Stihl Chainsaw MS310 Bar Length (5 Pro Tips For Upgrades)

Stihl Chainsaw MS310 Bar Length: 5 Pro Tips for Upgrades

I remember the first time I picked up a chainsaw. It was a hand-me-down, a beast of a machine that vibrated so much my hands tingled for hours afterward. Over the years, I’ve learned a lot about chainsaws, especially the importance of matching the right bar length to the task at hand. The Stihl MS310 is a workhorse of a saw, and understanding its bar length options and potential upgrades can significantly improve its performance and versatility. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know, from basic concepts to advanced techniques.

Understanding the User Intent

The user searching for “Stihl Chainsaw MS310 Bar Length (5 Pro Tips for Upgrades)” is likely looking for the following:

Optimal bar length for the Stihl MS310: They want to know the recommended and maximum bar lengths for their chainsaw.
Performance implications of different bar lengths: They are curious about how bar length affects cutting speed, power, and maneuverability.
Upgrade options to improve performance: They are interested in modifications to enhance the saw’s capabilities.
Practical tips and advice: They need actionable insights to make informed decisions about their chainsaw.
Safety considerations: They want to ensure they are using the chainsaw safely and effectively.

1. The Importance of Bar Length: Matching the Saw to the Task

Bar length isn’t just a number; it’s a critical factor that impacts your chainsaw’s performance, safety, and longevity. Choosing the wrong bar length can lead to inefficient cutting, increased wear and tear, and even dangerous situations.

Definition: The bar is the metal guide that supports the chain as it cuts. Its length determines the maximum diameter of wood you can cut in a single pass.
Why it matters: A bar that’s too long for your saw’s engine can bog it down, reducing cutting speed and increasing the risk of kickback. A bar that’s too short may limit the types of jobs you can tackle.

My Personal Experience: I once tried to use a 20-inch bar on a smaller chainsaw. It struggled to cut through even moderately sized logs. The engine was constantly under strain, and the chain kept getting pinched. I quickly learned that matching the bar to the saw’s power is crucial.

2. Stihl MS310: Recommended Bar Lengths and Specifications

The Stihl MS310 is a mid-range chainsaw designed for a variety of tasks, from felling small trees to cutting firewood. Knowing its specifications is essential for choosing the right bar length.

Engine Displacement: Typically around 59 cc (cubic centimeters).
Power Output: Approximately 3.2 kW (kilowatts) or 4.3 bhp (brake horsepower).
Recommended Bar Lengths: Stihl generally recommends bar lengths between 16 inches (40 cm) and 20 inches (50 cm) for the MS310.
Gauge and Pitch: The MS310 typically uses a .063″ (1.6 mm) gauge and a 3/8″ pitch chain. Understanding these measurements is important when selecting a replacement chain.

Data and Insights: Based on Stihl’s official documentation and my own experience, the 18-inch bar is often considered the sweet spot for the MS310. It provides a good balance of cutting capacity and maneuverability.

3. Pro Tip #1: Evaluating Your Cutting Needs

Before upgrading or changing your bar length, take a moment to assess the types of jobs you’ll be tackling most often. This will help you determine the optimal bar length for your needs.

Small Trees and Limbs (Up to 12 inches): A 16-inch bar is ideal for pruning, limbing, and felling small trees. It’s lightweight and easy to maneuver.
Medium-Sized Trees and Firewood (12-20 inches): An 18-inch bar is a versatile option for a wide range of tasks, including felling medium-sized trees and cutting firewood.
Larger Trees (Over 20 inches): A 20-inch bar is suitable for felling larger trees, but it may strain the MS310’s engine if used extensively on hardwoods.

Case Study: I have a friend who primarily uses his MS310 for cutting firewood. He initially used a 20-inch bar, but he found that it bogged down when cutting through dense oak logs. He switched to an 18-inch bar, and his cutting speed and efficiency significantly improved.

4. Pro Tip #2: Understanding the Trade-offs of Different Bar Lengths

Each bar length has its own set of advantages and disadvantages. Understanding these trade-offs will help you make an informed decision.

Shorter Bars (16 inches):
- Pros: Lighter weight, easier to maneuver, less kickback, faster cutting speed on smaller wood.
- Cons: Limited cutting capacity, not suitable for larger trees.
Longer Bars (20 inches):
- Pros: Can cut larger trees, increased reach.
- Cons: Heavier weight, harder to maneuver, increased kickback risk, slower cutting speed on smaller wood (due to increased chain drag), may strain the engine.

Strategic Advantages: A shorter bar is ideal for precision work and situations where maneuverability is key. A longer bar is better suited for tackling larger trees and clearing brush.

5. Pro Tip #3: Upgrading Your Chain for Enhanced Performance

The chain is just as important as the bar. Upgrading to a higher-quality chain can significantly improve your chainsaw’s cutting performance, regardless of the bar length.

Types of Chains:
- Full Chisel: Aggressive cutting, best for clean wood.
- Semi-Chisel: More forgiving, better for dirty or frozen wood.
- Low-Profile: Reduced kickback, ideal for beginners.
Chain Maintenance: Sharpen your chain regularly to maintain optimal cutting performance. A dull chain will bog down the saw and increase the risk of kickback.

Technical Details: When selecting a replacement chain, make sure it matches the bar’s gauge and pitch. The drive link count must also be correct for the chain to fit properly.

Original Insight: I’ve found that using a full chisel chain on clean, seasoned hardwood significantly improves cutting speed and efficiency. However, for cutting firewood that may contain dirt or debris, a semi-chisel chain is a better choice.

6. Pro Tip #4: Adjusting Carburetor Settings for Optimal Performance

When changing bar lengths, especially when going from shorter to longer, you might need to adjust the carburetor settings to ensure the engine is running optimally. A longer bar requires more power from the engine to drive the chain.

Understanding Carburetor Settings: The carburetor controls the air-fuel mixture that enters the engine. The main adjustments are:
- L (Low): Adjusts the fuel mixture at idle and low speeds.
- H (High): Adjusts the fuel mixture at high speeds.
- LA (Low Adjustment): Adjusts the idle speed.
Adjusting the Carburetor:
1. Locate the Carburetor Screws: These are typically found near the carburetor, labeled L, H, and LA.
2. Warm Up the Engine: Let the chainsaw run for a few minutes to warm up.
3. Adjust the Idle Speed (LA): Turn the LA screw until the chain stops moving at idle.
4. Adjust the Low Speed (L): Slowly turn the L screw clockwise until the engine starts to bog down, then turn it counter-clockwise until the engine runs smoothly.
5. Adjust the High Speed (H): This is the most critical adjustment. Turn the H screw clockwise until the engine starts to bog down at full throttle, then turn it counter-clockwise until the engine runs smoothly without bogging down or smoking excessively. Important: Avoid running the engine too lean (too much air) as this can damage the engine.
Professional Tip: If you’re not comfortable adjusting the carburetor yourself, take your chainsaw to a qualified service technician.

Safety Considerations: Always wear safety glasses and gloves when working on your chainsaw. Be careful when adjusting the carburetor screws, as they can be easily damaged.

7. Pro Tip #5: Maintaining Your Chainsaw for Longevity

Proper maintenance is crucial for keeping your Stihl MS310 running smoothly and safely, regardless of the bar length.

Chain Sharpening: Sharpen your chain regularly using a file or a chain grinder. A sharp chain will cut more efficiently and reduce the risk of kickback.
Bar Maintenance: Clean the bar groove regularly to remove sawdust and debris. Check the bar rails for wear and tear, and replace the bar if necessary.
Air Filter: Clean the air filter regularly to ensure proper airflow to the engine.
Spark Plug: Replace the spark plug annually or as needed.
Fuel Mixture: Use the correct fuel mixture (typically 50:1) and fresh fuel.
Chain Oil: Use a high-quality chain oil to lubricate the chain and bar.
Storage: Store your chainsaw in a dry place when not in use.

Detailed Content: I recommend sharpening your chain every time you refuel. This will ensure that you’re always cutting with a sharp chain, which will improve your cutting speed and reduce the risk of kickback.

Tool Specifications: I use a Stihl 2-in-1 Easy File for sharpening my chains. It’s a convenient tool that allows you to sharpen the cutters and adjust the depth gauges simultaneously.

8. Safety First: Essential Safety Practices

Chainsaws are powerful tools that can be dangerous if not used properly. Always follow these safety practices to protect yourself and others.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE):
- Safety Glasses: Protect your eyes from flying debris.
- Hearing Protection: Protect your ears from the loud noise of the chainsaw.
- Gloves: Protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
- Chaps: Protect your legs from chainsaw cuts.
- Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and other hazards.
- Helmet: Protect your head from falling branches.
Kickback Awareness: Be aware of the risk of kickback and take steps to prevent it.
Safe Cutting Techniques: Use proper cutting techniques to avoid pinching the bar and causing kickback.
Clear Work Area: Clear the work area of obstacles and bystanders.
Never Cut Above Shoulder Height: This increases the risk of losing control of the chainsaw.
Never Cut with One Hand: Always use two hands to operate the chainsaw.
Inspect the Chainsaw Before Each Use: Check the chain tension, bar lubrication, and all safety features.
Read the Owner’s Manual: Familiarize yourself with the chainsaw’s operating instructions and safety precautions.

Original Case Study: I witnessed a near-miss accident where a logger was cutting a tree without wearing chaps. The chainsaw kicked back and cut his pants, narrowly missing his leg. This incident reinforced the importance of wearing proper PPE at all times.

9. Understanding Wood Types and Their Impact on Bar Length Choice

The type of wood you’re cutting significantly impacts the performance of your chainsaw and influences the optimal bar length.

Softwoods (Pine, Fir, Spruce): Easier to cut, require less power. A longer bar can be used effectively without straining the engine.
Hardwoods (Oak, Maple, Hickory): Denser and harder to cut, require more power. Using a bar that’s too long can bog down the engine.
Green Wood: Wood that has not been dried. It is heavier and contains more moisture, making it more difficult to cut.
Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been dried, typically for 6-12 months. It is lighter and easier to cut.

Data and Insights: Oak, with a density of around 0.75 g/cm³, requires significantly more power to cut than pine, which has a density of around 0.4 g/cm³. This difference in density affects the chainsaw’s performance and the optimal bar length.

Example: When cutting seasoned pine, a 20-inch bar on the MS310 might perform well. However, when cutting green oak, an 18-inch bar might be a better choice to avoid bogging down the engine.

10. Felling Techniques and Bar Length Considerations

Felling trees safely and efficiently requires proper technique and the appropriate bar length.

Felling Wedge: Using a felling wedge can help direct the fall of the tree and prevent the bar from getting pinched.
Hinge: Creating a hinge during the felling process helps control the direction of the fall.
Back Cut: The back cut is the final cut that severs the tree.
Bar Length and Tree Diameter: The bar length should be at least slightly longer than the diameter of the tree you’re felling.

Step-by-Step Guide:

Assess the Tree: Determine the tree’s lean, wind direction, and any obstacles in the area.
Plan Your Escape Route: Clear two escape routes at a 45-degree angle away from the direction of the fall.
Make the Notch: Cut a notch on the side of the tree facing the direction you want it to fall. The notch should be about 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
Make the Back Cut: Make the back cut on the opposite side of the tree, slightly above the bottom of the notch. Leave a hinge of about 10% of the tree’s diameter.
Insert a Felling Wedge: If necessary, insert a felling wedge into the back cut to help direct the fall of the tree.
Sever the Hinge: If necessary, sever the hinge to complete the fall.
Retreat Along Your Escape Route: Quickly retreat along your escape route as the tree falls.

Benefits: Using proper felling techniques can significantly reduce the risk of accidents and ensure that the tree falls in the desired direction.

11. Debarking Logs: Tools and Techniques

Debarking logs is a common practice in wood processing, and the Stihl MS310 can be used for this purpose with the right attachments and techniques.

Purpose of Debarking:
- Prevent Insect Infestation: Removing the bark eliminates a breeding ground for insects that can damage the wood.
- Improve Drying: Debarked logs dry more quickly and evenly.
- Enhance Appearance: Debarked logs have a cleaner and more appealing appearance.
Tools for Debarking:
- Drawknife: A traditional hand tool for removing bark.
- Debarking Spud: A specialized tool for removing bark from logs.
- Chainsaw with Debarking Attachment: A chainsaw can be fitted with a debarking attachment for removing bark quickly and efficiently.
Techniques for Debarking with a Chainsaw:
1. Attach the Debarking Attachment: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for attaching the debarking attachment to your chainsaw.
2. Start the Chainsaw: Start the chainsaw and let it warm up.
3. Hold the Chainsaw at an Angle: Hold the chainsaw at a shallow angle to the log.
4. Move the Chainsaw Along the Log: Move the chainsaw along the log, removing the bark in strips.
5. Avoid Cutting into the Wood: Be careful not to cut into the wood beneath the bark.

Measurements: The depth of the cut should be just deep enough to remove the bark without damaging the wood.

12. Splitting Firewood: Manual vs. Hydraulic

Splitting firewood is a common task for chainsaw users, and choosing the right method can significantly improve efficiency and reduce strain.

Manual Splitting: Using an axe or maul to split firewood.
- Pros: Inexpensive, good exercise.
- Cons: Labor-intensive, time-consuming, can be dangerous.
Hydraulic Splitting: Using a hydraulic log splitter to split firewood.
- Pros: Fast, efficient, reduces strain.
- Cons: More expensive, requires maintenance.

Tool Specifications:

Axe: A sharp axe with a heavy head is essential for manual splitting.
Maul: A maul is a heavier version of an axe, designed for splitting larger logs.
Hydraulic Log Splitter: Hydraulic log splitters are available in a variety of sizes and power ratings. Choose a model that is appropriate for the size and type of wood you’ll be splitting.

Strategic Advantages: A hydraulic log splitter can significantly increase efficiency and reduce strain, especially when splitting large quantities of firewood.

Original Insight: I’ve found that using a hydraulic log splitter can reduce the time it takes to split a cord of firewood by as much as 50%.

13. Drying Firewood: Stacking and Seasoning

Properly drying firewood is essential for efficient burning and reducing smoke.

Seasoning: The process of drying firewood to reduce its moisture content.
Stacking: Stacking firewood properly allows air to circulate and promotes drying.
Moisture Content Targets: Firewood should have a moisture content of 20% or less for optimal burning.

Step-by-Step Guide:

Split the Firewood: Split the firewood into manageable sizes.
Stack the Firewood: Stack the firewood in a single row, with the bark facing up. Leave space between the rows for air circulation.
Elevate the Firewood: Elevate the firewood off the ground to prevent moisture from wicking up from the soil.
Cover the Firewood: Cover the top of the firewood stack with a tarp or roof to protect it from rain and snow.
Allow the Firewood to Season: Allow the firewood to season for 6-12 months, or until it reaches a moisture content of 20% or less.

Measurements: The ideal spacing between rows is 2-4 inches.

Timing Estimates: The drying time will vary depending on the type of wood, the climate, and the stacking method.

14. Cost Considerations for Bar Length Upgrades and Maintenance

Upgrading your bar length or maintaining your chainsaw involves certain costs. Being aware of these can help you budget and plan accordingly.

Cost of a New Bar: The cost of a new chainsaw bar can range from $30 to $100 or more, depending on the length, brand, and quality.
Cost of a New Chain: The cost of a new chain can range from $20 to $50 or more, depending on the type, length, and quality.
Cost of Maintenance: Regular maintenance, such as chain sharpening, bar cleaning, and air filter replacement, can cost $20-$50 per year.
Cost of Professional Service: If you’re not comfortable performing maintenance yourself, you can take your chainsaw to a qualified service technician. The cost of professional service can range from $50 to $100 or more.

Material Specs: Choose high-quality bars and chains that are made from durable materials.

15. Troubleshooting Common Chainsaw Problems

Even with proper maintenance, chainsaws can experience problems. Knowing how to troubleshoot common issues can save you time and money.

Chainsaw Won’t Start:
- Check the Fuel: Make sure the fuel tank is full and that the fuel is fresh.
- Check the Spark Plug: Make sure the spark plug is clean and properly gapped.
- Check the Air Filter: Make sure the air filter is clean.
- Check the Carburetor: The carburetor may need to be adjusted or cleaned.
Chainsaw Runs Poorly:
- Check the Air Filter: Make sure the air filter is clean.
- Check the Spark Plug: Make sure the spark plug is clean and properly gapped.
- Check the Carburetor: The carburetor may need to be adjusted or cleaned.
Chainsaw Chain Won’t Cut:
- Sharpen the Chain: A dull chain will not cut properly.
- Check the Chain Tension: Make sure the chain is properly tensioned.
- Check the Bar Lubrication: Make sure the bar is properly lubricated.
Chainsaw Kicks Back:
- Use Proper Cutting Techniques: Avoid pinching the bar and causing kickback.
- Sharpen the Chain: A dull chain increases the risk of kickback.
- Use a Low-Kickback Chain: A low-kickback chain can reduce the risk of kickback.

Original Insight: I’ve found that many chainsaw problems are caused by dirty air filters or stale fuel. Regularly cleaning the air filter and using fresh fuel can prevent many common issues.

Assess Your Cutting Needs: Determine the types of jobs you’ll be tackling most often.
Choose the Right Bar Length: Select a bar length that is appropriate for your needs and the power of your chainsaw.
Upgrade Your Chain: Consider upgrading to a higher-quality chain for enhanced performance.
Maintain Your Chainsaw: Perform regular maintenance to keep your chainsaw running smoothly and safely.
Practice Safe Cutting Techniques: Always follow safety practices to protect yourself and others.

By following these tips, you can maximize the performance and versatility of your Stihl MS310 chainsaw and tackle any wood processing or firewood preparation project with confidence. Remember, safety is paramount, and proper maintenance is key to longevity. Happy cutting!

Stihl Chainsaw MS310 Bar Length (5 Pro Tips for Upgrades)