Stihl BR600 Leaf Blower For Wood Processing (5 Pro Tips)

Let’s dive into the world of wood processing and explore how a seemingly simple tool – the Stihl BR600 leaf blower – can become an indispensable ally. While it’s known for tidying up leaves, I’ve discovered its versatility extends far beyond autumn cleanup. For years, I’ve used this blower in my own wood processing operations, and I’m excited to share five pro tips that will transform how you think about this tool. Wood processing is a timeless craft, essential for everything from construction to heating our homes. Mastering these techniques not only increases efficiency but also enhances the quality of your final product, whether it’s perfectly seasoned firewood or meticulously prepared lumber.

Stihl BR600 Leaf Blower for Wood Processing: 5 Pro Tips

The Stihl BR600 leaf blower isn’t just for clearing leaves; it’s a powerful tool that can significantly enhance your wood processing workflow. It’s all about leveraging its airflow in creative ways. Over the years, I’ve found it invaluable in various stages, from initial cleanup to final preparation. I remember one particularly muddy logging site where the BR600 was the only thing that kept my chainsaw from bogging down in the muck. That experience solidified its place in my toolkit.

Tip 1: Efficient Sawdust and Debris Removal

One of the most immediate benefits of using a leaf blower in wood processing is its ability to clear sawdust and debris quickly and efficiently. After felling a tree or milling lumber, the accumulation of sawdust can be a real nuisance. It obscures your work area, clogs machinery, and can even pose a fire hazard.

Problem: Sawdust accumulation hinders visibility and clogs equipment.
Solution: Use the Stihl BR600 to blow away sawdust from your chainsaw, mill, and work surfaces.

Step-by-Step Guide:

Preparation: Ensure the area is clear of obstructions and that you’re wearing appropriate safety gear, including eye protection and a dust mask.
Initial Blow: Start with a wide sweeping motion to clear the bulk of the sawdust from the area. Maintain a safe distance to avoid scattering debris excessively.
Targeted Cleaning: Use the blower’s nozzle to focus the airflow on specific areas, such as the chainsaw’s bar and chain, the milling platform, or any other machinery that needs cleaning.
Final Sweep: Once you’ve cleared the immediate work area, perform a final sweep to remove any remaining sawdust and debris.

Benefits:

Improved Visibility: A clean work area allows you to see what you’re doing more clearly, reducing the risk of accidents.
Extended Equipment Life: Removing sawdust from machinery prevents clogging and overheating, extending its lifespan.
Enhanced Safety: Reducing sawdust accumulation minimizes the risk of fire and other hazards.

Example: I once had a chainsaw overheat and nearly seize up because the cooling fins were completely clogged with sawdust. Now, I make it a habit to blow off my saw after every few cuts, which has significantly reduced maintenance issues.

Technical Details:

The Stihl BR600 has an air volume of up to 770 cfm (cubic feet per minute), providing ample power for clearing sawdust and debris.
The adjustable nozzle allows you to control the airflow, directing it precisely where you need it.

Tip 2: Accelerating Wood Drying

Properly drying wood is crucial for preventing warping, cracking, and fungal growth. While traditional air-drying can take months or even years, the Stihl BR600 can help accelerate the process, especially for surface drying.

Problem: Slow drying times lead to delays and potential wood damage.
Solution: Use the leaf blower to increase airflow around stacked wood, promoting faster evaporation of moisture.

Step-by-Step Guide:

Stacking: Stack the wood in a well-ventilated area, ensuring adequate spacing between pieces for airflow. I typically use stickers (small pieces of wood) between layers to create consistent gaps. For firewood, I prefer a crisscross stack for maximum air exposure.
Blowing: Use the leaf blower to direct airflow through the stacked wood, focusing on areas where moisture tends to accumulate, such as the ends of the logs or the center of the stack.
Frequency: Repeat the blowing process regularly, especially during humid or rainy weather. I find that blowing the stacks for about 15-20 minutes every other day makes a noticeable difference.
Monitoring: Use a moisture meter to track the wood’s moisture content. Aim for a moisture content of 20% or less for firewood and 12-15% for lumber.

Benefits:

Reduced Drying Time: Increased airflow promotes faster evaporation of moisture, shortening the drying process.
Minimized Wood Damage: Faster drying reduces the risk of warping, cracking, and fungal growth.
Improved Wood Quality: Properly dried wood is more stable and easier to work with.

Example: I once used this technique to dry a batch of walnut lumber that I needed for a rush project. By blowing the stacks regularly, I was able to reduce the drying time by several weeks, allowing me to meet my deadline.

Technical Details:

Airflow is key to evaporation. The BR600’s high air volume helps to displace humid air and replace it with drier air, accelerating the drying process.
Moisture meters are essential for monitoring the wood’s moisture content. Accurate readings ensure that the wood is properly dried before use. I’ve found that pin-type meters tend to be more accurate for thicker pieces of wood.

Tip 3: Cleaning Logs Before Milling

Before milling logs into lumber, it’s essential to remove any dirt, bark, or debris that could damage your saw blades or contaminate the wood. The Stihl BR600 can be a valuable tool for this purpose, especially for removing loose bark and surface dirt.

Problem: Dirt and debris on logs can damage saw blades and contaminate lumber.
Solution: Use the leaf blower to remove loose bark, dirt, and other debris from logs before milling.

Step-by-Step Guide:

Preparation: Place the log on a stable surface and ensure that you have adequate space to work around it.
Initial Inspection: Examine the log for any loose bark, dirt, or debris.
Blowing: Use the leaf blower to direct airflow onto the log, focusing on areas where debris is most likely to accumulate, such as cracks, crevices, and the base of the bark.
Scraping (Optional): For stubborn debris, use a scraper or wire brush to loosen it before blowing it away.
Final Inspection: After blowing the log, inspect it again to ensure that all loose debris has been removed.

Benefits:

Extended Saw Blade Life: Removing dirt and debris reduces wear and tear on saw blades, extending their lifespan.
Improved Lumber Quality: Clean logs produce cleaner lumber, free from dirt and contaminants.
Enhanced Safety: Removing loose bark and debris reduces the risk of kickback and other accidents.

Example: I once ruined a perfectly good bandsaw blade by trying to mill a log that was covered in dirt and embedded rocks. Now, I always take the time to clean my logs thoroughly before milling, using the BR600 to remove loose debris and a pressure washer for more stubborn dirt.

Technical Details:

The force of the airflow from the BR600 is sufficient to remove most loose bark and surface dirt.
For heavily soiled logs, consider using a pressure washer in conjunction with the leaf blower for a more thorough cleaning.

Tip 4: Clearing Work Areas After Felling

After felling a tree, the work area can be littered with branches, leaves, and other debris. The Stihl BR600 can help clear the area quickly and efficiently, making it safer and easier to work in.

Problem: Debris-filled work areas are hazardous and impede progress.
Solution: Use the leaf blower to clear branches, leaves, and other debris from the work area after felling.

Step-by-Step Guide:

Safety First: Before clearing the area, ensure that the tree has been safely felled and that there are no hanging limbs or other hazards.
Initial Clearing: Start by clearing the immediate area around the felled tree, removing any branches or debris that could pose a tripping hazard.
Systematic Clearing: Work your way outwards from the tree, systematically clearing the entire work area. Use the leaf blower to gather debris into piles for easy removal.
Final Sweep: Once you’ve cleared the bulk of the debris, perform a final sweep to remove any remaining leaves or small branches.

Benefits:

Enhanced Safety: A clean work area reduces the risk of tripping, falling, and other accidents.
Improved Efficiency: Clearing the area makes it easier to move around and work, increasing efficiency.
Reduced Cleanup Time: The leaf blower allows you to clear the area much faster than you could by hand.

Example: I remember one particularly dense forest where felling a single tree created a massive pile of debris. Without the BR600, it would have taken me hours to clear the area. With the blower, I was able to get the job done in a fraction of the time.

Technical Details:

The Stihl BR600’s high air volume and adjustable nozzle make it ideal for clearing large areas quickly and efficiently.
Consider using a debris tarp to collect the debris as you blow it, making it easier to dispose of.

Tip 5: Cooling Down Chainsaws

Chainsaws generate a lot of heat during operation, and overheating can lead to damage and reduced performance. While proper lubrication and maintenance are essential for preventing overheating, the Stihl BR600 can also be used to help cool down the saw after prolonged use.

Problem: Overheating can damage chainsaws and reduce their performance.
Solution: Use the leaf blower to direct airflow onto the chainsaw’s engine and cooling fins, helping to dissipate heat.

Step-by-Step Guide:

Safety First: Before cooling down the chainsaw, ensure that it is turned off and that the chain brake is engaged.
Initial Cooling: Allow the chainsaw to cool down naturally for a few minutes before using the leaf blower.
Blowing: Use the leaf blower to direct airflow onto the chainsaw’s engine and cooling fins, focusing on areas where heat tends to accumulate.
Monitoring: Monitor the chainsaw’s temperature by touching the engine block. If it is still too hot to touch comfortably, continue blowing it down for a few more minutes.

Benefits:

Reduced Overheating Risk: Cooling down the chainsaw helps to prevent overheating, reducing the risk of damage and performance loss.
Extended Equipment Life: Preventing overheating can extend the lifespan of your chainsaw.
Improved Performance: A cooler chainsaw operates more efficiently, providing better performance.

Example: I often use this technique after felling several trees in a row, especially on hot days. By cooling down my chainsaw regularly, I’ve been able to avoid overheating issues and keep it running smoothly.

Technical Details:

The airflow from the BR600 helps to dissipate heat from the chainsaw’s engine and cooling fins.
Ensure that you do not blow dirt or debris into the chainsaw’s engine or cooling fins, as this could cause further damage.

Key Concepts in Wood Processing

Before diving deeper, let’s define some key terms that are fundamental to wood processing:

Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood: Green wood is freshly cut wood with a high moisture content, typically above 30%. Seasoned wood, on the other hand, has been dried to a moisture content of 20% or less for firewood, and 12-15% for lumber. Seasoning reduces weight, minimizes warping and cracking, and improves burning efficiency for firewood.
Board Foot: A unit of measurement for lumber, equal to 144 cubic inches (e.g., a board 1 inch thick, 12 inches wide, and 12 inches long).
Kerf: The width of the cut made by a saw blade. Understanding kerf is crucial for accurate lumber measurements.
Reaction Wood: Wood that forms in leaning trees or trees exposed to strong winds. It has different properties than normal wood and can cause problems during processing and drying.
Case Hardening: A condition that occurs when wood dries too quickly, causing the outer layers to dry and shrink before the inner layers. This can lead to stress and cracking.
Quarter Sawn, Rift Sawn, Plain Sawn: Different sawing methods that affect the grain pattern and stability of lumber. Quarter sawn lumber is the most stable and resistant to warping, while plain sawn lumber is the least stable but also the most economical to produce.
Air Drying vs. Kiln Drying: Two methods of drying wood. Air drying is a natural process that takes months or years, while kiln drying uses controlled heat and humidity to dry wood in a matter of days or weeks. Kiln drying is more expensive but produces more consistent results.

Detailed Guide to Wood Processing Techniques

Now, let’s explore some essential wood processing techniques in detail:

1. Felling Techniques

Felling a tree safely and efficiently is the first step in wood processing. Here’s a breakdown of the process:

Step-by-Step Guide:

Assess the Tree: Before making any cuts, assess the tree for lean, wind direction, and any potential hazards, such as dead limbs or power lines.
Clear the Area: Clear a path of escape around the tree and remove any obstacles that could impede your movements.
Notch Cut: Make a notch cut on the side of the tree that you want it to fall towards. The notch should be about one-third of the tree’s diameter. The angle of the notch should be between 45 and 60 degrees.
Back Cut: Make a back cut on the opposite side of the tree, slightly above the bottom of the notch. Leave a hinge of wood to control the tree’s fall.
Wedge (Optional): If the tree is leaning in the wrong direction, use a felling wedge to help guide its fall. Insert the wedge into the back cut and drive it in with a hammer or axe.
Final Cut: Once the tree starts to fall, move away from the base of the tree and watch for any unexpected movements.

Tools:

Chainsaw: Choose a chainsaw that is appropriate for the size of the tree. A chainsaw with a bar length of 18-20 inches is typically sufficient for most trees. I prefer Stihl or Husqvarna chainsaws for their reliability and performance.
Axe or Hatchet: Used for clearing brush and driving felling wedges.
Felling Wedge: Used to help guide the tree’s fall.
Measuring Tape: Used to measure the tree’s diameter and determine the appropriate size of the notch and back cut.
Safety Gear: Always wear a hard hat, eye protection, hearing protection, and chainsaw chaps when felling trees.

Case Study: I once had to fell a large oak tree that was leaning towards a house. The tree was also located near a power line, which made the situation even more challenging. I carefully assessed the tree and determined that the best approach was to use a felling wedge to guide its fall away from the house and power line. I made a precise notch cut and back cut, and then inserted the wedge into the back cut. As I drove the wedge in, the tree slowly began to lean in the desired direction. With a final push, the tree fell exactly where I wanted it to, avoiding any damage to the house or power line.

2. Debarking Logs

Debarking logs is the process of removing the bark from the wood. This can be done manually with hand tools or mechanically with a debarking machine.

Manual Debarking:

Tools: Spud, drawknife, axe.
Process: Use the spud or drawknife to peel the bark from the log. For thicker bark, use an axe to score the bark before peeling it off.
Benefits: Low cost, simple, and suitable for small-scale operations.
Drawbacks: Time-consuming and labor-intensive.

Mechanical Debarking:

Machine Types: Ring debarkers, rosserhead debarkers.
Process: Logs are fed through the debarking machine, which uses rotating blades or knives to remove the bark.
Benefits: Fast, efficient, and suitable for large-scale operations.
Drawbacks: High initial cost and requires specialized equipment.

Benefits of Debarking:

Improved Drying: Debarking allows the wood to dry more quickly and evenly.
Reduced Insect Infestation: Bark can harbor insects that can damage the wood.
Cleaner Lumber: Debarking produces cleaner lumber, free from bark and contaminants.

Case Study: I built a small log cabin using hand-peeled logs. The process was time-consuming, but I enjoyed the hands-on aspect of it. I used a drawknife to peel the bark from the logs, and the result was a beautiful, rustic cabin with a natural look.

3. Splitting Firewood

Splitting firewood is the process of dividing logs into smaller pieces that are suitable for burning in a fireplace or wood stove.

Manual Splitting:

Tools: Axe, maul, splitting wedge.
Process: Place the log on a chopping block and strike it with the axe or maul. If the log is difficult to split, use a splitting wedge to help break it apart.
Benefits: Low cost, simple, and suitable for small-scale operations.
Drawbacks: Labor-intensive and can be physically demanding.

Mechanical Splitting:

Machine Types: Hydraulic log splitters, kinetic log splitters.
Process: Logs are placed on the log splitter, which uses hydraulic or kinetic force to split the wood.
Benefits: Fast, efficient, and reduces physical strain.
Drawbacks: High initial cost and requires specialized equipment.

Step-by-Step Guide (Manual Splitting):

Choose the Right Axe: A maul is heavier than an axe and is better suited for splitting larger logs. An axe is better for smaller logs and kindling. I use a 6-pound maul for most of my splitting.
Select a Good Chopping Block: The chopping block should be made of a dense, stable wood, such as oak or maple. It should also be large enough to accommodate the logs you are splitting.
Position the Log: Place the log on the chopping block with the grain running vertically. If the log has knots or other imperfections, try to split it along a line that avoids these areas.
Swing the Axe: Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart and grip the axe with both hands. Swing the axe over your head and bring it down on the log with force.
Use a Splitting Wedge (If Necessary): If the log is difficult to split, insert a splitting wedge into the crack and drive it in with a hammer or maul.
Stack the Firewood: Once the firewood is split, stack it in a well-ventilated area to allow it to dry.

Safety Considerations:

Always wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from flying debris.
Wear gloves to protect your hands from blisters and splinters.
Keep your feet clear of the axe’s path.
Be aware of your surroundings and make sure there are no people or obstacles in the area.

Case Study: I used to split all of my firewood by hand, but after a few years, I decided to invest in a hydraulic log splitter. The log splitter has made the job much easier and faster, and it has also reduced the amount of physical strain on my body. I can now split a cord of firewood in a fraction of the time it used to take me.

4. Stacking Firewood

Properly stacking firewood is essential for ensuring that it dries quickly and efficiently.

Stacking Methods:

Crisscross Stack: This method involves stacking the firewood in a crisscross pattern, which allows for maximum air circulation.
Holz Hausen: A circular stack that is self-supporting and provides excellent air circulation.
Linear Stack: A simple stack that is easy to build but does not provide as much air circulation as the other methods.

Step-by-Step Guide (Crisscross Stack):

Choose a Location: Select a well-drained location that is exposed to sunlight and wind.
Build a Base: Build a base of rocks or pallets to keep the firewood off the ground.
Stack the Firewood: Stack the firewood in a crisscross pattern, alternating the direction of each layer.
Leave Space for Air Circulation: Leave space between the stacks to allow for air circulation.
Cover the Top (Optional): Cover the top of the stack with a tarp to protect the firewood from rain and snow.

Benefits of Proper Stacking:

Faster Drying: Proper stacking allows for maximum air circulation, which promotes faster drying.
Reduced Rot: Proper stacking helps to prevent rot and decay.
Easier Access: A well-stacked pile of firewood is easier to access and manage.

Case Study: I experimented with different firewood stacking methods and found that the Holz Hausen method provided the best air circulation and drying. The circular shape also made the stack very stable and visually appealing. It does take a little more effort to construct, but the benefits are worth it.

5. Understanding Wood Types

Different wood types have different properties that make them suitable for different purposes.

Hardwoods vs. Softwoods: Hardwoods are generally denser and stronger than softwoods, and they burn longer and hotter. Softwoods are easier to work with and are often used for construction and paper production.
Common Wood Types:
- Oak: A dense, strong hardwood that is ideal for firewood, furniture, and flooring.
- Maple: A hard, strong hardwood that is used for furniture, flooring, and musical instruments.
- Cherry: A beautiful hardwood that is used for furniture and cabinetry.
- Pine: A softwood that is used for construction, furniture, and paper production.
- Fir: A softwood that is used for construction, paper production, and Christmas trees.

Selecting the Right Wood Type:

Firewood: Choose hardwoods, such as oak, maple, and ash, for their high heat output and long burn time.
Construction: Choose softwoods, such as pine and fir, for their ease of workability and affordability.
Furniture: Choose hardwoods, such as oak, maple, and cherry, for their strength, durability, and beauty.

Data and Insights:

Moisture Content: Different wood types dry at different rates. Softwoods generally dry faster than hardwoods.
Heat Output: The heat output of firewood is measured in BTUs (British Thermal Units). Oak has a higher BTU rating than pine.
Density: The density of wood is measured in pounds per cubic foot. Hardwoods are generally denser than softwoods.

Strategic Advantages of Efficient Wood Processing

Beyond the practical steps, understanding the strategic advantages of efficient wood processing is crucial for long-term success:

Cost Savings: Efficient wood processing reduces waste, minimizes labor costs, and extends the lifespan of your equipment.
Increased Productivity: Streamlined processes allow you to produce more firewood or lumber in less time.
Improved Quality: Proper drying and processing techniques result in higher-quality wood products.
Environmental Sustainability: Efficient wood processing reduces waste and promotes responsible forest management.
Market Competitiveness: By producing high-quality wood products at a competitive price, you can gain a significant advantage in the marketplace.

Safety Considerations

Safety should always be a top priority in wood processing. Here are some essential safety considerations:

Assess Your Needs: Determine what type of wood processing you want to focus on (firewood, lumber, etc.) and what tools and equipment you will need.
Gather Your Resources: Collect the necessary tools, equipment, and materials.
Start Small: Begin with small-scale projects to gain experience and confidence.
Practice Regularly: The more you practice, the better you will become at wood processing.
Seek Feedback: Ask experienced wood processors for feedback on your techniques.
Stay Safe: Always prioritize safety and follow all safety guidelines.

Wood processing is a rewarding and challenging craft that can provide you with a valuable skill and a sustainable source of income. By following the techniques and guidelines outlined in this guide, you can become a skilled and efficient wood processor. And remember, don’t underestimate the power of a Stihl BR600 leaf blower – it’s more than just a leaf blower; it’s a versatile tool that can enhance your wood processing workflow in many ways. Good luck, and happy wood processing!

Stihl BR600 Leaf Blower for Wood Processing (5 Pro Tips)

Stihl BR600 Leaf Blower for Wood Processing: 5 Pro Tips