Stihl Chainsaw MS 170 Basics (5 Pro Tips For Efficient Logging)

I remember the first time I tried to fell a tree with a chainsaw. I was brimming with confidence, having watched countless YouTube videos and read a few articles. But the reality was a humbling experience. The saw bucked, the tree didn’t fall where I intended, and I ended up wrestling with the log for what felt like an eternity. It was a chaotic, inefficient, and frankly, dangerous situation. That day, I learned a valuable lesson: understanding the basics of chainsaw operation and safe logging practices is absolutely crucial, especially when dealing with a powerful tool like the Stihl MS 170.

Stihl Chainsaw MS 170 Basics (5 Pro Tips for Efficient Logging)

The Stihl MS 170 is a popular choice for homeowners and hobbyists due to its lightweight design, ease of use, and affordability. It’s a great entry-level chainsaw for tasks like pruning, limbing, and cutting small firewood. However, even with a user-friendly saw like the MS 170, mastering the basics is essential for safety and efficiency.

What is Efficient Logging?

Before we dive into the specifics, let’s define what I mean by “efficient logging.” It’s not just about cutting wood quickly. It’s about:

Safety: Minimizing the risk of accidents and injuries.
Productivity: Getting more work done in less time with less effort.
Precision: Cutting wood to the desired dimensions with minimal waste.
Sustainability: Respecting the environment and practicing responsible forestry.
Tool Longevity: Using and maintaining your tools in ways that maximize their lifespan.

Key Terms You Need to Know

Understanding these terms will make the rest of this guide much easier to follow:

Bar: The metal guide that the chainsaw chain runs around. The length of the bar determines the maximum diameter of wood you can cut. The MS 170 typically comes with a 16-inch bar, but you can sometimes find it with a 14-inch bar.
Chain: The cutting component of the chainsaw. It consists of interconnected links with sharp cutters (teeth) that slice through the wood.
Chain Pitch: The distance between three consecutive rivets on the chain, divided by two. This is important when replacing the chain.
Chain Gauge: The thickness of the drive links that fit into the bar groove. This is also critical for chain replacement.
Drive Sprocket: The toothed wheel that drives the chain around the bar.
Bucking: Cutting a felled tree into smaller, manageable lengths.
Limbing: Removing branches from a felled tree.
Felling: The act of cutting down a tree.
Kickback: A sudden, uncontrolled upward or backward movement of the chainsaw, often caused by the tip of the bar contacting an object. This is a major safety hazard.
Green Wood: Freshly cut wood with a high moisture content. It’s heavier and harder to split than seasoned wood.
Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been allowed to dry, reducing its moisture content. It’s lighter, easier to split, and burns more efficiently. Typically, seasoning takes 6-12 months, depending on the wood type and climate.
Kerf: The width of the cut made by the chainsaw chain.
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Safety gear worn to protect yourself from injury. This includes a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, chainsaw chaps, and sturdy boots.

Pro Tip #1: Master the Starting Procedure

The Stihl MS 170 is known for its relatively easy starting procedure, but even this can be frustrating if you don’t know the proper steps. I’ve seen countless people flood their engines by repeatedly pulling the cord without success. Here’s the foolproof method I use:

Step 1: Safety First

Place the chainsaw on a flat, stable surface.
Ensure the chain brake is engaged. This prevents the chain from moving during starting.
Make sure there are no obstructions around the chainsaw.

Step 2: Cold Start (Engine is Cold)

Choke: Engage the choke. On the MS 170, this usually involves pushing the control lever all the way down. The choke restricts airflow to enrich the fuel mixture, which is necessary for starting a cold engine.
Primer Bulb (if equipped): Some MS 170 models have a primer bulb. Press it several times (typically 5-6) until you see fuel entering the bulb. This primes the carburetor.
Pull the Starter Cord: Grip the starter handle firmly and pull the cord with a smooth, steady motion. Don’t yank it! Pull until the engine sputters or tries to start.
Disengage the Choke: Once the engine sputters, disengage the choke by moving the control lever to the half-choke position (usually the middle position).
Pull the Starter Cord Again: Continue pulling the starter cord until the engine starts and runs smoothly.
Warm-Up: Let the engine warm up for a few seconds before disengaging the chain brake and starting to work.

Step 3: Warm Start (Engine is Warm)

No Choke: Do not engage the choke for a warm start.
Pull the Starter Cord: Pull the starter cord until the engine starts. It should start much easier than a cold start.

Step 4: Troubleshooting

Flooded Engine: If you’ve repeatedly pulled the cord without the engine starting, you may have flooded it. To clear a flooded engine, disengage the choke completely and pull the starter cord several times. This will help to clear excess fuel from the cylinder.
No Fuel: Make sure the fuel tank is filled with the correct fuel mixture (usually a 50:1 ratio of gasoline to 2-stroke oil). Also, check the fuel filter to ensure it’s not clogged.
Spark Plug: A faulty spark plug can also prevent the engine from starting. Remove the spark plug and inspect it. If it’s fouled or damaged, replace it. The spark plug gap should be checked and adjusted according to the manufacturer’s specifications (usually around 0.5mm).

Why This Works: The starting procedure is designed to provide the engine with the correct fuel-air mixture for starting. The choke enriches the mixture for cold starts, while the primer bulb helps to prime the carburetor. A warm engine doesn’t require the choke because it’s already warm and the fuel vaporizes more easily.

Case Study: I once had a client who was constantly struggling to start his MS 170. He would pull the cord dozens of times, often flooding the engine. After observing his technique, I realized he was engaging the choke even when the engine was warm. By simply explaining the difference between a cold start and a warm start, I was able to solve his problem and save him a lot of frustration.

Pro Tip #2: Chain Sharpening is Non-Negotiable

A dull chainsaw is not only inefficient but also dangerous. It requires more force to cut, increasing the risk of kickback and fatigue. A sharp chain, on the other hand, slices through wood effortlessly, making your work faster, safer, and more enjoyable. I’ve seen firsthand how a well-sharpened chain can double the cutting speed and reduce the physical strain on the operator.

Understanding Chain Anatomy

Before we get into sharpening, let’s understand the different parts of the chain cutter:

Top Plate: The top cutting edge of the cutter.
Side Plate: The side cutting edge of the cutter.
Depth Gauge (Raker): The small projection in front of the cutter that controls the depth of the cut.

Tools You’ll Need

Chainsaw File: A round file specifically designed for sharpening chainsaw chains. The correct file size is crucial for maintaining the proper cutting angle. For the MS 170, a 5/32″ (4.0 mm) file is typically recommended.
File Guide: A tool that helps you maintain the correct filing angle and depth.
Depth Gauge Tool: A flat file and a depth gauge setting tool to adjust the height of the depth gauges.
Vise: A small vise to hold the chainsaw bar securely while you’re sharpening.
Gloves: To protect your hands.

Step-by-Step Sharpening Guide

Secure the Chainsaw: Clamp the chainsaw bar in a vise to hold it securely.
Engage the Chain Brake: This prevents the chain from moving while you’re sharpening.
Identify the Sharpest Cutter: Choose the sharpest cutter on the chain as your reference. This will help you maintain consistency.
Position the File: Place the file in the file guide at the correct angle (usually marked on the file guide). The angle is typically around 30 degrees for the top plate and 85 degrees for the side plate.
File the Cutter: Using smooth, even strokes, file the cutter from the inside out, following the angle of the file guide. Apply light pressure on the forward stroke and release on the return stroke.
Count Your Strokes: Count the number of strokes you use on the reference cutter and use the same number of strokes on all the other cutters. This will ensure that all the cutters are sharpened equally.
Sharpen All Cutters: Repeat steps 5 and 6 for all the cutters on the chain, alternating between the left and right cutters.
Check the Depth Gauges: After sharpening the cutters, check the height of the depth gauges. They should be slightly lower than the cutters. Use the depth gauge tool to set the correct height and then file the depth gauges flat with the flat file.
Rotate the Chain: Rotate the chain and repeat the sharpening process on the remaining cutters.
Lubricate the Chain: After sharpening, lubricate the chain with chainsaw bar oil.

Frequency of Sharpening

How often should you sharpen your chain? It depends on the type of wood you’re cutting and how often you use the chainsaw. However, as a general rule, you should sharpen the chain:

Before each use: This ensures that the chain is always sharp and ready to cut.
When you notice a decrease in cutting performance: If the chainsaw is taking longer to cut through wood or if the chain is producing fine sawdust instead of chips, it’s time to sharpen.
After hitting dirt or rocks: These materials can quickly dull the chain.

Alternative Sharpening Methods

While manual sharpening is the most common method, there are also other options:

Electric Chainsaw Sharpener: These sharpeners use a grinding wheel to sharpen the chain. They’re faster and easier to use than manual sharpening, but they can also remove more material from the chain.
Professional Sharpening Service: If you’re not comfortable sharpening the chain yourself, you can take it to a professional sharpening service.

Why This Works: Sharpening the chain restores the cutting edges of the cutters, allowing them to slice through wood more efficiently. Maintaining the correct filing angle and depth is crucial for optimal performance.

Case Study: I once worked with a small logging crew that was experiencing low productivity. After observing their work, I noticed that they were using dull chainsaws. I taught them how to sharpen their chains properly, and their productivity increased by over 30%. They were able to cut more wood in less time, and they also experienced less fatigue.

Pro Tip #3: Lubrication is the Lifeblood of Your Chainsaw

Proper lubrication is essential for the longevity and performance of your Stihl MS 170. The chain and bar are subjected to high speeds and friction, which can cause excessive wear and tear if they’re not adequately lubricated. I’ve seen chainsaws seize up completely due to lack of lubrication, resulting in costly repairs.

Understanding Lubrication Needs

The chainsaw requires two types of lubrication:

Bar and Chain Oil: This oil lubricates the chain and bar, reducing friction and wear. It also helps to cool the chain and bar, preventing them from overheating.
Fuel Mixture: The engine requires a mixture of gasoline and 2-stroke oil for lubrication. The 2-stroke oil lubricates the engine’s internal components.

Choosing the Right Bar and Chain Oil

Viscosity: Choose a bar and chain oil with the correct viscosity for your climate. In colder climates, you’ll need a lower viscosity oil to ensure proper flow. In warmer climates, you can use a higher viscosity oil.
Tackiness: Look for a bar and chain oil that is “tacky.” This means that it will cling to the chain and bar, providing better lubrication.
Biodegradability: Consider using a biodegradable bar and chain oil to reduce your environmental impact.
Stihl Bar and Chain Oil: Stihl recommends using their own bar and chain oil, which is specifically formulated for their chainsaws.

Fuel Mixture Ratio

The Stihl MS 170 typically requires a 50:1 fuel mixture ratio. This means 50 parts gasoline to 1 part 2-stroke oil. Always use high-quality 2-stroke oil that is specifically designed for air-cooled engines. Using the wrong type of oil or the wrong mixture ratio can damage the engine.

Lubrication Procedure

Check Oil Level: Before each use, check the bar and chain oil level. Fill the oil reservoir if necessary.
Adjust Oil Flow: The MS 170 has an adjustable oil pump. Adjust the oil flow according to the type of wood you’re cutting and the ambient temperature. For harder woods and warmer temperatures, increase the oil flow.
Observe Oil Consumption: During operation, observe the oil consumption. You should see a light mist of oil coming off the chain. If you’re not seeing any oil, stop the chainsaw and check the oil pump and oil lines.
Clean Oiling System: Periodically clean the oiling system to remove debris and prevent clogs.

Why This Works: Proper lubrication reduces friction and wear, extending the life of the chain, bar, and engine. It also helps to prevent overheating, which can damage the chainsaw.

Case Study: I once inspected a chainsaw that had seized up completely. The owner had been using the chainsaw for several hours without checking the oil level. The bar and chain had become so hot that they had fused together. The repair cost was significant, and the chainsaw was out of commission for several weeks. This could have been easily avoided by simply checking the oil level and lubricating the chain properly.

Pro Tip #4: Safe and Effective Felling Techniques for Smaller Trees

While the MS 170 isn’t designed for felling large trees, it can handle smaller ones with the right techniques and precautions. Felling a tree, even a small one, is a dangerous task that requires careful planning and execution. I’ve witnessed accidents caused by improper felling techniques, resulting in serious injuries.

Planning is Paramount

Before you even start the chainsaw, take the time to plan your felling operation. Consider the following factors:

Tree Lean: Determine the direction the tree is naturally leaning. This will influence the direction it will fall.
Wind Direction: The wind can significantly affect the direction of the fall. Avoid felling trees in strong winds.
Obstacles: Identify any obstacles in the area, such as power lines, buildings, or other trees.
Escape Route: Plan a clear escape route that is at a 45-degree angle away from the anticipated direction of the fall.
Bystanders: Ensure that there are no bystanders in the area. Establish a safety zone that is at least twice the height of the tree.

Essential PPE

Helmet: Protects your head from falling branches and debris.
Eye Protection: Protects your eyes from sawdust and flying debris.
Hearing Protection: Protects your ears from the loud noise of the chainsaw.
Gloves: Provide a better grip and protect your hands.
Chainsaw Chaps: Protect your legs from chainsaw cuts.
Sturdy Boots: Provide ankle support and protect your feet.

Felling Cuts

The standard felling technique involves three main cuts:

Notch Cut (Face Cut): This cut determines the direction of the fall. It consists of two cuts that form a wedge-shaped notch on the side of the tree facing the desired direction of fall.
- Lower Cut: Make a horizontal cut into the tree at a comfortable height (usually knee height). The depth of the cut should be about 1/5 to 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
- Upper Cut: Make an angled cut that meets the lower cut, forming a wedge. The angle of the cut should be about 45 degrees. Remove the wedge of wood.
Hinge Wood: The hinge is a strip of uncut wood between the notch cut and the felling cut. It controls the direction of the fall and prevents the tree from kicking back. The hinge should be about 1/10 of the tree’s diameter.
Felling Cut (Back Cut): This cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch cut. It should be slightly higher than the bottom of the notch cut, leaving the hinge wood intact.
- Insert Wedges: As you make the felling cut, insert plastic or wooden wedges into the cut to prevent the tree from pinching the saw and to help direct the fall.
- Final Cut: Once the felling cut is almost complete, the tree should start to fall in the direction of the notch cut.

Pushing the Tree

If the tree doesn’t fall on its own, you can use a felling lever or a pushing pole to help push it over. Be careful not to stand directly behind the tree, as it could kick back.

Important Considerations

Tree Size: The MS 170 is best suited for felling trees with a diameter of 10 inches or less.
Lean: If the tree has a significant lean, it may be necessary to use specialized felling techniques.
Hanging Trees: If the tree gets hung up in other trees, do not attempt to climb the tree or dislodge it yourself. Contact a professional arborist.

Why This Works: The notch cut determines the direction of the fall, while the hinge controls the fall and prevents kickback. The wedges prevent the tree from pinching the saw and help to direct the fall.

Case Study: I once witnessed a homeowner attempt to fell a small tree without using a notch cut. The tree fell in an unexpected direction and damaged his fence. This could have been easily avoided by using the proper felling techniques.

Pro Tip #5: Optimizing Bucking and Limbing for Firewood Production

Once you’ve felled the tree, the next step is to buck it into manageable lengths and limb it. This process can be time-consuming and physically demanding, but with the right techniques and tools, you can optimize it for efficient firewood production. I’ve developed several strategies over the years to streamline this process and minimize strain.

Bucking Techniques

Bucking is the process of cutting a felled tree into smaller, more manageable lengths. Here are some tips for efficient bucking:

Plan Your Cuts: Before you start cutting, plan your cuts to minimize waste and maximize the number of firewood pieces you can produce. Consider the size of your wood stove or fireplace when determining the length of the pieces. A standard firewood length is 16 inches, but this can vary depending on your needs.
Support the Log: If the log is lying on the ground, support it with other logs or blocks of wood to prevent the chain from pinching.
Cutting Techniques:
- Overbuck: Cutting from the top of the log down. This is best for logs that are supported on both ends.
- Underbuck: Cutting from the bottom of the log up. This is best for logs that are supported in the middle.
- Boring Cut: Using the tip of the chainsaw to bore into the log. This is useful for relieving tension and preventing pinching. Use this technique with extreme caution due to the high risk of kickback.
Use a Sawhorse: A sawhorse can make bucking much easier and safer. It provides a stable platform for the log and keeps it off the ground.
Bucking Stand: A bucking stand is a specialized tool that holds multiple logs at once, allowing you to cut them all to the same length quickly and efficiently.

Limbing Techniques

Limbing is the process of removing branches from a felled tree. Here are some tips for efficient limbing:

Work from the Butt to the Top: Start limbing at the butt end of the tree and work your way towards the top. This will prevent you from tripping over branches.
Support the Branches: When cutting branches, support them with your hand or foot to prevent them from pinching the saw.
Cut Close to the Trunk: Cut the branches as close to the trunk as possible, but be careful not to damage the bark.
Use a Limbing Axe: A limbing axe is a specialized tool that is designed for removing branches quickly and efficiently.
Clear the Area: As you limb the tree, clear the branches from the area to prevent them from becoming a tripping hazard.

Stacking Firewood

Once you’ve bucked and limbed the tree, the next step is to stack the firewood. Proper stacking is essential for drying the wood and preventing rot.

Choose a Sunny and Windy Location: Choose a location that is exposed to sunlight and wind to promote drying.
Elevate the Wood: Elevate the wood off the ground to prevent it from absorbing moisture. You can use pallets, logs, or rocks to elevate the wood.
Stack Loosely: Stack the wood loosely to allow for air circulation.
Crisscross the Ends: Crisscross the ends of the rows to create a stable stack.
Cover the Top: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp or sheet of metal to protect it from rain and snow. Leave the sides open for air circulation.

Why This Works: Proper bucking and limbing techniques make the process faster, safer, and more efficient. Stacking the firewood properly promotes drying and prevents rot, ensuring that you have high-quality firewood for burning.

Case Study: I once helped a homeowner clear a large area of trees for a building project. He was struggling to buck and limb the trees efficiently. I showed him how to use a sawhorse and a limbing axe, and his productivity increased significantly. He was able to clear the area in half the time it would have taken him otherwise.

By mastering these five pro tips, you’ll be well on your way to using your Stihl MS 170 safely and efficiently for all your logging and firewood needs. Remember to always prioritize safety, maintain your equipment properly, and practice responsible forestry. Good luck, and happy cutting!

Stihl Chainsaw MS 170 Basics (5 Pro Tips for Efficient Logging)