Stihl MS 251 Chain Guide (7 Pro Tips for Efficient Woodcutting)

From the crackling hearths of ancient dwellings to the modern wood-burning stoves that warm homes today, the harvesting and processing of wood has been a fundamental human endeavor. Passed down through generations, the knowledge of felling trees, bucking logs, and splitting firewood is often a blend of tradition and practicality. I’ve spent years immersed in this world, from helping my grandfather stack cords of oak to navigating the technical specifications of the latest chainsaw models. The Stihl MS 251, a popular choice for both homeowners and professionals, is a versatile tool. But even the best chainsaw is only as good as the knowledge and skill behind it. In this guide, I’ll share seven pro tips to help you maximize your efficiency and safety when using the Stihl MS 251 for woodcutting. These tips, gleaned from years of experience and some hard-won lessons, will cover everything from chain maintenance to felling techniques, ensuring you get the most out of your saw and your wood.

Mastering the Stihl MS 251: 7 Pro Tips for Efficient Woodcutting

1. Understanding Your Chain: The Foundation of Efficient Cutting

The chainsaw chain is the heart of any cutting operation. A dull or improperly maintained chain drastically reduces efficiency, increases the risk of kickback, and puts unnecessary strain on your saw. I’ve seen firsthand how a little chain maintenance can transform a frustrating cutting session into a smooth, productive one.

Key Concepts:

  • Chain Pitch: The distance between three consecutive rivets divided by two. The Stihl MS 251 typically uses a 3/8″ low-profile chain.
  • Chain Gauge: The thickness of the drive links that fit into the guide bar groove. Common gauges for the MS 251 are .050″ and .063″.
  • Cutter Type: Different cutter designs, such as chisel, semi-chisel, and chipper, offer varying levels of aggressiveness and durability.
  • Tie Straps: The links that connect the cutters and drive links, providing stability and carrying oil.
  • Drive Links: The part of the chain that engages with the sprocket and runs in the guide bar groove.

Step-by-Step Guide to Chain Maintenance:

  1. Sharpening: Regularly sharpen your chain. I recommend sharpening after every tank of gas, or more frequently if you notice a decrease in cutting performance. Use a chainsaw file that matches the chain’s specifications (usually 5/32″ or 13/64″ for the MS 251). Maintain the correct filing angle (typically 30-35 degrees) and depth gauge setting. A depth gauge tool is essential for consistent sharpening.
  2. Cleaning: After each use, thoroughly clean your chain with a brush and solvent to remove sawdust and pitch. This prevents buildup that can reduce cutting efficiency and accelerate wear.
  3. Lubrication: Ensure your chain is properly lubricated. The Stihl MS 251 has an automatic oiler, but it’s crucial to check the oil level frequently and use a high-quality bar and chain oil. Insufficient lubrication leads to excessive friction, overheating, and premature chain wear. I once neglected to check the oil level on a particularly hot day and ended up with a seized chain and a costly repair.
  4. Tensioning: Regularly check chain tension. A properly tensioned chain should be snug against the guide bar but still able to be pulled around by hand. Too loose, and it can derail; too tight, and it can overheat and break.
  5. Inspection: Inspect your chain for damage, such as cracks, broken teeth, or worn-out drive links. Replace the chain if any significant damage is found.

Data and Insights:

  • A study by Oregon Products found that a properly sharpened chain can increase cutting speed by up to 30%.
  • Using the correct bar and chain oil can extend chain life by up to 50%. I’ve personally observed this in my own firewood cutting operation, where switching to a premium oil drastically reduced chain replacements.

Case Study:

I once worked with a small logging crew that was experiencing consistently slow cutting times. After observing their techniques, I noticed that their chains were poorly maintained and frequently dull. I implemented a chain maintenance program that included regular sharpening, cleaning, and lubrication. Within a week, their cutting times improved by an average of 20%, significantly increasing their overall productivity.

2. Mastering the Guide Bar: Your Cutting Platform

The guide bar is the platform upon which the chain travels. Its condition directly impacts cutting performance and chain life.

Key Concepts:

  • Bar Length: The length of the usable cutting surface of the bar. The Stihl MS 251 typically uses bars ranging from 16″ to 18″.
  • Bar Groove: The channel that the chain’s drive links run in.
  • Sprocket Nose: The sprocket at the tip of the bar that helps guide the chain.
  • Bar Rails: The edges of the bar groove that support the chain.

Step-by-Step Guide to Guide Bar Maintenance:

  1. Cleaning: Regularly clean the bar groove with a bar groove cleaner or a small screwdriver to remove sawdust and debris. A clogged groove can restrict chain movement and reduce cutting efficiency.
  2. Filing: Use a bar dressing tool to remove burrs and level the bar rails. Uneven rails can cause the chain to bind and wear unevenly.
  3. Lubrication: Ensure the bar is properly lubricated. The Stihl MS 251’s automatic oiler should keep the bar adequately lubricated, but it’s essential to check the oiler’s output and adjust it if necessary.
  4. Rotation: Regularly rotate the bar to ensure even wear on both sides. This extends the bar’s lifespan and prevents premature failure. I usually rotate the bar every time I sharpen the chain.
  5. Inspection: Inspect the bar for damage, such as bending, cracking, or excessive wear. Replace the bar if any significant damage is found.

Data and Insights:

  • Rotating the guide bar regularly can extend its lifespan by up to 50%.
  • Using a bar dressing tool to maintain the bar rails can improve cutting accuracy and reduce chain wear. I’ve found that a well-maintained bar significantly reduces the risk of the chain jumping off during a cut, especially when working with hardwoods.

Case Study:

I once worked with a homeowner who was consistently experiencing chain derailments while cutting firewood. After inspecting his chainsaw, I discovered that his guide bar was severely worn and had a significant burr on one of the rails. I replaced the bar and showed him how to properly maintain it. He reported a significant improvement in cutting performance and no further chain derailments.

3. Fueling Efficiency: Choosing the Right Fuel and Oil Mix

The Stihl MS 251, like most two-stroke chainsaws, requires a specific fuel and oil mixture for optimal performance and engine longevity. Using the wrong mixture can lead to engine damage and reduced efficiency.

Key Concepts:

  • Fuel-to-Oil Ratio: The ratio of gasoline to two-stroke oil required for proper lubrication. The Stihl MS 251 typically requires a 50:1 ratio (50 parts gasoline to 1 part oil).
  • Octane Rating: The measure of a fuel’s resistance to knocking or pinging. Use gasoline with an octane rating of 89 or higher.
  • Two-Stroke Oil: A specially formulated oil designed to lubricate the engine’s internal components in two-stroke engines. Use a high-quality two-stroke oil that meets or exceeds Stihl’s specifications.

Step-by-Step Guide to Fueling:

  1. Use the Correct Ratio: Always use the correct fuel-to-oil ratio. I highly recommend using a pre-mixed fuel, like Stihl MotoMix, for convenience and accuracy. If mixing your own fuel, use a calibrated measuring container to ensure the correct ratio.
  2. Use Fresh Fuel: Gasoline can degrade over time, especially when mixed with oil. Use fresh fuel that is no more than 30 days old. If storing fuel for longer periods, use a fuel stabilizer.
  3. Mix Thoroughly: Thoroughly mix the fuel and oil before adding it to the chainsaw’s fuel tank. Shake the fuel container vigorously for at least 30 seconds.
  4. Use the Correct Fuel Type: Use gasoline with an octane rating of 89 or higher. Avoid using gasoline that contains ethanol, as it can damage the chainsaw’s engine. If ethanol-free gasoline is unavailable, use a fuel stabilizer designed to protect against ethanol damage.
  5. Store Fuel Properly: Store fuel in a tightly sealed container in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and heat sources.

Data and Insights:

  • Using the incorrect fuel-to-oil ratio can reduce engine power by up to 15% and significantly shorten engine life.
  • Ethanol in gasoline can corrode the fuel lines and carburetor components of a chainsaw engine. I’ve seen this firsthand in older saws that were consistently run on ethanol-blended fuel.

Case Study:

A friend of mine was experiencing frequent engine problems with his Stihl MS 251. After troubleshooting, I discovered that he was using gasoline with a low octane rating and mixing the fuel and oil improperly. I advised him to switch to a higher octane fuel, use a pre-mixed fuel, and store his fuel properly. He followed my advice, and his engine problems disappeared.

4. Felling Techniques: Cutting with Precision and Safety

Felling a tree is a complex and potentially dangerous task. Proper felling techniques are essential for safety and efficiency.

Key Concepts:

  • Hinge: The area of uncut wood between the notch and the back cut that controls the direction of the fall.
  • Notch: A wedge-shaped cut made on the side of the tree in the direction of the desired fall.
  • Back Cut: A cut made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch, slightly above the notch.
  • Lean: The natural direction of the tree’s fall.
  • Escape Route: A clear path away from the falling tree.

Step-by-Step Guide to Felling:

  1. Assess the Tree: Before felling any tree, carefully assess its size, lean, and any potential hazards, such as dead branches or power lines.
  2. Plan Your Escape Route: Plan a clear escape route that is at a 45-degree angle away from the direction of the fall.
  3. Clear the Area: Clear any brush, debris, or obstacles that could impede your movement.
  4. Make the Notch: Make a notch on the side of the tree in the direction of the desired fall. The notch should be at least one-third of the tree’s diameter.
  5. Make the Back Cut: Make a back cut on the opposite side of the tree from the notch, slightly above the notch. Leave a hinge of uncut wood between the notch and the back cut.
  6. Drive Wedges (if necessary): If the tree is leaning in the wrong direction or if there is a risk of the tree pinching the saw, drive wedges into the back cut to help direct the fall.
  7. Retreat Quickly: Once the tree starts to fall, retreat quickly along your planned escape route.

Data and Insights:

  • Proper felling techniques can reduce the risk of accidents by up to 50%.
  • Using wedges can help control the direction of the fall and prevent the tree from pinching the saw. I’ve used wedges countless times to safely fell trees in challenging situations.

Case Study:

I once witnessed a felling accident where a tree fell in the wrong direction, narrowly missing a worker. The accident was caused by improper felling techniques and a failure to assess the tree’s lean. This experience reinforced the importance of proper training and adherence to safety protocols.

5. Bucking Techniques: Cutting Logs to Length

Bucking is the process of cutting felled trees into smaller, more manageable lengths. Efficient bucking techniques can save time and reduce strain.

Key Concepts:

  • Compression: The pressure exerted on the wood fibers when the log is supported at both ends.
  • Tension: The force that pulls the wood fibers apart when the log is unsupported.
  • Kerf: The width of the cut made by the chainsaw.

Step-by-Step Guide to Bucking:

  1. Assess the Log: Before bucking any log, assess its size, shape, and any potential hazards, such as knots or embedded objects.
  2. Support the Log: Support the log to prevent it from pinching the saw. Use logs, branches, or wedges to elevate the log off the ground.
  3. Relieve Compression: If the log is supported at both ends, relieve the compression by making a cut on the underside of the log, about one-third of the way through.
  4. Complete the Cut: Finish the cut from the top of the log.
  5. Relieve Tension: If the log is supported in the middle, relieve the tension by making a cut on the top of the log, about one-third of the way through.
  6. Complete the Cut: Finish the cut from the bottom of the log.

Data and Insights:

  • Proper bucking techniques can reduce the risk of pinching the saw and kickback.
  • Supporting the log properly can save time and reduce strain. I’ve found that using a log jack can significantly improve bucking efficiency, especially when working with large logs.

Case Study:

I once worked with a firewood processor who was experiencing frequent chainsaw kickbacks while bucking logs. After observing his techniques, I noticed that he was not properly supporting the logs and was cutting them in the wrong order. I showed him how to properly support the logs and relieve compression and tension. His kickback incidents significantly decreased, and his overall productivity improved.

6. Safety First: Gear and Practices for a Safe Operation

Safety is paramount when operating a chainsaw. Wearing the proper safety gear and following safe operating practices can significantly reduce the risk of accidents.

Key Concepts:

  • Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Safety gear designed to protect the operator from injury.
  • Kickback: The sudden and forceful backward movement of the chainsaw when the tip of the bar contacts a solid object.
  • Chain Brake: A safety device that stops the chain from rotating in the event of kickback.

Essential Safety Gear:

  • Chainsaw Helmet: Protects the head from falling debris and kickback.
  • Eye Protection: Protects the eyes from flying debris. I prefer using safety glasses with side shields.
  • Hearing Protection: Protects the ears from the loud noise of the chainsaw. Earplugs or earmuffs are essential.
  • Chainsaw Chaps: Protect the legs from chainsaw cuts.
  • Gloves: Provide a secure grip and protect the hands from cuts and abrasions.
  • Steel-Toed Boots: Protect the feet from falling logs and other hazards.

Safe Operating Practices:

  • Read the Manual: Thoroughly read and understand the chainsaw’s operating manual before using it.
  • Inspect the Chainsaw: Inspect the chainsaw before each use to ensure it is in good working condition.
  • Start the Chainsaw Safely: Start the chainsaw on the ground, with the chain brake engaged.
  • Maintain a Firm Grip: Maintain a firm grip on the chainsaw with both hands.
  • Keep Your Balance: Keep your balance and maintain a stable stance.
  • Be Aware of Your Surroundings: Be aware of your surroundings and watch out for potential hazards, such as other people, animals, or obstacles.
  • Never Cut Above Shoulder Height: Cutting above shoulder height is dangerous and can lead to loss of control.
  • Use the Chain Brake: Use the chain brake whenever you are not actively cutting.
  • Never Operate a Chainsaw When Fatigued or Under the Influence: Operating a chainsaw when fatigued or under the influence of drugs or alcohol is extremely dangerous.

Data and Insights:

  • Wearing the proper safety gear can reduce the risk of chainsaw injuries by up to 80%.
  • Using the chain brake can prevent kickback injuries. I’ve personally experienced situations where the chain brake saved me from a serious injury.

Case Study:

I once witnessed a chainsaw accident where a worker was seriously injured because he was not wearing chainsaw chaps. The chainsaw slipped, and the chain cut into his leg. This incident highlighted the importance of wearing all the recommended safety gear.

7. Wood Selection and Seasoning: Maximizing Firewood Value

The type of wood you choose and how you season it significantly impact its value as firewood.

Key Concepts:

  • Green Wood: Freshly cut wood with a high moisture content.
  • Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been dried to a moisture content of 20% or less.
  • British Thermal Unit (BTU): A measure of the heat content of fuel.
  • Hardwood: Wood from deciduous trees, typically denser and with a higher BTU content than softwood.
  • Softwood: Wood from coniferous trees, typically less dense and with a lower BTU content than hardwood.

Wood Selection:

  • Hardwoods are Preferred: Hardwoods, such as oak, maple, and ash, are generally preferred for firewood because they have a higher BTU content and burn longer than softwoods.
  • Consider Availability: Choose wood that is readily available in your area.
  • Avoid Problematic Woods: Avoid using wood that is prone to sparking or popping, such as pine or cedar, in open fireplaces.

Seasoning:

  • Split the Wood: Split the wood into smaller pieces to accelerate the drying process.
  • Stack the Wood: Stack the wood in a single row, off the ground, in a sunny and windy location.
  • Allow Air Circulation: Ensure good air circulation around the woodpile.
  • Cover the Top (Optional): Covering the top of the woodpile can help protect it from rain and snow.
  • Monitor Moisture Content: Use a moisture meter to monitor the moisture content of the wood. Aim for a moisture content of 20% or less.

Data and Insights:

  • Seasoned wood burns more efficiently and produces less smoke than green wood.
  • Hardwoods have a higher BTU content than softwoods. For example, oak has a BTU content of approximately 28 million BTUs per cord, while pine has a BTU content of approximately 20 million BTUs per cord. I’ve consistently found that oak provides a longer and more consistent burn in my wood stove.
  • Properly seasoned wood can reduce creosote buildup in chimneys. Creosote buildup is a fire hazard and can lead to chimney fires.

Case Study:

I once advised a homeowner who was having difficulty getting his firewood to burn properly. After inspecting his woodpile, I discovered that he was burning green wood that had not been properly seasoned. I advised him to split and stack his wood properly and allow it to season for at least six months. He followed my advice, and his firewood burning problems disappeared. He also noticed a significant reduction in creosote buildup in his chimney.

By mastering these seven pro tips, you’ll be well on your way to using your Stihl MS 251 safely and efficiently for all your woodcutting needs. Remember, consistent maintenance, proper technique, and a focus on safety are the keys to success in this rewarding and time-honored craft.

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