Stihl 661 with 36 Inch Bar: Optimal Bar Size Guide (5 Pro Tips)

Stihl 661 with 36 Inch Bar: Optimal Bar Size Guide (5 Pro Tips)

As someone who’s spent the better part of my life felling trees and processing wood in the dense forests of the Pacific Northwest, I understand the importance of matching the right chainsaw and bar size to the job. The Stihl 661, a powerhouse of a saw, is a common sight in these parts, often paired with a 36-inch bar. But is that the optimal choice? Let’s dive into the specifics and explore how to get the most out of this combination, no matter where you are in the world.

Understanding the Stihl 661 and Bar Length

The Stihl MS 661 C-M is a professional-grade chainsaw designed for heavy-duty felling and bucking operations. Its powerful engine and robust construction make it a favorite among loggers and serious woodcutters. But power alone isn’t enough. Matching the right bar length to the saw’s capabilities and the type of wood you’re working with is crucial for efficiency, safety, and the longevity of your equipment.

• Stihl MS 661 C-M Key Specs:

  • Engine Displacement: 91.1 cc
  • Engine Power: 7.4 hp (5.4 kW)
  • Weight (without bar and chain): 16.3 lbs (7.4 kg)
  • Recommended Bar Length: 20″ to 36″

  • Bar Length Considerations:

  • Tree Diameter: The bar length should be at least slightly longer than the diameter of the trees you’re typically felling.

  • Wood Type: Harder woods require more power to cut, potentially necessitating a shorter bar.
  • Cutting Technique: Different cutting techniques (e.g., bore cutting, plunge cutting) may benefit from different bar lengths.
  • User Skill: Less experienced users may find shorter bars easier to control.
  • Saw Power: A larger saw like the 661 can handle a longer bar, but pushing it beyond its limits can reduce efficiency and increase wear.

Why a 36-Inch Bar on a Stihl 661? The Pros and Cons

The 36-inch bar is a popular choice for the Stihl 661, and for good reason. It offers a good balance of reach and maneuverability for tackling larger trees. However, it’s not always the perfect solution.

Pros:

• Felling Large Diameter Trees: A 36-inch bar allows you to fell trees with diameters up to about 70 inches (accounting for the necessary overlap). This is crucial for tackling mature timber.
• Increased Reach: The extra reach can be beneficial for limbing and bucking large logs, reducing the need to move the log as frequently.
• Efficiency in Consistent Cutting: When consistently felling large trees, the longer bar can increase efficiency by reducing the number of cuts needed.

Cons:

• Increased Weight and Fatigue: A longer bar adds significant weight to the saw, leading to increased fatigue, especially during prolonged use. I’ve felt this myself after a long day in the woods.
• Reduced Maneuverability: The longer bar makes the saw less maneuverable, particularly in tight spaces or when limbing smaller branches.
• Higher Risk of Kickback: Longer bars increase the risk of kickback, a dangerous and potentially life-threatening situation.
• Increased Wear and Tear: Using a longer bar can put more strain on the saw’s engine and components, leading to increased wear and tear and potentially shortening its lifespan. I’ve seen this happen firsthand with colleagues who consistently overwork their saws.

Takeaway: The 36-inch bar on a Stihl 661 is a powerful combination for felling large trees, but it’s essential to be aware of the trade-offs in terms of weight, maneuverability, and safety.

Pro Tip 1: Matching the Bar to the Wood Type

The type of wood you’re cutting significantly impacts the optimal bar length. Harder woods require more power and can bog down the saw if the bar is too long.

• Softwoods (Pine, Fir, Spruce): These woods are relatively easy to cut and can be handled effectively with a 36-inch bar on the 661, even for larger diameters.
• Hardwoods (Oak, Maple, Hickory): These denser woods require more power. While the 661 can handle hardwoods with a 36-inch bar, you might experience slower cutting speeds and increased strain on the saw, especially with larger diameter trees. Consider dropping down to a 32-inch or even 28-inch bar for hardwoods over 30 inches in diameter.
• Extremely Dense Woods (Ironwood, Desert Ironwood): These woods are exceptionally hard and can quickly dull your chain and strain your saw. I would strongly recommend using a shorter bar (20-28 inches) for these types of wood, even with the powerful 661.

Example: I once tried felling a large oak tree (approximately 40 inches in diameter) with a 36-inch bar on my 661. The saw struggled, and the chain dulled quickly. Switching to a 32-inch bar made a noticeable difference in cutting speed and ease.

Actionable Metric: Track your cutting speed (inches per second) for different wood types and bar lengths. This data will help you determine the optimal bar length for your specific needs. For example, if you consistently see a 20% reduction in cutting speed with a 36-inch bar compared to a 32-inch bar when cutting oak, it’s a clear indication that the shorter bar is more efficient.

Takeaway: Consider the type of wood you’re cutting and adjust the bar length accordingly. Don’t be afraid to switch to a shorter bar for harder woods to improve efficiency and reduce strain on your saw.

Pro Tip 2: Mastering Cutting Techniques

Different cutting techniques place different demands on the chainsaw and the bar. Understanding these demands can help you choose the optimal bar length and cutting strategy.

• Standard Felling Cuts: These cuts involve making a notch on one side of the tree and then felling it from the opposite side. A 36-inch bar is well-suited for this technique when felling large trees.
• Bore Cutting: This technique involves plunging the tip of the bar into the wood to create a cut from the inside out. Bore cutting can be useful for avoiding pinch points and controlling the direction of the fall. However, it also puts significant stress on the bar and chain. A shorter bar may be easier to control during bore cutting.
• Plunge Cutting: Similar to bore cutting, plunge cutting involves plunging the tip of the bar into the wood. This technique is often used for cutting out sections of a log or creating notches. Again, a shorter bar may offer better control.
• Limbing: Limbing involves cutting branches off a felled tree. A 36-inch bar can be cumbersome for limbing smaller branches. A shorter bar (20-28 inches) would be more appropriate in this scenario.

Example: I once used a 36-inch bar to bore cut a large redwood tree. The bar pinched several times, and I had difficulty controlling the saw. I realized a shorter bar would have been much easier to manage.

Best Practices for Cutting Techniques:

• Maintain a Sharp Chain: A sharp chain is essential for all cutting techniques, but it’s especially important for bore and plunge cutting, which put more stress on the chain.
• Use Proper Body Positioning: Maintain a stable stance and keep both hands firmly on the saw. Avoid overreaching or cutting in awkward positions.
• Be Aware of Kickback: Kickback is a serious hazard, especially when bore or plunge cutting. Always be aware of the tip of the bar and avoid contact with unseen objects. Use a chain with kickback-reducing features.
• Use a Felling Wedge: When felling large trees, use a felling wedge to help control the direction of the fall and prevent the bar from pinching.

Takeaway: Choose the appropriate cutting technique for the task at hand and adjust the bar length accordingly. Master the fundamentals of each technique to maximize efficiency and safety.

Pro Tip 3: Chain Selection and Maintenance

The type of chain you use and how well you maintain it significantly impact the performance of your Stihl 661 with a 36-inch bar.

• Chain Types:
  • Full Chisel: These chains have aggressive cutters that provide fast cutting speeds in clean wood. However, they dull quickly in dirty or frozen wood.
  • Semi-Chisel: These chains have more rounded cutters that are more durable and resistant to dulling. They are a good choice for cutting dirty or frozen wood.
  • Low-Profile: These chains have smaller cutters and are designed for smaller saws. They are not suitable for the Stihl 661.
• Chain Pitch and Gauge: The chain pitch and gauge must match the sprocket and bar. The Stihl 661 typically uses a .404″ pitch chain with a .063″ gauge.
• Chain Sharpening: A sharp chain is essential for efficient and safe cutting. Sharpen your chain regularly using a file or a chain grinder. I prefer using a file in the field for quick touch-ups.
• Chain Tension: Proper chain tension is crucial for preventing the chain from derailing and reducing wear on the bar and sprocket. Check the chain tension regularly and adjust as needed.
• Chain Lubrication: Keep the chain well-lubricated with bar and chain oil. This will reduce friction and wear on the chain and bar.

Example: I once tried to fell a large pine tree with a dull chain. The saw vibrated excessively, and the cutting speed was significantly reduced. After sharpening the chain, the saw cut through the wood like butter.

Maintenance Schedule:

• Daily:
  • Check chain tension and adjust as needed.
  • Check chain lubrication and refill oil reservoir.
  • Sharpen chain if needed.
  • Clean bar and chain.
• Weekly:
  • Inspect bar for wear and damage.
  • Clean air filter.
  • Inspect spark plug.
• Monthly:
  • Clean carburetor.
  • Inspect fuel filter.
  • Grease bar tip sprocket (if applicable).

Takeaway: Choose the right chain for the job and maintain it properly. A sharp, well-lubricated chain will significantly improve the performance of your Stihl 661 and reduce wear and tear on the saw.

Pro Tip 4: Understanding Bar Maintenance and Care

The bar is a critical component of the chainsaw, and proper maintenance is essential for extending its lifespan and ensuring safe operation.

• Bar Inspection: Regularly inspect the bar for wear, damage, and burrs.
• Bar Dressing: Use a bar dressing tool to remove burrs and level the bar rails. This will help prevent the chain from derailing and reduce wear on the bar.
• Bar Rail Squaring: Ensure the bar rails are square and parallel. Use a bar rail gauge to check the alignment and adjust as needed.
• Bar Groove Cleaning: Clean the bar groove regularly to remove dirt and debris. This will help ensure proper chain lubrication.
• Bar Flipping: Flip the bar regularly to distribute wear evenly.
• Bar Replacement: Replace the bar when it becomes excessively worn or damaged.

Example: I once neglected to dress the bar on my 661, and the chain derailed frequently. After dressing the bar, the chain stayed on track, and the saw cut much more smoothly.

Common Bar Problems and Solutions:

• Worn Bar Rails: Dress the bar rails with a bar dressing tool.
• Burred Bar Rails: Remove burrs with a file or bar dressing tool.
• Pinched Bar: Use a felling wedge to prevent the bar from pinching.
• Bent Bar: Replace the bar.
• Insufficient Lubrication: Check the oiler and ensure the bar groove is clean.

Actionable Metric: Track the number of hours you use your bar and chain oil consumption. A sudden increase in oil consumption may indicate a problem with the bar or chain lubrication system.

Takeaway: Maintain your bar properly to extend its lifespan and ensure safe operation. Regular inspection, dressing, and cleaning are essential.

Pro Tip 5: Safety First! Always Prioritize Safe Handling

Operating a chainsaw is inherently dangerous, and safety should always be your top priority. I can’t stress this enough – complacency is the biggest enemy.

• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE):
  • Helmet: Protects your head from falling branches and kickback.
  • Eye Protection: Protects your eyes from flying debris.
  • Hearing Protection: Protects your ears from the loud noise of the chainsaw.
  • Gloves: Protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
  • Chainsaw Chaps or Pants: Protect your legs from chainsaw cuts.
  • Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and chainsaw cuts.
• Safe Operating Procedures:
  • Read the Owner’s Manual: Familiarize yourself with the chainsaw’s operating instructions and safety precautions.
  • Inspect the Chainsaw: Before each use, inspect the chainsaw for any damage or defects.
  • Start the Chainsaw Safely: Start the chainsaw on a flat, stable surface, away from your body.
  • Maintain a Safe Distance: Keep a safe distance from other people when operating the chainsaw.
  • Be Aware of Your Surroundings: Be aware of your surroundings and watch out for hazards such as falling branches, uneven terrain, and hidden objects.
  • Never Cut Above Your Head: Cutting above your head is extremely dangerous and should be avoided.
  • Avoid Kickback: Be aware of the risk of kickback and take steps to prevent it.
  • Never Use a Chainsaw When Tired or Under the Influence: Operating a chainsaw requires focus and coordination. Never use a chainsaw when you are tired, under the influence of drugs or alcohol, or taking medication that impairs your judgment.
• First Aid Kit: Always have a well-stocked first aid kit readily available.
• Emergency Plan: Have an emergency plan in place in case of an accident.

Example: I once witnessed a logger suffer a serious leg injury when he was struck by kickback. He wasn’t wearing chainsaw chaps. This incident reinforced the importance of wearing proper PPE and following safe operating procedures.

Kickback Prevention Tips:

• Use a Chain with Kickback-Reducing Features: Some chains are designed with features that reduce the risk of kickback.
• Avoid Contact with the Tip of the Bar: Be aware of the tip of the bar and avoid contact with unseen objects.
• Maintain a Sharp Chain: A dull chain is more likely to kick back.
• Use Proper Cutting Techniques: Avoid bore cutting and plunge cutting unless you are experienced and confident in your ability to control the saw.
• Hold the Chainsaw Firmly: Keep both hands firmly on the saw and maintain a stable stance.

Actionable Metric: Conduct a safety audit of your chainsaw operations. Identify potential hazards and implement corrective actions. Review your safety procedures regularly.

Takeaway: Safety is paramount. Always wear proper PPE, follow safe operating procedures, and be aware of the risks involved in operating a chainsaw. Don’t become a statistic.

Conclusion: Finding the Right Balance

Choosing the optimal bar size for your Stihl 661 is a balancing act. While a 36-inch bar offers significant reach and power for felling large trees, it’s not always the best choice for every situation. By considering the type of wood you’re cutting, the cutting techniques you’re using, and the importance of safety, you can make an informed decision that will maximize your efficiency, safety, and the longevity of your equipment. Remember, experience is the best teacher, so don’t be afraid to experiment and learn what works best for you. And always, always prioritize safety. The woods are a dangerous place, and a little caution can go a long way.

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