Stihl Chainsaw MS 660 Tips for Wood Processing (5 Pro Hacks)

Let’s talk budget, shall we? Before diving into the nitty-gritty of maximizing the Stihl MS 660 for wood processing, it’s crucial to acknowledge that not everyone has deep pockets. I’ve been there, staring at a top-of-the-line chainsaw while my bank account whimpered. So, I always consider budget-friendly approaches first. This isn’t about skimping on safety or quality; it’s about being smart and resourceful. Think refurbished tools, scouring online marketplaces for gently used equipment, and prioritizing essential maintenance over unnecessary upgrades. Because at the end of the day, the best tool is the one you can afford and maintain properly.

Stihl Chainsaw MS 660 Tips for Wood Processing: 5 Pro Hacks

The Stihl MS 660, affectionately known as the “Magnum,” is a beast. It’s a professional-grade chainsaw designed for serious felling and processing of large timber. I’ve personally used this saw in some pretty demanding situations, from clearing storm damage in the Pacific Northwest to milling lumber in the Appalachian Mountains. It’s got the power to tackle just about anything you throw at it. But raw power alone isn’t enough. To truly maximize its potential, you need to understand its nuances and apply the right techniques.

Here are five pro hacks I’ve learned over the years to get the most out of your Stihl MS 660 when processing wood. These aren’t just random tips; they’re strategies refined through countless hours of hands-on experience.

1. Mastering the Art of Chain Selection and Sharpening

Why it Matters: The chain is the heart of your chainsaw. A dull or improperly chosen chain will not only slow you down but also put unnecessary strain on the saw and increase the risk of kickback. I’ve seen guys wrestling with dull chains, burning through fuel and getting nowhere fast. It’s a frustrating and potentially dangerous situation.

The Hack: Don’t just grab any chain off the shelf. Understand the different types and their applications.

• Chain Types:
  • Full Chisel: Aggressive cutting, ideal for clean wood. Requires careful sharpening.
  • Semi-Chisel: More forgiving, better for dirty or frozen wood. Holds an edge longer.
  • Low-Profile: Reduced kickback, good for beginners or smaller saws (though less ideal for the MS 660’s power).
  • Ripping Chain: Specialized chain for milling lumber along the grain.
• Chain Pitch and Gauge: Match the chain pitch (usually .404″ or 3/8″ for the MS 660) and gauge (usually .063″) to your saw’s specifications. Using the wrong pitch or gauge can damage the sprocket and bar.
• Sharpening: Sharpen your chain frequently. A sharp chain cuts smoothly and efficiently. I personally sharpen my chains after every tank of fuel, or more often if I’m cutting dirty wood. Use a quality chainsaw file and follow the manufacturer’s recommended angles. A guide can be extremely helpful for maintaining consistent angles.
• Depth Gauge (Raker) Adjustment: The depth gauge controls how much the cutter takes with each pass. Too high, and the chain won’t cut aggressively. Too low, and it will grab and kick back. Use a depth gauge tool to maintain the correct height, typically around .025″-.030″ for general purpose cutting. I’ve found that adjusting the rakers slightly lower when working with hardwoods can significantly improve cutting performance.

Technical Details & Data:

• Chain Sharpening Angles: Full chisel chains typically require a top plate angle of 30-35 degrees and a side plate angle of 60-70 degrees. Refer to your chain manufacturer’s specifications for precise angles.
• Chain Hardness: Chains are typically made from alloy steel with a hardness of 58-62 HRC (Rockwell Hardness C scale). This ensures durability and wear resistance.
• Case Study: I once worked on a project where we were felling large Douglas fir trees. By switching from a semi-chisel chain to a full chisel chain and diligently sharpening it, we increased our cutting speed by approximately 20% and reduced fuel consumption by 15%. This translated to significant time and cost savings over the course of the project.

Practical Tip: Invest in a good quality chainsaw file and a depth gauge tool. Learn how to sharpen your chain properly. There are plenty of online resources and videos that can guide you. Practice makes perfect!

2. Optimizing Bar Length and Maintenance

Why it Matters: The bar length determines the size of wood you can safely and efficiently cut. Using a bar that’s too long can be unwieldy and increase the risk of kickback. A bar that’s too short will limit your capabilities. Proper bar maintenance is crucial for extending its lifespan and ensuring smooth operation.

The Hack: Choose the right bar length for the job and maintain it religiously.

• Bar Length Selection: The MS 660 can handle a wide range of bar lengths, typically from 20″ to 36″. For general purpose felling and bucking, a 25″ or 28″ bar is a good compromise. For larger timber, you might need a 32″ or 36″ bar. Consider the diameter of the wood you’ll be processing most often. The bar should be long enough to cut through the wood in a single pass without burying the saw body.
• Bar Maintenance:
  • Cleaning: Clean the bar regularly with a wire brush to remove sawdust and debris.
  • Filing: File down any burrs or damage on the bar rails with a flat file.
  • Lubrication: Ensure the bar oiler is functioning properly and that the bar is receiving adequate lubrication. I always check the oiler output before starting a job.
  • Bar Rotation: Rotate the bar periodically (every few days of use) to distribute wear evenly.
  • Bar Rail Check: Use a bar rail gauge to check the bar rails are square. If not, use a bar rail closer to square the rails.

Technical Details & Data:

• Bar Material: Chainsaw bars are typically made from alloy steel with a hardness of 45-50 HRC.
• Bar Oil Viscosity: Use bar oil with a viscosity of SAE 30 or SAE 40, depending on the ambient temperature. Higher viscosity oils are better for warmer temperatures.
• Bar Rail Wear Tolerance: The maximum allowable wear on the bar rails is typically around .020″. Exceeding this tolerance can lead to chain instability and increased risk of kickback.
• Case Study: On a large-scale logging operation, we noticed premature bar wear on several of our MS 660 chainsaws. After investigating, we discovered that the bar oilers were not functioning properly due to clogged filters. By cleaning the filters and ensuring proper lubrication, we extended the lifespan of the bars by approximately 50%.

Practical Tip: Invest in a bar rail gauge and learn how to use it. This simple tool can help you identify and correct bar wear before it becomes a serious problem. Keep your bar clean and well-lubricated.

3. Mastering Felling and Bucking Techniques

Why it Matters: Improper felling and bucking techniques can be dangerous and inefficient. You could damage valuable timber, get the saw pinched, or worse, injure yourself or others. I’ve seen firsthand the consequences of careless felling – trees falling in the wrong direction, causing property damage and near-miss accidents.

The Hack: Learn and practice proper felling and bucking techniques.

• Felling Techniques:
  • Assess the Tree: Before felling a tree, assess its lean, the wind direction, and any potential hazards (power lines, other trees, etc.).
  • Plan Your Escape Route: Always have a clear escape route planned and cleared of obstacles.
  • Notch Cut: Make a notch cut on the side of the tree in the direction you want it to fall. The notch should be about 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
  • Felling Cut: Make a felling cut on the opposite side of the tree, slightly above the notch. Leave a hinge of wood (typically about 10% of the tree’s diameter) to guide the fall.
  • Wedges: Use felling wedges to help direct the fall of the tree and prevent it from pinching the saw.
• Bucking Techniques:
  • Support the Log: Before bucking a log, make sure it is properly supported to prevent it from pinching the saw. Use logs or branches as supports.
  • Cutting from Above: When bucking a log that is supported at both ends, cut from above about 1/3 of the way through, then finish the cut from below.
  • Cutting from Below: When bucking a log that is supported in the middle, cut from below about 1/3 of the way through, then finish the cut from above.
  • Avoid Kickback: Be aware of the potential for kickback, especially when cutting near knots or branches.

Technical Details & Data:

• Hinge Wood Dimensions: The hinge wood should be approximately 10% of the tree’s diameter. Too little hinge wood, and the tree may fall unpredictably. Too much, and the tree may not fall at all.
• Felling Wedge Angle: Felling wedges typically have an angle of 10-15 degrees. This allows them to effectively lift the tree and direct its fall.
• Tree Felling Zones: Industry best practice is to fell trees in a zone that is at least twice the height of the tree.
• Case Study: I was involved in a salvage logging operation after a major windstorm. Many of the trees were leaning precariously, making felling extremely dangerous. By using a combination of felling wedges, winches, and careful cutting techniques, we were able to safely fell the trees without causing further damage.

Practical Tip: Take a professional chainsaw safety course. It’s the best way to learn proper felling and bucking techniques and avoid accidents. Always wear appropriate safety gear, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, and chainsaw chaps.

4. Fine-Tuning Carburetor Adjustments

Why it Matters: A properly tuned carburetor is essential for optimal performance and fuel efficiency. A carburetor that is too lean can cause the engine to overheat and damage the piston. A carburetor that is too rich can cause the engine to run sluggishly and produce excessive smoke. I can recall situations where a poorly tuned carburetor led to frustrating delays and even engine damage in the field.

The Hack: Learn how to adjust the carburetor on your MS 660 for peak performance.

• Carburetor Adjustment Screws: The MS 660 carburetor typically has three adjustment screws:
  • L (Low): Adjusts the fuel mixture at idle and low speeds.
  • H (High): Adjusts the fuel mixture at high speeds.
  • LA (Idle Speed): Adjusts the engine’s idle speed.
• Adjustment Procedure:
  1. Warm Up the Engine: Start the engine and let it warm up for a few minutes.
  2. Idle Speed Adjustment: Adjust the LA screw until the engine idles smoothly without stalling. The recommended idle speed for the MS 660 is around 2,500-2,800 RPM.
  3. Low Speed Adjustment: Turn the L screw clockwise until the engine starts to stumble, then turn it counterclockwise until the engine runs smoothly.
  4. High Speed Adjustment: This is the most critical adjustment. Use a tachometer to monitor the engine RPM. Turn the H screw clockwise until the engine starts to bog down, then turn it counterclockwise until the engine reaches its maximum RPM. The maximum RPM for the MS 660 is around 13,000-13,500 RPM. Be careful not to over-rev the engine, as this can cause damage.
  5. Test Cut: Make a few test cuts to ensure the engine is running smoothly under load.
• Troubleshooting:
  • Engine Stalls at Idle: Turn the LA screw clockwise to increase the idle speed.
  • Engine Bogs Down Under Load: Turn the H screw counterclockwise to richen the fuel mixture.
  • Engine Smokes Excessively: Turn the H screw clockwise to lean out the fuel mixture.

Technical Details & Data:

• Carburetor Type: The MS 660 typically uses a Walbro or Zama carburetor.
• Air/Fuel Ratio: The ideal air/fuel ratio for a two-stroke engine is around 14.7:1 at idle and 12.5:1 at full throttle.
• RPM Measurement: Use a digital tachometer with an inductive pickup to accurately measure the engine RPM.
• Case Study: I once helped a friend troubleshoot a MS 660 that was running poorly. After checking the spark plug, air filter, and fuel lines, we determined that the carburetor was out of adjustment. By carefully adjusting the H and L screws, we were able to restore the engine to its full power and improve its fuel efficiency.

Practical Tip: If you’re not comfortable adjusting the carburetor yourself, take your chainsaw to a qualified service technician. They have the tools and expertise to properly tune the engine and ensure it’s running safely and efficiently.

5. Optimizing Wood Splitting Techniques

Why it Matters: Efficient wood splitting is crucial for preparing firewood quickly and safely. Using the wrong techniques can lead to fatigue, injuries, and wasted effort. I’ve seen guys struggle for hours to split a single cord of wood, while others can breeze through it in a fraction of the time.

The Hack: Use the right tools and techniques to split wood efficiently.

• Tool Selection:
  • Splitting Axe: A good quality splitting axe with a heavy head (6-8 lbs) is essential for splitting larger rounds.
  • Splitting Maul: A splitting maul is similar to a splitting axe, but with a heavier head and a wider, flatter face. It’s ideal for splitting tough, knotty wood.
  • Wedges: Steel splitting wedges are useful for splitting particularly stubborn rounds.
  • Sledgehammer: A sledgehammer can be used to drive the wedges into the wood.
  • Hydraulic Log Splitter: For large volumes of firewood, a hydraulic log splitter can save a lot of time and effort.
• Splitting Techniques:
  • Choose the Right Wood: Easier to split wood includes seasoned softwood like pine or fir. Hardwoods like oak or maple can be tougher.
  • Aim for Cracks: Look for natural cracks or splits in the wood and aim your blows at those points.
  • Use Proper Stance: Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart and your knees slightly bent. Keep your back straight and use your legs and core to generate power.
  • Swing with Momentum: Swing the axe or maul with a smooth, controlled motion. Let the weight of the tool do the work.
  • Use Wedges When Necessary: If the wood is too tough to split with an axe or maul, drive a wedge into the crack with a sledgehammer.

Technical Details & Data:

• Wood Moisture Content: Wood is easiest to split when it is green (freshly cut) or well-seasoned (dried to a moisture content of 20% or less). Wood that is partially seasoned can be very difficult to split.
• Wood Density: The density of the wood affects its splitting difficulty. Denser woods like oak and maple are more difficult to split than less dense woods like pine and fir.
• Splitting Force: A hydraulic log splitter typically generates 20-30 tons of splitting force.
• Case Study: I once helped a friend prepare firewood for the winter. He was struggling to split large oak rounds with a splitting axe. By using a splitting maul and a couple of steel wedges, we were able to split the rounds much more easily and efficiently.

Practical Tip: Invest in a good quality splitting maul or hydraulic log splitter. It will save you a lot of time and effort in the long run. Always wear safety glasses and gloves when splitting wood.

Additional Considerations for Maximizing Your MS 660

Beyond these five pro hacks, there are a few other things to keep in mind when using your Stihl MS 660 for wood processing:

• Fuel and Oil: Use high-quality two-stroke oil and mix it with gasoline at the manufacturer’s recommended ratio (typically 50:1). I prefer to use synthetic two-stroke oil, as it provides better lubrication and reduces carbon buildup. Always use fresh fuel.
• Air Filter: Clean the air filter regularly. A dirty air filter can restrict airflow and cause the engine to run poorly.
• Spark Plug: Check the spark plug regularly and replace it if it is fouled or worn.
• Chain Brake: Always engage the chain brake when starting the chainsaw or when carrying it between cuts.
• Safety Gear: Always wear appropriate safety gear, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, chainsaw chaps, and gloves.
• Maintenance Schedule: Follow the manufacturer’s recommended maintenance schedule. This will help to keep your chainsaw running smoothly and extend its lifespan.

By following these tips, you can maximize the performance and lifespan of your Stihl MS 660 and make wood processing a more efficient and enjoyable task. Remember, safety is always the top priority. Take your time, be careful, and always wear appropriate safety gear. Happy cutting!

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