Stihl MS170 Bar and Chain Replacement Guide (5 Expert Picks)
Have you ever felt that knot of frustration tightening in your stomach when your chainsaw, your trusty companion in the woods, starts acting up? I certainly have. There’s nothing quite like the feeling of being deep in a project, the scent of fresh-cut wood filling the air, only to be stopped dead in your tracks by a dull or damaged chain. It’s more than just an inconvenience; it’s a safety hazard and a time-waster.
I remember one particularly cold November morning, out in the back forty, trying to get ahead on my winter firewood supply. My old saw, a workhorse for years, suddenly started bucking and kicking back. After a quick inspection, I realized the chain was shot. Hours from any help, I had to rely on my wits and a spare chain I thankfully had stashed in my truck. That day taught me a valuable lesson: being prepared and knowing your equipment inside and out is crucial, especially when you’re relying on it.
Stihl MS170 Bar and Chain Replacement: An Expert’s Guide
This guide aims to provide you with not just the ‘how’ but also the ‘why’ behind each step in replacing the bar and chain on your Stihl MS170 chainsaw. I will share my expert picks for bar and chain combinations, along with insights into maintaining your equipment for optimal performance and longevity.
Understanding the Importance of a Sharp Chain
A sharp chain is paramount for both efficiency and safety. A dull chain forces you to exert more pressure, increasing the risk of kickback, a sudden and forceful upward movement of the chainsaw that can cause serious injury. In my experience, a sharp chain dramatically reduces cutting time and fuel consumption.
Data Point: Studies have shown that a dull chain can increase fuel consumption by up to 20% and cutting time by as much as 50%.
Choosing the Right Bar and Chain: Expert Picks
Selecting the correct bar and chain for your Stihl MS170 is crucial for optimal performance. The MS170 typically comes with a 16-inch bar, but other options are available depending on your specific needs.
1. Stihl 16″ Rollomatic E Mini .043″ Gauge Bar with Stihl 61 PMM3 Chain (3/8″ Picco):
- Pros: Lightweight, ideal for smaller tasks, reduces kickback potential.
- Cons: May not be suitable for larger diameter logs.
- Technical Specifications:
- Bar Length: 16 inches
- Chain Pitch: 3/8″ Picco (low profile)
- Chain Gauge: .043″
- Drive Links: 55
- Recommended File Size: 5/32″ (4.0 mm)
- Why I Recommend It: This combination is perfect for homeowners and light-duty users. The .043″ gauge chain offers a smoother cut and reduces the risk of kickback, making it ideal for beginners.
- Personal Story: I used this setup extensively when clearing brush around my property. Its lightweight design made it easy to maneuver, even in tight spaces.
2. Oregon 16″ AdvanceCut Guide Bar with Oregon S56 Chain (3/8″ Low Profile):
- Pros: Excellent value, durable, good all-around performance.
- Cons: May not be as smooth as Stihl chains.
- Technical Specifications:
- Bar Length: 16 inches
- Chain Pitch: 3/8″ Low Profile
- Chain Gauge: .050″
- Drive Links: 56
- Recommended File Size: 5/32″ (4.0 mm)
- Why I Recommend It: Oregon is a trusted brand, and this combination offers a great balance of performance and affordability. It’s suitable for a wide range of tasks, from cutting firewood to felling small trees.
- Personal Story: I’ve used Oregon chains extensively on various saws. They hold their edge well and are readily available at most hardware stores.
3. Husqvarna 16″ Bar with Husqvarna H37 Chain (3/8″ Low Profile):
- Pros: High-quality construction, aggressive cutting, long-lasting.
- Cons: Can be more expensive than other options.
- Technical Specifications:
- Bar Length: 16 inches
- Chain Pitch: 3/8″ Low Profile
- Chain Gauge: .050″
- Drive Links: 56
- Recommended File Size: 5/32″ (4.0 mm)
- Why I Recommend It: While Husqvarna is a competitor to Stihl, their chains are excellent. The H37 chain is known for its aggressive cutting and durability.
- Personal Story: I once used a Husqvarna chain on a project where I had to cut through a lot of dense hardwood. It performed admirably, holding its edge much longer than other chains I had used previously.
4. Archer Pro 16″ Bar and Chain Combo (3/8″ Low Profile):
- Pros: Budget-friendly, decent performance for occasional use.
- Cons: May not be as durable as premium brands.
- Technical Specifications:
- Bar Length: 16 inches
- Chain Pitch: 3/8″ Low Profile
- Chain Gauge: .050″
- Drive Links: 56
- Recommended File Size: 5/32″ (4.0 mm)
- Why I Recommend It: If you’re on a tight budget, Archer Pro offers a decent alternative. It’s suitable for occasional use and light-duty tasks.
- Personal Story: I’ve used Archer chains for smaller projects around my yard. They’re a good option if you only need a chain for occasional use.
5. Stihl Light 04 .325″ 1.3mm/0.050″ Guide Bar with Stihl 23 RS Pro Chain:
- Pros: More robust cutting, wider kerf for faster wood removal, slightly longer bar life due to less friction.
- Cons: Requires more power from the saw, not ideal for very small limbing work.
- Technical Specifications:
- Bar Length: 16 inches
- Chain Pitch: .325″
- Chain Gauge: .050″ (1.3mm)
- Drive Links: 62
- Recommended File Size: 3/16″ (4.8 mm)
- Why I Recommend It: This is a slight upgrade to the standard setup. The .325″ pitch chain cuts a wider kerf, meaning it removes more wood with each pass. This can lead to faster cutting speeds, especially in larger diameter logs. The slightly larger file size is also easier to handle when sharpening.
- Personal Story: I switched to a .325″ chain for a project involving felling and bucking several medium-sized oak trees. The difference in cutting speed was noticeable, and I was able to complete the job more quickly.
Important Note: Always refer to your Stihl MS170 owner’s manual for the manufacturer’s recommended bar and chain specifications. Using the wrong bar and chain can damage your chainsaw and void the warranty.
Tools and Materials Required
Before you begin, gather the necessary tools and materials:
- New chainsaw bar and chain (as per your selection).
- Chainsaw wrench (usually comes with the saw).
- Screwdriver (flathead).
- Gloves (for safety and grip).
- File and filing guide (for sharpening the chain).
- Bar oil.
- Clean rag.
- Work gloves.
Step-by-Step Bar and Chain Replacement Guide
1. Safety First:
- Engage the chain brake: This is crucial to prevent accidental movement of the chain.
- Turn off the chainsaw: Ensure the engine is completely off and the spark plug is disconnected. This prevents accidental starting.
- Wear gloves: Protect your hands from sharp edges and potential contaminants.
2. Loosening the Bar Nuts:
- Locate the bar nuts on the side of the chainsaw, near the base of the bar.
- Use the chainsaw wrench to loosen the bar nuts. Do not remove them completely at this stage.
3. Removing the Chain Cover:
- Once the bar nuts are loose, carefully remove the chain cover. This may require a slight wiggle.
- Set the chain cover aside.
4. Removing the Old Bar and Chain:
- Carefully remove the old chain from the bar groove.
- Slide the bar off the mounting studs.
- Inspect the bar for wear and damage. Check the rails for even wear and ensure the oil holes are clear.
- Dispose of the old chain responsibly.
5. Preparing the New Bar:
- Inspect the new bar for any defects.
- Ensure the oil holes are clear.
- Apply a small amount of bar oil to the bar groove.
6. Installing the New Bar:
- Align the bar mounting holes with the studs on the chainsaw.
- Slide the bar onto the studs, ensuring it is seated properly.
7. Installing the New Chain:
- Determine the correct direction of the chain. The cutting edges should point in the direction of chain rotation (usually indicated by an arrow on the chainsaw).
- Drape the chain around the sprocket at the back of the saw.
- Guide the chain into the bar groove, ensuring all the drive links are properly seated.
- Bring the ends of the chain together at the front of the bar.
8. Adjusting Chain Tension:
- Replace the chain cover.
- Tighten the bar nuts finger-tight.
- Locate the chain tensioning screw (usually on the side of the chainsaw, near the bar).
- Use the screwdriver to adjust the chain tension. The chain should be snug but still able to be pulled around the bar by hand. A good rule of thumb is that you should be able to pull the chain away from the bar about 1/8 inch at the midpoint.
- Tighten the bar nuts securely with the chainsaw wrench.
Data Point: Proper chain tension is crucial for safety and performance. Too loose, and the chain can derail. Too tight, and it can cause excessive wear on the bar and chain.
9. Final Checks:
- Rotate the chain by hand to ensure it moves freely.
- Check the chain tension again and adjust if necessary.
- Start the chainsaw and let it idle for a few seconds.
- Check the chain lubrication. Oil should be thrown off the chain as it rotates.
10. Spark Plug and Chain Brake:
- Reconnect the spark plug wire.
- Disengage the chain brake.
Chain Tensioning: A Deeper Dive
Chain tensioning is an art as much as a science. Here’s a more in-depth look at getting it just right:
- New Chains: New chains tend to stretch during the first few uses. Check and adjust the tension frequently during the initial break-in period.
- Temperature: Chain tension can change with temperature. Check the tension before each use, especially in cold weather.
- Wood Type: Cutting hardwoods can generate more heat and cause the chain to expand. Adjust the tension accordingly.
Practical Tip: After making a few cuts, stop and check the chain tension. If it’s too loose, adjust it immediately.
Bar Maintenance: Extending Its Life
The chainsaw bar is a critical component, and proper maintenance can significantly extend its lifespan.
- Cleaning: Regularly clean the bar groove to remove sawdust and debris. This ensures proper chain lubrication.
- Filing: Use a flat file to remove any burrs or imperfections from the bar rails. This prevents premature chain wear.
- Bar Rotation: Periodically rotate the bar to distribute wear evenly.
- Oil Hole Cleaning: Make sure the oil holes are clear to ensure proper lubrication of the chain. Use a small wire or the tip of a file to clear any obstructions.
Case Study: In one project, I neglected to clean the bar groove regularly. As a result, the chain wasn’t properly lubricated, and the bar rails wore down prematurely. This experience taught me the importance of consistent bar maintenance.
Chain Sharpening: Maintaining Peak Performance
A sharp chain is essential for efficient and safe cutting. Here’s a guide to sharpening your chainsaw chain:
- Tools: You’ll need a round file of the correct size for your chain (typically 5/32″ or 4.0 mm for the MS170), a file guide, and a depth gauge tool.
- Filing Angle: Maintain the correct filing angle as specified by the chain manufacturer (usually around 30 degrees).
- Depth Gauges: Use the depth gauge tool to ensure the depth gauges are set correctly. If the depth gauges are too high, the chain won’t cut effectively.
- Consistency: File each tooth evenly to maintain a consistent cutting angle and depth.
Data Point: A properly sharpened chain can cut up to 50% faster than a dull chain.
Step-by-Step Sharpening Guide:
- Secure the chainsaw in a vise or on a stable surface.
- Engage the chain brake.
- Place the file guide on the chain, aligning it with the cutting tooth.
- Use the round file to sharpen the tooth, maintaining the correct filing angle.
- Repeat for each tooth, ensuring you file each tooth evenly.
- Use the depth gauge tool to check the depth gauges and file them down if necessary.
- Rotate the chain and repeat the process for the remaining teeth.
Practical Tip: Practice makes perfect. Don’t be discouraged if your first few attempts aren’t perfect. With practice, you’ll develop a feel for the correct filing angle and pressure.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Even with proper maintenance, you may encounter some common issues with your chainsaw. Here are some troubleshooting tips:
- Chain Won’t Cut:
- Possible Cause: Dull chain.
- Solution: Sharpen the chain or replace it if necessary.
- Chain Derails:
- Possible Cause: Loose chain tension.
- Solution: Adjust the chain tension.
- Chain Binds in the Cut:
- Possible Cause: Dull chain or incorrect chain tension.
- Solution: Sharpen the chain and adjust the chain tension.
- Saw Smokes Excessively:
- Possible Cause: Insufficient chain lubrication.
- Solution: Check the bar oil level and ensure the oil holes are clear.
- Chain Breaks Frequently:
- Possible Cause: Over-tensioned chain, worn sprocket, or incorrect chain type.
- Solution: Adjust the chain tension, replace the sprocket if necessary, and ensure you’re using the correct chain type.
Personal Story: I once had a chain that kept breaking. After inspecting the sprocket, I realized it was worn and was causing the chain to bind. Replacing the sprocket solved the problem.
Safety Precautions: A Reminder
Chainsaws are powerful tools, and safety should always be your top priority. Here are some essential safety precautions:
- Wear appropriate safety gear: This includes safety glasses, hearing protection, gloves, chaps, and sturdy boots.
- Maintain a safe working distance: Keep bystanders at least 50 feet away from the work area.
- Be aware of your surroundings: Watch out for obstacles, uneven terrain, and overhead hazards.
- Use proper cutting techniques: Avoid cutting above shoulder height and always maintain a firm grip on the chainsaw.
- Never operate a chainsaw when fatigued or under the influence of drugs or alcohol.
- Inspect your chainsaw before each use: Check for loose parts, damaged components, and proper lubrication.
- Know the risks of kickback: Be aware of the kickback zone and avoid cutting with the tip of the bar.
Data Point: According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission, chainsaws cause tens of thousands of injuries each year. Taking proper safety precautions can significantly reduce your risk of injury.
Wood Selection Criteria
The type of wood you’re cutting can significantly impact the performance and longevity of your chainsaw chain.
- Hardwoods vs. Softwoods: Hardwoods like oak and maple are denser and more abrasive than softwoods like pine and fir. Hardwoods will dull your chain faster.
- Dry vs. Green Wood: Dry wood is generally easier to cut than green wood. Green wood contains more moisture, which can cause the chain to bind.
- Clean vs. Dirty Wood: Dirty wood, especially wood that has been lying on the ground, can contain dirt and grit that will quickly dull your chain.
Data Point: The Janka hardness scale measures the resistance of wood to indentation. Oak has a Janka hardness of around 1300 lbf, while pine has a Janka hardness of around 400 lbf.
Practical Tip: If you’re cutting dirty wood, clean it as much as possible before cutting to prolong the life of your chain.
Firewood Preparation: Technical Details
If you’re using your Stihl MS170 to prepare firewood, here are some technical details to keep in mind:
- Log Dimensions: Aim for log lengths that are appropriate for your wood stove or fireplace. Typically, 16-inch logs are a good size.
- Cord Volume: A cord of wood is a stack that measures 4 feet high, 4 feet wide, and 8 feet long, totaling 128 cubic feet.
- Wood Moisture Content: For optimal burning, firewood should have a moisture content of 20% or less.
- Drying Times: Drying times vary depending on the type of wood, the climate, and the stacking method. Generally, hardwoods take longer to dry than softwoods.
Data Point: Wood with a moisture content above 20% burns inefficiently and produces more smoke and creosote.
Practical Tip: Use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of your firewood before burning it.
Tool Calibration Standards
While the Stihl MS170 doesn’t require extensive calibration, it’s important to ensure that the carburetor is properly adjusted for optimal performance.
- Carburetor Adjustment: The carburetor controls the air-fuel mixture. If the engine is running too lean (too much air), it can overheat and damage the engine. If it’s running too rich (too much fuel), it can produce excessive smoke and reduce power.
- Idle Speed: The idle speed should be set according to the manufacturer’s specifications. If the idle speed is too low, the engine may stall. If it’s too high, the chain may rotate even when the throttle is released.
Practical Tip: If you’re not comfortable adjusting the carburetor yourself, take your chainsaw to a qualified service technician.
Conclusion: Keep Your Saw Humming
Replacing the bar and chain on your Stihl MS170 is a task that, while seemingly daunting at first, becomes second nature with practice. By understanding the importance of each component, following the steps outlined in this guide, and prioritizing safety, you can keep your chainsaw running smoothly and efficiently for years to come. Remember that November morning I mentioned earlier? Now, I always carry a spare chain and the tools to replace it. I’ve learned that being prepared is half the battle. So, get out there, tackle those projects, and enjoy the satisfaction of working with a well-maintained machine. And remember, a sharp chain isn’t just about cutting wood; it’s about cutting through the obstacles and getting the job done right.
