Stihl MS 250 20 Inch Bar Guide (5 Pro Tips For Optimal Cutting)

Ever wondered why some firewood burns like a dream while others just smolder and sulk? Or why some cuts with your chainsaw feel effortless while others are a wrestling match?

As someone who’s spent countless hours in the woods, felling trees, bucking logs, and splitting firewood, I can tell you firsthand that mastering the art of chainsaw operation is a journey, not a destination. And a crucial part of that journey is understanding your equipment, particularly the guide bar.

The user intent behind searching for a “Stihl MS 250 20 Inch Bar Guide (5 Pro Tips for Optimal Cutting)” is clear: you want to get the most out of your chainsaw. You’re looking for practical advice, actionable tips, and perhaps a deeper understanding of how the bar interacts with the wood, the chain, and the overall performance of your saw.

This isn’t just about making clean cuts; it’s about safety, efficiency, and prolonging the life of your equipment. It’s about turning a potentially frustrating task into a satisfying and productive endeavor.

So, let’s dive in. I’m going to share five pro tips, but we’ll go beyond the surface level. We’ll delve into the “why” behind each tip, explore the science of wood, and uncover the secrets to optimal cutting with your Stihl MS 250.

Why the Stihl MS 250 and a 20-Inch Bar?

Before we get to the tips, let’s quickly address why the Stihl MS 250 is such a popular choice, especially with a 20-inch bar. The MS 250 is known for its balance of power, weight, and reliability. It’s a versatile saw that can handle a wide range of tasks, from felling small to medium-sized trees to bucking firewood.

The 20-inch bar extends that versatility, allowing you to tackle larger diameter logs. However, it also demands a bit more finesse and understanding. A longer bar means more potential for pinching, kickback, and inefficient cutting if not used correctly.

Wood Science: Understanding Your Material

You can’t master chainsaw operation without understanding the material you’re cutting: wood. Wood is a complex, organic material with varying densities, moisture content, and grain patterns. These factors significantly impact how your chainsaw performs.

Hardwood vs. Softwood: Hardwoods (like oak, maple, and hickory) are denser and generally harder to cut than softwoods (like pine, fir, and cedar). This means you’ll need a sharper chain and a more deliberate approach when cutting hardwoods. According to the U.S. Forest Service, hardwoods typically have a density range of 35 to 75 pounds per cubic foot, while softwoods range from 20 to 40 pounds per cubic foot.
Moisture Content: Freshly cut wood (green wood) has a high moisture content, which can make it harder to cut. The fibers are saturated, creating more friction and resistance. Seasoned wood, on the other hand, has a lower moisture content, making it easier to cut and split. Ideally, firewood should be seasoned to below 20% moisture content for optimal burning.
Grain Pattern: The grain pattern of the wood also affects cutting. Straight-grained wood is generally easier to cut than wood with knots, twists, or irregular grain. Knots, in particular, can dull your chain quickly and increase the risk of kickback.

Tip #1: Chain Sharpness is King

This might seem obvious, but I can’t stress it enough: a sharp chain is the single most important factor in optimal cutting. A dull chain not only makes cutting more difficult and time-consuming, but it also increases the risk of kickback and can damage your saw.

The Science of Sharpness: A sharp chain cuts wood fibers cleanly, removing small chips with each pass. A dull chain, on the other hand, tears and grinds the wood, creating sawdust instead of chips. This generates more heat, friction, and stress on the saw.
Signs of a Dull Chain: You’ll know your chain is dull when:
- It produces sawdust instead of chips.
- You have to apply excessive pressure to make it cut.
- The saw vibrates excessively.
- The cut is uneven or angled.
- The saw smokes or smells like burning wood.
Sharpening Techniques: There are several ways to sharpen your chainsaw chain:
- Hand Filing: This is the most common and affordable method. It requires a round file, a flat file, and a depth gauge tool. It takes practice to master, but it allows you to sharpen your chain in the field.
- Electric Chain Sharpener: This is a faster and more precise method, but it requires a power source. Electric sharpeners are ideal for sharpening multiple chains or for those who want a more consistent result.
- Professional Sharpening: If you’re not comfortable sharpening your own chain, you can take it to a professional. This is a good option for severely damaged or worn chains.
Frequency of Sharpening: How often you need to sharpen your chain depends on the type of wood you’re cutting and the conditions you’re working in. As a general rule, sharpen your chain every time you refuel your saw or whenever you notice a decrease in cutting performance.

My Personal Experience: I remember one time, I was cutting down a large oak tree with a dull chain. I was struggling to make progress, and the saw was vibrating like crazy. I finally stopped and checked the chain, and it was completely blunt. I spent the next hour sharpening it by hand, and the difference was night and day. The saw cut through the oak like butter, and I finished the job in a fraction of the time. That experience taught me the importance of maintaining a sharp chain.

Tip #2: Proper Chain Tension is Crucial

Chain tension is another critical factor in optimal cutting. Too loose, and the chain can derail or bind. Too tight, and it can overheat and wear out prematurely.

The Goldilocks Zone: The ideal chain tension is tight enough to prevent the chain from derailing, but loose enough to allow it to be pulled around the bar by hand.
Checking Chain Tension: To check chain tension, loosen the bar nuts slightly and use the chain tensioning screw to adjust the chain. The chain should be snug against the bar, with about 1/8 inch of sag on the bottom.
Adjusting for Temperature: Chain tension can change with temperature. As the chain heats up during cutting, it expands. Therefore, it’s important to check and adjust chain tension periodically, especially during long cutting sessions.
The Risks of Incorrect Tension:
- Too Loose: Derailment, chain damage, increased risk of kickback.
- Too Tight: Overheating, premature wear, reduced cutting performance, potential damage to the bar and sprocket.

Data Point: Studies have shown that proper chain tension can increase cutting efficiency by up to 20% and extend chain life by 30%.

Tip #3: Lubrication is Key to Longevity

Chainsaw chains require constant lubrication to reduce friction, dissipate heat, and prevent wear. Without proper lubrication, the chain and bar will quickly overheat, leading to premature failure.

The Science of Lubrication: Chainsaw oil is specially formulated to cling to the chain and bar, providing a protective layer between the moving parts. It also helps to flush away sawdust and debris, keeping the cutting surfaces clean.
Types of Chainsaw Oil: There are two main types of chainsaw oil:
- Petroleum-Based Oil: This is the most common and affordable type of chainsaw oil. It provides good lubrication and protection, but it’s not biodegradable.
- Vegetable-Based Oil: This is a more environmentally friendly option. It’s biodegradable and provides excellent lubrication. However, it’s typically more expensive than petroleum-based oil.
Checking Oil Levels: Always check the oil level before starting your chainsaw and refill as needed. During long cutting sessions, check the oil level frequently.
Signs of Insufficient Lubrication:
- The chain smokes or smells like burning oil.
- The bar turns blue from overheating.
- The chain wears out prematurely.
- The saw vibrates excessively.

My Story: I once neglected to check the oil level on my chainsaw before starting a big firewood project. After about an hour of cutting, I noticed that the bar was smoking and the chain was making a screeching noise. I immediately stopped the saw and checked the oil level, and it was bone dry. I had completely burned out the bar and chain. It was a costly mistake that taught me the importance of proper lubrication.

Tip #4: Mastering the Art of Felling and Bucking

Felling (cutting down a tree) and bucking (cutting a felled tree into logs) are two fundamental chainsaw techniques. Mastering these techniques is essential for safety, efficiency, and wood utilization.

Felling Techniques:
- Planning: Before felling a tree, assess the lean, wind direction, and surrounding obstacles. Plan your escape route and ensure that there are no people or objects in the fall zone.
- Notches: Cut a notch on the side of the tree in the direction you want it to fall. The notch should be about 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
- Back Cut: Make a back cut on the opposite side of the tree, slightly above the notch. Leave a hinge of wood to control the fall.
- Wedges: Use wedges to help direct the fall and prevent the saw from pinching.
Bucking Techniques:
- Support: Support the log to prevent it from pinching the saw. Use logs, branches, or wedges to create a stable platform.
- Cutting from Above: When bucking a log that is supported at both ends, cut from above to avoid pinching.
- Cutting from Below: When bucking a log that is supported in the middle, cut from below to avoid pinching.
- Boring Cut: Use a boring cut to remove sections of the log without pinching the saw. This technique is useful for removing knots or other obstructions.

Safety First: Always wear appropriate safety gear when felling and bucking trees, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps.

Tip #5: Bar Maintenance and Inspection

Your chainsaw bar is a critical component that needs regular maintenance and inspection. A worn or damaged bar can affect cutting performance and increase the risk of kickback.

Bar Inspection:
- Check for Wear: Look for wear on the bar rails, especially near the sprocket. Wear on the rails can cause the chain to derail or bind.
- Check for Damage: Look for cracks, bends, or other damage to the bar. A damaged bar can be dangerous and should be replaced.
- Check for Burrs: Remove any burrs or sharp edges on the bar rails with a flat file.
Bar Maintenance:
- Clean the Bar: Clean the bar regularly with a wire brush to remove sawdust and debris.
- Lubricate the Bar: Lubricate the bar with chainsaw oil to reduce friction and prevent wear.
- Flip the Bar: Flip the bar periodically to distribute wear evenly.
- Dress the Bar: Use a bar dressing tool to restore the bar rails to their original shape.

Data Point: A properly maintained chainsaw bar can last for hundreds of hours of use. Neglecting bar maintenance can significantly shorten its lifespan.

Bonus Tip: Understanding Kickback and How to Prevent It

Kickback is a sudden and violent reaction that can occur when the tip of the chainsaw bar contacts a solid object or when the chain is pinched in the cut. It’s one of the most common causes of chainsaw injuries.

Types of Kickback:
- Rotational Kickback: This occurs when the upper quadrant of the bar tip contacts a solid object. The saw kicks back towards the operator with considerable force.
- Pinch Kickback: This occurs when the chain is pinched in the cut, causing the saw to kick back towards the operator.
- Pull-In: This occurs when the bottom of the bar tip catches on an object, pulling the saw forward.
Preventing Kickback:
- Use a Chainsaw with Kickback Reduction Features: Many modern chainsaws have features like chain brakes and low-kickback chains to reduce the risk of kickback.
- Maintain a Proper Grip: Keep a firm grip on the chainsaw with both hands, and keep your thumbs wrapped around the handles.
- Avoid Cutting with the Bar Tip: Be aware of the position of the bar tip and avoid contacting it with solid objects.
- Use Proper Cutting Techniques: Use proper felling and bucking techniques to prevent pinching and binding.
- Keep the Chain Sharp: A dull chain is more likely to cause kickback.
- Be Aware of Your Surroundings: Be aware of your surroundings and avoid cutting in areas where there are obstacles or hazards.

Case Study: Firewood Preparation Project

Let’s look at a case study of a firewood preparation project to illustrate how these tips can be applied in practice.

Project Goal: To prepare 10 cords of firewood from a fallen oak tree.
Equipment: Stihl MS 250 chainsaw with a 20-inch bar, splitting maul, wedges, safety gear.
Process:
1. Assessment: The tree was assessed for size, lean, and surrounding obstacles. A felling plan was developed.
2. Felling: The tree was felled using proper notching and back-cutting techniques. Wedges were used to direct the fall.
3. Bucking: The tree was bucked into 16-inch logs using proper support and cutting techniques. The chain was sharpened regularly to maintain optimal cutting performance.
4. Splitting: The logs were split using a splitting maul and wedges.
5. Stacking: The firewood was stacked in a well-ventilated area to season.
Results: The project was completed safely and efficiently. The firewood was seasoned to below 20% moisture content within six months.

Statistical Insights into Firewood Seasoning:

Drying Time: Hardwoods typically take 6-12 months to season, while softwoods can season in 3-6 months.
Moisture Content Reduction: Properly seasoned firewood has a moisture content of 15-20%, compared to 50-60% for green wood.
Heat Output: Seasoned firewood produces up to 50% more heat than green wood.
Creosote Reduction: Burning seasoned firewood reduces creosote buildup in chimneys, which can prevent chimney fires.

Choosing the Right Chain for Your MS 250

The Stihl MS 250 is a versatile saw, and choosing the right chain can optimize its performance for different tasks. Here’s a breakdown:

Picco Micro (PM3): This is a low-kickback chain, great for beginners and general use. It’s easy to sharpen and provides a smooth cut.
Rapid Micro (RM): A more aggressive chain that cuts faster than the PM3. It’s a good all-around choice for experienced users.
Rapid Super (RS): The most aggressive chain, designed for professional use. It cuts very quickly but requires more skill to control.

Important Considerations:

Gauge: Ensure the chain gauge matches the gauge of your bar. The MS 250 typically uses a .050″ gauge chain.
Pitch: The pitch of the chain must also match the sprocket and bar. The MS 250 typically uses a 3/8″ low profile pitch.
Drive Links: Count the number of drive links on your old chain to ensure you get the correct replacement.

Cost-Benefit Analysis: Investing in Quality Equipment

While it might be tempting to save money by buying cheaper chains or neglecting maintenance, investing in quality equipment and proper maintenance will pay off in the long run.

Chain Costs: A high-quality chain might cost $30-$50, while a cheap chain might cost $15-$20. However, the high-quality chain will last longer, cut faster, and reduce the risk of kickback.
Bar Costs: A good quality bar can last for years with proper maintenance. Replacing a damaged bar can cost $50-$100.
Saw Longevity: Proper maintenance can significantly extend the life of your chainsaw. Replacing a chainsaw can cost several hundred dollars.
Safety: Investing in safety gear and proper training can prevent costly injuries.

Actionable Advice for Immediate Improvement

Here are a few things you can do today to improve your chainsaw skills:

Sharpen Your Chain: Even if you think it’s sharp, take a few minutes to touch it up with a file. You’ll be surprised at the difference.
Check Your Chain Tension: Make sure your chain is properly tensioned before each use.
Clean Your Bar: Remove any sawdust or debris from your bar with a wire brush.
Review Your Safety Gear: Ensure that your safety gear is in good condition and fits properly.
Practice Safe Cutting Techniques: Review the proper felling and bucking techniques before starting your next project.

Challenges Faced by DIYers Globally

I understand that not everyone has access to the same resources or equipment.

Limited Access to Equipment: In some regions, access to chainsaws, splitting mauls, and other tools may be limited or expensive.
Lack of Training: Proper chainsaw training may not be readily available in all areas.
Environmental Regulations: Some regions have strict environmental regulations regarding tree felling and firewood harvesting.
Financial Constraints: DIYers on a tight budget may struggle to afford high-quality equipment or safety gear.
Language Barriers: Accessing information and training materials in local languages can be challenging.

Tips for Overcoming These Challenges:

Seek Out Local Resources: Look for local woodworking clubs, community workshops, or government programs that offer training or equipment sharing.
Invest in Essential Safety Gear: Prioritize safety gear over expensive tools. A helmet, eye protection, and gloves are essential.
Learn from Experienced Users: Seek out advice from experienced chainsaw users in your community.
Be Resourceful: Find creative ways to adapt tools and techniques to your specific needs and resources.
Advocate for Training and Resources: Support initiatives that promote chainsaw safety and sustainable forestry practices in your community.

Conclusion: Mastering the Art of Chainsaw Operation

Mastering the art of chainsaw operation is a continuous learning process. By understanding the science of wood, practicing proper techniques, and maintaining your equipment, you can improve your safety, efficiency, and wood utilization.

Remember, the Stihl MS 250 with a 20-inch bar is a powerful tool that demands respect. Treat it with care, maintain it properly, and always prioritize safety.

So, go out there, sharpen your chain, and get to work. But remember to always be mindful, be safe, and respect the power of the tool in your hands. And most importantly, enjoy the process!