Stihl 880 Price Guide (5 Pro Tips for Wood Processing Experts)
It seems paradoxical, doesn’t it? The Stihl 880, a beast of a chainsaw, capable of felling giants, paired with the seemingly simple task of wood processing. You might think, “Why would I need such a powerful saw for firewood?” or “Isn’t wood processing just about splitting logs?” The truth, however, is far more nuanced. The Stihl 880, while admittedly overkill for some tasks, can be a game-changer in specific scenarios, especially when paired with the right knowledge and techniques. And wood processing, far from being a simple chore, is an art and a science that can significantly impact the efficiency, safety, and profitability of any operation, whether you’re a homeowner preparing for winter or a seasoned logging professional.
In this guide, I’ll share my insights, honed over years of working with wood, from felling timber in the dense forests of the Pacific Northwest to preparing firewood in the crisp mountain air. I’ll delve into the Stihl 880, its capabilities, and its place in the world of wood processing. More importantly, I’ll provide you with five pro tips that will elevate your wood processing skills, regardless of the chainsaw you use.
The Stihl 880: A Titan Among Chainsaws
Before we dive into the pro tips, let’s address the elephant in the room: the Stihl 880. This chainsaw isn’t your average homeowner model. It’s a professional-grade, high-displacement saw designed for the most demanding tasks.
- Engine Displacement: Typically around 121.6 cc (cubic centimeters), providing immense power.
- Weight: Expect a significant weight, often exceeding 22 pounds (10 kg) without the bar and chain.
- Bar Length: Can accommodate bars ranging from 30 inches to over 48 inches, allowing you to tackle massive trees.
- Cost: The Stihl 880 is a premium saw, with prices often ranging from $1,500 to $2,000 or more, depending on the configuration and location.
The Stihl 880 is ideal for:
- Felling large, mature trees: This is where it truly shines. Its power allows you to quickly and efficiently fell trees that would be a struggle for smaller saws.
- Milling lumber: With an Alaskan mill attachment, the 880 can be used to create lumber from logs, opening up possibilities for custom projects and woodworking.
- Heavy-duty bucking: Cutting large logs into manageable lengths is a breeze with the 880.
However, it’s crucial to understand that the Stihl 880 is not for everyone. Its size and power require significant skill and experience to operate safely. It’s also not the most practical choice for smaller tasks like limbing or cutting small firewood.
My Experience: I recall one project where we were tasked with clearing a stand of old-growth Douglas fir. These trees were giants, some exceeding 4 feet in diameter. Using smaller saws would have been incredibly time-consuming and physically demanding. The Stihl 880, however, allowed us to fell these trees efficiently and safely, significantly reducing the project’s overall timeline.
Pro Tip #1: Mastering the Art of Felling
Felling a tree is more than just cutting it down; it’s a controlled process that requires careful planning and execution. A poorly felled tree can cause significant damage, injury, or even death.
Key Concepts:
- Lean: The natural inclination of the tree to fall in a particular direction.
- Hinge: The strip of wood left uncut during felling, which controls the direction of the fall.
- Back Cut: The final cut that severs the tree, allowing it to fall.
- Escape Route: A pre-planned path to retreat from the falling tree.
Step-by-Step Guide:
- Assess the Situation: Evaluate the tree’s lean, wind conditions, surrounding obstacles (other trees, power lines, buildings), and the terrain. Look for dead limbs or other hazards that could fall during the process.
- Plan Your Escape Route: Identify two escape routes, each at a 45-degree angle away from the intended direction of fall. Clear these paths of any obstacles.
- Make the Notch: The notch determines the direction of the fall. It typically consists of two cuts:
- The Face Cut: A downward angled cut, typically at a 45-degree angle, that penetrates about one-third of the tree’s diameter.
- The Back Cut: A horizontal cut that meets the face cut.
- Establish the Hinge: The hinge is crucial for controlling the fall. It should be approximately 80% of the tree’s diameter wide and about 10% of the diameter thick.
- Make the Back Cut: This cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch, slightly above the horizontal cut of the notch. Leave the hinge intact.
- Drive Wedges (Optional): For larger trees or trees with a significant lean in the wrong direction, use felling wedges to help push the tree over. Insert the wedges into the back cut and drive them in with a hammer or axe.
- Complete the Back Cut: Once the tree starts to lean, remove the chainsaw and retreat along your planned escape route.
- Observe the Fall: Watch the tree fall and be aware of any potential hazards, such as falling limbs.
Tool Specifications:
- Chainsaw: The Stihl 880 is ideal for large trees, but a smaller saw can be used for smaller trees.
- Axe or Hammer: For driving in felling wedges.
- Felling Wedges: Made of plastic or aluminum, used to help push the tree over.
- Measuring Tape: To accurately measure the tree’s diameter and plan the cuts.
Safety Considerations:
- Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE), including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, chainsaw chaps, and gloves.
- Never fell a tree alone. Have a spotter who can warn you of potential hazards.
- Be aware of your surroundings and potential hazards.
- Never fell a tree in high winds or other hazardous conditions.
Original Insight: I’ve found that paying close attention to the wood grain can help predict how a tree will fall. Trees with spiral grain can be particularly challenging to fell accurately.
Case Study: On one project, we were felling trees near a property line. The trees had a slight lean towards the property, which was unacceptable. By carefully using felling wedges and paying close attention to the hinge, we were able to fell the trees safely and accurately, away from the property line.
Pro Tip #2: Optimize Bucking Techniques for Efficiency
Bucking is the process of cutting felled trees into manageable lengths. Efficient bucking techniques can save time, reduce strain, and maximize the yield of usable wood.
Key Concepts:
- Limbing: Removing branches from the felled tree.
- Bucking Length: The desired length of the logs, typically determined by the intended use (firewood, lumber, etc.).
- Support: Ensuring the log is properly supported to prevent pinching of the chainsaw bar.
Step-by-Step Guide:
- Limb the Tree: Remove all branches from the felled tree. Use a chainsaw or axe, depending on the size of the branches.
- Measure and Mark: Measure the desired bucking length and mark the log at the cut points.
- Assess the Log: Determine how the log is supported and where it is likely to pinch the chainsaw bar.
- Make the Cuts: Use appropriate bucking techniques to avoid pinching.
- Top Cut: If the log is supported at both ends, make a cut from the top, about one-third of the way through the log.
- Bottom Cut: Finish the cut from the bottom, meeting the top cut.
- Hanging Cut: If the log is supported in the middle, make a cut from the bottom, about one-third of the way through the log.
- Top Cut: Finish the cut from the top, meeting the bottom cut.
- Stack the Logs: Stack the bucked logs in a safe and accessible location.
Tool Specifications:
- Chainsaw: The Stihl 880 can be used for bucking large logs, but a smaller saw may be more practical for smaller logs.
- Measuring Tape: To accurately measure the bucking length.
- Cant Hook or Peavey: To help roll and position the logs.
- Log Stand: To provide a stable platform for bucking smaller logs.
Safety Considerations:
- Always wear appropriate PPE.
- Be aware of potential pinch points and kickback.
- Use caution when working on slopes or uneven terrain.
Original Insight: I’ve found that using a chainsaw with a chain brake is essential for safe bucking. The chain brake can quickly stop the chain in the event of kickback, preventing serious injury.
Case Study: I once worked on a project where we were bucking large oak logs for firewood. The logs were heavy and difficult to handle. By using a cant hook and a log stand, we were able to buck the logs safely and efficiently, significantly reducing the amount of physical strain.
Pro Tip #3: The Science of Wood Splitting
Splitting wood efficiently and safely is crucial for firewood preparation. Understanding the properties of wood and using the right tools can make the process much easier.
Key Concepts:
- Green Wood: Freshly cut wood with a high moisture content.
- Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been dried, reducing its moisture content.
- Grain: The direction of the wood fibers.
- Knots: Hard, dense areas in the wood where branches grew.
Step-by-Step Guide:
- Choose the Right Tool:
- Axe: Suitable for splitting smaller, easier-to-split logs.
- Splitting Maul: A heavier tool with a wedge-shaped head, ideal for splitting larger, tougher logs.
- Hydraulic Log Splitter: A powered machine that uses hydraulic pressure to split logs.
- Position the Log: Place the log on a stable surface, such as a splitting block or a log stand.
- Aim for the Weak Points: Look for cracks, knots, or other weak points in the wood. Aim your swing or the log splitter’s wedge at these points.
- Split the Log:
- Axe or Maul: Swing the axe or maul with a controlled motion, aiming for the target point.
- Hydraulic Log Splitter: Place the log on the splitter bed and activate the hydraulic ram.
- Stack the Split Wood: Stack the split wood in a location that allows for good air circulation, promoting drying.
Tool Specifications:
- Axe: Choose an axe with a sharp blade and a comfortable handle.
- Splitting Maul: Look for a maul with a heavy head and a durable handle.
- Hydraulic Log Splitter: Available in various sizes and power levels. Choose a splitter that is appropriate for the size and type of logs you will be splitting. (Ton rating is important, aim for 20+ tons for hardwoods)
- Splitting Block: A sturdy block of wood used as a base for splitting logs.
Safety Considerations:
- Always wear appropriate PPE, including eye protection, gloves, and steel-toed boots.
- Maintain a safe distance from others when splitting wood.
- Be aware of your surroundings and potential hazards.
Original Insight: I’ve found that splitting wood when it’s frozen can make the process much easier. The cold temperatures make the wood more brittle and easier to split. However, always be extra cautious when handling tools in cold weather, as your grip may be compromised.
Case Study: I once helped a friend split a large pile of oak firewood. We started by using an axe and a maul, but it was slow and tiring. We then rented a hydraulic log splitter, which made the process much faster and easier. We were able to split the entire pile of wood in a fraction of the time it would have taken with hand tools.
Pro Tip #4: Mastering Wood Seasoning for Optimal Burning
Seasoning wood is the process of drying it to reduce its moisture content. Properly seasoned wood burns more efficiently, produces more heat, and creates less smoke.
Key Concepts:
- Moisture Content: The amount of water in the wood, expressed as a percentage of the wood’s dry weight.
- Air Drying: The most common method of seasoning wood, which involves stacking the wood in a location that allows for good air circulation.
- Kiln Drying: A faster method of seasoning wood, which involves using a kiln to heat the wood and remove moisture.
Step-by-Step Guide:
- Split the Wood: Splitting the wood increases the surface area exposed to air, speeding up the drying process.
- Stack the Wood: Stack the split wood in a location that allows for good air circulation.
- Elevate the Wood: Place the wood on pallets or other supports to keep it off the ground.
- Leave Space Between Rows: Leave space between rows of wood to allow air to circulate freely.
- Cover the Top: Cover the top of the wood pile with a tarp or other waterproof material to protect it from rain and snow.
- Monitor Moisture Content: Use a moisture meter to monitor the moisture content of the wood.
- Allow Adequate Drying Time: The amount of time required to season wood depends on the type of wood, the climate, and the stacking method. Generally, hardwoods require at least six months to a year to season properly.
Tool Specifications:
- Moisture Meter: Used to measure the moisture content of the wood.
- Pallets or Other Supports: To elevate the wood off the ground.
- Tarp or Other Waterproof Material: To protect the wood from rain and snow.
Safety Considerations:
- Be careful when stacking wood to avoid injury.
- Wear gloves to protect your hands from splinters.
Original Insight: I’ve found that the best time to cut firewood is in the late winter or early spring. The trees have had all winter to dry out, and the sap content is lower, which makes the wood easier to split and season.
Case Study: I once bought a load of “seasoned” firewood from a local supplier. When I tested the moisture content with a moisture meter, I found that it was still very high. I ended up having to stack the wood and allow it to dry for several months before I could burn it. This experience taught me the importance of checking the moisture content of firewood before buying it.
Moisture Content Targets:
- For optimal burning: 15-20% moisture content.
- Acceptable range: Below 25% for most stoves.
- Green wood: Can exceed 50% moisture content.
Pro Tip #5: Strategic Stacking and Storage
Proper stacking and storage are essential for efficient drying, easy access, and preventing wood rot. It’s more than just piling wood; it’s about creating a system.
Key Concepts:
- Airflow: Maximizing airflow around the woodpile to promote drying.
- Protection from the Elements: Shielding the wood from rain, snow, and direct sunlight.
- Accessibility: Arranging the woodpile for easy access and retrieval.
- Space Optimization: Utilizing available space efficiently.
Step-by-Step Guide:
- Choose a Suitable Location: Select a location that is well-drained, receives sunlight (but not excessive direct sunlight), and is easily accessible.
- Prepare the Ground: Elevate the woodpile off the ground using pallets, scrap lumber, or gravel to prevent moisture from wicking up into the wood.
- Stack the Wood:
- Traditional Rows: Stack the wood in neat rows, leaving small gaps between the pieces for airflow.
- Circular Stacking (Holz Hausen): A more decorative and functional method where wood is stacked in a circular pattern with a slight inward slope for stability. This design promotes excellent airflow and sheds water effectively.
- Crib Stacking: Alternating layers of wood at right angles to create a stable and well-ventilated structure.
- Cover the Top: Cover the top of the woodpile with a tarp, roofing material, or even a layer of scrap wood to protect it from rain and snow. Leave the sides open for airflow.
- Maintain the Woodpile: Regularly inspect the woodpile for signs of rot, pests, or settling. Re-stack as needed to maintain stability and airflow.
Tool Specifications:
- Pallets or Scrap Lumber: For elevating the woodpile.
- Tarp or Roofing Material: For covering the top of the woodpile.
- Measuring Tape: To ensure uniform stacking and space utilization.
Safety Considerations:
- Stack the woodpile on stable ground to prevent it from collapsing.
- Avoid stacking wood too high, as this can make it unstable and difficult to access.
- Wear gloves when handling wood to protect your hands from splinters.
Original Insight: I’ve experimented with different stacking methods and found that the Holz Hausen, while more labor-intensive to build, provides superior drying and weather protection compared to traditional row stacking. It also looks quite impressive!
Case Study: I once helped a neighbor who had a large pile of firewood that was starting to rot due to poor stacking and storage. We re-stacked the wood using a crib stacking method, elevated it off the ground with pallets, and covered the top with a tarp. Within a few months, the wood was dry and ready to burn.
Strategic Advantages:
- Reduced Rot: Proper stacking and storage significantly reduce the risk of wood rot, preserving the fuel value of your firewood.
- Faster Drying: Maximizing airflow accelerates the seasoning process, allowing you to burn the wood sooner.
- Easy Access: A well-organized woodpile makes it easy to retrieve firewood when you need it.
- Aesthetic Appeal: A neatly stacked woodpile can enhance the appearance of your property.
The Stihl 880 in the Grand Scheme: Is it Worth It?
Now, let’s bring it back to the Stihl 880. After discussing all these wood processing techniques, is it really necessary? The answer, as always, is “it depends.”
- Large-Scale Operations: If you’re felling large trees regularly for lumber or firewood production, the Stihl 880 can be a valuable investment. Its power and efficiency can significantly reduce labor costs and increase productivity.
- Occasional Use: If you only need to process wood occasionally, a smaller, more versatile chainsaw may be a better choice.
- Budget Considerations: The Stihl 880 is an expensive saw. Consider your budget and how often you will use the saw before making a purchase.
Alternative Chainsaws:
- Stihl MS 462 R C-M: A powerful and versatile saw that is suitable for a wide range of tasks.
- Husqvarna 572 XP: Another excellent professional-grade chainsaw with comparable power and performance.
- Stihl MS 271 Farm Boss: A popular and reliable saw for homeowners and occasional users.
Ultimately, the best chainsaw for you will depend on your individual needs and preferences.
Next Steps: Putting Knowledge into Action
Now that you’ve learned about the Stihl 880 and these five pro tips for wood processing, it’s time to put your knowledge into action.
- Assess Your Needs: Determine the types of wood processing tasks you will be performing and the size and type of wood you will be working with.
- Choose the Right Tools: Select the tools that are appropriate for your needs, including a chainsaw, axe, splitting maul, hydraulic log splitter, and safety equipment.
- Practice Safe Techniques: Always prioritize safety when working with wood processing tools. Wear appropriate PPE and follow safe operating procedures.
- Start Small: Begin with smaller projects and gradually work your way up to larger ones.
- Learn from Experience: Pay attention to what works and what doesn’t, and adjust your techniques accordingly.
- Consider Training: Enroll in a chainsaw safety course or wood processing workshop to learn from experienced professionals.
Wood processing can be a rewarding and enjoyable activity, providing you with a valuable source of fuel and a connection to the natural world. By mastering these techniques and using the right tools, you can efficiently and safely process wood for years to come. Remember, the Stihl 880 is a powerful tool, but it’s just one piece of the puzzle. The real key to success is knowledge, skill, and a commitment to safety.