Stihl MS 251 Specs vs MS250 Comparison (5 Pro Firewood Tips)

Imagine you’re a seasoned chef, and chainsaws are your knives. A paring knife (like the MS 250) might be perfect for delicate tasks, while a slightly larger chef’s knife (the MS 251) could handle bigger jobs with a bit more power. Both can get the job done, but knowing their subtle differences can make all the difference in the final dish – or, in our case, a neatly stacked pile of firewood. Let’s dive into the nitty-gritty of the Stihl MS 251 vs. MS 250, and I’ll share some hard-earned firewood-making tips to help you become a true wood-splitting maestro.

Stihl MS 251 vs. MS 250: A Detailed Comparison for Firewood Enthusiasts

I’ve spent countless hours behind both the MS 250 and the MS 251, felling trees, bucking logs, and prepping firewood for the long winters. Believe me, I’ve learned a thing or two about what makes each saw tick, and where their strengths and weaknesses lie. This isn’t just a specs sheet comparison; it’s a real-world assessment based on years of experience.

Engine Power and Performance

The heart of any chainsaw is its engine. Here’s where we see some key distinctions:

• MS 250: Typically features a 45.4 cc engine, delivering around 2.3 kW (3.1 bhp) of power.
• MS 251: Boasts a slightly larger 45.6 cc engine, producing approximately 2.4 kW (3.2 bhp).

While the difference might seem negligible on paper, that extra tenth of a horsepower can make a noticeable difference when you’re consistently cutting through denser hardwoods. I’ve personally found that the MS 251 maintains its cutting speed better in tougher wood, reducing strain and overall cutting time.

Technical Insight: Engine displacement isn’t the only factor determining power. The design of the cylinder, piston, and exhaust system all contribute. Stihl’s engineering focuses on maximizing efficiency, meaning even small changes in displacement can lead to tangible performance gains.

Weight and Handling

Weight plays a crucial role, especially when you’re spending hours processing firewood.

• MS 250: Weighs approximately 4.6 kg (10.1 lbs) without the bar and chain.
• MS 251: Weighs about 4.8 kg (10.6 lbs) without the bar and chain.

That extra 0.2 kg might not sound like much, but it adds up over time. I remember one particularly grueling day processing oak logs with the MS 251. By the end of the day, that slight weight difference was definitely noticeable in my arms and back.

Personal Story: I once tried to lighten the load by removing the chain guard on my MS 250 (don’t do this!). While it did shave off a few grams, the increased risk of injury was absolutely not worth it. Safety first, always!

Bar Length and Cutting Capacity

The appropriate bar length depends on the size of the logs you’ll be cutting.

• MS 250: Typically comes with a 16-inch (40 cm) bar, but can accommodate up to an 18-inch bar in some regions.
• MS 251: Often equipped with an 18-inch (45 cm) bar, and can sometimes handle a 20-inch bar.

A longer bar allows you to tackle larger diameter logs without having to cut from both sides. However, a longer bar also requires more power. I’ve found that the MS 251 handles an 18-inch bar with greater ease than the MS 250, especially when cutting hardwoods.

Pro Tip: Don’t be tempted to put the longest possible bar on your saw. An over-extended bar can bog down the engine and reduce cutting efficiency. Choose a bar length that’s appropriate for the typical log sizes you’ll be working with.

Fuel Efficiency and Emissions

Modern chainsaws are designed to be more fuel-efficient and environmentally friendly.

• MS 250: Generally consumes slightly more fuel than the MS 251.
• MS 251: Incorporates Stihl’s 2-MIX engine technology, which improves fuel efficiency and reduces emissions.

In my experience, the MS 251 requires fewer refills during a full day of cutting. This not only saves money on fuel but also reduces downtime.

Data Point: Stihl’s 2-MIX engine can reduce fuel consumption by up to 20% compared to older, non-2-MIX engines. This translates to significant savings over the lifespan of the saw.

Anti-Vibration System

Chainsaw vibration can cause fatigue and long-term health problems. A good anti-vibration system is essential.

• MS 250: Features a basic anti-vibration system.
• MS 251: Incorporates an improved anti-vibration system with additional dampening elements.

I’ve definitely noticed a difference in vibration levels between the two saws. The MS 251 is noticeably smoother, which reduces fatigue and allows me to work for longer periods without discomfort.

Technical Detail: Anti-vibration systems typically use rubber or steel springs to isolate the engine and cutting components from the handles. The effectiveness of the system depends on the quality and design of these dampening elements.

Maintenance and Serviceability

Regular maintenance is crucial for keeping your chainsaw running smoothly.

• MS 250: Generally easier to maintain due to its simpler design.
• MS 251: May require slightly more specialized tools or knowledge for certain maintenance tasks.

However, both saws are relatively easy to service with basic tools and a bit of mechanical aptitude. I always recommend reading the owner’s manual and watching some online tutorials before attempting any major repairs.

Case Study: I once neglected to clean the air filter on my MS 250 after a particularly dusty day of cutting. The engine started running rough and eventually stalled. After cleaning the filter, the saw ran like new again. Lesson learned: regular maintenance is key!

Price Point

Price is always a factor to consider.

• MS 250: Typically priced lower than the MS 251.
• MS 251: Commands a slightly higher price due to its enhanced features and performance.

The price difference is usually not significant, but it’s worth considering your budget and how frequently you plan to use the saw.

Recommendation: If you’re on a tight budget and only need a chainsaw for occasional use, the MS 250 is a solid choice. However, if you plan to use the saw regularly for firewood production or other demanding tasks, the MS 251 is well worth the extra investment.

Summary Table: Stihl MS 251 vs MS 250

5 Pro Firewood Tips

Now that we’ve dissected the MS 251 and MS 250, let’s move on to the real meat of the matter: making firewood. Here are five pro tips I’ve learned over the years that will help you produce high-quality firewood efficiently and safely.

1. Wood Selection: Know Your Species

Not all wood is created equal. Different species have different burning characteristics, heat output, and drying times.

• Hardwoods: Oak, maple, ash, beech, and birch are all excellent choices for firewood. They burn hotter and longer than softwoods.
• Softwoods: Pine, fir, spruce, and cedar are easier to ignite but burn faster and produce more smoke.

Data Point: Oak typically has a heat output of around 28 million BTUs per cord, while pine produces around 20 million BTUs per cord.

Personal Experience: I once made the mistake of burning a load of freshly cut pine in my wood stove. The chimney quickly became coated with creosote, which is a fire hazard. Now I only burn well-seasoned hardwoods.

Actionable Advice: Learn to identify different tree species in your area. Focus on harvesting hardwoods for firewood. If you must burn softwoods, make sure they are thoroughly seasoned and burn them in a well-ventilated stove or fireplace.

2. Seasoning: The Key to Efficient Burning

Seasoning is the process of drying firewood to reduce its moisture content. Properly seasoned firewood burns hotter, cleaner, and produces less smoke.

• Ideal Moisture Content: Firewood should have a moisture content of 20% or less for optimal burning.
• Drying Time: Typically takes 6-12 months, depending on the species, climate, and stacking method.

Technical Detail: Freshly cut wood can have a moisture content of 50% or higher.

Measurement Tip: Use a wood moisture meter to accurately measure the moisture content of your firewood. These meters are relatively inexpensive and can save you a lot of headaches.

Best Practices:

• Split the wood: Splitting wood exposes more surface area, which accelerates the drying process.
• Stack it properly: Stack the wood in a single row with air gaps between the pieces. This allows for better air circulation.
• Elevate the stack: Place the wood on pallets or timbers to keep it off the ground and prevent moisture from wicking up from the soil.
• Cover the top: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp or sheet of metal to protect it from rain and snow. Leave the sides open for ventilation.
• Choose a sunny location: Locate the woodpile in a sunny, well-ventilated area.

3. Safe Cutting Techniques: Protect Yourself

Chainsaw operation can be dangerous if proper safety precautions are not followed.

• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Always wear a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, chainsaw chaps, and sturdy boots.
• Safe Cutting Practices: Use proper felling techniques, avoid cutting above your shoulders, and be aware of your surroundings.

Safety Standards: OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Administration) has specific regulations regarding chainsaw safety. Familiarize yourself with these regulations and follow them diligently.

Personal Story: I once witnessed a logger who wasn’t wearing chainsaw chaps accidentally cut his leg with a chainsaw. The chaps saved him from a serious injury. I’ve never forgotten that incident, and I always wear my chaps without fail.

Essential Tips:

• Maintain a firm grip: Keep both hands firmly on the chainsaw handles.
• Use a stable stance: Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart and your weight evenly distributed.
• Plan your escape route: Before felling a tree, clear a path behind you so you can quickly retreat if necessary.
• Be aware of kickback: Kickback is a sudden, uncontrolled movement of the chainsaw bar that can cause serious injury. Avoid cutting with the upper quadrant of the bar tip.
• Take breaks: Chainsaw operation can be physically demanding. Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue.

4. Log Splitting Methods: Manual vs. Mechanical

Splitting logs is an essential part of firewood production. There are two main methods: manual splitting and mechanical splitting.

• Manual Splitting: Using an axe or maul to split logs by hand.
• Mechanical Splitting: Using a hydraulic log splitter to split logs.

Manual Splitting:

• Pros: Inexpensive, good exercise, doesn’t require electricity or fuel.
• Cons: Labor-intensive, time-consuming, can be dangerous if not done properly.

Mechanical Splitting:

• Pros: Fast, efficient, reduces physical strain.
• Cons: Expensive, requires electricity or fuel, can be noisy.

Technical Specification: Log splitters are typically rated by the amount of force they can exert, measured in tons. A 20-ton log splitter is generally sufficient for splitting most firewood logs.

Choosing the Right Method:

• If you only need to split a small amount of firewood, manual splitting may be sufficient.
• If you need to split a large amount of firewood or have difficulty swinging an axe, a log splitter is a worthwhile investment.

My Approach: I personally use a combination of both methods. I use an axe to split smaller, easier-to-split logs, and I use a log splitter for larger, tougher logs. This allows me to save time and energy while still getting a good workout.

5. Stacking and Storage: Preserve Your Investment

Proper stacking and storage are essential for preserving the quality of your firewood.

• Stacking Methods: Linear rows, circular stacks, and crib stacks are all common methods.
• Storage Location: Choose a location that is dry, well-ventilated, and protected from the elements.

Best Practices:

• Stack the wood tightly: This will help prevent the wood from shifting or collapsing.
• Elevate the stack: Place the wood on pallets or timbers to keep it off the ground.
• Cover the top: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp or sheet of metal to protect it from rain and snow.
• Leave space for ventilation: Allow for air circulation around the stack to prevent mold and mildew growth.

Volume Measurement: Firewood is typically sold by the cord. A cord is a stack of wood that measures 4 feet high, 4 feet wide, and 8 feet long, for a total volume of 128 cubic feet.

Practical Tip: I like to stack my firewood in a linear row along the edge of my property. This makes it easy to access and allows for good air circulation. I also cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow.

Final Thoughts

Choosing between the Stihl MS 250 and MS 251 ultimately depends on your individual needs and priorities. Both are capable chainsaws that can get the job done, but the MS 251 offers slightly more power, improved fuel efficiency, and a better anti-vibration system. By following these five pro firewood tips, you can produce high-quality firewood efficiently and safely, regardless of which chainsaw you choose. Happy cutting! And remember, safety first!

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