Stihl MS 391 25 Inch Bar Price (5 Pro Tips for Serious Loggers)
Ever wonder what squirrels think when they see us lugging around chainsaws? Probably something along the lines of, “Oh great, here comes the neighborhood barber…with a vengeance!” Speaking of vengeance, let’s talk about taming some serious timber with the Stihl MS 391 and a 25-inch bar. You’re eyeing that saw, which means you’re not messing around. You’re either a seasoned logger looking for some edge, or you’re about to become one. Either way, I’m here to arm you with the knowledge you need to wield that MS 391 like a pro. We’ll cover everything from understanding its pricing sweet spot to five pro tips that’ll transform you into a wood-processing wizard.
The State of the Wood: A Global Glimpse
Before we dive into the nitty-gritty, let’s zoom out for a second. The wood processing industry is a massive, multifaceted beast. Globally, it’s estimated to be worth hundreds of billions of dollars, fueled by everything from construction and furniture to paper products and, of course, firewood.
- Construction Boom: In developing countries, wood is still a primary building material, driving significant demand.
- Renewable Energy Push: Firewood and wood pellets are gaining traction as renewable energy sources, especially in colder climates.
- Sustainable Forestry: There’s a growing emphasis on sustainable logging practices, with certifications like FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) becoming increasingly important.
- Technological Advancements: Modern sawmills and wood processing facilities are employing advanced technologies like automated sorting, laser cutting, and even robotics to improve efficiency and reduce waste.
And what about firewood? Well, it’s not just for cozy nights by the fire anymore. The firewood industry supports countless small businesses, provides crucial winter heating for many households, and even contributes to local economies.
Stihl MS 391 25 Inch Bar: A Price Point Perspective
Okay, let’s get down to brass tacks. You want to know about the price of a Stihl MS 391 with a 25-inch bar. Here’s the deal: prices can fluctuate wildly depending on your location, the dealer, and any ongoing promotions.
- Base Price: Expect to see the MS 391 with a 25-inch bar hovering around the $600-$800 mark. This is a ballpark figure, so don’t be surprised if you see variations.
- Dealer Discounts: Don’t be afraid to haggle! Independent dealers often have more wiggle room on pricing than big box stores.
- Online vs. Local: Online retailers might offer slightly lower prices, but remember the value of local support. A good dealer can be a lifesaver when you need parts or service.
- Used Market: Consider the used market, but proceed with caution. Inspect the saw thoroughly, and ask about its history. A well-maintained used MS 391 can be a fantastic bargain.
- Bundled Deals: Keep an eye out for bundled deals that include extras like extra chains, bar oil, or safety gear. These can sweeten the pot and save you some cash.
Pro Tip: Call around to multiple dealers to get quotes. Use these quotes to negotiate a better price. Knowledge is power, my friend!
Understanding the MS 391: A Technical Deep Dive
Before we unleash the pro tips, let’s get to know the MS 391 a little better. This isn’t just any saw; it’s a workhorse designed to tackle demanding tasks.
- Engine: The MS 391 boasts a powerful 64.1 cc engine, providing ample torque for felling trees and bucking logs.
- Bar Length: The 25-inch bar is ideal for tackling larger diameter trees, giving you the reach you need.
- Weight: Weighing in at around 13.7 lbs (without fuel and bar), it’s not the lightest saw on the market, but the power-to-weight ratio is excellent.
- Fuel Capacity: The generous fuel tank (20.3 oz) allows for extended run times, reducing the need for frequent refueling.
- Anti-Vibration System: Stihl’s anti-vibration system helps to minimize operator fatigue, allowing you to work longer and more comfortably.
Key Specs:
- Displacement: 64.1 cc
- Power Output: 4.1 hp
- Weight (without fuel and bar): 13.7 lbs
- Fuel Capacity: 20.3 oz
- Oil Capacity: 11.2 oz
Pro Tip #1: Mastering the Art of Chain Sharpening
A dull chain is a logger’s worst enemy. It’s not only inefficient, but it’s also dangerous. A sharp chain bites into the wood, while a dull chain bounces and kicks back. I learned this the hard way when I first started. I was so eager to fell my first tree that I completely neglected my chain. The result? A whole lot of frustration and a near-miss when the saw kicked back unexpectedly.
- Frequency: Sharpen your chain every time you refuel, or more often if you notice it’s not cutting as smoothly.
- Tools: Invest in a good quality chain sharpening kit. This should include a file, a file guide, and a depth gauge.
- Technique: Use the file guide to maintain the correct angle and depth. File each tooth evenly, and pay attention to the depth gauge settings.
- Maintenance: Keep your file clean and sharp. A dull file is just as bad as a dull chain.
Sharpening Steps:
- Secure the Saw: Place the saw in a vise or clamp it securely to a workbench.
- Identify the Cutter Type: Determine the type of cutter on your chain (e.g., chisel, semi-chisel). This will affect the filing angle.
- Set the File Guide: Adjust the file guide to the correct angle for your cutter type. Stihl chains typically require a 30-degree angle.
- File the Cutters: Use smooth, even strokes to file each cutter. Maintain a consistent angle and depth.
- Check the Depth Gauges: Use the depth gauge tool to ensure the depth gauges are set correctly. Adjust as needed.
- Test the Chain: After sharpening, test the chain on a piece of wood. It should cut smoothly and aggressively.
Data Point: Studies show that a properly sharpened chain can increase cutting efficiency by up to 50%.
Pro Tip #2: Fueling Your Firepower: The Right Mix
The MS 391 is a two-stroke engine, which means it requires a mixture of gasoline and oil. Using the wrong fuel mixture can lead to engine damage and reduced performance. I remember one time, a buddy of mine thought he could “eyeball” the fuel mixture. Let’s just say his chainsaw didn’t last very long.
- Ratio: Always use the manufacturer’s recommended fuel-to-oil ratio. For the MS 391, this is typically 50:1 (50 parts gasoline to 1 part oil).
- Gasoline: Use high-quality gasoline with an octane rating of 89 or higher. Avoid using gasoline that contains ethanol, as it can damage the engine.
- Oil: Use a high-quality two-stroke oil specifically designed for air-cooled engines. Stihl Ultra HP oil is a good choice.
- Mixing: Mix the fuel and oil thoroughly in a separate container before adding it to the saw’s fuel tank.
- Storage: Store fuel mixtures in a cool, dry place. Fuel mixtures can degrade over time, so it’s best to use them within a few weeks.
The Math:
- For a 1-gallon (128 oz) container of gasoline, you’ll need 2.56 oz of two-stroke oil (128 oz / 50 = 2.56 oz).
- For a 5-gallon (640 oz) container of gasoline, you’ll need 12.8 oz of two-stroke oil (640 oz / 50 = 12.8 oz).
Actionable Tip: Use a pre-measured two-stroke oil packet to ensure accurate mixing.
Pro Tip #3: Mastering Felling Techniques: Safety First
Felling a tree is a serious undertaking, and it should never be taken lightly. I’ve seen too many accidents caused by carelessness and lack of knowledge. Always prioritize safety, and never hesitate to ask for help if you’re unsure about something.
- Planning: Before you even start your saw, take the time to assess the tree and its surroundings. Look for any hazards, such as power lines, buildings, or other trees.
- Escape Route: Plan your escape route in advance. This should be a clear path away from the tree, at a 45-degree angle to the direction of the fall.
- Notch Cut: The notch cut determines the direction of the fall. It should be made at a 70-degree angle, with the top cut slightly deeper than the bottom cut.
- Back Cut: The back cut is made opposite the notch cut. Leave a hinge of wood to control the fall of the tree.
- Wedges: Use wedges to help guide the fall of the tree, especially if it’s leaning in the wrong direction.
Felling Steps:
- Clear the Area: Remove any obstacles from around the base of the tree.
- Plan Your Escape Route: Identify a clear path away from the tree.
- Make the Notch Cut: Cut the notch on the side of the tree facing the direction you want it to fall.
- Make the Back Cut: Cut the back cut opposite the notch, leaving a hinge of wood.
- Insert Wedges: If necessary, insert wedges into the back cut to help guide the fall.
- Watch the Tree: As the tree begins to fall, step back along your escape route and watch carefully.
Data Point: According to the U.S. Forest Service, improper felling techniques are a leading cause of logging accidents.
Case Study: I once worked with a logger who completely misjudged the lean of a tree. He made his cuts, but the tree fell in the opposite direction, narrowly missing his truck. He learned a valuable lesson that day: always double-check your assessment and never underestimate the power of nature.
Pro Tip #4: De-Liming Like a Pro: Efficiency and Control
De-limbing is the process of removing the branches from a felled tree. It’s a crucial step in preparing the tree for bucking and processing. Doing it efficiently not only saves time but also reduces the risk of injury.
- Positioning: Position yourself on the uphill side of the tree, if possible. This will give you better leverage and control.
- Cutting Technique: Use smooth, controlled cuts to remove the branches. Avoid cutting into the trunk of the tree.
- Direction: Cut the branches from the bottom up, working your way towards the top of the tree.
- Safety: Always be aware of your surroundings, and watch out for kickback.
- Tools: Use a de-limbing axe or a chainsaw with a shorter bar for smaller branches.
De-limbing Steps:
- Assess the Tree: Identify the branches that need to be removed.
- Position Yourself: Find a safe and comfortable position on the uphill side of the tree.
- Start at the Bottom: Begin removing the branches from the bottom of the tree.
- Use Smooth Cuts: Use smooth, controlled cuts to remove the branches.
- Work Your Way Up: Continue removing branches, working your way towards the top of the tree.
- Clean Up: Remove any debris from the area.
Actionable Tip: Use a hook or a peavey to roll the log, making it easier to access the branches on the underside.
Pro Tip #5: Bucking for Firewood: Precision and Safety
Bucking is the process of cutting a log into shorter lengths. This is a critical step in preparing firewood for seasoning and burning. Accurate bucking ensures consistent firewood sizes, leading to efficient burning and easier handling.
- Planning: Determine the desired length of your firewood. A common length is 16 inches, but this can vary depending on your stove or fireplace.
- Measuring: Use a measuring stick or tape measure to mark the log at the desired intervals.
- Cutting: Use a chainsaw to cut the log at the marked intervals.
- Support: Support the log properly to prevent it from pinching the saw. Use log stands or other supports to keep the log off the ground.
- Safety: Always wear safety glasses and hearing protection when bucking.
Bucking Steps:
- Determine Firewood Length: Decide on the desired length of your firewood.
- Measure and Mark: Use a measuring stick to mark the log at the desired intervals.
- Support the Log: Use log stands to support the log and prevent pinching.
- Make the Cuts: Use a chainsaw to cut the log at the marked intervals.
- Stack the Firewood: Stack the firewood in a well-ventilated area to promote drying.
Data Point: Properly bucked firewood burns more efficiently and produces less smoke.
Troubleshooting:
- Pinching: If the saw starts to pinch, stop cutting immediately and use a wedge to open the cut.
- Kickback: Be aware of the risk of kickback, and use proper cutting techniques to avoid it.
Beyond the Saw: Essential Tools and Gear
The MS 391 is a powerful tool, but it’s just one piece of the puzzle. To be a truly successful logger or firewood producer, you’ll need a range of other essential tools and gear.
- Safety Gear:
- Helmet: Protects your head from falling branches and debris.
- Safety Glasses: Protects your eyes from flying chips and dust.
- Hearing Protection: Protects your ears from the loud noise of the chainsaw.
- Chainsaw Chaps: Protects your legs from accidental cuts.
- Gloves: Provides a good grip and protects your hands.
- Steel-Toed Boots: Protects your feet from heavy logs and sharp objects.
- Logging Tools:
- Felling Axe: Used for felling smaller trees and splitting logs.
- Peavey: Used for rolling and moving logs.
- Cant Hook: Similar to a peavey, but with a larger hook for handling larger logs.
- Wedges: Used to help guide the fall of trees and split logs.
- Sledgehammer: Used to drive wedges.
- Firewood Tools:
- Log Splitter: Used to split logs into smaller pieces for firewood.
- Firewood Rack: Used to store and season firewood.
- Moisture Meter: Used to measure the moisture content of firewood.
Budgeting Considerations:
- Initial Investment: Expect to spend several hundred dollars on essential safety gear and logging tools.
- Maintenance Costs: Budget for regular maintenance, such as chain sharpening, oil changes, and spark plug replacements.
- Fuel Costs: Factor in the cost of gasoline and two-stroke oil.
- Replacement Costs: Be prepared to replace worn-out tools and equipment over time.
The Science of Seasoning: Drying Your Firewood
Green wood is full of moisture, making it difficult to burn and producing a lot of smoke. Seasoning is the process of drying firewood to reduce its moisture content. Properly seasoned firewood burns hotter, cleaner, and more efficiently.
- Moisture Content: Aim for a moisture content of 20% or less.
- Stacking: Stack the firewood in a single row, with gaps between the pieces to allow for air circulation.
- Location: Choose a sunny, well-ventilated location for your firewood stack.
- Covering: Cover the top of the stack to protect it from rain and snow.
- Time: Seasoning typically takes 6-12 months, depending on the type of wood and the climate.
Seasoning Steps:
- Split the Wood: Split the logs into smaller pieces to speed up the drying process.
- Stack the Wood: Stack the firewood in a single row, with gaps between the pieces.
- Choose a Location: Select a sunny, well-ventilated location for your stack.
- Cover the Top: Cover the top of the stack to protect it from rain and snow.
- Wait: Allow the firewood to season for 6-12 months.
- Test the Moisture Content: Use a moisture meter to check the moisture content before burning.
Data Point: Studies show that seasoned firewood produces up to 50% more heat than green firewood.
Real Example: I have a friend who lives in a humid climate. He struggles to season his firewood properly. He’s found that using a dehumidifier in his woodshed helps to speed up the drying process.
Wood Species: The Firewood Hierarchy
Not all firewood is created equal. Different wood species have different densities, heat outputs, and burning characteristics. Understanding these differences can help you choose the best firewood for your needs.
- Hardwoods: Hardwoods are generally denser and produce more heat than softwoods. Examples include oak, maple, ash, and birch.
- Softwoods: Softwoods are less dense and burn more quickly than hardwoods. Examples include pine, fir, and spruce.
Firewood Ranking (Based on Heat Output):
- Oak: High heat output, long burning time.
- Maple: High heat output, good burning time.
- Ash: High heat output, easy to split.
- Birch: Medium heat output, good burning time.
- Pine: Low heat output, burns quickly.
Actionable Tip: Mix different types of firewood to achieve a balance of heat output and burning time.
Common Pitfalls and How to Avoid Them
Even with the best preparation, things can sometimes go wrong. Here are some common pitfalls to watch out for, and how to avoid them.
- Dull Chain: A dull chain is inefficient and dangerous. Sharpen your chain regularly.
- Improper Fuel Mixture: Using the wrong fuel mixture can damage your engine. Always use the manufacturer’s recommended ratio.
- Careless Felling: Felling trees can be dangerous. Always plan your cuts and escape route carefully.
- Poor Seasoning: Improperly seasoned firewood burns poorly and produces a lot of smoke. Stack your firewood properly and allow it to season for at least 6 months.
- Neglecting Safety Gear: Safety gear is essential for protecting yourself from injury. Always wear a helmet, safety glasses, hearing protection, and chainsaw chaps.
Troubleshooting Guide:
- Saw Won’t Start: Check the fuel level, spark plug, and air filter.
- Saw Runs Poorly: Clean the carburetor and check the fuel lines.
- Chain Binds: Sharpen the chain and check the bar for damage.
- Tree Falls in the Wrong Direction: Reassess the lean of the tree and adjust your cuts accordingly.
Next Steps and Additional Resources
You’ve now got the knowledge to make an informed decision about that Stihl MS 391 and wield it with expertise. But the journey doesn’t end here.
- Local Dealers: Visit your local Stihl dealer to see the MS 391 in person and ask any remaining questions.
- Online Forums: Join online logging and firewood forums to connect with other enthusiasts and share your experiences.
- Training Courses: Consider taking a chainsaw safety course to learn proper techniques and safety procedures.
- Equipment Rental: If you don’t want to invest in your own equipment, consider renting logging tools and firewood processing equipment.
Supplier Recommendations:
- Stihl Dealers: Find a local Stihl dealer on the Stihl website.
- Logging Equipment Suppliers: Forestry Suppliers, Bailey’s.
- Safety Gear Suppliers: Northern Tool, Amazon.
So, there you have it. Five pro tips to help you master the Stihl MS 391 with a 25-inch bar. Now get out there, respect the wood, and make some sawdust! And remember, always wear your safety gear. After all, nobody wants to end up as the squirrel’s next bad haircut story.
