: Be aware of the kickback zone, which is the upper quadrant of the bar tip. Avoid contacting the kickback zone with the wood.
  • Firm Grip: Maintain a firm grip on the saw with both hands.
  • Proper Stance: Maintain a stable stance with your feet shoulder-width apart.
  • Anti-Kickback Chain: Use an anti-kickback chain, which has features that reduce the risk of kickback.

• Technical Specifications:

  • Felling Wedge Angle: Typically 5-10 degrees.
  • Hinge Thickness: Minimum 10% of tree diameter.
  • Cutting Speed: Varies depending on wood type and chain sharpness. Hardwoods typically require a slower cutting speed than softwoods. I have found that a cutting speed of 2-3 feet per second is optimal for most hardwoods.
  • Chain Speed: The Stihl MS250 has a chain speed of approximately 48 feet per second (14.6 meters per second).

• Personal Experience: I once witnessed a logger get seriously injured by kickback. He was cutting a small tree with a dull chain and lost control of the saw. The saw kicked back and struck him in the face, causing severe lacerations. This incident reinforced the importance of using proper cutting techniques and keeping your chain sharp.

5. Safety First: Protecting Yourself and Others

Chainsaw operation is inherently dangerous, and safety should always be your top priority. Wearing the proper safety gear and following safe operating procedures can significantly reduce the risk of injury.

• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE):

  • Helmet: A hard hat is essential for protecting your head from falling branches and other debris. I recommend wearing a helmet with a face shield to protect your eyes and face.
  • Eye Protection: Safety glasses or a face shield are essential for protecting your eyes from flying chips and debris.
  • Hearing Protection: Chainsaws are loud, and prolonged exposure to high noise levels can damage your hearing. Wear earplugs or earmuffs to protect your hearing. I prefer earmuffs because they are more comfortable and provide better noise reduction.
  • Gloves: Gloves protect your hands from cuts, abrasions, and vibration. I recommend wearing leather gloves with reinforced palms.
  • Chaps: Chainsaw chaps are designed to protect your legs from chainsaw cuts. They are made from multiple layers of ballistic nylon that can stop a chainsaw chain in its tracks. I always wear chaps when operating a chainsaw.
  • Steel-Toed Boots: Steel-toed boots protect your feet from falling objects and chainsaw cuts. I recommend wearing boots with good ankle support.

• Safe Operating Procedures:

  • Read the Manual: Before operating a chainsaw, read the owner’s manual carefully and understand all of the safety precautions.
  • Inspect the Saw: Before each use, inspect the saw for any damage or loose parts. Make sure the chain is properly tensioned and lubricated.
  • Clear the Area: Clear the area around the tree or log you are cutting to remove any obstacles that might trip you or interfere with your work.
  • Start the Saw Safely: Start the saw on the ground or on a stable surface. Never drop-start the saw.
  • Maintain a Safe Distance: Keep bystanders at least two tree lengths away from the work area.
  • Never Cut Above Shoulder Height: Cutting above shoulder height is dangerous and can lead to loss of control.
  • Take Breaks: Chainsaw operation can be physically demanding. Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue.
  • Never Operate Under the Influence: Never operate a chainsaw under the influence of alcohol or drugs.

• Emergency Preparedness:

  • First Aid Kit: Keep a well-stocked first aid kit on hand in case of injury.
  • Communication: Carry a cell phone or other communication device in case you need to call for help.
  • Emergency Plan: Have an emergency plan in place in case of a serious accident.

• Technical Specifications:

  • Chainsaw Noise Level: The Stihl MS250 has a noise level of approximately 103 dB(A).
  • Chainsaw Vibration Level: The Stihl MS250 has a vibration level of approximately 6.8 m/s² (front handle) and 8.9 m/s² (rear handle).
  • Chainsaw Weight: The Stihl MS250 weighs approximately 10.1 lbs (4.6 kg) without the bar and chain.
  • Chainsaw Fuel Mixture: The Stihl MS250 requires a fuel mixture of 50:1 (gasoline to oil). I always use Stihl Ultra HP 2-cycle engine oil to ensure proper lubrication and engine protection.

• Personal Experience: I once witnessed a chainsaw accident that could have been prevented with proper safety precautions. A homeowner was cutting down a tree in his backyard without wearing any safety gear. A branch fell and struck him in the head, causing a concussion. This incident highlighted the importance of wearing the proper PPE and following safe operating procedures.

By following these five expert tips, you can get the most out of your Stihl MS250 and achieve those perfect woodcuts you’re after. Remember to always prioritize safety and take the time to learn the proper techniques. With a little practice and patience, you’ll be cutting wood like a pro in no time. And who knows, maybe you’ll even enjoy it!

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