Stihl MS 250 Chainsaw Reviews: Hardwood Thinning Tips (5 Pro Tricks)

As someone who’s spent countless hours in the woods, I know that even the best chainsaw will show wear and tear with heavy use. In this guide, I’ll share my insights and pro tips on using the Stihl MS 250 for hardwood thinning, gleaned from years of hands-on experience. I’ll cover everything from chainsaw maintenance to advanced cutting techniques, ensuring you get the most out of your MS 250 while staying safe and efficient.

Stihl MS 250 Chainsaw: A Workhorse for Hardwood Thinning

The Stihl MS 250 is a popular choice for homeowners and professionals alike, thanks to its balance of power, weight, and affordability. I’ve personally used the MS 250 for years, felling small-to-medium sized trees, limbing, and bucking firewood. Its reliability and ease of use have made it a staple in my toolkit.

Understanding the MS 250’s Capabilities

Before diving into hardwood thinning, it’s important to understand the MS 250’s specifications and limitations. This saw typically comes with a 16-inch or 18-inch bar, powered by a 45.4 cc engine. In my experience, the 16-inch bar is ideal for most thinning tasks, providing better maneuverability in tight spaces. Here’s a quick overview of the MS 250’s key specs:

• Engine Displacement: 45.4 cc
• Power Output: 2.3 kW (3.1 bhp)
• Weight: 4.6 kg (10.1 lbs) without fuel, bar, and chain
• Fuel Tank Capacity: 0.47 liters (15.9 oz)
• Oil Tank Capacity: 0.20 liters (6.8 oz)
• Recommended Bar Length: 16-18 inches

Knowing these specs helps you understand what the MS 250 can handle and avoid pushing it beyond its limits. Remember, a well-maintained MS 250 can tackle hardwoods like oak, maple, and ash, but it’s not designed for large-diameter trees.

Maintaining Your MS 250 for Optimal Performance

Proper maintenance is key to ensuring your MS 250 performs reliably and lasts for years. I can’t stress this enough: a neglected chainsaw is a dangerous chainsaw. Here’s a maintenance checklist I follow religiously:

1. Sharpen the Chain: A sharp chain cuts faster, cleaner, and safer. I sharpen my chain every few tanks of fuel, or more often if I hit dirt or rocks.
2. Check Chain Tension: Proper chain tension prevents the chain from derailing and reduces wear on the bar and chain.
3. Clean the Air Filter: A clean air filter ensures the engine gets enough air for optimal combustion. I clean mine after every use.
4. Inspect the Spark Plug: A faulty spark plug can cause starting problems and reduced performance. I replace mine annually.
5. Lubricate the Bar and Chain: Proper lubrication reduces friction and wear on the bar and chain. I use a high-quality bar and chain oil.
6. Check the Fuel and Oil Levels: Always start with full tanks of fuel and oil.
7. Clean the Saw: Remove sawdust and debris from the saw after each use.
8. Inspect the Safety Features: Ensure the chain brake, throttle lock, and kill switch are functioning properly.

By following this maintenance routine, you’ll keep your MS 250 running smoothly and safely.

Takeaway: Regular maintenance is crucial for optimal performance and safety.

5 Pro Tricks for Hardwood Thinning with the Stihl MS 250

Hardwood thinning involves selectively removing trees to improve the health and growth of the remaining stand. It’s a critical part of forest management, and the MS 250 can be a valuable tool for this task. Here are five pro tricks I’ve learned over the years:

Trick #1: Mastering the Bore Cut

The bore cut is an advanced technique that allows you to fell trees with greater precision and control. It’s particularly useful when thinning hardwoods, as it helps prevent the tree from barber chairing (splitting up the trunk) or kicking back.

How to Perform a Bore Cut:

1. Make a Face Cut: Start by making a standard face cut, consisting of a horizontal cut and an angled cut that meet to form a notch. The notch should be about one-third of the tree’s diameter.
2. Insert the Saw: Carefully insert the tip of the saw bar into the tree behind the notch. Use a controlled, plunging motion.
3. Bore Through: Once the tip of the bar is through the tree, pivot the saw to create a bore cut that extends towards the back of the tree. Leave a hinge of wood to control the fall.
4. Make the Back Cut: Make the back cut, leaving a small amount of wood (the holding wood) to act as a hinge.
5. Fell the Tree: Use wedges or a felling lever to gently push the tree over in the desired direction.

Why the Bore Cut Works:

The bore cut allows you to control the direction of the fall more precisely. It also helps prevent the tree from splitting or kicking back, which can be dangerous. By leaving a hinge of wood, you can guide the tree as it falls, ensuring it lands where you want it to.

Real-World Example:

I once used the bore cut to fell a leaning oak tree that was threatening a nearby power line. The bore cut allowed me to control the fall and avoid damaging the power line. Without it, the situation could have been disastrous.

Takeaway: The bore cut is an advanced technique that provides greater control and safety when felling trees.

Trick #2: Utilizing Wedges for Directional Felling

Wedges are essential tools for directional felling, especially when dealing with hardwoods that tend to lean or have uneven weight distribution. I always carry a few wedges with me when thinning hardwoods, as they can make the job much safer and easier.

Types of Wedges:

• Plastic Wedges: Lightweight and durable, plastic wedges are ideal for general-purpose felling.
• Aluminum Wedges: Stronger than plastic wedges, aluminum wedges are better suited for larger trees.
• Steel Wedges: The strongest type of wedge, steel wedges are used for the most demanding felling tasks.

How to Use Wedges:

1. Make the Face Cut: Start by making a standard face cut.
2. Make the Back Cut: Make the back cut, leaving a small amount of wood (the holding wood) to act as a hinge.
3. Insert the Wedge: Insert a wedge into the back cut, behind the holding wood.
4. Drive the Wedge: Use a hammer or axe to drive the wedge into the back cut, gradually pushing the tree over in the desired direction.
5. Fell the Tree: Continue driving the wedge until the tree falls.

Why Wedges Work:

Wedges provide mechanical advantage, allowing you to redirect the force of gravity and control the direction of the fall. They also prevent the saw from getting pinched in the back cut, which can be dangerous.

Case Study:

In a recent thinning project, I encountered a large maple tree that was leaning heavily to one side. By using two wedges, I was able to safely fell the tree in the opposite direction, preventing it from damaging a nearby building.

Takeaway: Wedges are essential tools for directional felling and preventing saw pinching.

Trick #3: Limbing Techniques for Efficient Wood Processing

Limbing is the process of removing branches from a felled tree. It can be a time-consuming and dangerous task if not done properly. I’ve developed a few limbing techniques over the years that have helped me become more efficient and safe.

Limbing Techniques:

1. Work from the Base to the Tip: Start limbing at the base of the tree and work your way towards the tip. This prevents you from having to step over branches and reduces the risk of tripping.
2. Use the Tree as a Shield: Position yourself on the uphill side of the tree, using the trunk as a shield against rolling logs or falling branches.
3. Cut on the Compression Side: When limbing branches that are under compression, cut on the compression side first. This prevents the branch from pinching the saw.
4. Use a Limbing Axe: A limbing axe can be used to quickly remove small branches.

Safety Considerations:

• Wear Proper PPE: Always wear a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, and gloves when limbing.
• Be Aware of Your Surroundings: Watch out for rolling logs, falling branches, and other hazards.
• Take Breaks: Limbing can be physically demanding. Take breaks to avoid fatigue.

Personal Experience:

I once witnessed a logger who was seriously injured when a branch he was limbing sprung back and struck him in the face. This incident reinforced the importance of using proper limbing techniques and wearing appropriate PPE.

Takeaway: Efficient limbing techniques can save time and reduce the risk of injury.

Trick #4: Bucking Techniques for Optimal Firewood Production

Bucking is the process of cutting a felled tree into shorter lengths for firewood or other purposes. It’s another critical step in wood processing, and the MS 250 is well-suited for this task.

Bucking Techniques:

1. Measure and Mark: Use a measuring tape and marker to mark the desired length of the firewood. I typically cut my firewood into 16-inch lengths, but you can adjust this to suit your needs.
2. Support the Log: Use logs or rocks to support the log you’re bucking. This prevents the saw from pinching and makes it easier to cut straight.
3. Cut on the Tension Side: When bucking a log that is under tension, cut on the tension side first. This prevents the log from splitting or pinching the saw.
4. Use a Saw Buck: A saw buck is a simple tool that holds the log in place while you’re bucking it. This makes the job safer and easier.

Common Mistakes to Avoid:

• Cutting on Uneven Ground: Cutting on uneven ground can be dangerous, as the log can roll or shift unexpectedly.
• Not Supporting the Log: Not supporting the log can cause the saw to pinch and make it difficult to cut straight.
• Cutting Too Quickly: Cutting too quickly can be dangerous, as you can lose control of the saw.

Real-World Application:

I recently used the MS 250 to buck a large oak tree into firewood. By using a saw buck and following the bucking techniques outlined above, I was able to process the tree safely and efficiently.

Takeaway: Proper bucking techniques are essential for producing high-quality firewood safely and efficiently.

Trick #5: Sharpening and Maintaining Your Chain in the Field

A dull chain is not only inefficient but also dangerous. I always carry a chainsaw sharpening kit with me when working in the field, so I can sharpen my chain whenever necessary.

Chainsaw Sharpening Kit:

• File Guide: A file guide helps you maintain the correct filing angle and depth.
• Round File: A round file is used to sharpen the cutting teeth of the chain.
• Flat File: A flat file is used to lower the depth gauges.
• Depth Gauge Tool: A depth gauge tool is used to measure the depth gauges.
• Chain Vise: A chain vise holds the chain in place while you’re sharpening it.

Sharpening Procedure:

1. Secure the Chain: Secure the chain in a chain vise or use the saw’s chain brake to hold it in place.
2. File the Cutting Teeth: Use the round file and file guide to sharpen the cutting teeth of the chain. Maintain the correct filing angle and depth.
3. Lower the Depth Gauges: Use the flat file and depth gauge tool to lower the depth gauges. The depth gauges should be slightly lower than the cutting teeth.
4. Check the Chain: Check the chain to ensure that all of the cutting teeth are sharp and the depth gauges are properly set.

Tips for Maintaining Your Chain:

• Clean the Chain: Clean the chain regularly to remove sawdust and debris.
• Lubricate the Chain: Lubricate the chain with bar and chain oil.
• Inspect the Chain: Inspect the chain for damage, such as cracks or broken teeth.
• Replace the Chain: Replace the chain when it becomes worn or damaged.

Personal Story:

I once spent an entire day trying to fell a tree with a dull chain. It was a frustrating and exhausting experience. I learned my lesson that day and have always made sure to keep my chain sharp ever since.

Takeaway: Sharpening and maintaining your chain in the field is essential for efficient and safe chainsaw operation.

Choosing the Right Safety Gear

No discussion about chainsaw use is complete without emphasizing the importance of safety gear. I never start my chainsaw without wearing the following:

• Helmet: Protects your head from falling branches and other debris.
• Eye Protection: Protects your eyes from sawdust and flying debris.
• Hearing Protection: Protects your ears from the loud noise of the chainsaw.
• Gloves: Protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
• Chainsaw Chaps: Protect your legs from chainsaw cuts.
• Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and other hazards.

I know it can be tempting to skip the safety gear, especially on a hot day, but it’s not worth the risk. A chainsaw is a powerful tool, and accidents can happen in an instant.

Conclusion: Mastering Hardwood Thinning with the Stihl MS 250

The Stihl MS 250 is a versatile and reliable chainsaw that can be used effectively for hardwood thinning. By understanding the saw’s capabilities, maintaining it properly, and using the pro tricks I’ve shared, you can improve your efficiency, safety, and overall success in the woods. Remember to always prioritize safety and wear appropriate PPE. With practice and patience, you’ll become a skilled chainsaw operator and a valuable asset in any hardwood thinning project. Now get out there and put these tips to use!

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