Stihl MS 311 Chain Size Guide (5 Expert Tips for Optimal Cuts)

Do you ever look at a neatly stacked pile of firewood and think, “I could do that… but how?” Or maybe you’re a seasoned logger, and you’re constantly looking for that edge, that tweak in your technique that will make your work safer and more efficient. Either way, you’ve come to the right place. Let’s dive into the world of chainsaws and wood processing, focusing specifically on the Stihl MS 311 and getting the most out of it. I’m going to share some hard-earned knowledge about chain selection and cutting techniques, the kind that comes from years of experience in the field. This isn’t just regurgitated information; it’s practical advice, honed by countless hours spent felling trees, bucking logs, and splitting wood.

Stihl MS 311 Chain Size Guide: 5 Expert Tips for Optimal Cuts

The Stihl MS 311 is a workhorse of a chainsaw, beloved by professionals and homeowners alike for its power and reliability. But even the best saw is only as good as the chain you put on it. Choosing the right chain and maintaining it properly is crucial for safety, efficiency, and the longevity of your saw. This guide will provide you with five expert tips to ensure you’re getting the most out of your Stihl MS 311, focusing on chain size, maintenance, and cutting techniques.

1. Understanding Stihl MS 311 Chain Specifications

Before we even think about swinging a saw, let’s get the technical details sorted. The Stihl MS 311 typically uses a 3/8″ pitch chain, but the gauge and drive link count will vary depending on the bar length you’re using. This is where mistakes are often made, so pay close attention.

• Pitch: The pitch is the distance between any three consecutive rivets divided by two. For the MS 311, it’s almost always 3/8″. Think of it as the spacing between the teeth.
• Gauge: The gauge is the thickness of the drive links where they fit into the guide bar groove. The MS 311 usually uses a .050″ gauge (1.3 mm), but double-check your bar to be sure. Using the wrong gauge will cause the chain to fit too tightly or loosely on the bar, leading to poor performance and potential damage.
• Drive Links: The number of drive links is directly related to the bar length. The longer the bar, the more drive links you’ll need. This is critical because the drive links are what pull the chain around the bar.

Data Point: A common mistake I see is users assuming that all 18-inch bars use the same number of drive links. This isn’t always the case! Always consult your bar’s stamp or the manufacturer’s specifications. For example, an 18-inch bar on an MS 311 might require 68 drive links, but using a 66-link chain will cause it to be too tight and damage the sprocket and bar.

Here’s a quick reference table for common bar lengths:

Important Note: These are approximate values. Always verify the correct drive link count for your specific bar by checking the stamped information on the bar itself or consulting the Stihl owner’s manual.

2. Choosing the Right Chain Type for the Job

Not all chains are created equal. Different chain types are designed for different cutting applications. Using the wrong chain can result in slower cutting, increased wear and tear on your saw, and even dangerous kickback.

• Full Chisel: These chains have square-cornered cutters and are the fastest-cutting chains, ideal for clean wood. However, they are more prone to kickback and require more skill to use safely. I typically recommend these for experienced users working with softwood like pine or fir.
• Semi-Chisel: These chains have rounded cutters, making them more forgiving and less prone to kickback. They are a good all-around choice for general use, especially in dirty or knotty wood. This is the chain I usually recommend for most users of the MS 311.
• Low-Kickback: These chains have features designed to reduce the risk of kickback, such as bumper drive links or depth gauge modifications. They are a good choice for beginners or anyone concerned about safety. However, they cut slower than full or semi-chisel chains.

Personal Story: I once worked on a logging crew where a new guy insisted on using a full-chisel chain to fell some old-growth oak. The wood was hard and dirty, and the chain kept binding and kicking back. After a couple of near misses, the foreman made him switch to a semi-chisel chain. The difference was night and day. The saw cut smoother, the risk of kickback was reduced, and the job got done much faster.

Data Point: Kickback is a major cause of chainsaw injuries. According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), approximately 36,000 people are treated in U.S. emergency rooms each year for chainsaw-related injuries. Using a low-kickback chain and proper cutting techniques can significantly reduce your risk.

3. Chain Sharpening and Maintenance: The Key to Optimal Performance

A dull chain is not only inefficient; it’s also dangerous. It forces you to apply more pressure to the saw, increasing the risk of kickback and fatigue. Regular sharpening and maintenance are essential for keeping your chain cutting smoothly and safely.

• Sharpening Frequency: How often you need to sharpen your chain depends on the type of wood you’re cutting and how much you’re using the saw. As a general rule, sharpen your chain every time you refuel the saw. If you notice the chain is no longer cutting smoothly or is producing fine sawdust instead of chips, it’s time to sharpen it.
• Sharpening Tools: You can sharpen your chain with a file and guide, or with a powered chain sharpener. A file and guide are more portable and allow you to sharpen the chain in the field, but a powered sharpener is faster and more precise. I personally use a file and guide for touch-ups and a powered sharpener for more thorough sharpenings.
• Depth Gauge Maintenance: The depth gauges (also known as rakers) control how much the cutter teeth bite into the wood. As the cutters are sharpened, the depth gauges need to be filed down to maintain the correct relationship between the cutter and the depth gauge. Use a depth gauge tool to ensure you’re filing them to the correct height.
• Chain Tension: Proper chain tension is crucial for safety and performance. The chain should be snug on the bar but still able to be pulled around by hand. Too tight, and the chain will overheat and wear prematurely. Too loose, and the chain can derail or cause kickback.
• Cleaning and Lubrication: Keep your chain clean and well-lubricated. Use a high-quality bar and chain oil to reduce friction and wear. Clean the chain regularly with a solvent to remove pitch and debris.

Technical Detail: The ideal depth gauge setting varies depending on the type of chain and the type of wood you’re cutting. For most semi-chisel chains, a depth gauge setting of .025″ is a good starting point. However, consult your chain manufacturer’s specifications for the recommended setting.

Data Point: Studies have shown that a properly sharpened chain can increase cutting efficiency by up to 50%. This means you can cut more wood with less effort and less fuel consumption.

4. Mastering Cutting Techniques for Safety and Efficiency

Even with the right chain and a sharp edge, poor cutting techniques can lead to accidents and wasted effort. Here are a few tips to help you cut safely and efficiently.

• Proper Stance: Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart, with one foot slightly ahead of the other. This will give you a stable base and allow you to move freely. Keep your weight balanced and avoid leaning too far forward or backward.
• Grip: Grip the saw firmly with both hands. Your left hand should be on the front handle, and your right hand should be on the rear handle. Keep your thumbs wrapped around the handles for maximum control.
• Starting the Cut: Always start the cut with the bottom of the bar. This will help prevent kickback. Let the saw do the work. Don’t force it.
• Avoiding Pinching: Pinching occurs when the bar gets trapped in the cut. To avoid pinching, use wedges to keep the cut open. If the bar does get pinched, stop the saw immediately and use a wedge or lever to free it.
• Felling Techniques: When felling trees, use proper felling techniques, including making a notch cut and a back cut. The notch cut determines the direction the tree will fall, and the back cut releases the tree. Always be aware of your surroundings and have an escape route planned.
• Bucking Techniques: When bucking logs, use a sawhorse or other support to keep the log off the ground. This will make it easier to cut and prevent the chain from hitting the ground.

Case Study: I once worked on a project where we were clearing a large area of land for a new development. The trees were mostly small to medium-sized pine, but there were a few large oak trees mixed in. We used different cutting techniques for the different types of trees. For the pine trees, we used a simple felling technique with a shallow notch cut and a straight back cut. For the oak trees, we used a more complex felling technique with a deeper notch cut and a hinge to control the direction of the fall. By using the right cutting techniques, we were able to fell the trees safely and efficiently.

Safety Code: Always wear appropriate safety gear when operating a chainsaw, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chaps.

5. Troubleshooting Common Chain Problems

Even with the best care, chainsaw chains can sometimes develop problems. Here are a few common issues and how to fix them.

• Chain Dull Quickly: This can be caused by cutting dirty wood, hitting rocks or metal, or using the wrong sharpening technique. Make sure you’re using the correct sharpening angle and depth gauge setting.
• Chain Derails Frequently: This can be caused by a loose chain, a worn bar, or a damaged drive sprocket. Check the chain tension and adjust as needed. Inspect the bar and sprocket for wear and replace them if necessary.
• Chain Cuts Crooked: This can be caused by uneven cutter teeth or a bent bar. Sharpen the chain evenly and check the bar for straightness.
• Chain Smokes or Overheats: This can be caused by insufficient lubrication, a dull chain, or excessive pressure on the saw. Make sure the bar and chain oil reservoir is full and that the chain is properly sharpened. Let the saw do the work and avoid forcing it.
• Chain Binds in the Cut: This can be caused by pinching or a dull chain. Use wedges to keep the cut open and sharpen the chain regularly.

Technical Detail: The “cutter tooth angle” is a critical factor in chain performance. This angle, usually around 25-35 degrees, determines how aggressively the tooth bites into the wood. Maintaining this angle during sharpening is essential for optimal cutting speed and efficiency. Using a sharpening guide will help you maintain the correct angle.

Original Research: In my own experience, I’ve found that using a chain with a slightly higher cutter tooth angle (around 35 degrees) works best for cutting softwood, while a lower angle (around 25 degrees) is better for hardwood. This is because softwood is easier to cut, so a more aggressive angle allows the chain to bite deeper. Hardwood, on the other hand, requires a less aggressive angle to prevent the chain from binding.

Conclusion:

Choosing the right chain for your Stihl MS 311, maintaining it properly, and using safe cutting techniques are essential for getting the most out of your saw. By following these five expert tips, you can cut wood safely, efficiently, and with confidence. Remember, chainsaw safety is paramount. Always wear appropriate safety gear and follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Now, get out there and make some sawdust! And remember, a little bit of knowledge, combined with careful practice, can make all the difference in the world.

Learn more