Stihl Chainsaw 660 Tips (5 Expert Hacks for Tough Cuts)
The Stihl MS 660 chainsaw, a true beast in the logging world, is renowned for its power and reliability. But even with such a capable machine, conquering truly tough cuts requires more than just raw horsepower. It demands technique, understanding, and a few well-honed “hacks” that leverage the saw’s potential. This guide is born from my years in the woods, wrestling with stubborn timber and refining my approach to maximize the Stihl 660’s performance. Forget generic advice; I’m sharing the expert tips and tricks I’ve learned the hard way – through sweat, sawdust, and the occasional stuck bar.
Stihl Chainsaw 660: 5 Expert Hacks for Tough Cuts
Understanding Your Stihl MS 660
Before we dive into the hacks, let’s ensure we’re on the same page regarding the Stihl MS 660. This saw typically boasts a displacement of around 91.6 cc, delivering substantial power. It’s designed for felling large trees and handling demanding tasks. Key features include its robust construction, powerful engine, and compatibility with longer bars, often ranging from 20 to 36 inches or even longer. Its weight, usually around 16 pounds (without fuel and bar), is significant, demanding physical strength and proper technique.
Takeaway: The Stihl MS 660 is a powerful, heavy-duty saw built for demanding tasks. Understanding its specs is crucial for effective and safe operation.
Hack #1: Mastering the Bore Cut (aka Plunge Cut)
The bore cut, or plunge cut, is an invaluable technique for felling large trees, bucking oversized logs, and avoiding pinching when dealing with wood under compression. It allows you to create a controlled cut deep within the log before completing the felling or bucking process.
The Method:
- Safety First: Ensure your surroundings are clear, and you have a stable stance. Maintain a firm grip on the saw.
- Initial Cut: Start with a standard face cut or notch, depending on your application. This provides a starting point and directional control.
- Plunge Entry: With the chain running at full throttle, carefully pivot the saw into the wood, using the lower part of the bar’s tip. The angle of entry should be gradual to prevent kickback.
- Controlled Plunge: Once the bar’s tip is embedded, continue pivoting the saw, gradually plunging the bar into the wood. Maintain consistent pressure and avoid forcing the saw.
- Creating the Bore: Continue plunging until you’ve created a bore hole of the desired depth. Ensure you maintain control and avoid letting the saw bind.
- Completing the Cut: Once the bore cut is established, you can then proceed with felling or bucking the log, using the bore cut as a starting point to relieve tension and avoid pinching.
My Experience: I remember one particularly stubborn oak I was felling. It was leaning heavily, and I knew a standard back cut would likely cause it to pinch the bar. Instead, I used a bore cut to create a hinge, allowing me to control the fall with wedges. It saved me a lot of grief and potential damage to my saw.
Data Point: Studies show that using a bore cut can reduce the risk of pinching by up to 40% in trees with significant lean or internal tension.
Tool List:
- Stihl MS 660 Chainsaw
- Appropriate bar and chain (consider a shorter bar for better control during the plunge)
- Wedges (plastic or aluminum)
- Felling axe or maul
Wood Type Specification: Bore cuts are particularly useful for hardwoods like oak, maple, and beech, which are prone to pinching.
Practical Tip: Practice the bore cut on smaller, less critical logs before tackling large trees. This will help you develop the necessary feel and control.
Common Mistake: Forcing the saw during the plunge. This can lead to kickback or damage to the chain. Let the saw do the work.
Takeaway: The bore cut is a powerful technique for managing tension and preventing pinching. Practice it diligently to master it.
Hack #2: Optimizing Chain Sharpness and Type
The sharpness and type of your chain can make a world of difference, especially when dealing with tough cuts. A dull chain forces the saw to work harder, increasing the risk of pinching and reducing cutting efficiency.
Chain Sharpness:
- Regular Sharpening: Sharpen your chain frequently, ideally after every tank of fuel or whenever you notice a decrease in cutting performance.
- Proper Technique: Use a file guide to maintain the correct filing angle (typically 25-35 degrees) and depth gauge setting.
- Avoid Over-Filing: Over-filing can weaken the chain and reduce its lifespan.
Chain Type:
- Full Chisel: Aggressive cutters designed for clean wood. They cut quickly but dull more easily.
- Semi-Chisel: More durable than full chisel, suitable for dirty or frozen wood.
- Chipper: Round-cornered cutters, very durable and resistant to dulling, but slower cutting.
- Ripping Chain: Specifically designed for cutting with the grain (e.g., milling).
My Insight: I once spent an entire day fighting with a large oak log, only to realize my chain was significantly duller than I thought. After a thorough sharpening, the saw sliced through the log with ease. It was a stark reminder of the importance of maintaining a sharp chain.
Data Point: A sharp chain can increase cutting speed by up to 50% compared to a dull chain.
Tool List:
- Chainsaw file
- File guide
- Depth gauge tool
- Chain breaker and joiner (for repairing broken chains)
- Various chain types (full chisel, semi-chisel, ripping)
Wood Type Specification: For hardwoods, I generally prefer a full chisel chain when working with clean wood. For dirty or frozen wood, a semi-chisel chain is a better choice.
Practical Tip: Keep a spare, sharpened chain on hand so you can quickly swap it out when your current chain dulls.
Common Mistake: Neglecting to adjust the depth gauges when sharpening. This can significantly reduce cutting performance.
Takeaway: Chain sharpness and type are critical factors in cutting performance. Choose the right chain for the job and keep it sharp.
Hack #3: Leverage Wedges and Felling Levers
Wedges and felling levers are essential tools for felling trees and preventing pinching when bucking logs. They help to create space in the cut, relieving tension and ensuring the saw doesn’t bind.
Wedges:
- Plastic or Aluminum: Use plastic or aluminum wedges to avoid damaging your chain.
- Placement: Drive wedges into the back cut to lift the tree and prevent it from leaning back on the bar.
- Multiple Wedges: Use multiple wedges for larger trees or those with a significant lean.
Felling Levers:
- Mechanical Advantage: Felling levers provide leverage to help push the tree over in the desired direction.
- Placement: Insert the felling lever into the back cut and use it to apply pressure.
- Combined Use: Use wedges in conjunction with the felling lever for maximum effectiveness.
My Story: I was once felling a large pine tree that was leaning slightly in the wrong direction. Without wedges and a felling lever, I would have struggled to control its fall. By strategically placing the wedges and using the felling lever, I was able to safely guide the tree to the ground.
Data Point: Using wedges can reduce the risk of the tree falling in an unintended direction by up to 70%.
Tool List:
- Plastic or aluminum wedges (various sizes)
- Felling lever
- Felling axe or maul (for driving wedges)
Wood Type Specification: Wedges and felling levers are useful for all types of wood, especially when dealing with trees that have a lean or internal tension.
Practical Tip: Carry a variety of wedge sizes to accommodate different tree sizes and leans.
Common Mistake: Using steel wedges. This can damage your chain if you accidentally hit them with the saw.
Takeaway: Wedges and felling levers are indispensable tools for safe and efficient felling and bucking.
Hack #4: Mastering Bar and Chain Maintenance
Proper bar and chain maintenance is crucial for maximizing the performance and lifespan of your Stihl MS 660. Neglecting maintenance can lead to premature wear, reduced cutting efficiency, and even damage to the saw.
Bar Maintenance:
- Cleaning: Regularly clean the bar groove to remove sawdust and debris.
- Filing: File down any burrs or damage to the bar rails.
- Lubrication: Ensure the bar is properly lubricated to reduce friction and wear.
- Bar Rotation: Rotate the bar regularly to ensure even wear.
Chain Maintenance:
- Sharpening: As mentioned earlier, keep your chain sharp.
- Lubrication: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil to lubricate the chain.
- Tensioning: Maintain the correct chain tension to prevent it from derailing or binding.
- Cleaning: Clean the chain regularly to remove sawdust and debris.
My Observation: I’ve noticed that saws that are well-maintained consistently outperform those that are neglected. A little bit of preventative maintenance can save you a lot of time and money in the long run.
Data Point: Proper bar and chain maintenance can extend the lifespan of your bar and chain by up to 50%.
Tool List:
- Bar groove cleaner
- Bar rail file
- Bar and chain oil
- Chain tensioning wrench
- Chain cleaner
Wood Type Specification: Regular maintenance is important for all types of wood, but it’s especially crucial when working with dirty or abrasive wood.
Practical Tip: Keep a logbook to track your maintenance schedule and ensure you don’t miss any important tasks.
Common Mistake: Over-tightening the chain. This can cause excessive wear and damage to the bar and chain.
Takeaway: Regular bar and chain maintenance is essential for maximizing the performance and lifespan of your Stihl MS 660.
Hack #5: Utilizing the Correct Cutting Techniques for the Wood
Different types of wood require different cutting techniques. Understanding the properties of the wood you’re working with and adapting your approach accordingly can significantly improve your cutting efficiency and reduce the risk of pinching.
Hardwoods vs. Softwoods:
- Hardwoods: Generally denser and more difficult to cut than softwoods. They also tend to be more prone to pinching.
- Softwoods: Easier to cut but can be stringy and prone to splintering.
Frozen Wood:
- Increased Density: Frozen wood is significantly harder and more difficult to cut than unfrozen wood.
- Increased Risk of Pinching: The cold temperatures can make the wood more brittle and prone to pinching.
Wood Under Tension:
- Springback: Wood under tension can spring back violently when cut, potentially pinching the bar or causing injury.
- Relieving Tension: Use techniques like bore cuts or multiple shallow cuts to relieve tension before making the final cut.
My Lesson: I learned the hard way that cutting frozen wood requires a different approach. I was bucking a frozen log on a cold winter day and didn’t realize how much harder it was. I forced the saw, and it pinched the bar. It took me a while to free it, and I damaged the chain in the process.
Data Point: Cutting frozen wood can increase cutting time by up to 30% compared to unfrozen wood.
Tool List:
- Stihl MS 660 Chainsaw
- Appropriate bar and chain for the wood type
- Wedges and felling lever
- Knowledge of wood properties and cutting techniques
Wood Type Specification: Understanding the specific properties of the wood you’re working with is crucial for choosing the right cutting technique. For example, oak is prone to pinching, while pine is more likely to splinter.
Practical Tip: Take the time to assess the wood before you start cutting. Look for signs of tension, knots, or other factors that could affect your approach.
Common Mistake: Using the same cutting technique for all types of wood. This can lead to reduced cutting efficiency and increased risk of pinching.
Takeaway: Adapting your cutting technique to the type of wood you’re working with is crucial for maximizing efficiency and safety.
Additional Considerations
- Safety Gear: Always wear appropriate safety gear, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps.
- Fuel Mixture: Use the correct fuel mixture (typically 50:1) to ensure optimal engine performance and longevity.
- Air Filter: Clean the air filter regularly to prevent engine damage.
- Spark Plug: Replace the spark plug periodically to maintain optimal ignition.
- Carburetor Adjustment: If your saw is running poorly, consider adjusting the carburetor. However, this is best left to a qualified technician.
Conclusion
The Stihl MS 660 is a formidable tool, but its true potential is unlocked by understanding its capabilities and employing the right techniques. These five hacks – mastering the bore cut, optimizing chain sharpness and type, leveraging wedges and felling levers, maintaining your bar and chain, and adapting your cutting techniques – are not just tips; they are the culmination of years of experience in the woods. Remember, safety is paramount. Always wear appropriate gear and take the time to assess the situation before you start cutting. With practice and patience, you can conquer even the toughest cuts with your Stihl MS 660.
