Stihl MS 250 Bar Options Explained (5 Pro Tips For Optimal Cuts)

Stihl MS 250 Bar Options Explained: 5 Pro Tips for Optimal Cuts

As a seasoned logger with over two decades of experience felling trees and processing wood in the rugged terrain of the Pacific Northwest, I’ve come to rely heavily on the Stihl MS 250. It’s a workhorse of a chainsaw, perfectly suited for a variety of tasks, from limbing and bucking to felling smaller trees. But even the best chainsaw is only as good as its bar and chain. Choosing the right bar for your MS 250 is crucial for maximizing its performance, ensuring safety, and extending its lifespan. In this guide, I’ll share my insights on Stihl MS 250 bar options, along with five pro tips to help you make optimal cuts every time.

Understanding the Importance of Bar Selection

The guide bar is the backbone of your chainsaw. It guides the chain, supports it during cutting, and plays a critical role in determining the chainsaw’s cutting capacity and efficiency. Selecting the wrong bar can lead to several problems:

Reduced cutting speed: An improperly sized or designed bar can bog down your chainsaw, making cuts slower and more laborious.
Increased wear and tear: Using a bar that’s too long or too short can put undue stress on the chainsaw’s engine and components, leading to premature wear and tear.
Kickback: An incompatible bar can increase the risk of kickback, a dangerous phenomenon where the chainsaw suddenly jumps back towards the operator.
Poor cut quality: A damaged or worn bar can produce rough, uneven cuts, reducing the quality of your firewood or lumber.

Stihl MS 250 Bar Length Options

The Stihl MS 250 is typically compatible with bar lengths ranging from 16 inches to 20 inches. Here’s a breakdown of each option:

16-inch bar: This is the most common and versatile option for the MS 250. It provides a good balance of maneuverability and cutting capacity, making it ideal for limbing, bucking smaller logs, and general-purpose cutting.
18-inch bar: This bar offers slightly more reach and cutting capacity than the 16-inch bar. It’s a good choice for felling trees up to 14 inches in diameter and bucking larger logs.
20-inch bar: This is the longest bar that I recommend for the MS 250. While it provides the greatest reach and cutting capacity, it can also bog down the chainsaw if you’re cutting hardwoods or pushing it too hard. I generally reserve this bar for felling larger trees and processing thick logs.

My personal preference: I find the 18-inch bar to be the sweet spot for my MS 250. It offers a good balance of power and maneuverability for most of the tasks I encounter.

Stihl MS 250 Bar Types

Stihl offers several different types of bars for the MS 250, each designed for specific applications. Here’s an overview of the most common types:

Rollomatic E: This is the standard bar that typically comes with the MS 250. It’s a durable, general-purpose bar that’s suitable for a wide range of cutting tasks. It features a replaceable sprocket nose, which helps to reduce friction and wear on the chain.
Rollomatic ES Light: This bar is similar to the Rollomatic E, but it’s made from a lighter material, making it easier to handle and maneuver. It’s a good choice for users who prioritize weight reduction.
Duromatic E: This is a heavy-duty bar designed for professional users who demand maximum durability and performance. It features a hardened steel body and a replaceable sprocket nose. This is what I use when I’m doing a lot of hardwood cutting.
** carving bars:** These are specialty bars designed for carving intricate designs into wood. They are typically shorter and narrower than standard bars and feature a specialized chain.

Choosing the right bar type: For most users, the Rollomatic E or Rollomatic ES Light will be sufficient. If you’re a professional logger or firewood producer, or if you frequently cut hardwoods, the Duromatic E is a worthwhile investment.

Pro Tip #1: Consider the Wood Type

The type of wood you’re cutting should influence your bar selection. Softwoods like pine and fir are easier to cut and require less power than hardwoods like oak and maple.

Softwoods: For softwoods, a 16-inch or 18-inch Rollomatic E bar will generally suffice.
Hardwoods: For hardwoods, I recommend using an 18-inch or 20-inch Duromatic E bar. The extra durability and power will help you cut through dense wood more efficiently.

My experience: I once tried to cut a large oak log with a 16-inch Rollomatic E bar, and it was a struggle. The chainsaw bogged down repeatedly, and the bar got excessively hot. After switching to an 18-inch Duromatic E bar, the cutting process became much smoother and more efficient.

Make sure you’re using a chain that’s compatible with your bar and the type of wood you’re cutting.

Chain pitch: The chain pitch is the distance between the rivets on the chain. The MS 250 typically uses a chain with a pitch of .325 inches.
Chain gauge: The chain gauge is the thickness of the drive links that fit into the bar groove. The MS 250 typically uses a chain with a gauge of .063 inches.
Chain type: There are several different types of chainsaw chains, each designed for specific applications.
- Full chisel chains: These chains have aggressive cutting teeth and are ideal for cutting softwoods quickly. However, they dull more easily than other types of chains.
- Semi-chisel chains: These chains have less aggressive cutting teeth than full chisel chains but are more durable and hold their edge longer. They are a good all-around choice for cutting both softwoods and hardwoods.
- Low-kickback chains: These chains are designed to reduce the risk of kickback. They are a good choice for inexperienced users or those who are concerned about safety.

My recommendation: For most users, a semi-chisel chain with a .325-inch pitch and a .063-inch gauge is a good all-around choice for the MS 250.

Pro Tip #3: Maintain Your Bar and Chain

Proper maintenance is essential for extending the life of your bar and chain and ensuring optimal cutting performance.

Sharpen your chain regularly: A dull chain will make cutting more difficult and increase the risk of kickback. Sharpen your chain every few hours of use, or whenever you notice it’s not cutting as well as it should. I use a handheld file and a sharpening guide to keep my chain sharp.
Clean your bar regularly: Sawdust and debris can accumulate in the bar groove, reducing the chain’s efficiency and increasing wear and tear. Clean your bar regularly with a wire brush and compressed air.
Lubricate your bar and chain: Proper lubrication is essential for reducing friction and wear on the bar and chain. Use a high-quality bar and chain oil and check the oil level frequently.
Check the bar for wear: Over time, the bar rails can wear down, reducing the chain’s stability and increasing the risk of derailment. Check the bar rails regularly for wear and replace the bar when necessary.
Flip your bar regularly: Flipping your bar end-for-end will even out wear and extend its lifespan. I recommend flipping your bar every time you sharpen your chain.

My maintenance routine: I sharpen my chain every two to three tanks of gas, clean my bar after each use, and check the bar rails for wear every month. I also flip my bar every time I sharpen my chain.

Pro Tip #4: Adjust Chain Tension Properly

Proper chain tension is crucial for safe and efficient cutting. If the chain is too loose, it can derail from the bar, causing damage to the chainsaw and potentially injuring the operator. If the chain is too tight, it can overheat and break.

Checking chain tension: To check chain tension, lift the chain away from the bar in the middle. The chain should pull away slightly, but the drive links should remain in the bar groove.
Adjusting chain tension: To adjust chain tension, loosen the bar nuts and turn the tensioning screw until the chain is properly tensioned. Then, tighten the bar nuts securely.

My method: I always check chain tension before starting my chainsaw and adjust it as needed throughout the day. I prefer to err on the side of slightly too loose rather than too tight.

Pro Tip #5: Use Proper Cutting Techniques

Even with the right bar and chain, poor cutting techniques can lead to inefficient cutting, increased wear and tear, and even injury.

Use the correct cutting angle: When felling trees, use a proper felling notch to control the direction of the fall. When bucking logs, use a combination of top and bottom cuts to prevent pinching.
Avoid forcing the chainsaw: Let the chain do the work. Don’t force the chainsaw through the wood, as this can bog down the engine and increase wear and tear.
Keep the bar buried: Keep the bar buried in the wood as much as possible to prevent kickback.
Be aware of your surroundings: Always be aware of your surroundings and watch out for hazards such as branches, rocks, and power lines.
Wear appropriate safety gear: Always wear appropriate safety gear, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chaps.

My advice: I always take my time and focus on using proper cutting techniques. It may take a little longer, but it’s safer and more efficient in the long run. I also make sure to take breaks to avoid fatigue, which can lead to mistakes. I’ve seen too many injuries in the woods to take safety lightly.

Understanding Bar and Chain Terminology

Navigating the world of chainsaw bars and chains can be confusing, especially with all the technical jargon. Here’s a glossary of common terms to help you understand the basics:

Bar Length: The usable cutting length of the guide bar, measured from the tip to where it enters the chainsaw body.
Chain Pitch: The distance between any three consecutive rivets on the chain, divided by two. Common pitches are .325″, 3/8″, and .404″.
Chain Gauge: The thickness of the drive links that fit into the guide bar groove. Common gauges are .050″, .058″, and .063″.
Drive Links: The part of the chain that fits into the guide bar groove and is driven by the chainsaw’s sprocket.
Cutting Teeth (Cutters): The sharp part of the chain that does the actual cutting.
Rivet: The metal pin that holds the chain links together.
Sprocket Nose: A replaceable, rotating tip on some guide bars that reduces friction and wear.
Kickback: The sudden and dangerous backward motion of the chainsaw that can occur when the tip of the bar contacts a solid object or when the wood pinches the chain.
Bar Groove: The slot in the guide bar that the chain drive links run in.
Tie Straps: The links that connect the drive links and cutters on a chainsaw chain.
Depth Gauge (Raker): The small projection in front of each cutter that controls the depth of the cut.

Case Study: Optimizing Firewood Production with the MS 250

I once worked with a small firewood producer who was struggling to keep up with demand. He was using an MS 250 with a 16-inch Rollomatic E bar and a dull chain. His production rate was only about one cord of firewood per day.

After assessing his operation, I recommended the following changes:

Upgrade to an 18-inch Duromatic E bar for increased durability and cutting capacity.
Switch to a semi-chisel chain for better all-around performance.
Implement a regular chain sharpening schedule.
Use proper cutting techniques to avoid forcing the chainsaw.

Within a week, his production rate had increased to two cords of firewood per day. He was also experiencing less fatigue and fewer chainsaw breakdowns. This case study demonstrates the importance of choosing the right bar and chain and using proper maintenance and cutting techniques.

Troubleshooting Common Bar and Chain Problems

Even with proper care and maintenance, you may encounter problems with your bar and chain. Here are some common issues and how to troubleshoot them:

Chain dulls quickly: This could be caused by cutting dirty wood, using the wrong type of chain, or improper sharpening. Clean the wood before cutting, use a semi-chisel chain for general-purpose cutting, and sharpen the chain regularly.
Chain derails frequently: This could be caused by a loose chain, a worn bar, or improper chain tension. Adjust the chain tension, check the bar for wear, and replace the bar if necessary.
Chainsaw bogs down: This could be caused by a dull chain, a clogged air filter, or a faulty spark plug. Sharpen the chain, clean the air filter, and replace the spark plug.
Bar gets excessively hot: This could be caused by insufficient lubrication, a dull chain, or forcing the chainsaw through the wood. Check the oil level, sharpen the chain, and avoid forcing the chainsaw.
Uneven cuts: This could be caused by a bent bar, a dull chain, or improper cutting techniques. Check the bar for straightness, sharpen the chain, and use proper cutting techniques.

Safety First: Essential Protective Gear

Operating a chainsaw involves inherent risks. Always wear the appropriate safety gear to minimize the risk of injury:

Helmet: Protects your head from falling branches and debris.
Eye Protection: Safety glasses or a face shield protect your eyes from flying wood chips and sawdust.
Hearing Protection: Earplugs or earmuffs protect your hearing from the loud noise of the chainsaw.
Gloves: Protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
Chainsaw Chaps: Provide crucial protection for your legs in case of accidental chainsaw contact.
Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and other hazards.

The Environmental Impact of Logging and Firewood Production

As someone who has spent my life working in the woods, I’m keenly aware of the environmental impact of logging and firewood production. It’s crucial to practice sustainable forestry practices to protect our forests for future generations.

Selective Logging: Choose selective logging over clear-cutting to minimize habitat destruction and soil erosion.
Reforestation: Plant new trees to replace those that are harvested.
Proper Waste Disposal: Dispose of chainsaw oil and other hazardous materials properly.
Minimize Soil Disturbance: Avoid operating heavy machinery in wet conditions to minimize soil compaction and erosion.
Respect Wildlife: Be mindful of wildlife and their habitats. Avoid disturbing nesting birds or other animals.

Advanced Techniques for Firewood Preparation

Once you’ve felled and bucked your trees, you’ll need to split and season the wood before it’s ready to burn. Here are some advanced techniques for firewood preparation:

Hydraulic Log Splitters: Hydraulic log splitters can make splitting large logs much easier and faster. Choose a log splitter with sufficient tonnage for the size of logs you’ll be splitting.
Wood Drying Kilns: Wood drying kilns can significantly reduce the drying time for firewood. This is especially useful for commercial firewood producers.
Moisture Meters: Use a moisture meter to ensure that your firewood is properly seasoned before burning. The ideal moisture content for firewood is between 15% and 20%.
Stacking Techniques: Proper stacking techniques can improve air circulation and speed up the drying process. Stack your firewood in a single row, with the bark facing up.

Understanding Timber Grading

If you’re planning to sell your logs or lumber, it’s important to understand timber grading. Timber grading is the process of evaluating the quality of logs or lumber based on factors such as size, species, and defects.

Grading Rules: Timber grading is governed by specific rules and standards that vary depending on the region and the intended use of the wood.
Log Scaling: Log scaling is the process of measuring the volume of logs. There are several different log scaling methods, each with its own set of rules and procedures.
Lumber Grading: Lumber grading is the process of evaluating the quality of sawn lumber. Lumber is graded based on factors such as knot size, wane, and grain orientation.

The Future of Logging and Wood Processing

The logging and wood processing industries are constantly evolving. New technologies and sustainable practices are emerging to improve efficiency and minimize environmental impact.

Robotics and Automation: Robotics and automation are being used to automate tasks such as log sorting, lumber stacking, and firewood processing.
Precision Forestry: Precision forestry uses technology such as GPS and remote sensing to optimize forest management practices.
Bioenergy: Wood is increasingly being used as a source of bioenergy. Wood pellets and wood chips are used to heat homes and businesses.
Sustainable Forestry Certification: Sustainable forestry certification programs promote responsible forest management practices.

The Economics of Firewood Production

Firewood production can be a profitable business, but it’s important to understand the economics involved.

Costs: The costs of firewood production include the cost of the wood, the cost of equipment, and the cost of labor.
Revenue: The revenue from firewood production comes from the sale of firewood.
Profit Margin: The profit margin for firewood production is the difference between the revenue and the costs.
Market Research: Before starting a firewood business, it’s important to conduct market research to determine the demand for firewood in your area.

Conclusion: Mastering the MS 250 for Optimal Performance

Choosing the right bar for your Stihl MS 250 is essential for maximizing its performance, ensuring safety, and extending its lifespan. By considering the wood type, matching the chain to the bar, maintaining your bar and chain, adjusting chain tension properly, and using proper cutting techniques, you can achieve optimal cuts every time. Remember to prioritize safety and practice sustainable forestry practices to protect our forests for future generations. With the right knowledge and skills, you can master the MS 250 and tackle any wood processing task with confidence.

Stihl MS 250 Bar Options Explained (5 Pro Tips for Optimal Cuts)