Stihl MS 170 Chain Replacement (5 Pro Tips for Smooth Cutting)

In recent years, I’ve observed a fascinating trend in the world of wood processing: a renewed focus on efficiency and sustainability. More and more people are recognizing that optimizing their wood cutting processes not only saves time and energy but also contributes to a healthier environment. Whether you’re a seasoned logger, a weekend firewood enthusiast, or somewhere in between, the Stihl MS 170 is a reliable workhorse that can help you tackle a variety of wood-cutting tasks. But even the best chainsaw is only as good as its chain.

Key Takeaways:

• Chain Selection is Crucial: Choosing the right chain for your Stihl MS 170 and the type of wood you’re cutting is paramount.
• Proper Tensioning Matters: Correct chain tension prevents premature wear and kickback.
• Sharpening is Essential: A sharp chain is a safe and efficient chain.
• Lubrication is Key: Regular lubrication extends chain and bar life.
• Regular Inspection Saves Time: Identifying issues early prevents costly repairs.

So, grab your gloves, and let’s dive in!

Stihl MS 170 Chain Replacement: 5 Pro Tips for Smooth Cutting

1. Chain Selection: Matching the Chain to the Task

I can’t stress this enough: the first step to smooth cutting is selecting the right chain for your Stihl MS 170. It’s not a one-size-fits-all situation. Using the wrong chain can lead to poor performance, increased wear and tear, and even dangerous kickback.

Understanding Chain Types

Let’s break down the common chain types compatible with the Stihl MS 170:

• Low-Profile Chains (Picco Micro 3 – PM3): These chains are designed for safety and ease of use. They feature a smaller cutter and reduced kickback potential, making them ideal for beginners or homeowners who primarily cut small branches and firewood. I often recommend these for their forgiving nature.
• Standard Chains (Rapid Micro – RM): These chains offer a good balance of cutting speed and durability. They’re suitable for a wider range of tasks, including felling small trees and cutting larger firewood pieces.
• Full-Chisel Chains (Rapid Super – RS): These chains are designed for speed and efficiency. They feature a more aggressive cutter that slices through wood quickly. However, they require more experience and are more prone to kickback. I generally advise against these for novice users.

Data Point: According to a study by the Oregon Cutting Systems Division, using a low-profile chain can reduce kickback energy by up to 25% compared to a full-chisel chain.

Matching the Chain to the Wood

The type of wood you’re cutting also plays a crucial role in chain selection.

• Softwoods (Pine, Fir, Spruce): Softwoods are relatively easy to cut and can be handled by most chain types. However, I’ve found that a low-profile or standard chain works best to prevent the chain from bogging down.
• Hardwoods (Oak, Maple, Ash): Hardwoods require a more aggressive chain. A standard or full-chisel chain will provide the necessary cutting power. However, be mindful of kickback, especially with a full-chisel chain. I always recommend sharpening your chain more frequently when cutting hardwoods, as they tend to dull the cutters faster.
• Dirty or Knotty Wood: If you’re cutting wood that’s dirty, sandy, or full of knots, I strongly recommend using a chain with carbide-tipped cutters. These chains are more resistant to abrasion and can maintain their sharpness for longer. Yes, they are more expensive, but they will save you time and money in the long run.

Personal Story: I once spent an entire day trying to cut through a pile of old, knotty oak firewood with a standard chain. By the end of the day, my chain was dull, my saw was overheating, and I had barely made a dent in the pile. The next day, I switched to a carbide-tipped chain, and the difference was night and day. I finished the job in a fraction of the time with much less effort.

Determining the Correct Chain Size

Once you’ve chosen the right chain type, you need to determine the correct size for your Stihl MS 170. This involves three key measurements:

• Pitch: The distance between any three consecutive rivets divided by two. The Stihl MS 170 typically uses a 3/8″ low profile pitch.
• Gauge: The thickness of the drive links that fit into the guide bar groove. The Stihl MS 170 typically uses a .050″ gauge.
• Drive Link Count: The number of drive links in the chain. This number will vary depending on the length of your guide bar. Refer to your owner’s manual or the guide bar itself to determine the correct drive link count.

Practical Tip: Always double-check these measurements before purchasing a new chain. Using the wrong size chain can damage your chainsaw and create a dangerous situation.

2. Proper Tensioning: The Key to Chain Longevity

Proper chain tension is absolutely crucial for smooth cutting, chain longevity, and operator safety. A chain that’s too loose can derail from the guide bar, while a chain that’s too tight can cause excessive wear and tear on the bar, chain, and sprocket.

How to Tension Your Chain

Here’s my step-by-step guide to tensioning your Stihl MS 170 chain:

1. Loosen the Bar Nuts: Using the wrench provided with your chainsaw, loosen the bar nuts that hold the guide bar in place. Don’t remove the nuts completely, just loosen them enough so that you can move the bar.
2. Locate the Tensioning Screw: The tensioning screw is typically located on the side of the chainsaw, near the guide bar.
3. Adjust the Tension: Use a screwdriver or the wrench to turn the tensioning screw. Turning the screw clockwise will tighten the chain, while turning it counterclockwise will loosen the chain.
4. Check the Tension: The chain should fit snugly against the underside of the guide bar. You should be able to pull the chain away from the bar slightly (about 1/8 inch) but it should snap back into place when released.
5. Tighten the Bar Nuts: Once you’ve achieved the correct tension, tighten the bar nuts securely.

Important Note: Always tension your chain with the chainsaw turned off and the chain brake engaged.

Hot vs. Cold Tensioning

Chain tension changes as the chain heats up during use. Therefore, it’s important to understand the difference between hot and cold tensioning.

• Cold Tensioning: This is the tension you set when the chain is cool. I recommend setting the chain slightly looser than you think it should be when cold, as it will tighten up as it heats up.
• Hot Tensioning: This is the tension you check after the chain has been used for a few minutes. The chain should still be snug against the bar but not so tight that it’s difficult to pull around the bar by hand. If the chain is too tight, loosen the bar nuts and adjust the tensioning screw accordingly.

Expert Insight: According to Stihl’s technical manual, proper chain tension is essential for preventing chain derailment and extending the life of the guide bar.

Common Tensioning Mistakes

Here are some common mistakes I see people make when tensioning their chainsaw chain:

• Over-Tensioning: This is the most common mistake. Over-tensioning can cause excessive wear and tear on the bar, chain, and sprocket. It can also lead to the chain breaking or derailing.
• Under-Tensioning: This is also a problem. Under-tensioning can cause the chain to derail from the bar, which can be dangerous.
• Ignoring Hot Tension: Failing to check and adjust the tension after the chain has heated up can lead to problems.

Case Study: A local arborist I know had a recurring problem with his chainsaw chains breaking prematurely. After observing his work, I realized he was over-tensioning his chains. I advised him to loosen the tension slightly, and his chain breakage problem disappeared.

3. Sharpening is Essential: Keeping Your Chain in Top Condition

A sharp chain is not only more efficient but also safer. A dull chain requires more force to cut, which can increase the risk of kickback. Sharpening your chain regularly is one of the most important things you can do to maintain your chainsaw.

When to Sharpen

How often should you sharpen your chain? Here are some signs that your chain needs sharpening:

• The Saw Cuts Slowly: If your saw is taking longer than usual to cut through wood, it’s probably time to sharpen the chain.
• The Saw Produces Dust Instead of Chips: A sharp chain produces long, stringy chips of wood. A dull chain produces fine dust.
• The Saw Smokes: A dull chain creates more friction, which can cause the saw to smoke.
• The Saw Pulls to One Side: If the saw is pulling to one side while cutting, it could be a sign that the cutters on one side of the chain are duller than the cutters on the other side.

Data Point: Studies have shown that a sharp chain can increase cutting efficiency by up to 50% compared to a dull chain.

Sharpening Tools

There are several different tools you can use to sharpen your chainsaw chain:

• Round File and File Guide: This is the most common and affordable method. It involves using a round file to sharpen each cutter individually, using a file guide to maintain the correct angle and depth.
• Electric Chain Sharpener: This is a faster and more precise method. It uses a grinding wheel to sharpen the cutters. However, electric sharpeners can be expensive.
• Handheld Chain Sharpener: This is a portable and convenient option. It uses a small grinding wheel powered by a battery or electricity.

Personal Recommendation: I prefer using a round file and file guide for sharpening my chains. It takes a little practice, but it allows me to maintain a consistent and precise edge on each cutter.

Sharpening Procedure

Here’s my step-by-step guide to sharpening your chainsaw chain using a round file and file guide:

1. Secure the Chain: Place the chainsaw in a vise or clamp to hold it securely.
2. Identify the Correct File Size: The correct file size will depend on the pitch of your chain. Refer to your owner’s manual or the chain manufacturer’s recommendations.
3. Use a File Guide: Place the file guide on the chain, aligning the arrows with the direction of chain rotation.
4. File Each Cutter: Using smooth, even strokes, file each cutter from the inside out. Maintain the correct angle and depth as indicated by the file guide.
5. Check the Depth Gauges: After sharpening the cutters, check the depth gauges (the small metal tabs in front of each cutter). If the depth gauges are too high, file them down using a flat file. The depth gauges should be slightly lower than the cutters.
6. Repeat for All Cutters: Repeat the process for all cutters on the chain.

Practical Tip: Pay close attention to the angle and depth when sharpening your chain. Maintaining the correct angles is essential for optimal cutting performance.

Common Sharpening Mistakes

Here are some common mistakes I see people make when sharpening their chainsaw chains:

• Using the Wrong File Size: Using the wrong file size can damage the cutters.
• Filing at the Wrong Angle: Filing at the wrong angle can reduce cutting efficiency and increase the risk of kickback.
• Not Checking the Depth Gauges: Neglecting to check and adjust the depth gauges can cause the chain to cut poorly.
• Over-Sharpening: Over-sharpening can weaken the cutters and reduce their lifespan.

Expert Quote: According to Husqvarna’s chainsaw maintenance guide, a properly sharpened chain can significantly improve cutting performance and reduce operator fatigue.

4. Lubrication is Key: Protecting Your Chain and Bar

Proper lubrication is essential for extending the life of your chainsaw chain and guide bar. Without adequate lubrication, the chain and bar will quickly overheat and wear out.

Types of Chain Oil

There are two main types of chain oil:

• Petroleum-Based Chain Oil: This is the most common and affordable type of chain oil. It provides good lubrication and helps to cool the chain and bar.
• Vegetable-Based Chain Oil: This is a more environmentally friendly option. It’s biodegradable and less toxic than petroleum-based oil. However, vegetable-based oil can be more expensive.

Data Point: A study by the USDA Forest Service found that using vegetable-based chain oil can reduce environmental impact by up to 75% compared to petroleum-based oil.

How to Lubricate Your Chain

Here’s my step-by-step guide to lubricating your chainsaw chain:

1. Fill the Oil Reservoir: Before each use, check the oil reservoir and fill it with chain oil.
2. Adjust the Oiler: Most chainsaws have an adjustable oiler that allows you to control the amount of oil that’s delivered to the chain. Adjust the oiler so that the chain is adequately lubricated without excessive oil spray.
3. Check the Oil Flow: While the chainsaw is running, check the oil flow to ensure that the chain is being properly lubricated. You should see a light spray of oil coming off the chain.
4. Clean the Oiler: Regularly clean the oiler to prevent clogs and ensure proper oil flow.

Practical Tip: Use a high-quality chain oil specifically designed for chainsaws. Avoid using motor oil or other substitutes, as they may not provide adequate lubrication.

Signs of Insufficient Lubrication

Here are some signs that your chain is not being properly lubricated:

• The Chain Smokes: Insufficient lubrication can cause the chain to overheat and smoke.
• The Bar Turns Blue: Overheating can also cause the guide bar to turn blue.
• The Chain and Bar Wear Out Quickly: Insufficient lubrication can accelerate wear and tear on the chain and bar.

Personal Story: I once neglected to check the oil reservoir on my chainsaw before starting a large firewood cutting project. By the end of the day, my chain was smoking, my bar was blue, and my chain was stretched beyond repair. I learned my lesson the hard way: always check the oil!

Common Lubrication Mistakes

Here are some common mistakes I see people make when lubricating their chainsaw chains:

• Using the Wrong Oil: Using the wrong type of oil can damage the chain and bar.
• Not Checking the Oil Level: Failing to check the oil level can lead to insufficient lubrication.
• Not Adjusting the Oiler: Not adjusting the oiler can result in either insufficient or excessive lubrication.
• Not Cleaning the Oiler: Neglecting to clean the oiler can cause clogs and reduce oil flow.

Expert Insight: According to Oregon’s chain lubrication guide, proper lubrication can extend the life of your chainsaw chain and guide bar by up to 50%.

5. Regular Inspection Saves Time: Catching Problems Early

Regular inspection of your chainsaw chain and guide bar can help you identify potential problems before they lead to costly repairs or accidents.

What to Inspect

Here’s what you should inspect on a regular basis:

• Chain Condition: Check the chain for damage, such as cracked or broken cutters, loose rivets, or stretched links.
• Bar Condition: Check the guide bar for wear, damage, or burrs.
• Sprocket Condition: Check the sprocket for wear or damage.
• Tension: Check the chain tension and adjust as needed.
• Lubrication: Check the oil level and oil flow.

Data Point: A study by the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) found that regular inspection and maintenance can reduce chainsaw-related injuries by up to 20%.

How to Inspect

Here’s how to inspect your chainsaw chain and guide bar:

1. Turn Off the Saw: Always turn off the chainsaw and engage the chain brake before inspecting it.
2. Visually Inspect the Chain: Look for any signs of damage, such as cracked or broken cutters, loose rivets, or stretched links.
3. Check the Bar for Wear: Run your finger along the guide bar groove. If you feel any burrs or uneven wear, the bar may need to be dressed or replaced.
4. Check the Sprocket: Remove the chain and guide bar and inspect the sprocket for wear or damage. Replace the sprocket if it’s worn or damaged.
5. Check the Tension: Check the chain tension and adjust as needed.
6. Check the Lubrication: Check the oil level and oil flow.

Practical Tip: Keep a log of your chainsaw maintenance activities. This will help you track when you last sharpened the chain, replaced the bar, or performed other maintenance tasks.

Common Problems and Solutions

Here are some common problems you may encounter during your inspection:

• Cracked or Broken Cutters: Replace the chain.
• Loose Rivets: Replace the chain.
• Stretched Links: Replace the chain.
• Worn or Damaged Bar: Dress the bar or replace it.
• Worn or Damaged Sprocket: Replace the sprocket.
• Insufficient Lubrication: Adjust the oiler or clean the oiler.

Personal Story: I once noticed that my chainsaw chain was cutting unevenly. After inspecting the chain, I discovered that one of the cutters was cracked. I replaced the chain immediately, preventing further damage to the saw and ensuring my safety.

Expert Advice

• Replace the Chain Regularly: Even with proper maintenance, chainsaw chains eventually wear out. I recommend replacing your chain every year or two, depending on how frequently you use your saw.
• Dress the Bar Regularly: Dressing the guide bar can help to remove burrs and uneven wear, extending its life.
• Replace the Sprocket Regularly: Replacing the sprocket can help to prevent chain slippage and improve cutting performance.

Actionable Conclusion:

By following these 5 pro tips, you can ensure smooth cutting, extend the life of your Stihl MS 170 chainsaw, and improve your overall wood processing efficiency. Remember, chain selection, proper tensioning, regular sharpening, adequate lubrication, and regular inspection are all essential for safe and efficient chainsaw operation.

Now, I encourage you to go out and put these tips into practice. Sharpen your chain, adjust the tension, and get back to cutting! And remember, safety always comes first. Wear appropriate safety gear, including gloves, eye protection, and hearing protection. Happy cutting!

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