Stihl MS 172 Chainsaw Tips (5 Pro Woodcutting Hacks)

Are you ready to transform your woodcutting game from frustrating to fantastic with just a few tweaks? Let me tell you, I’ve been there. I’ve wrestled with underpowered saws, battled kickback, and cursed at uneven cuts. But over the years, through trial, error, and a whole lot of sawdust, I’ve learned some tricks that make all the difference. And today, I’m going to share 5 pro woodcutting hacks specifically tailored for the Stihl MS 172 chainsaw – a fantastic machine that, with the right techniques, can be an absolute workhorse.

Stihl MS 172 Chainsaw Tips: 5 Pro Woodcutting Hacks

The Stihl MS 172 is a popular choice, and for good reason. It’s lightweight, relatively powerful for its size, and easy to handle. But like any tool, it has its limitations. These hacks will help you push those limitations and get the most out of your saw. Whether you’re a homeowner tackling firewood, a hobbyist crafting wooden projects, or a small-scale logger, these tips will boost your efficiency, safety, and overall woodcutting prowess.

1. Mastering the Bore Cut: Unlock Felling Precision and Prevent Pinching

The bore cut, also known as the plunge cut, is a technique that often intimidates beginners, but it’s a game-changer for controlled felling and preventing the dreaded chainsaw pinch. A chainsaw pinch occurs when the weight of the wood closes on the saw blade, especially during felling or bucking (cutting logs into shorter lengths). This can stall your saw, damage the chain, and even create a dangerous situation.

What is a Bore Cut?

A bore cut involves using the tip of the chainsaw bar to carefully plunge into the wood, creating a cavity before making the final cuts. This allows you to relieve internal stresses in the wood and control the direction of the fall.

Why Use a Bore Cut with the Stihl MS 172?

The MS 172, while capable, doesn’t have the brute force of larger saws. The bore cut helps you work with the wood, not against it, reducing the strain on the engine and preventing the bar from getting stuck.

Step-by-Step Guide to a Safe and Effective Bore Cut:

Safety First: Ensure you’re wearing proper safety gear: helmet with face shield, ear protection, chainsaw chaps, gloves, and sturdy boots. Clear the area of obstacles and ensure a safe escape route.
Stance and Grip: Stand firmly with your feet shoulder-width apart, maintaining a balanced stance. Grip the chainsaw firmly with both hands. Your left hand should be on the front handle, and your right hand on the rear handle.
Initiating the Cut: Position the saw so the bottom tip of the bar is against the wood. Engage the chain brake. Start the saw and let it come up to full speed. Release the chain brake.
The Plunge: Gently pivot the saw into the wood, using the bottom of the bar tip. Angle the saw slightly downwards to help control the depth of the cut. Apply steady pressure, letting the saw do the work. Avoid forcing it.
Creating the Notch: Once you’ve plunged deep enough to create a cavity, carefully widen the cut by pivoting the saw from side to side. This creates a notch within the wood. The size of the notch will depend on the size of the tree or log.
Felling Cuts (if felling a tree): After creating the bore cut notch, you can proceed with your felling cuts. The bore cut allows you to control the hinge (the uncut wood that guides the fall of the tree) more precisely.
Bucking Cuts (if cutting logs): When bucking, use the bore cut to relieve pressure before making the final cut through the log. This prevents the log from pinching the bar.

Case Study: Preventing a Pinch on a Leaning Oak

I was once helping a friend clear some fallen trees after a storm. One particularly large oak log was leaning heavily on a smaller tree, creating immense pressure. Without a bore cut, there was a high risk of the bar getting pinched and the log snapping unpredictably.

I used the bore cut to create a cavity in the log near the point where it was resting on the other tree. This relieved the pressure, allowing me to safely make the final cut without any pinching or unexpected movement.

Measurements and Specifications:

Bore Cut Depth: Typically, the bore cut should be deep enough to accommodate the width of the chainsaw bar.
Hinge Wood (for felling): The hinge wood should be approximately 10% of the tree’s diameter for optimal control.
Chainsaw Bar Length: The Stihl MS 172 typically comes with a 16-inch bar, which is suitable for trees and logs up to about 14 inches in diameter.

Strategic Advantages:

Increased Safety: Reduces the risk of kickback and pinching.
Improved Control: Allows for precise felling and bucking.
Reduced Strain on Saw: Prevents the engine from bogging down.
Enhanced Efficiency: Makes cutting easier and faster.

Cost and Skill Level:

Cost: No additional cost, just requires practice.
Skill Level: Intermediate. Requires understanding of tree felling principles and chainsaw safety.

Important Note: Practice the bore cut on smaller logs before attempting it on larger trees. Start with the saw chain brake engaged until you are ready to plunge the saw into the wood. Always be aware of your surroundings and potential hazards.

2. Optimizing Chain Tension: Maximize Cutting Performance and Extend Chain Life

Proper chain tension is critical for the Stihl MS 172’s performance and the longevity of its chain and bar. Too loose, and the chain can derail, causing damage and potential injury. Too tight, and it can overheat, wear out prematurely, and even damage the saw’s engine.

Understanding Chain Tension:

Chain tension refers to the tightness of the chainsaw chain around the guide bar. The correct tension allows the chain to rotate freely without excessive slack or binding.

How to Check Chain Tension on the Stihl MS 172:

Safety First: Always wear gloves when handling the chain. Ensure the saw is turned off and the chain brake is engaged.
Visual Inspection: Look at the chain along the bottom of the guide bar. It should be snug against the bar but still able to be pulled away slightly.
The “Pull Test”: Using a gloved hand, gently pull the chain away from the bar in the middle of the bar’s underside. You should be able to pull it away about the thickness of a dime (approximately 1.35mm or 0.053 inches).

Adjusting Chain Tension:

The Stihl MS 172 has a side-mounted chain tensioner. Here’s how to use it:

Loosen the Bar Nuts: Use the wrench provided with the saw to loosen the bar nuts that secure the guide bar cover. Don’t remove them completely, just loosen them enough to allow the bar to move.
Locate the Tensioning Screw: The tensioning screw is located on the side of the saw, near the bar mounting point.
Adjust the Tension:
- To tighten the chain: Turn the tensioning screw clockwise.
- To loosen the chain: Turn the tensioning screw counterclockwise.
Check the Tension: After each adjustment, check the chain tension using the “pull test” described above.
Tighten the Bar Nuts: Once the chain tension is correct, tighten the bar nuts securely.

Why Chain Tension Changes:

New Chains: New chains tend to stretch during the first few uses, requiring frequent adjustments.
Temperature Fluctuations: Changes in temperature can affect the chain’s tension.
Cutting Conditions: Cutting hard or dirty wood can cause the chain to heat up and expand, requiring adjustments.

My Experience with Chain Tension:

I learned the importance of proper chain tension the hard way. I was cutting firewood on a hot summer day, and I didn’t check the tension frequently enough. The chain became too loose, and it derailed while I was making a cut. Fortunately, I wasn’t injured, but the chain was damaged, and I had to spend time repairing it. Now, I make it a habit to check the chain tension every time I refuel the saw.

Measurements and Specifications:

Chain Slack: Approximately 1.35mm (0.053 inches) of slack when pulled away from the bar.
Bar Nut Torque: Refer to your Stihl MS 172 owner’s manual for the specific torque setting for the bar nuts. Typically, it’s around 15-20 Nm (11-15 ft-lbs).
Chain Type: The Stihl MS 172 typically uses a 3/8″ P (Picco) chain with a gauge of 0.050″ (1.3mm).

Strategic Advantages:

Extended Chain Life: Prevents premature wear and tear.
Improved Cutting Performance: Ensures smooth and efficient cutting.
Increased Safety: Reduces the risk of chain derailment and kickback.
Reduced Strain on Saw: Prevents the engine from overheating.

Cost and Skill Level:

Cost: No additional cost, just requires regular maintenance.
Skill Level: Beginner. Easy to learn and perform.

Pro Tip: When installing a new chain, run the saw at idle speed for a few minutes to allow the chain to stretch. Then, check and adjust the tension as needed.

3. File Like a Pro: Sharpen Your Chain for Peak Performance

A sharp chain is paramount for efficient and safe woodcutting. A dull chain forces you to apply more pressure, increasing the risk of kickback and putting unnecessary strain on the Stihl MS 172’s engine. Sharpening your chainsaw chain is a skill every chainsaw user should master.

Understanding Chainsaw Chain Sharpening:

Chainsaw chains are composed of cutting teeth, each with a specific angle and depth. Sharpening involves restoring these angles and depths to their original specifications, ensuring the teeth can efficiently slice through wood.

Tools You’ll Need:

Chainsaw File: Choose the correct file size for your chain. The Stihl MS 172 typically uses a 5/32″ (4.0mm) round file.
File Guide: A file guide helps you maintain the correct filing angle and depth.
Depth Gauge Tool: Used to check and adjust the depth gauges (also called rakers) on the chain.
Flat File: Used to lower the depth gauges.
Vise: To secure the chainsaw bar while sharpening.

Step-by-Step Guide to Chainsaw Chain Sharpening:

Safety First: Wear gloves to protect your hands. Ensure the saw is turned off and the chain brake is engaged.
Secure the Bar: Place the chainsaw bar in a vise to hold it securely.
Identify the Cutting Teeth: Examine the chain to identify the left-hand and right-hand cutting teeth. You’ll sharpen each type of tooth separately.
Position the File: Place the file guide on the chain, aligning it with the cutting tooth. The file should be positioned at the correct angle, typically around 30 degrees (check your chain manufacturer’s specifications).
Sharpen the Teeth: Using smooth, even strokes, file the cutting tooth from the inside out. Maintain the correct angle and depth. Count the number of strokes you use on each tooth to ensure consistency.
Repeat for All Teeth: Sharpen all the cutting teeth on the chain, alternating between left-hand and right-hand teeth.
Check the Depth Gauges: Use the depth gauge tool to check the height of the depth gauges. If they are too high, use the flat file to lower them. The correct depth gauge setting is typically around 0.025″ (0.635mm).

My Chainsaw Sharpening Journey:

I remember the first time I tried to sharpen a chainsaw chain. I didn’t use a file guide, and I ended up with a chain that was sharper in some places than others. The saw vibrated like crazy, and it was difficult to control. After that experience, I invested in a good file guide and took the time to learn the proper technique. Now, I can sharpen a chain in about 15 minutes, and the results are much better.

Measurements and Specifications:

File Size: 5/32″ (4.0mm) round file for the Stihl MS 172.
Filing Angle: Typically around 30 degrees.
Depth Gauge Setting: Typically around 0.025″ (0.635mm).

Strategic Advantages:

Improved Cutting Efficiency: A sharp chain cuts faster and easier.
Increased Safety: Reduces the risk of kickback.
Extended Chain Life: Prevents premature wear and tear.
Reduced Strain on Saw: Prevents the engine from bogging down.

Cost and Skill Level:

Cost: $20-$50 for sharpening tools.
Skill Level: Intermediate. Requires practice and attention to detail.

Pro Tip: After sharpening, run the saw at idle speed for a few minutes to allow the chain to wear in. Then, check and adjust the chain tension as needed.

4. Fuel and Oil Secrets: Keeping Your MS 172 Running Smoothly

The Stihl MS 172, like all two-stroke engines, relies on a precise mixture of fuel and oil for lubrication and optimal performance. Using the wrong fuel or oil can lead to engine damage, reduced power, and a shortened lifespan.

Understanding Fuel and Oil Requirements:

The Stihl MS 172 requires a mixture of gasoline and two-stroke oil. The gasoline provides the fuel for combustion, while the two-stroke oil lubricates the engine’s internal parts.

Fuel Recommendations:

Octane Rating: Use gasoline with an octane rating of 89 or higher (AKI method).
Ethanol Content: Limit ethanol content to 10% or less (E10). Ethanol can damage the engine’s fuel lines and seals.
Freshness: Use fresh gasoline. Gasoline can degrade over time, especially if it contains ethanol.

Oil Recommendations:

Two-Stroke Oil: Use a high-quality two-stroke oil specifically designed for air-cooled engines. Stihl recommends its own HP Ultra oil.
Mixing Ratio: The recommended mixing ratio is typically 50:1 (50 parts gasoline to 1 part oil). Always refer to your Stihl MS 172 owner’s manual for the correct mixing ratio.

Mixing Fuel and Oil:

Safety First: Mix fuel and oil in a well-ventilated area, away from sparks or flames.
Use a Fuel Can: Use a clean, approved fuel can specifically designed for gasoline.
Add Oil First: Pour the correct amount of two-stroke oil into the fuel can.
Add Gasoline: Add the correct amount of gasoline to the fuel can.
Mix Thoroughly: Close the fuel can tightly and shake it vigorously to mix the fuel and oil completely.

Bar and Chain Oil:

In addition to fuel and oil mixture, the Stihl MS 172 requires bar and chain oil to lubricate the chain and guide bar. This oil reduces friction, prevents overheating, and extends the life of the chain and bar.

Use a High-Quality Bar and Chain Oil: Stihl recommends its own bar and chain oil.
Check the Oil Level Regularly: Check the oil level in the oil tank before each use and refill as needed.
Adjust the Oil Flow: The Stihl MS 172 has an adjustable oil pump. Adjust the oil flow to match the cutting conditions.

My Fuel and Oil Mishap:

Early in my woodcutting days, I ran out of Stihl HP Ultra oil and, in a pinch, used some generic two-stroke oil I had lying around for my lawnmower. The saw ran rough, smoked excessively, and lost power. I quickly realized my mistake and drained the fuel tank. After refilling with the correct mixture, the saw ran like new again. This taught me the importance of using the correct fuel and oil.

Measurements and Specifications:

Fuel Octane Rating: 89 or higher (AKI method).
Ethanol Content: 10% or less (E10).
Mixing Ratio: Typically 50:1 (50 parts gasoline to 1 part oil).
Bar and Chain Oil Viscosity: Refer to your Stihl MS 172 owner’s manual for the recommended viscosity.

Strategic Advantages:

Extended Engine Life: Prevents premature wear and tear.
Improved Performance: Ensures smooth and efficient operation.
Reduced Emissions: Helps to reduce air pollution.
Warranty Compliance: Using the correct fuel and oil helps to maintain your warranty.

Cost and Skill Level:

Cost: Slightly higher cost for premium fuel and oil.
Skill Level: Beginner. Easy to learn and implement.

Pro Tip: Store fuel and oil in separate, clearly labeled containers. Use a fuel stabilizer to prevent gasoline from degrading during storage.

5. Safe Starting Techniques: Avoid Injury and Engine Flooding

Starting a chainsaw safely and efficiently is crucial for both your well-being and the longevity of the saw. Incorrect starting techniques can lead to injuries and damage to the engine. The Stihl MS 172, while relatively easy to start, requires a specific procedure to ensure a smooth and safe start.

Understanding Starting Procedures:

The Stihl MS 172 uses a recoil starter. This means you pull a cord to turn the engine over. The engine requires a proper mixture of fuel and air, as well as a spark, to start.

Safety First:

Clear the Area: Ensure there are no obstacles or people nearby.
Stable Footing: Stand on solid ground with a firm stance.
Chain Brake Engaged: Always engage the chain brake before starting the saw.

Starting Procedure (Cold Start):

Engage the Chain Brake: Pull the chain brake lever back towards the handle until it clicks into place.
Activate the Choke: Move the choke lever to the “full choke” position (usually indicated by a closed choke symbol).
Purge Bulb (if applicable): Some MS 172 models have a purge bulb. Press the purge bulb several times until fuel is visible in the bulb.
Starting Position: Place the saw on the ground with the guide bar and chain clear of any obstructions. Hold the front handle firmly with your left hand. Place your right foot firmly on the rear handle, providing stability.
Pull the Starter Cord: Grasp the starter handle firmly with your right hand. Pull the cord slowly until you feel resistance. Then, give it a sharp, full pull. Repeat until the engine attempts to start (usually indicated by a brief sputtering sound).
Move to Half Choke: Once the engine attempts to start, move the choke lever to the “half choke” position (usually indicated by a half-open choke symbol).
Continue Pulling: Continue pulling the starter cord until the engine starts and runs smoothly.
Disengage the Choke: Once the engine is running smoothly, gradually disengage the choke completely.

Starting Procedure (Warm Start):

If the engine is already warm, you may not need to use the choke. Follow these steps:

Engage the Chain Brake: Pull the chain brake lever back towards the handle until it clicks into place.
Starting Position: Place the saw on the ground with the guide bar and chain clear of any obstructions. Hold the front handle firmly with your left hand. Place your right foot firmly on the rear handle, providing stability.
Pull the Starter Cord: Grasp the starter handle firmly with your right hand. Pull the cord slowly until you feel resistance. Then, give it a sharp, full pull. Repeat until the engine starts and runs smoothly.

Troubleshooting Starting Problems:

Engine Won’t Start:
- Check the fuel level.
- Ensure the spark plug is clean and properly gapped.
- Make sure the choke is in the correct position.
- Check the air filter.
Engine Floods:
- Remove the spark plug and dry it off.
- Pull the starter cord several times with the choke off to clear the cylinder.
- Reinstall the spark plug and try starting the engine again.

My Starting Lesson:

I once flooded my Stihl MS 172 repeatedly while trying to start it on a cold morning. I kept pulling the cord with the choke fully engaged, not realizing I was pumping too much fuel into the cylinder. It took me a while to figure out how to clear the flood, and I learned the importance of following the correct starting procedure.

Measurements and Specifications:

Spark Plug Gap: Typically 0.5mm (0.020 inches). Refer to your Stihl MS 172 owner’s manual for the specific gap setting.
Starter Cord Length: The starter cord should be long enough to allow for a full, smooth pull.

Strategic Advantages:

Increased Safety: Prevents injuries from improper starting techniques.
Extended Engine Life: Prevents damage from flooding or excessive pulling.
Reduced Downtime: Ensures the saw starts quickly and reliably.

Cost and Skill Level:

Cost: No additional cost, just requires learning the correct technique.
Skill Level: Beginner. Easy to learn and practice.

Pro Tip: If the engine is difficult to start, try using a small amount of starting fluid (ether) sprayed into the air filter. This can help to prime the engine and get it running. However, use starting fluid sparingly, as excessive use can damage the engine.

By mastering these 5 pro woodcutting hacks, you’ll unlock the full potential of your Stihl MS 172 chainsaw. You’ll be able to cut more efficiently, safely, and with greater precision. Remember to always prioritize safety, maintain your saw properly, and practice these techniques regularly. Now, go out there and conquer that woodpile!

Stihl MS 172 Chainsaw Tips (5 Pro Woodcutting Hacks)