Stihl MS 250 20 Inch Bar: Affordable Chains (5 Tips)
The scent of sawdust and two-stroke exhaust always takes me back. Back to my grandfather’s woodlot, where I first learned the art of felling trees and splitting firewood. He swore by his Stihl, a trusty workhorse that could handle anything we threw at it. Now, years later, I’ve got my own collection of chainsaws, each with its purpose. And one saw I often recommend, especially to those starting out or needing a reliable mid-range option, is the Stihl MS 250 with a 20-inch bar. It strikes that sweet spot of power, weight, and affordability. But even the best chainsaw is only as good as its chain. Choosing the right chain can make all the difference, turning a frustrating chore into a satisfying task. So, let’s dive into my top tips for keeping your Stihl MS 250 singing with the right chain.
Stihl MS 250 20 Inch Bar: Affordable Chains (5 Tips)
The Stihl MS 250 is a popular choice for a reason. It’s a versatile saw capable of handling a range of tasks, from limbing branches to felling smaller trees. Its 20-inch bar provides ample reach for many common wood-cutting scenarios. But to truly unlock its potential, you need the right chain. Getting the correct chain for your Stihl MS 250 is important for safety, efficiency, and the lifespan of your saw.
1. Understanding Chain Types and Gauges
The first step is understanding the different types of chainsaw chains available and which ones are compatible with your Stihl MS 250. Chains come in various pitches, gauges, and cutter styles.
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Pitch: This refers to the distance between three rivets on the chain, divided by two. The MS 250 typically uses a 3/8″ low profile (also known as .325″ low profile) pitch chain. Using the wrong pitch won’t allow the chain to mesh properly with the saw’s drive sprocket and bar.
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Gauge: This is the thickness of the drive links – the part of the chain that fits into the groove of the guide bar. The Stihl MS 250 usually requires a .050″ gauge chain. Using a chain with the wrong gauge can cause it to bind in the bar or, conversely, be too loose, leading to premature wear and potential kickback.
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Drive Links: The number of drive links you need is determined by the length of your bar. For a 20-inch bar on the MS 250, you’ll typically need a chain with 72 drive links. It’s crucial to double-check this, as variations exist based on the specific bar model.
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Cutter Styles: This is where things get a bit more nuanced.
- Full Chisel: These chains have square-cornered cutters and are the sharpest, cutting the fastest and most efficiently in clean wood. However, they dull more quickly and are more prone to kickback, making them less forgiving for inexperienced users. I used to use these exclusively when felling seasoned oak, but learned the hard way that even a little dirt can drastically reduce their effectiveness.
- Semi-Chisel: These chains have rounded corners on the cutters, making them more durable and less prone to dulling in dirty or abrasive conditions. They’re a good compromise between cutting speed and longevity, and a better choice for general use.
- Low-Profile (Micro-Chisel): These chains have smaller cutters and are designed for smoother cutting and reduced kickback. They’re ideal for beginners and users who prioritize safety. They’re also a good option for limbing and pruning.
Data Point: According to Oregon Products, a leading chainsaw chain manufacturer, full chisel chains can cut up to 20% faster than semi-chisel chains in clean wood. However, their lifespan can be reduced by as much as 50% in dirty conditions.
Technical Specification: Stihl recommends using Picco Micro (PM3) chains, which are low-profile chains, for the MS 250. These chains are designed for smooth cutting and reduced vibration.
My Experience: I’ve found that for most firewood cutting tasks, a semi-chisel chain offers the best balance of performance and durability. I reserve full chisel chains for when I’m working with exceptionally clean wood and need maximum cutting speed.
2. Choosing the Right Chain for the Job
Once you understand the different chain types, you can choose the right one for the specific task at hand.
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Firewood Cutting: For general firewood cutting, I recommend a semi-chisel chain. It will hold its edge longer in dirty conditions and is less prone to kickback than a full chisel chain.
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Limbing and Pruning: A low-profile chain is a good choice for limbing and pruning. It provides smooth cutting and reduced kickback, making it safer and easier to control the saw.
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Felling Trees: If you’re felling trees, especially hardwoods, a full chisel chain can be a good choice, but only if you’re experienced and working in clean conditions. Otherwise, a semi-chisel chain is a safer and more versatile option.
Case Study: I once had a project where I needed to clear a heavily overgrown area filled with thorny bushes and vines before I could even get to the trees. Using a full chisel chain would have been a disaster. I opted for a semi-chisel chain and spent a bit more time cleaning the wood before cutting, but it saved me a lot of time and frustration in the long run.
Practical Tip: Keep a spare chain on hand, especially when working in remote locations. It’s always a good idea to have a sharp chain ready to go in case you damage your primary chain.
3. Chain Maintenance: Sharpening and Lubrication
Proper chain maintenance is crucial for maximizing the life of your chain and ensuring safe and efficient cutting.
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Sharpening: A dull chain is not only less efficient, but it’s also more dangerous. It requires more force to cut, which can increase the risk of kickback. Sharpen your chain regularly, ideally after every few tanks of fuel.
- Filing: You can sharpen your chain with a round file and a file guide. The file guide helps you maintain the correct angle and depth. I prefer using a file guide as it helps me maintain consistency.
- Electric Sharpener: An electric chain sharpener can make sharpening faster and easier. However, it’s important to use it correctly to avoid damaging the chain.
Data Point: A study by the U.S. Forest Service found that a properly sharpened chain can reduce cutting time by up to 30% and fuel consumption by up to 20%.
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Lubrication: Chainsaw chains require constant lubrication to reduce friction and prevent overheating. Use a high-quality bar and chain oil and check the oil level frequently.
- Oil Type: I recommend using a bar and chain oil specifically designed for chainsaws. These oils contain additives that help them adhere to the chain and provide better lubrication. I’ve found that vegetable-based bar and chain oils are a good eco-friendly option.
- Oil Flow: Make sure the oiler on your chainsaw is working properly and that the oil flow is adjusted correctly. You should see a light spray of oil coming off the chain when the saw is running.
Technical Requirement: Stihl recommends using its own brand of bar and chain oil, which is specifically formulated for its chainsaws.
Safety Code: Always wear gloves when sharpening your chainsaw chain. The cutters are extremely sharp and can easily cause cuts.
4. Chain Tension and Break-In
Proper chain tension is essential for safe and efficient cutting.
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Tension Check: Check the chain tension before each use and adjust as needed. The chain should be snug against the bar but still able to be pulled around by hand.
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Adjustment: To adjust the chain tension, loosen the bar nuts and turn the tensioning screw until the chain is properly tensioned. Then, tighten the bar nuts securely.
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Break-In: When installing a new chain, it’s important to break it in properly. Run the saw at low speed for a few minutes to allow the chain to stretch. Then, check the tension and adjust as needed.
Practical Tip: A new chain will stretch more than an old chain, so check the tension frequently during the first few hours of use.
My Experience: I once neglected to break in a new chain properly and ended up having to stop every few minutes to adjust the tension. It was a frustrating experience and a waste of time. Now, I always make sure to break in new chains properly.
5. Safety First: Kickback and PPE
Chainsaws are powerful tools and can be dangerous if not used properly. Always prioritize safety and wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE).
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Kickback: Kickback is the sudden and uncontrolled upward or backward movement of the chainsaw bar. It’s one of the most common causes of chainsaw injuries.
- Causes: Kickback can occur when the tip of the bar comes into contact with an object or when the chain is pinched in the cut.
- Prevention: To prevent kickback, use a chainsaw with a low-kickback chain, maintain proper chain tension, and avoid cutting with the tip of the bar.
Data Point: According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission, kickback accounts for approximately 40% of all chainsaw injuries.
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PPE: Always wear the following PPE when operating a chainsaw:
- Eye Protection: Safety glasses or a face shield.
- Hearing Protection: Earplugs or earmuffs.
- Head Protection: A hard hat.
- Hand Protection: Gloves.
- Leg Protection: Chainsaw chaps or pants.
- Foot Protection: Steel-toed boots.
Technical Details: Chainsaw chaps are made of multiple layers of ballistic nylon or Kevlar. When the chain comes into contact with the chaps, the fibers are pulled out and wrap around the sprocket, stopping the chain from rotating.
Industry Standard: OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Administration) requires the use of appropriate PPE when operating a chainsaw in a professional setting.
My Story: I remember one time I was cutting firewood without wearing my chainsaw chaps. I slipped and the saw came dangerously close to my leg. Thankfully, I was able to regain control of the saw before it made contact, but it was a close call. That experience taught me a valuable lesson about the importance of wearing PPE.
In Conclusion:
