Stihl MS 200 Chainsaw Tips (5 Expert Woodcutting Tricks)

Remember that feeling? The crisp autumn air, the scent of pine needles, and the satisfying roar of a chainsaw biting into wood. There’s a primal connection to nature when you’re working with timber, a sense of accomplishment that comes from transforming raw logs into neatly stacked firewood. But let’s be honest, that feeling can quickly turn to frustration if you’re not wielding your chainsaw with skill and precision. The Stihl MS 200, a favorite among professionals and serious hobbyists, is a powerful tool, but it’s only as effective as the hands that guide it. This article delves into five expert woodcutting tricks specifically tailored for the Stihl MS 200, designed to elevate your wood processing and firewood preparation game. These aren’t just random tips; they’re techniques I’ve honed over years of experience, learned from seasoned loggers, and refined through countless hours in the woods. I’ll share insights gained from large-scale timber projects and small-scale firewood setups, ensuring you get the most out of your MS 200 while staying safe and efficient.

Mastering Your Stihl MS 200: 5 Expert Woodcutting Tricks

The Stihl MS 200 is a classic chainsaw, known for its lightweight design, power, and reliability. It’s a workhorse, perfect for felling small to medium-sized trees, limbing, bucking, and firewood preparation. But to truly master this saw, you need more than just basic knowledge. You need to understand advanced techniques that maximize its capabilities and minimize risks.

1. The Bore Cut: Precision Felling and Stress Relief

The bore cut, also known as the plunge cut, is a technique that allows you to control the direction of a tree fall with incredible precision and relieve internal stresses within a log before making your final cuts. It’s a game-changer for felling trees in tight spaces or for preventing splitting and pinching when bucking logs.

Key Concepts:

• Hinge Wood: The critical section of wood left uncut during felling that controls the direction of the fall.
• Kerf: The width of the cut made by the chainsaw.
• Kickback: A sudden, uncontrolled upward or backward movement of the chainsaw, often caused by the tip of the bar contacting wood.

Step-by-Step Guide:

1. Assess the Tree: Before making any cuts, carefully assess the tree for lean, wind conditions, and any signs of weakness or rot. Clear the area around the tree of any obstacles and plan your escape route.
2. Make the Face Cut: This is your initial cut, creating a wedge-shaped notch on the side of the tree facing the direction you want it to fall. The face cut consists of two cuts: the upper cut, angled downwards at approximately 45 degrees, and the lower cut, horizontal and meeting the upper cut. The depth of the face cut should be about 1/5 to 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
3. Insert the Saw: Carefully insert the tip of the chainsaw bar into the tree behind the face cut, at a point level with the apex of the notch. This is where a reduced kickback bar is incredibly useful.
4. Bore Cut (Plunge Cut): Slowly and carefully plunge the saw bar into the tree, keeping the nose of the bar moving and watching for any signs of pinching. The depth of the bore cut should be such that you leave a hinge of wood between the bore cut and the face cut. The hinge’s thickness depends on the tree’s diameter and species, but generally, it should be about 1/10 of the tree’s diameter.
5. Felling Cut: Once the bore cut is complete, carefully cut towards the back of the tree, leaving the hinge wood intact. Monitor the tree for any signs of movement.
6. Wedge Insertion (Optional): If the tree is leaning in the opposite direction of your intended fall, or if you’re working in windy conditions, insert felling wedges into the cut behind the saw to help push the tree over.
7. Final Cut and Fall: Make the final cut, severing the remaining hinge wood. The tree should now fall in the direction of the face cut. Shout a warning (“Timber!”) before the tree falls.
8. Escape Route: Immediately move away from the falling tree along your pre-planned escape route.

Example: I once had to fell a large oak tree in a residential area. The tree was leaning slightly towards a house, making a traditional felling technique too risky. Using the bore cut, I was able to precisely control the direction of the fall, ensuring it landed safely away from the house. The key was maintaining a consistent hinge thickness and using wedges to counteract the tree’s natural lean.

Benefits:

• Precise Directional Control: Allows you to fell trees in tight spaces or against their natural lean.
• Stress Relief: Prevents splitting and pinching when bucking logs, especially those with internal tension.
• Increased Safety: Reduces the risk of kickback and uncontrolled tree falls.

Strategic Advantages:

• Minimizes damage to surrounding trees and property.
• Improves efficiency by reducing the need for additional cuts or adjustments.
• Allows you to work with greater confidence in challenging felling situations.

Technical Details:

• Hinge Thickness: Approximately 1/10 of the tree’s diameter.
• Face Cut Depth: 1/5 to 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
• Wedge Material: Plastic or aluminum wedges are preferred over steel wedges to avoid damaging the chainsaw chain.

Safety Considerations:

• Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE), including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps.
• Be aware of your surroundings and plan your escape route.
• Never attempt a bore cut if you are not comfortable with the technique or if you are working in hazardous conditions.
• Use a reduced kickback bar on your chainsaw to minimize the risk of kickback.

2. The “Hogging Out” Technique: Efficiently Removing Large Sections of Wood

“Hogging out” is a technique used to rapidly remove large amounts of wood, typically when milling lumber or creating large notches in logs. While not directly related to felling, it’s an incredibly useful skill for anyone processing timber, especially when using a chainsaw mill attachment.

Key Concepts:

• Chain Speed: The speed at which the chainsaw chain is moving, measured in feet per second (fps).
• Feed Rate: The rate at which you are pushing the chainsaw through the wood.
• Chip Clearance: The ability of the chainsaw to effectively remove wood chips from the cut.

Step-by-Step Guide:

1. Set Up Your Workpiece: Securely clamp or position the log you’ll be working on. Ensure it’s stable and won’t move during the cutting process.
2. Mark Your Cut: Clearly mark the area you want to remove. This could be a rectangular section for milling or a specific shape for creating a notch.
3. Initial Cuts: Make a series of parallel cuts within the marked area, spaced approximately 1-2 inches apart. The depth of these cuts will depend on the amount of wood you want to remove.
4. Angled Cuts: Now, make angled cuts intersecting the parallel cuts. These angled cuts will help to break up the wood into smaller, more manageable pieces.
5. Remove the Chunks: Use the tip of the chainsaw bar to pry out the individual chunks of wood created by the intersecting cuts. Be careful not to force the saw or get it pinched.
6. Clean Up: Once you’ve removed the bulk of the wood, use the chainsaw to smooth out any rough edges or uneven surfaces.

Example: I used the hogging out technique extensively when building a timber frame shed. I needed to create large notches in the posts and beams to join them together. By making a series of parallel and angled cuts, I was able to quickly and efficiently remove the necessary wood, creating precise and strong joints.

Benefits:

• Rapid Wood Removal: Allows you to remove large amounts of wood quickly and efficiently.
• Precise Shaping: Enables you to create complex shapes and notches with relative ease.
• Versatile Application: Useful for milling lumber, creating timber frame joints, and other wood processing tasks.

Strategic Advantages:

• Reduces the time and effort required for wood processing.
• Allows you to work with larger logs and create more complex designs.
• Increases the value of your timber by enabling you to mill it into lumber or create custom wood products.

Technical Details:

• Chain Type: A ripping chain is recommended for milling lumber, as it is designed to cut parallel to the grain of the wood.
• Chain Sharpness: A sharp chain is essential for efficient hogging out. Dull chains will cause the saw to bog down and increase the risk of kickback.
• Saw Size: A larger chainsaw with a longer bar is generally recommended for hogging out, as it will allow you to make deeper cuts and remove more wood at a time.

Safety Considerations:

• Always wear appropriate PPE.
• Be careful not to overreach or lose your balance when working with the chainsaw.
• Avoid getting the chainsaw pinched in the wood.
• Use caution when prying out chunks of wood, as they can sometimes fly out unexpectedly.

3. The “Scarf Joint” Technique: Repairing Damaged Logs and Creating Strong Connections

The scarf joint is a woodworking technique used to join two pieces of wood end-to-end, creating a strong and seamless connection. It’s particularly useful for repairing damaged logs or creating longer timbers from shorter pieces. While not exclusively a chainsaw technique, the MS 200 can be instrumental in shaping the joint.

Key Concepts:

• Grain Alignment: The direction of the wood fibers in relation to the joint.
• Surface Area: The amount of contact between the two pieces of wood being joined.
• Glue Strength: The ability of the adhesive to hold the joint together.

Step-by-Step Guide:

1. Prepare the Wood: Ensure that the two pieces of wood you are joining are clean, dry, and free of any loose bark or debris.
2. Mark the Joint: Mark the location and angle of the scarf joint on both pieces of wood. A typical scarf joint angle is between 1:8 and 1:12 (for every inch of thickness, the joint extends 8-12 inches along the length). The longer the scarf, the stronger the joint.
3. Make the Cuts: Use a chainsaw, hand saw, or power planer to create the angled surfaces of the scarf joint. Precision is key here. Aim for smooth, even surfaces that fit together perfectly. For larger timbers, the MS 200 is excellent for initial shaping, followed by hand tools for fine-tuning.
4. Test Fit: Dry-fit the two pieces of wood together to ensure that the joint is aligned correctly and that there are no gaps.
5. Apply Glue: Apply a generous amount of high-quality wood glue to both surfaces of the scarf joint.
6. Clamp the Joint: Clamp the two pieces of wood together, ensuring that the joint is tight and that the glue is evenly distributed. Use enough clamps to apply even pressure across the entire joint.
7. Allow to Cure: Allow the glue to cure completely according to the manufacturer’s instructions. This may take several hours or even overnight.
8. Clean Up: Once the glue has cured, remove the clamps and clean up any excess glue. You can then sand or plane the joint to create a smooth, seamless surface.

Example: I once had a beautiful old oak beam that had a large crack running through its center. Rather than discarding the beam, I used a scarf joint to repair it. I cut out the damaged section and replaced it with a new piece of oak, joined to the original beam using a scarf joint. The repaired beam is now stronger than ever and is a beautiful feature in my workshop.

Benefits:

• Strong Connection: Creates a strong and durable connection between two pieces of wood.
• Seamless Appearance: The angled joint creates a visually appealing and seamless connection.
• Versatile Application: Can be used to repair damaged logs, create longer timbers, or join wood at an angle.

Strategic Advantages:

• Allows you to salvage damaged timber and reduce waste.
• Enables you to create custom-sized timbers for specific projects.
• Improves the overall quality and appearance of your woodworking projects.

Technical Details:

• Scarf Joint Angle: Between 1:8 and 1:12.
• Glue Type: High-quality wood glue, such as polyurethane or epoxy.
• Clamping Pressure: Apply enough pressure to ensure a tight and even glue bond.

Safety Considerations:

• Always wear appropriate PPE.
• Be careful when using sharp tools to create the scarf joint.
• Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for using wood glue.
• Ensure that the clamps are properly secured before leaving the joint to cure.

4. The “Chain Shot” Technique: Precise Limbing and Brush Clearing

The “chain shot” technique isn’t a formally recognized term, but it’s a descriptive way to refer to using the tip of the chainsaw bar for quick, precise cuts when limbing trees or clearing brush. It relies on the power and maneuverability of the MS 200.

Key Concepts:

• Bar Tip Control: Maintaining precise control of the chainsaw bar tip.
• Reactive Forces: Understanding and managing the reactive forces of the chainsaw.
• Chain Lubrication: Ensuring proper chain lubrication to prevent overheating and wear.

Step-by-Step Guide:

1. Position Yourself Safely: Always position yourself on the uphill side of the tree or brush you are limbing or clearing. Ensure that you have a clear escape route in case of falling branches or debris.
2. Grip the Chainsaw Firmly: Maintain a firm grip on the chainsaw with both hands. Keep your thumbs wrapped around the handles.
3. Engage the Chain Brake: Before starting the chainsaw, engage the chain brake.
4. Start the Chainsaw: Start the chainsaw and allow it to warm up for a few seconds.
5. Disengage the Chain Brake: Disengage the chain brake and position the tip of the chainsaw bar near the branch or brush you want to cut.
6. Make the Cut: Use a quick, controlled motion to make the cut. Avoid forcing the saw or applying excessive pressure. Let the saw do the work.
7. Repeat as Necessary: Repeat steps 5 and 6 to limb the tree or clear the brush.
8. Clear Debris: Periodically clear away any debris that accumulates around your feet.

Example: I often use the “chain shot” technique when clearing brush around my property. It allows me to quickly and efficiently remove small branches and saplings without having to bend over or make large, sweeping cuts. The key is to maintain a light touch and let the chainsaw do the work.

Benefits:

• Fast and Efficient: Allows you to limb trees and clear brush quickly and efficiently.
• Precise Cuts: Enables you to make precise cuts in tight spaces.
• Reduced Fatigue: Minimizes the amount of bending and lifting required, reducing fatigue.

Strategic Advantages:

• Saves time and effort when limbing trees or clearing brush.
• Improves the overall appearance of your property.
• Reduces the risk of injury by minimizing the amount of physical exertion required.

Technical Details:

• Chain Sharpness: A sharp chain is essential for efficient limbing and brush clearing.
• Chain Lubrication: Ensure that the chain is properly lubricated to prevent overheating and wear.
• Bar Length: A shorter bar is generally preferred for limbing and brush clearing, as it is more maneuverable.

Safety Considerations:

• Always wear appropriate PPE.
• Be aware of your surroundings and plan your escape route.
• Avoid cutting above your head.
• Be careful of falling branches and debris.
• Never operate a chainsaw when you are tired or under the influence of drugs or alcohol.

5. The “Kerf Cutting” Technique: Preventing Wood Splitting During Drying

Kerf cutting is a preventative measure used to minimize splitting in logs, particularly valuable hardwoods, as they dry. It involves making a shallow cut along the length of the log, relieving internal stresses and providing a controlled place for cracks to form.

Key Concepts:

• Moisture Content: The amount of water contained within the wood, expressed as a percentage of the wood’s dry weight.
• Internal Stresses: Forces within the wood caused by uneven drying.
• Checking: Cracks that develop in wood as it dries.

Step-by-Step Guide:

1. Select Logs: Choose logs that are prone to splitting, such as oak, maple, or walnut.
2. Make the Cut: Using your Stihl MS 200, make a single, shallow cut along the entire length of the log. The depth of the cut should be approximately 1/4 to 1/3 of the log’s diameter.
3. Position the Cut: Ideally, position the cut on the side of the log that is most likely to split. This is often the side that is exposed to the sun or wind.
4. Seal the Ends (Optional): Apply a log sealant to the ends of the log to slow down the drying process and further reduce the risk of splitting.
5. Stack and Dry: Stack the logs in a well-ventilated area, away from direct sunlight and rain. Allow the logs to dry slowly and evenly.

Example: I had a large walnut log that I wanted to use for woodworking projects. Walnut is notorious for splitting as it dries. I used the kerf cutting technique to make a shallow cut along the length of the log. The cut provided a controlled place for the cracks to form, preventing the log from splitting into multiple pieces.

Benefits:

• Reduces Splitting: Minimizes the risk of splitting in logs as they dry.
• Preserves Wood Value: Helps to preserve the value of valuable hardwoods.
• Improves Wood Quality: Reduces the amount of waste and improves the overall quality of the wood.

Strategic Advantages:

• Allows you to utilize logs that would otherwise be unusable.
• Increases the yield of usable lumber from each log.
• Reduces the cost of purchasing lumber.

Technical Details:

• Cut Depth: 1/4 to 1/3 of the log’s diameter.
• Log Sealant: Use a commercially available log sealant specifically designed for preventing end checking.
• Drying Time: Drying time will vary depending on the species of wood, the size of the log, and the climate. Generally, allow one year of drying time per inch of thickness.

Safety Considerations:

• Always wear appropriate PPE.
• Be careful when operating the chainsaw.
• Avoid cutting into the ground.
• Store the logs in a safe and stable manner.

Beyond the Tricks: Maintaining Your Stihl MS 200

These expert techniques are only as good as the tool you’re using. Proper maintenance of your Stihl MS 200 is crucial for its performance, longevity, and your safety.

• Chain Sharpening: A sharp chain is essential for efficient and safe cutting. Learn how to sharpen your chain properly using a file or a chain grinder.
• Air Filter Cleaning: A clean air filter ensures proper engine performance. Clean the air filter regularly, especially when working in dusty conditions.
• Spark Plug Inspection: Inspect the spark plug regularly for signs of wear or damage. Replace the spark plug as needed.
• Fuel and Oil Mixture: Use the correct fuel and oil mixture as specified in the owner’s manual.
• Chain and Bar Lubrication: Keep the chain and bar properly lubricated to prevent overheating and wear.
• Regular Inspection: Inspect the chainsaw regularly for any signs of damage or wear. Address any issues promptly.

From Knowledge to Action: Your Next Steps

You’ve now gained valuable insights into advanced woodcutting techniques using the Stihl MS 200. The next step is to put this knowledge into practice.

1. Start Small: Begin by practicing these techniques on smaller logs or branches.
2. Seek Guidance: If possible, seek guidance from an experienced woodcutter or arborist.
3. Prioritize Safety: Always prioritize safety and wear appropriate PPE.
4. Experiment and Learn: Don’t be afraid to experiment and learn from your mistakes.
5. Share Your Knowledge: Share your knowledge with others and help to promote safe and sustainable wood processing practices.

By mastering these expert techniques and maintaining your Stihl MS 200 properly, you’ll be well-equipped to tackle any wood processing or firewood preparation project with confidence and skill. Remember, the roar of the chainsaw is more than just noise; it’s the sound of transformation, of connecting with nature, and of creating something lasting from the raw materials around us. Embrace the challenge, hone your skills, and enjoy the rewarding experience of working with wood.

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