Stihl MS 310 Price Guide (5 Expert Tips For Oak Firewood Cutting)

The Stihl MS 310 and the Art of Oak Firewood

Why Oak? Why the Stihl MS 310?

Oak is a top-tier firewood choice. It burns hot, long, and clean, producing excellent coals that maintain heat for extended periods. However, its density and hardness pose a challenge. This is where the Stihl MS 310 comes in. It’s a mid-range chainsaw known for its balance of power and manageability, making it a suitable choice for tackling oak without being excessively heavy or cumbersome.

Over the years, I’ve worked with numerous chainsaws, from small electric models to professional-grade behemoths. The MS 310 occupies a sweet spot. It’s powerful enough to handle most oak rounds you’ll encounter for firewood, yet it’s not so heavy that it leads to fatigue during long cutting sessions.

Part 1: Understanding the Stihl MS 310

Before we start felling trees or bucking rounds, let’s get acquainted with the Stihl MS 310.

Key Specifications

Engine Displacement: 59 cc
Power Output: 3.2 kW (4.3 bhp)
Weight: 5.9 kg (13 lbs) without fuel, bar, and chain
Guide Bar Length: Typically available in 16″, 18″, and 20″ options
Fuel Capacity: 0.68 liters
Oil Capacity: 0.36 liters

These specifications tell a story. The 59cc engine provides ample power, while the relatively low weight makes it manageable. The guide bar length is crucial; for oak, I recommend an 18″ or 20″ bar to handle larger diameter rounds.

Price Guide

The price of a Stihl MS 310 can vary depending on location, dealer promotions, and whether it’s new or used. As of late 2024, you can expect to find:

New: $400 – $600 (depending on the dealer and included accessories)
Used (Good Condition): $250 – $400

Always check local listings and compare prices from authorized Stihl dealers. Consider purchasing from a reputable dealer who offers servicing and warranty support.

Essential Features

Anti-Vibration System: This reduces fatigue by isolating the engine and cutting components from the handles.
Side-Access Chain Tensioner: This allows for easy chain adjustments without needing specialized tools.
Master Control Lever: This combines choke, start, run, and stop functions into a single lever for simplified operation.
Automatic Oiler: Ensures the chain and bar are properly lubricated during operation.

Maintenance is Key

The longevity and performance of your Stihl MS 310 depend heavily on regular maintenance.

Air Filter: Clean the air filter after every 5-10 hours of use. A clogged air filter reduces engine power and fuel efficiency.
Spark Plug: Replace the spark plug annually or as needed.
Fuel Filter: Replace the fuel filter annually.
Chain Sharpening: Sharpen the chain regularly (more on this later). A dull chain is dangerous and inefficient.
Bar Maintenance: Clean the bar groove and check for wear. Flip the bar regularly to ensure even wear.
Chain Oil: Use high-quality chain oil specifically designed for chainsaws.

Personal Experience: I once neglected to clean the air filter on my chainsaw after a particularly dusty cutting session. The engine started running rough, and I lost significant power. A quick air filter cleaning restored it to full performance. This simple task can save you a lot of headaches.

Part 2: Oak Firewood: A Deep Dive

Oak isn’t just oak. There are several species, each with slightly different characteristics.

Types of Oak for Firewood

Red Oak: Dries relatively quickly (compared to other oaks), but can be more challenging to split when green. Heat output is good.
White Oak: Denser than red oak, burns longer and hotter. More resistant to rot. Can be challenging to dry.
Black Oak: Similar to red oak, but generally considered slightly less desirable due to a higher resin content.
Live Oak: Extremely dense and burns incredibly hot. Very slow to dry. Found primarily in the Southern United States.

Data Insight: White oak generally has a higher BTU (British Thermal Unit) rating than red oak, meaning it releases more heat when burned. However, its longer drying time can be a disadvantage.

Green vs. Seasoned Wood

Green Wood: Freshly cut wood with a high moisture content. Difficult to burn, produces excessive smoke, and creosote buildup in chimneys.
Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been allowed to dry, reducing its moisture content. Burns efficiently, produces less smoke, and provides optimal heat.

Key Metric: The ideal moisture content for firewood is between 15% and 20%. You can use a moisture meter to check this.

The Drying Process

Oak is notorious for its long drying time.

Red Oak: Requires at least 6-12 months of seasoning.
White Oak: Requires 12-24 months of seasoning.

Factors Affecting Drying Time:

Climate: Hot, dry climates promote faster drying.
Stacking Method: Proper stacking (more on this later) is crucial for airflow.
Wood Size: Smaller pieces dry faster than larger rounds.
Sun Exposure: Direct sunlight accelerates drying.

Case Study: I once cut and stacked a large pile of white oak in early spring. Due to a particularly wet summer and poor stacking, the wood was still too green to burn effectively by the following winter. I learned the importance of proper stacking and patience.

Part 3: 5 Expert Tips for Oak Firewood Cutting with the Stihl MS 310

Now, let’s get to the heart of the matter: cutting oak firewood efficiently and safely.

Tip 1: Chain Sharpening: The Foundation of Efficiency

A sharp chain is paramount. A dull chain not only makes cutting more difficult but also increases the risk of kickback.

Frequency: Sharpen the chain every 1-2 hours of cutting, or whenever you notice a decrease in performance.
Tools: You’ll need a chainsaw file, a file guide, and a depth gauge tool.
Technique: Use consistent strokes, maintaining the correct angle and depth. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for your chain type.

Step-by-Step Sharpening Guide:

Secure the Chainsaw: Place the chainsaw in a vise or on a stable surface.
Identify the Cutting Angle: Use the file guide to determine the correct angle for your chain.
File Each Cutter: Using smooth, consistent strokes, file each cutter the same number of times. Pay attention to maintaining the correct angle.
Check the Depth Gauges: Use a depth gauge tool to ensure the depth gauges are at the correct height. File them down if necessary.
Test the Chain: After sharpening, test the chain on a piece of wood. It should cut smoothly and aggressively.

Safety Note: Always wear gloves when sharpening a chainsaw chain.

Tip 2: Felling Techniques: Where to Start

If you’re felling your own trees, proper technique is essential for safety and efficiency.

Assess the Tree: Before making any cuts, assess the tree for lean, wind direction, and any potential hazards (e.g., dead branches).
Clear the Area: Remove any obstacles from around the tree and create a clear escape path.
The Notch: Cut a notch on the side of the tree in the direction you want it to fall. The notch should be about one-third of the tree’s diameter.
The Back Cut: Make a back cut on the opposite side of the tree, slightly above the base of the notch. Leave a hinge of uncut wood to control the fall.
Wedges (Optional): If the tree is leaning in the wrong direction, use wedges to help guide its fall.

Important Considerations:

Never cut completely through the tree. Always leave a hinge to control the fall.
Be aware of the “barber chair” effect. This is when the tree splits upwards during the fall, which can be dangerous.
If you’re not comfortable felling trees, hire a professional.

Tip 3: Bucking Techniques: Cutting Rounds Safely

Bucking is the process of cutting the felled tree into manageable rounds.

Support the Log: Use logs or branches to support the log you’re cutting. This prevents the chain from pinching.
Cutting from Above: Cut partially through the log from the top, then roll it over and finish the cut from the bottom.
Cutting from Below: If the log is supported on both ends, you can cut it from below. Be careful to avoid pinching.
Use a Sawhorse: A sawhorse makes bucking safer and more efficient.

Safety Note: Always stand to the side of the chainsaw when bucking, never directly behind it.

Tip 4: Splitting Oak: Taming the Beast

Oak can be notoriously difficult to split, especially when green.

Hand Splitting: Use a splitting maul or axe. Choose a maul with a heavy head for maximum impact.
Hydraulic Log Splitter: This is the most efficient way to split oak. Choose a splitter with at least 20 tons of splitting force.
Wedges: Use wedges to split particularly difficult pieces.

Splitting Techniques:

Start with the Edges: If the round has any cracks or splits, start splitting along those lines.
Aim for the Center: If there are no obvious splits, aim for the center of the round.
Use a Tire: Place the round inside an old tire to keep the pieces from flying apart.

Personal Story: I remember struggling for hours to split a particularly knotty oak round with a maul. After finally giving up, I invested in a hydraulic log splitter. It was a game-changer. What used to take hours now takes minutes.

Tip 5: Stacking for Success: Maximizing Airflow

Proper stacking is crucial for drying oak firewood.

Elevate the Wood: Stack the wood on pallets or logs to keep it off the ground and promote airflow.
Stack in Rows: Stack the wood in rows, with gaps between the rows to allow for airflow.
Crisscross the Ends: Crisscross the ends of the rows to create a stable stack.
Cover the Top: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow. Leave the sides open for airflow.
Orientation: Orient the wood with the cut ends facing the prevailing wind for maximum drying.

Stacking Patterns:

Holz Hausen: A circular stack that promotes excellent airflow.
Linear Stack: A simple and efficient method for stacking wood in rows.

Data Point: A properly stacked pile of oak firewood can dry up to twice as fast as a poorly stacked pile.

Part 4: Safety First: Protecting Yourself

Chainsaw work is inherently dangerous. Always prioritize safety.

Essential Safety Gear

Chainsaw Chaps: Protect your legs from chainsaw cuts.
Eye Protection: Wear safety glasses or a face shield.
Hearing Protection: Wear earplugs or earmuffs.
Gloves: Wear work gloves with good grip.
Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and chainsaw cuts.
Helmet: Protect your head from falling branches.

Safe Operating Practices

Read the Manual: Familiarize yourself with the chainsaw’s operating instructions.
Inspect the Chainsaw: Before each use, inspect the chainsaw for any damage or wear.
Start the Chainsaw Safely: Start the chainsaw on the ground, away from your body.
Maintain a Firm Grip: Always maintain a firm grip on the chainsaw with both hands.
Avoid Kickback: Be aware of the risk of kickback and take steps to avoid it.
Never Cut Above Shoulder Height: Cutting above shoulder height is dangerous and can lead to loss of control.
Take Breaks: Avoid fatigue by taking frequent breaks.
Work with a Partner: If possible, work with a partner who can assist you in case of an emergency.

Personal Anecdote: I once witnessed a near-miss when a fellow woodcutter experienced kickback while felling a tree. Fortunately, he was wearing proper safety gear and escaped with only minor injuries. This incident reinforced the importance of always prioritizing safety.

Part 5: Troubleshooting Common Problems

Even with the best equipment and techniques, problems can arise.

Chainsaw Won’t Start

Check the Fuel: Make sure the fuel tank is full and the fuel is fresh.
Check the Spark Plug: Make sure the spark plug is clean and properly gapped.
Check the Air Filter: Make sure the air filter is clean.
Check the Choke: Make sure the choke is in the correct position.
Check the Fuel Filter: A clogged fuel filter can prevent the engine from starting.

Chainsaw Cuts Slowly

Sharpen the Chain: A dull chain is the most common cause of slow cutting.
Check the Chain Tension: Make sure the chain is properly tensioned.
Check the Bar: Make sure the bar is not worn or damaged.
Check the Wood: Make sure the wood is not too hard or knotty.

Chainsaw Kicks Back

Use Proper Technique: Avoid cutting with the tip of the bar.
Maintain a Firm Grip: Always maintain a firm grip on the chainsaw.
Sharpen the Chain: A dull chain increases the risk of kickback.
Avoid Pinching: Prevent the chain from pinching by supporting the log properly.

Chainsaw Overheats

Check the Air Filter: A clogged air filter can cause the engine to overheat.
Check the Cooling Fins: Make sure the cooling fins on the engine are clean.
Use the Correct Fuel Mixture: Use the fuel mixture recommended by the manufacturer.
Avoid Overloading the Chainsaw: Don’t try to cut wood that is too large or too hard.

Part 6: Beyond the Basics: Advanced Techniques

For those looking to take their firewood cutting skills to the next level, here are some advanced techniques.

Using a Winch

A winch can be used to pull trees down in a specific direction. This is useful when felling trees in tight spaces or when the tree is leaning in the wrong direction.

Choose the Right Winch: Select a winch with sufficient pulling power for the size of the tree.
Attach the Winch Cable: Attach the winch cable to the tree as high as possible.
Pull the Tree Down: Slowly and carefully pull the tree down in the desired direction.

Using a Skidder

A skidder is a heavy-duty machine used to drag logs out of the woods. This is useful for large-scale logging operations.

Choose the Right Skidder: Select a skidder with sufficient power and traction for the terrain.
Attach the Logs: Attach the logs to the skidder using chokers or grapples.
Drag the Logs Out: Drag the logs out of the woods to a landing area.

Using a Firewood Processor

A firewood processor is a machine that automatically cuts and splits firewood. This is useful for producing large quantities of firewood.

Choose the Right Processor: Select a processor with sufficient capacity for your needs.
Load the Logs: Load the logs into the processor.
Operate the Processor: Operate the processor according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Part 7: Environmental Considerations

It’s important to be mindful of the environmental impact of firewood cutting.

Sustainable Harvesting

Harvest Selectively: Avoid clear-cutting large areas of forest.
Leave Seed Trees: Leave a few mature trees to provide seeds for future generations.
Protect Water Sources: Avoid cutting trees near streams or rivers.
Control Erosion: Take steps to prevent erosion on logging roads and landings.

Burning Cleanly

Burn Seasoned Wood: Burning seasoned wood reduces smoke and emissions.
Use an Efficient Stove: Use a wood stove that is certified by the EPA.
Burn Hot Fires: Burn hot fires to reduce creosote buildup in chimneys.
Don’t Burn Trash: Never burn trash or other materials in your wood stove.

Respecting Wildlife

Avoid Disturbing Wildlife: Avoid cutting trees during nesting season.
Protect Habitat: Protect wildlife habitat by leaving snags and downed logs.
Be Aware of Endangered Species: Be aware of any endangered species in your area and take steps to protect them.

Part 8: Final Thoughts and Next Steps

Cutting oak firewood with a Stihl MS 310 is a rewarding experience. It requires knowledge, skill, and a commitment to safety. By following the tips and techniques outlined in this guide, you can efficiently and safely produce high-quality firewood for your home.

Practical Next Steps

Assess Your Needs: Determine how much firewood you need for the upcoming winter.
Acquire the Necessary Equipment: Make sure you have a Stihl MS 310 chainsaw, safety gear, splitting tools, and stacking materials.
Find a Source of Oak: Locate a source of oak trees, either on your own property or through a local supplier.
Start Cutting: Begin felling, bucking, splitting, and stacking your firewood.
Be Patient: Remember that oak requires a long drying time. Be patient and allow your firewood to season properly.

This journey into the world of oak firewood and the Stihl MS 310 is more than just a guide; it’s an invitation to connect with nature, learn new skills, and provide warmth and comfort for yourself and your loved ones. Happy cutting!