Stihl Chainsaw MS660 Tips for Cutting Large Trees (5 Pro Tricks)

Let’s dive into the world of felling massive trees with the Stihl MS660!

I’ve spent years in the field, wrestling with timber giants, and I know the sheer power – and responsibility – that comes with wielding a chainsaw like the MS660. It’s not just about brute force; it’s about finesse, understanding wood science, and using the right techniques to ensure safety and efficiency. In this article, I’m going to share five pro tricks that I’ve learned over the years to help you master the art of cutting large trees with your MS660. We will cover everything from wood anatomy to tool maintenance to project execution.

Stihl Chainsaw MS660 Tips for Cutting Large Trees (5 Pro Tricks)

The Stihl MS660 is a beast, no doubt about it. But remember, power without control is dangerous. These tips are designed to help you harness that power safely and effectively.

1. Mastering Wood Anatomy and Properties: Know Your Enemy (and Your Friend)

Before you even think about firing up your MS660, you need to understand what you’re cutting. Wood isn’t just wood; it’s a complex material with varying densities, grain patterns, and moisture content. This knowledge is crucial for predicting how the tree will react during the cut, minimizing the risk of kickback, and optimizing your cutting strategy.

Hardwood vs. Softwood:

• Hardwoods: Typically deciduous trees like oak, maple, and beech. They are denser, have tighter grain, and are generally more challenging to cut. Hardwoods are prized for their strength and durability, making them ideal for furniture, flooring, and construction. The higher density also translates to a longer burn time when used as firewood.
• Softwoods: Usually coniferous trees like pine, fir, and spruce. They are less dense, have a more open grain, and are easier to cut. Softwoods are commonly used for construction framing, paper production, and general woodworking. They ignite more easily and burn faster than hardwoods.

Grain Patterns: The direction of the wood fibers significantly impacts cutting. Cutting with the grain is easier than cutting against it. Watch out for knots, which can change the grain direction unpredictably and increase the risk of binding.

Moisture Content:

• Freshly Cut (Green) Wood: Has a high moisture content (often 50% or more). Green wood is heavier, more difficult to cut, and prone to warping and cracking as it dries.
• Seasoned Wood: Has a moisture content of 20% or less. Seasoned wood is lighter, easier to cut, and more stable. For firewood, seasoning is essential to improve burning efficiency and reduce smoke.

Why This Matters:

Knowing the wood type and moisture content allows you to choose the appropriate chain type, adjust your cutting technique, and anticipate potential hazards. For example, cutting green hardwood requires a more aggressive chain and a slower, more deliberate approach than cutting dry softwood.

Personal Story: I once tackled a massive oak tree that had fallen during a storm. I underestimated its density and moisture content and quickly dulled my chain. After switching to a more aggressive ripping chain and adjusting my cutting speed, I was able to make clean, efficient cuts. That experience taught me the importance of respecting the wood and adapting my technique accordingly.

Data Point: A study by the Forest Products Laboratory found that the energy required to cut green hardwood can be up to 50% higher than cutting seasoned hardwood.

2. Chainsaw and Logging Tool Selection and Maintenance Best Practices: Your Arsenal of Awesome

The MS660 is a powerful tool, but it’s only as good as its operator and its maintenance. Proper tool selection and maintenance are crucial for safety, efficiency, and the longevity of your equipment.

Chain Selection:

• Full Chisel: Aggressive cutting, ideal for clean wood. Prone to kickback in dirty or knotty wood.
• Semi-Chisel: More forgiving than full chisel, suitable for a wider range of conditions.
• Ripping Chain: Designed for cutting with the grain, ideal for milling lumber.

Bar Length: Choose a bar length appropriate for the size of the trees you’re cutting. A bar that’s too short will limit your reach, while a bar that’s too long can be unwieldy.

Felling Wedges: Essential for controlling the direction of the fall. Plastic wedges are lighter and safer than metal wedges, as they won’t damage your chain if accidentally hit.

Felling Axe or Maul: Used to drive wedges and to clear brush around the base of the tree.

Measuring Tape: For accurate bucking (cutting logs to length).

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE):

• Helmet: Protects your head from falling debris.
• Eye Protection: Safety glasses or a face shield to protect your eyes from flying chips.
• Hearing Protection: Earplugs or earmuffs to prevent hearing damage.
• Chainsaw Chaps: Protect your legs from accidental cuts.
• Gloves: Provide a better grip and protect your hands.
• Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and chainsaw accidents.

Maintenance:

• Sharpening: A sharp chain is essential for safe and efficient cutting. Learn to sharpen your chain with a file or a chain grinder.
• Cleaning: Regularly clean your chainsaw to remove sawdust and debris.
• Lubrication: Keep the chain properly lubricated to reduce friction and wear.
• Air Filter: Clean or replace the air filter regularly to ensure proper engine performance.
• Spark Plug: Replace the spark plug annually or as needed.
• Fuel Mixture: Use the correct fuel mixture (typically 50:1) to prevent engine damage.

Why This Matters:

A well-maintained chainsaw is safer, more efficient, and lasts longer. Investing in quality PPE is essential for protecting yourself from injury.

Data Point: Studies have shown that a dull chain can increase cutting time by up to 50% and significantly increase the risk of kickback.

Pro Tip: I always carry a spare chain and a sharpening kit in the field. That way, I can quickly replace a dull chain and keep working without interruption.

3. The Art of the Felling Cut: Precision and Control

The felling cut is the most critical part of the process. A properly executed felling cut will ensure that the tree falls in the desired direction, minimizing the risk of damage to property or injury to yourself or others.

Planning the Fall:

• Assess the Tree: Look for lean, wind direction, and any obstacles in the path of the fall.
• Choose a Felling Direction: Select a direction that is clear of obstacles and that will minimize the risk of damage.
• Clear the Area: Remove any brush or debris around the base of the tree.
• Plan Your Escape Route: Identify a clear path away from the falling tree.

The Felling Cut Sequence:

1. Notch Cut (Undercut): This is a wedge-shaped cut that determines the direction of the fall. The notch should be about 1/3 of the tree’s diameter. The angle of the notch should be about 45 degrees.
2. Hinge: The hinge is the uncut wood between the notch and the back cut. It controls the fall of the tree and prevents it from twisting or kicking back. The hinge should be about 10% of the tree’s diameter.
3. Back Cut: This is a horizontal cut made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch. The back cut should be slightly higher than the notch cut.
4. Driving Wedges: As you complete the back cut, insert felling wedges to help control the fall and prevent the tree from pinching the bar.
5. The Fall: As the tree begins to fall, move quickly and safely away from the base of the tree.

Dealing with Leaners:

Leaners are trees that are leaning in a particular direction. They can be more challenging to fell because they are more likely to fall in the direction of the lean. Use wedges and ropes to help control the fall of leaners.

Dealing with Back Leaners:

Back leaners are trees that are leaning away from the desired felling direction. They are the most dangerous type of tree to fell because they are more likely to kick back. Use extreme caution when felling back leaners. Consider using a winch or a cable puller to help pull the tree in the desired direction.

Personal Story: I was once felling a large pine tree that had a slight back lean. I underestimated the lean and didn’t use enough wedges. As I completed the back cut, the tree started to kick back. I was able to get out of the way just in time, but the experience taught me a valuable lesson about the importance of respecting the power of trees.

Data Point: According to the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA), tree felling is one of the most dangerous occupations in the United States. Proper training and adherence to safety procedures are essential for preventing accidents.

Pro Tip: Always take your time and think through each step of the felling process. Don’t rush. It’s better to be slow and safe than fast and injured.

4. Bucking Techniques: Turning Trees into Usable Logs

Once the tree is on the ground, the next step is to buck it into usable logs. Bucking is the process of cutting the trunk into shorter lengths.

Planning the Cuts:

• Identify Defects: Look for knots, rot, and other defects that may affect the quality of the logs.
• Determine Log Lengths: Decide on the desired length of the logs based on their intended use (e.g., lumber, firewood).
• Plan Your Cuts: Plan your cuts to minimize waste and maximize the yield of usable wood.

Bucking Techniques:

• Limbing: Remove all the branches from the trunk before bucking.
• Cutting from Above: This is the most common bucking technique. Support the log to prevent pinching.
• Cutting from Below: Use this technique when the log is resting on the ground. Be careful not to hit the ground with the chain.
• Boring Cut: Use this technique to relieve tension in the log before making the final cut.

Dealing with Tension:

Logs under tension can pinch the bar and cause kickback. To relieve tension, make a series of shallow cuts on the tension side of the log before making the final cut.

Dealing with Compression:

Logs under compression can bind the bar. To relieve compression, make a series of shallow cuts on the compression side of the log before making the final cut.

Personal Story: I once bucked a large maple log that was under a lot of tension. I didn’t relieve the tension properly, and the log pinched the bar, causing the chainsaw to kick back violently. Fortunately, I was wearing proper PPE and wasn’t injured, but the experience taught me the importance of understanding and managing tension in logs.

Data Point: Studies have shown that using proper bucking techniques can increase the yield of usable wood by up to 20%.

Pro Tip: Always use a log jack or a cant hook to lift and support logs while bucking. This will make the job easier and safer.

5. Firewood Seasoning Techniques and Safety Considerations: From Log to Cozy Fire

If you’re processing trees for firewood, proper seasoning is essential. Seasoning reduces the moisture content of the wood, making it easier to ignite and burn more efficiently.

Seasoning Methods:

• Air Drying: The most common seasoning method. Stack the wood in a well-ventilated area and allow it to dry naturally.
• Kiln Drying: A faster seasoning method that uses heat to dry the wood. Kiln-dried wood is more expensive but is ready to burn immediately.

Stacking Techniques:

• Elevate the Wood: Stack the wood on pallets or timbers to allow air to circulate underneath.
• Stack Loosely: Leave space between the logs to allow air to circulate.
• Cover the Top: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect the wood from rain and snow.
• Orient to the Sun and Wind: Position the stack to take advantage of the sun and wind.

Seasoning Time:

• Hardwoods: Typically require 6-12 months of seasoning.
• Softwoods: Typically require 3-6 months of seasoning.

Safety Considerations:

• Stack Stability: Ensure that the wood stack is stable and won’t collapse.
• Pest Control: Treat the wood with a borate solution to prevent insect infestation.
• Fire Safety: Keep the wood stack away from buildings and other flammable materials.

Personal Story: I used to stack my firewood in a haphazard pile, and it would take forever to season. After learning about proper stacking techniques, I started stacking the wood on pallets, leaving space between the logs, and covering the top with a tarp. The result was that the wood seasoned much faster and burned much more efficiently.

Data Point: Studies have shown that properly seasoned firewood can produce up to 50% more heat than green firewood.

Pro Tip: Invest in a moisture meter to check the moisture content of your firewood. The ideal moisture content for firewood is 20% or less.

Firewood as a Business:

There’s also a burgeoning market for seasoned firewood. With strategic planning and efficient processing, you can turn your wood-cutting skills into a profitable venture.

Cost-Benefit Analysis: Consider the costs of equipment, fuel, and labor versus the potential revenue from selling firewood.

Marketing and Sales: Develop a marketing strategy to reach potential customers. Consider selling firewood online, at farmers’ markets, or through local retailers.

Sustainability: Practice sustainable forestry management to ensure a long-term supply of wood.

Project Planning and Execution: A Holistic Approach

Cutting large trees isn’t just about the cutting itself; it’s about planning, preparation, and execution.

Site Assessment:

Before you start, thoroughly assess the site. Look for hazards like power lines, buildings, and uneven terrain. Identify potential escape routes and plan for contingencies.

Permitting and Regulations:

Check local regulations regarding tree removal. You may need a permit to cut down certain trees, especially if they are located in protected areas.

Equipment Checklist:

Make a checklist of all the equipment you’ll need, including the chainsaw, fuel, oil, PPE, wedges, axes, and first-aid kit.

Communication:

If you’re working with others, establish clear communication signals. Use hand signals or radios to communicate effectively, especially in noisy environments.

Weather Conditions:

Avoid cutting trees in windy or stormy weather. Strong winds can make it difficult to control the fall of the tree, and lightning strikes can be deadly.

Environmental Considerations:

Minimize the impact on the environment. Avoid damaging surrounding vegetation and dispose of waste properly.

Contingency Planning:

Develop a contingency plan in case something goes wrong. Know what to do if the tree falls in the wrong direction, if the chainsaw malfunctions, or if someone gets injured.

Personal Story: I once started a tree-felling project without properly assessing the site. I didn’t notice a power line that was hidden by the trees. As the tree fell, it came dangerously close to the power line. Fortunately, no one was injured, but the experience taught me the importance of thorough site assessment.

Data Point: According to the National Arbor Day Foundation, proper tree care and removal can increase property values by up to 15%.

Pro Tip: Take a chainsaw safety course before attempting to cut down large trees. A qualified instructor can teach you the proper techniques and safety procedures.

Conclusion: Embrace the Power Responsibly

The Stihl MS660 is a formidable tool, capable of felling even the largest trees. But remember, with great power comes great responsibility. By mastering wood anatomy, maintaining your equipment, practicing proper felling and bucking techniques, and prioritizing safety, you can harness the power of the MS660 safely and efficiently. So, get out there, respect the wood, and cut with confidence!

Now that you’re armed with these pro tricks, I encourage you to put them into practice. Start with smaller trees and gradually work your way up to larger ones. Remember to always prioritize safety and to never hesitate to ask for help if you need it. The world of wood processing is a rewarding one, and with the right knowledge and skills, you can achieve great things.

These techniques, combined with a healthy respect for the power of the Stihl MS660, will help you tackle even the most challenging tree-felling projects. Remember to always prioritize safety, wear appropriate PPE, and never hesitate to seek professional guidance when needed.

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