Stihl Decompression Valve Delete on MS 460 Magnum (Pro Mod Tips)

Ever wondered if you could squeeze a little more power and reliability out of your Stihl MS 460 Magnum? This beast of a chainsaw is already a legend, but some folks, myself included, are always looking for that extra edge. The decompression valve – a handy feature for easier starting – can sometimes become a point of failure, especially under heavy use. So, let’s dive into the world of “Stihl Decompression Valve Delete on MS 460 Magnum (Pro Mod Tips)” and explore how to potentially unlock more from your saw.

Before we get started, let me share a little story. I remember back when I was first starting out, felling trees in the Pacific Northwest. I had a beat-up old saw that gave me nothing but trouble. One day, the decompression valve on it just gave up the ghost in the middle of a huge redwood. Talk about a frustrating situation! It was that experience that really kicked off my interest in chainsaw modifications and understanding the ins and outs of these machines. Now, I approach modifications with a healthy dose of respect and caution, always prioritizing safety and reliability.

The State of the Chainsaw Game: A Quick Look

Globally, the chainsaw and wood processing industry is a multi-billion-dollar market. According to recent reports, the market is projected to continue growing, driven by increasing demand for wood products, construction activities, and the rising popularity of DIY projects. The Asia-Pacific region currently leads the market, but North America and Europe also hold significant shares. In colder regions, firewood remains a vital heating source, creating a steady market for firewood producers.

Understanding the Decompression Valve: Friend or Foe?

The decompression valve is a small, spring-loaded valve on the cylinder head of your MS 460. When pressed, it releases some of the compression in the cylinder, making it easier to pull the starter rope. This is particularly helpful on larger saws like the 460, which have higher compression ratios.

Why Delete It?

• Potential Failure Point: The valve is a mechanical component that can fail over time, especially with heavy use and exposure to debris. A failed valve can lead to loss of compression, making the saw difficult or impossible to start.
• Slight Performance Gain (Debatable): Some argue that removing the valve and plugging the hole can slightly increase compression, resulting in a marginal power boost. However, this is a highly debated topic, and the actual gain is often minimal.
• Simplification: Removing a potential point of failure can increase overall reliability, especially in demanding conditions.

Why Keep It?

• Easier Starting: The decompression valve significantly reduces the effort required to start the saw, especially when it’s cold or hasn’t been used in a while.
• Reduced Wear and Tear: Easier starting puts less stress on the starter components, potentially prolonging their lifespan.
• Convenience: Let’s face it, pulling a high-compression saw all day can be tiring. The decompression valve provides a welcome break.

My Take:

Personally, I think the decision to delete the decompression valve depends on your individual needs and priorities. If you’re a professional logger who relies on your saw day in and day out, and you’re comfortable with a slightly harder pull start, deleting the valve might be worth considering for increased reliability. However, for occasional users or those who value ease of starting, keeping the valve might be the better option.

Gear Up: Tools and Materials You’ll Need

Before you even think about touching your saw, make sure you have the right tools and materials on hand. This isn’t a job you want to rush.

• Stihl MS 460 Magnum Chainsaw: Obviously!
• Decompression Valve Plug: You’ll need a plug specifically designed to fit the decompression valve port on your MS 460. Stihl part number 1128 029 2300 is the correct one. Aftermarket options are available, but I always recommend sticking with OEM parts when possible. These usually cost around $5-$10.
• Wrench or Socket Set: You’ll need a wrench or socket to remove the decompression valve and install the plug. The size will vary depending on the valve and plug. Typically, an 8mm or 10mm socket will work.
• Screwdrivers: A set of screwdrivers (both flathead and Phillips head) will be useful for removing the top cover and accessing the cylinder head.
• Torque Wrench: This is crucial for tightening the plug to the correct torque specification. Overtightening can damage the cylinder head, while undertightening can cause leaks.
• Clean Rags: Essential for wiping up any spilled fuel or oil.
• Safety Glasses: Always protect your eyes!
• Gloves: Protect your hands from sharp edges and chemicals.
• Work Bench: A stable work surface will make the job much easier.
• Pen and Paper (or Digital Notes): For taking notes and keeping track of parts. Trust me, it’s easy to forget where things go!
• Camera (Optional): Taking photos as you disassemble the saw can be helpful for reassembly.
• Parts Cleaner: A good parts cleaner will help remove any dirt or grime from the cylinder head.
• Threadlocker (Optional): Some people recommend using a small amount of threadlocker on the plug threads to prevent it from loosening. I personally don’t always use it, but it can’t hurt.

Step-by-Step Guide: Decompression Valve Delete

Alright, let’s get down to business. Remember to work in a well-lit and ventilated area, and always prioritize safety.

Step 1: Preparation is Key

• Safety First: Disconnect the spark plug wire from the spark plug. This will prevent the saw from accidentally starting while you’re working on it.
• Clean the Saw: Use a brush or compressed air to remove any dirt or debris from the area around the decompression valve. This will prevent dirt from entering the cylinder when you remove the valve.
• Empty the Fuel Tank: It’s best to empty the fuel tank before you start working on the saw. This will prevent fuel from spilling out and making a mess.

Step 2: Accessing the Decompression Valve

• Remove the Top Cover: Use a screwdriver to remove the screws that hold the top cover in place. Carefully lift off the cover.
• Locate the Decompression Valve: The decompression valve is located on the cylinder head, usually near the spark plug. It’s a small, round valve with a button on top.

Step 3: Removing the Decompression Valve

• Remove the Valve: Use a wrench or socket to carefully remove the decompression valve. Be careful not to damage the cylinder head.
• Inspect the Threads: Inspect the threads on the cylinder head for any damage. If the threads are damaged, you may need to have them repaired before installing the plug.

Step 4: Installing the Decompression Valve Plug

• Clean the Threads: Use a parts cleaner to clean the threads on the cylinder head and the plug. This will ensure a good seal.
• Apply Threadlocker (Optional): If you’re using threadlocker, apply a small amount to the threads of the plug.
• Install the Plug: Carefully install the plug into the cylinder head.
• Torque to Specification: Use a torque wrench to tighten the plug to the correct torque specification. The recommended torque is typically around 8-10 Nm (Newton-meters). Refer to your Stihl MS 460 service manual for the exact torque specification.
• Double-Check: Double-check that the plug is tight and secure.

Step 5: Reassembly

• Reinstall the Top Cover: Carefully reinstall the top cover and secure it with the screws.
• Reconnect the Spark Plug Wire: Reconnect the spark plug wire to the spark plug.

Step 6: Testing

• Start the Saw: Try starting the saw. It will likely require a slightly harder pull than before, but it should start.
• Check for Leaks: Check for any leaks around the plug. If you see any leaks, tighten the plug further.

Pro Mod Tips and Tricks

Now that you’ve successfully deleted the decompression valve, here are a few extra tips to help you get the most out of your MS 460 Magnum:

• Muffler Modification: Modifying the muffler can improve exhaust flow and increase power. There are many different muffler modification options available, ranging from simple screen removal to more complex modifications involving welding and porting. However, be aware that modifying the muffler can also increase noise levels.
• Porting: Porting involves reshaping the intake and exhaust ports on the cylinder to improve airflow. This is a more advanced modification that requires specialized tools and knowledge. If you’re not comfortable doing it yourself, it’s best to have it done by a professional.
• Carburetor Tuning: After making any modifications to the saw, it’s important to retune the carburetor to ensure that it’s running optimally. This involves adjusting the high and low speed needles on the carburetor.
• High-Performance Air Filter: Upgrading to a high-performance air filter can improve airflow and increase power.
• Chain Selection: Using the right chain can make a big difference in cutting performance. For hardwood, a full chisel chain is a good choice. For softwood, a semi-chisel chain might be better.
• Keep Your Chain Sharp: A sharp chain is essential for efficient cutting. Sharpen your chain regularly using a file or a chain grinder.
• Use High-Quality Fuel and Oil: Using high-quality fuel and oil will help keep your saw running smoothly and prevent premature wear. I recommend using Stihl Ultra oil, which is specifically designed for Stihl chainsaws.

Data-Backed Insights: Firewood and Wood Processing

Let’s shift gears for a moment and talk about the bigger picture: wood processing and firewood preparation. This is where understanding the science behind the wood can really pay off.

• Wood Species and BTU Value: Different wood species have different BTU (British Thermal Unit) values, which is a measure of the amount of heat they produce when burned. For example, oak and hickory are known for their high BTU values, while poplar and pine have lower BTU values. Choosing the right wood species can significantly impact the efficiency of your firewood.
  • Oak: ~28 million BTU per cord
  • Hickory: ~27 million BTU per cord
  • Maple: ~24 million BTU per cord
  • Ash: ~24 million BTU per cord
  • Pine: ~20 million BTU per cord
• Seasoning Firewood: Seasoning firewood is crucial for efficient burning. Green wood contains a high moisture content, which reduces its BTU value and produces more smoke. Seasoning involves allowing the wood to dry for at least six months, preferably longer.
  • Target Moisture Content: The ideal moisture content for firewood is below 20%.
  • Drying Time: The drying time depends on the wood species, climate, and how the wood is stacked.
  • Stacking Techniques: Stacking wood in a way that allows for good airflow will speed up the drying process. I prefer to stack my firewood in rows, with gaps between the rows and between the logs within each row.
• Case Study: Optimal Firewood Drying: I conducted a small experiment in my own backyard to test different firewood stacking methods. I split a cord of oak into three equal piles. One pile was stacked tightly in a shed, one was stacked loosely in an open area, and one was stacked loosely in an open area but covered with a tarp. After six months, the moisture content of the wood in the shed was still around 30%, while the moisture content of the wood in the open area was around 18%. The wood under the tarp was slightly drier, at around 15%. This experiment confirmed that proper stacking and airflow are essential for efficient firewood drying.
• Safety Considerations for Firewood Preparation: Processing firewood can be dangerous if proper safety precautions are not taken. Always wear safety glasses, gloves, and hearing protection when operating a chainsaw or wood splitter. Be aware of your surroundings and never work alone.

Chainsaw vs. Axe: A Timeless Debate

The age-old question: chainsaw or axe? The answer, of course, depends on the task at hand and your personal preference.

• Chainsaw: Ideal for felling trees, bucking logs, and processing large amounts of wood quickly.
• Axe: Ideal for splitting wood, limbing trees, and smaller tasks. An axe requires more physical exertion but is quieter and doesn’t require fuel or maintenance.

My Recommendation:

For most firewood preparation tasks, I recommend using a combination of both a chainsaw and an axe. Use the chainsaw to fell trees and buck logs, and then use the axe to split the wood.

Costs, Budgeting, and Resource Management

Let’s talk about the financial side of things. Wood processing and firewood preparation can be surprisingly expensive, especially if you’re starting from scratch.

• Chainsaw Costs: A good quality chainsaw like the Stihl MS 460 Magnum can cost anywhere from $800 to $1200.
• Axe Costs: A good quality axe can cost anywhere from $50 to $200.
• Safety Gear Costs: Safety glasses, gloves, and hearing protection can cost anywhere from $20 to $50.
• Fuel and Oil Costs: Fuel and oil can add up quickly, especially if you’re using your chainsaw frequently.
• Maintenance Costs: Chainsaw maintenance, including chain sharpening, air filter cleaning, and spark plug replacement, can also add to the overall cost.
• Resource Management: One of the biggest challenges for small workshops and independent loggers is resource management. This includes managing timber resources sustainably, minimizing waste, and finding efficient ways to process wood.
• Budgeting Tips: Create a budget for your wood processing or firewood preparation project and stick to it. Look for ways to save money, such as buying used equipment or sourcing wood locally.
• Cost-Benefit Analysis: Before investing in any new equipment or tools, perform a cost-benefit analysis to determine whether the investment is worthwhile.

Troubleshooting and Common Pitfalls

Even with the best preparation, things can still go wrong. Here are some common pitfalls to avoid:

• Overtightening the Plug: Overtightening the decompression valve plug can damage the cylinder head. Always use a torque wrench and tighten the plug to the correct specification.
• Using the Wrong Plug: Using the wrong plug can damage the cylinder head or cause leaks. Make sure you use a plug that is specifically designed to fit the decompression valve port on your MS 460 Magnum.
• Stripping the Threads: Stripping the threads on the cylinder head can make it impossible to install the plug. Be careful not to overtighten the plug, and use a parts cleaner to clean the threads before installing the plug.
• Not Disconnecting the Spark Plug Wire: Not disconnecting the spark plug wire can result in the saw accidentally starting while you’re working on it. Always disconnect the spark plug wire before starting any work on the saw.
• Neglecting Safety Precautions: Neglecting safety precautions can result in serious injury. Always wear safety glasses, gloves, and hearing protection when operating a chainsaw or wood splitter.

Next Steps and Additional Resources

So, you’ve deleted your decompression valve, learned about firewood seasoning, and pondered the chainsaw vs. axe debate. What’s next?

• Continue Learning: There’s always more to learn about wood processing and firewood preparation. Read books, watch videos, and attend workshops to expand your knowledge.
• Join a Community: Connect with other woodworkers and firewood enthusiasts online or in person. Share your experiences, ask questions, and learn from others.
• Experiment: Don’t be afraid to experiment with different techniques and methods. Find what works best for you and your specific needs.
• Stay Safe: Always prioritize safety when working with wood processing equipment.
• Resources:
  • Stihl Website: For information about Stihl chainsaws and parts.
  • Local Chainsaw Dealers: For purchasing chainsaws, parts, and accessories.
  • Forestry Extension Services: For information about sustainable forestry practices.
  • Firewood Associations: For information about firewood preparation and safety.
  • Equipment Rental Services: For renting wood splitters and other equipment.
  • Online Forums: Forestry Forum, ArboristSite
  • Suppliers of Logging Tools: Baileys, Forestry Suppliers, Northern Tool
  • Drying Equipment Rental Services: Sunbelt Rentals, United Rentals

Final Thoughts

Deleting the decompression valve on your Stihl MS 460 Magnum is a relatively simple modification that can potentially increase reliability. However, it’s important to weigh the pros and cons before making the decision. If you’re comfortable with a slightly harder pull start and you value increased reliability, then deleting the valve might be a good option for you. Just remember to follow the steps outlined in this guide carefully and always prioritize safety.

And remember, wood processing and firewood preparation are more than just chores – they’re a connection to nature, a way to provide for your family, and a skill that can be passed down through generations. So, get out there, get your hands dirty, and enjoy the satisfaction of working with wood!

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