Stihl MS 310 Specs: Best Bar Length Tips (5 Pro Arborist Hacks)
What if you could wield a chainsaw with the precision of a seasoned arborist, effortlessly felling trees and processing wood with optimal efficiency? The Stihl MS 310 is a workhorse of a chainsaw, and understanding its specifications, particularly bar length, is crucial to maximizing its potential. I’ve spent years in the woods, felling trees, bucking logs, and splitting firewood. I have learned that the right bar length isn’t just a matter of preference; it’s about safety, efficiency, and the longevity of your saw. In this article, I will share my insights, along with five pro arborist hacks, to help you make the most of your Stihl MS 310.
Stihl MS 310 Specs: Best Bar Length Tips (5 Pro Arborist Hacks)
The Stihl MS 310 is a mid-range chainsaw, prized for its reliability and power. But even the best tool needs to be properly equipped. Let’s dive into the specifics and how to choose the right bar length.
Understanding the Stihl MS 310
Before we delve into bar lengths, let’s recap the MS 310’s core specifications. This will help understand the saw’s capabilities and limitations.
- Engine Displacement: 59.0 cc (3.6 cu. in.)
- Engine Power: 3.2 kW (4.3 bhp)
- Weight (Powerhead Only): 5.9 kg (13.0 lbs)
- Fuel Capacity: 0.56 L (18.9 oz)
- Oil Capacity: 0.28 L (9.5 oz)
- Recommended Bar Lengths: 16″, 18″, 20″
These specs tell us that the MS 310 is a powerful saw, but it’s not a heavy-duty machine designed for felling giant redwoods. It’s a versatile saw suitable for various tasks, from felling medium-sized trees to limbing and cutting firewood.
Why Bar Length Matters
The bar length dictates the maximum diameter of wood you can cut in a single pass. More importantly, it significantly affects:
- Saw Control: A longer bar can make the saw feel unwieldy, especially for less experienced users. A shorter bar improves maneuverability.
- Cutting Efficiency: An adequately sized bar allows you to cut through a log in one smooth motion, reducing cutting time and wear on the saw.
- Safety: Using a bar that’s too long can increase the risk of kickback and make the saw harder to control.
- Saw Longevity: Overworking the saw with a bar that’s too long can strain the engine and shorten its lifespan.
Choosing the Right Bar Length
The “best” bar length for your Stihl MS 310 depends on the type of work you’ll be doing and your level of experience. Here’s a breakdown:
- 16″ Bar: Ideal for limbing, pruning, and cutting small firewood. It offers excellent maneuverability and control, making it a good choice for beginners.
- 18″ Bar: A versatile option suitable for felling small to medium-sized trees and cutting firewood. It’s a good compromise between power and control. I often recommend this as a great “all-around” bar.
- 20″ Bar: Best for felling medium-sized trees and bucking larger logs. It requires more experience and caution due to the increased risk of kickback. This bar length really pushes the MS 310 to its limit, so ensure your chain is razor-sharp.
My Experience: I started with an 18″ bar on my MS 310. I found it manageable for most tasks. As my skills improved, I occasionally used a 20″ bar for larger trees, but I always felt more comfortable and in control with the 18″ option.
5 Pro Arborist Hacks for Stihl MS 310 Bar Length
Now, let’s get to the real meat of the matter. Here are five hacks I’ve learned from seasoned arborists over the years to optimize your Stihl MS 310’s performance based on bar length.
Hack #1: The “Two-Thirds” Rule
This is a fundamental principle for choosing the right bar length. The bar should be at least two-thirds the diameter of the largest tree you plan to fell regularly. This ensures you can make a clean, controlled cut without overextending the saw.
- Example: If you typically fell trees with a diameter of 24 inches, an 18″ or 20″ bar would be appropriate.
Hack #2: Chain Sharpness is Paramount
Regardless of the bar length you choose, a dull chain will drastically reduce the saw’s performance and increase the risk of kickback. Sharpen your chain regularly, ideally after every use or when you notice a decrease in cutting speed.
- Insight: Learn to sharpen your chain by hand with a file. It’s a valuable skill that will save you time and money. I use a 7/32″ file for my MS 310 chain.
Hack #3: Adjust Oiler Output
Longer bars require more oil to keep the chain lubricated. Check your saw’s oiler output and adjust it accordingly. Insufficient lubrication can lead to premature wear on the bar and chain.
- Tip: Run the saw at full throttle and point the bar at a light-colored surface. A visible spray of oil indicates proper lubrication.
Hack #4: Leverage the “Bore Cut” Technique (With Caution)
For larger trees, the bore cut technique can be used to reduce the risk of pinching the bar. This involves plunging the tip of the bar into the wood to create a notch before making the felling cut. However, this technique should only be attempted by experienced users due to the increased risk of kickback.
- Safety First: Always use a low-kickback chain and maintain a firm grip on the saw when performing a bore cut.
Hack #5: Match Chain Type to Wood Type
Different chain types are designed for different types of wood. For hardwood, use a chain with a more aggressive cutting angle. For softwood, a less aggressive chain will suffice.
- Experiment: Try different chain types to see what works best for the wood you’re cutting. I prefer a full-chisel chain for hardwoods like oak and maple.
Wood Anatomy and Properties: Understanding Your Material
The type of wood you’re cutting significantly impacts the required bar length and cutting technique. Understanding wood anatomy and properties is key to efficient and safe wood processing.
- Hardwood vs. Softwood: Hardwoods (e.g., oak, maple, hickory) are denser and more difficult to cut than softwoods (e.g., pine, fir, spruce). Hardwoods require a sharper chain and more power.
- Moisture Content: Green wood (freshly cut) is much heavier and harder to cut than seasoned wood. Green wood also tends to bind the bar more easily.
- Grain Direction: Cutting with the grain is easier than cutting against the grain. Be aware of the grain direction when felling trees and bucking logs.
Data Point: According to the USDA Forest Service, hardwoods typically have a density of 40 lbs/cubic foot or greater, while softwoods have a density of less than 40 lbs/cubic foot.
Logging Tool Selection and Maintenance Best Practices
Beyond the chainsaw, several other logging tools can improve your efficiency and safety.
- Felling Axe/Wedges: Used to help direct the fall of a tree.
- Cant Hook/Peavey: Used to roll and position logs.
- Measuring Tape/Log Scale: Used to measure logs for bucking.
- Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Includes a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, chainsaw chaps, and gloves.
Maintenance is Key: Regularly inspect and maintain all your logging tools. Sharpen your axe, lubricate your cant hook, and replace worn-out PPE.
Firewood Seasoning Techniques and Safety Considerations
Properly seasoned firewood burns hotter, cleaner, and more efficiently.
- Splitting: Split firewood before seasoning to speed up the drying process.
- Stacking: Stack firewood in a single row, off the ground, with good air circulation.
- Drying Time: Season firewood for at least six months, preferably longer. Hardwoods may require up to two years to season properly.
Safety First: Always wear eye protection and gloves when splitting firewood. Use a hydraulic splitter if you’re splitting large quantities of wood.
Data Point: According to the Energy Information Administration (EIA), properly seasoned firewood has a moisture content of 20% or less.
Project Planning and Execution: A Case Study
Let’s look at a real-world example of how to choose the right bar length for a specific project.
Scenario: You need to clear a 1-acre lot of mixed hardwoods and softwoods for a building site. The trees range in diameter from 6 inches to 24 inches.
Planning:
- Assess the Site: Identify the types of trees present and their average diameter.
- Choose the Right Tools: In addition to the Stihl MS 310, you’ll need a felling axe, wedges, a cant hook, and PPE.
- Select the Appropriate Bar Length: Based on the tree diameters, an 18″ or 20″ bar would be suitable. I’d lean towards the 18″ for the mixed sizes and better control.
- Develop a Felling Plan: Plan the direction of fall for each tree to minimize hazards and maximize efficiency.
Execution:
- Clear the Underbrush: Remove any obstacles that could interfere with felling.
- Fell the Trees: Use proper felling techniques to ensure the trees fall in the desired direction.
- Limb the Trees: Remove the branches from the felled trees.
- Buck the Logs: Cut the logs into manageable lengths for firewood or other uses.
- Stack the Firewood: Season the firewood for future use.
My Insight: In a project like this, proper planning is crucial. Take the time to assess the site, choose the right tools, and develop a felling plan. This will save you time, effort, and potential injuries.
Detailed Comparisons: Manual vs.
Manual Splitters:
- Pros: Affordable, portable, no fuel required.
- Cons: Labor-intensive, slower, limited splitting force.
- Best For: Small quantities of firewood, occasional use.
Hydraulic Splitters:
- Pros: Fast, powerful, less labor-intensive.
- Cons: More expensive, less portable, requires fuel or electricity.
- Best For: Large quantities of firewood, frequent use.
My Recommendation: If you’re splitting more than a few cords of firewood per year, a hydraulic splitter is a worthwhile investment. It will save you a lot of time and effort. I upgraded to a 27-ton hydraulic splitter a few years ago, and it was a game-changer.
Current Industry Statistics and Data Points
- Chainsaw Market Size: According to a report by Global Market Insights, the chainsaw market is expected to reach USD 4.5 billion by 2027.
- Firewood Consumption: The EIA estimates that approximately 25 million households in the United States use wood as a primary or secondary heating source.
- Accident Rates: The Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) estimates that there are approximately 30,000 chainsaw-related injuries each year in the United States.
Key Takeaway: Chainsaws are powerful tools, but they can also be dangerous. Always use proper safety precautions and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
- Limited Budget: Affording high-quality tools and equipment can be a challenge.
- Lack of Space: Small workshops may have limited space for storing wood and equipment.
- Access to Resources: Access to reliable information and training can be limited.
- Environmental Regulations: Complying with local environmental regulations can be difficult.
My Advice: Start small, invest in quality tools as your budget allows, and network with other woodworkers in your area. There are many online resources available to help you learn new skills and techniques.
Conclusion: Key Takeaways and Next Steps
Choosing the right bar length for your Stihl MS 310 is crucial for safety, efficiency, and saw longevity. Remember the “two-thirds” rule, keep your chain sharp, and adjust the oiler output as needed. By implementing these pro arborist hacks, you can maximize the performance of your saw and tackle any wood processing project with confidence.
Next Steps:
- Assess your needs: Determine the type of work you’ll be doing and the size of trees you’ll be felling.
- Choose the right bar length: Based on your needs, select the appropriate bar length for your Stihl MS 310.
- Sharpen your chain: Learn to sharpen your chain by hand or invest in a chain sharpener.
- Practice safe cutting techniques: Always wear PPE and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
- Get out there and start cutting!
The Stihl MS 310 is a reliable and versatile chainsaw. With the right bar length and proper technique, you can tackle any wood processing project with ease. Now, get out there and make some sawdust!