Stihl 660 Magnum Chainsaw (5 Pro Arborist Tips)

There’s a particular warmth that comes not just from a crackling fire, but from the knowledge that you’ve prepared the wood yourself. It’s a primal satisfaction, a connection to the earth, and a testament to skill and hard work. I’ve spent years in the woods, felling trees, bucking logs, and preparing firewood, and the 660 has been a steadfast companion. It’s a powerhouse, but like any powerful tool, it demands respect and understanding. This guide isn’t just about how to use a Stihl 660; it’s about how to use it effectively, safely, and with the knowledge of a seasoned pro. I’m going to share five pro arborist tips that will help you get the most out of this incredible machine.

Stihl 660 Magnum Chainsaw: 5 Pro Arborist Tips

This guide will cover everything you need to know to use the Stihl 660 Magnum safely and effectively, from understanding its power to mastering essential techniques. We’ll delve into pro arborist tips designed to improve your efficiency, enhance safety, and extend the life of your saw.

Tip 1: Understanding the Power and Limitations of the Stihl 660

The Stihl 660 Magnum is a beast. Let’s be clear about that. Its engine displacement (91.6 cc) and power output (7.1 bhp) make it capable of tackling hardwoods and large diameter trees with relative ease. But raw power isn’t everything. Understanding how that power is delivered and where the limitations lie is crucial.

Key Concepts:

Engine Displacement: This refers to the total volume displaced by the pistons during one complete engine cycle. A larger displacement generally means more power, but also more fuel consumption and weight.
Power Output (BHP): Brake horsepower is a measure of the engine’s power output at the crankshaft. It indicates how much work the engine can perform.
Torque: This is the rotational force the engine produces. High torque is essential for pulling the chain through tough wood.

My Experience: I once tried to fell a massive oak tree with a smaller saw, thinking I could take my time and make it work. I ended up pinching the bar repeatedly, burning through fuel, and wasting an entire day. That’s when I realized the importance of matching the saw to the task. The 660, with its high torque, can maintain chain speed even when cutting through dense wood, reducing the risk of pinching and stalling.

Limitations:

Weight: The 660 is a heavy saw (around 16.3 lbs without the bar and chain). Extended use can lead to fatigue, increasing the risk of accidents. Always take breaks and use proper lifting techniques.
Fuel Consumption: This saw drinks fuel. Be prepared to carry extra fuel, especially on larger jobs.
Vibration: Prolonged exposure to vibration can cause hand-arm vibration syndrome (HAVS). Use anti-vibration gloves and take frequent breaks.

Pro Tip: Don’t just rely on brute force. Sharp chain, proper filing angles, and a well-maintained saw make the 660 even more effective. Dull chains force you to push harder, increasing the risk of kickback and engine strain.

Data & Insights: In my experience, a sharp chain reduces fuel consumption by up to 20% and increases cutting speed by 30%. This not only saves time and money but also reduces operator fatigue.

Actionable Steps:

Familiarize yourself with the saw’s specifications. Know its weight, power output, and fuel consumption.
Practice proper lifting techniques. Use your legs, not your back.
Invest in anti-vibration gloves.
Always carry extra fuel and bar oil.
Maintain a sharp chain.

Tip 2: Mastering Felling Techniques with a Powerful Saw

Felling a tree is a complex process that requires careful planning and execution. The Stihl 660, with its power and bar length options (typically 25-36 inches), makes felling larger trees more manageable, but it also amplifies the consequences of mistakes.

Key Concepts:

Hinge Wood: This is the section of wood left uncut during the felling process. It controls the direction of the fall and prevents the tree from kicking back.
Felling Wedge: Used to help direct the fall of the tree, especially when it’s leaning in the wrong direction.
Back Cut: The final cut made to fell the tree. It should be slightly above the horizontal cut of the notch.
Notch: A wedge-shaped cut made on the side of the tree facing the desired direction of fall.

Step-by-Step Felling Process (Simplified):

Assess the Tree: Check for lean, wind direction, dead branches, and any obstacles in the path of the fall.
Plan Your Escape Route: Two escape routes at a 45-degree angle away from the direction of the fall.
Cut the Notch: The notch should be about 1/5 to 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
Make the Back Cut: Leave sufficient hinge wood.
Use Felling Wedges (if needed): Drive wedges into the back cut to help push the tree over.
Shout a Warning: “Timber!”
Retreat Along Your Escape Route.

My Experience: I once misjudged the lean of a tree and nearly had it fall in the wrong direction. Thankfully, I had placed wedges and was able to correct the fall. That experience taught me the importance of meticulous planning and the value of felling wedges.

Pro Tips:

Use a bore cut (plunge cut) for larger trees: This technique involves plunging the saw into the tree from the side to create the back cut, leaving a thicker hinge. It’s more controlled and reduces the risk of kickback.
Always use felling wedges, even if the tree is leaning in the right direction: They provide extra control and prevent the tree from sitting back on the saw.
Practice your felling techniques on smaller trees before tackling larger ones: This will help you develop your skills and confidence.

Case Study: I recently felled a large maple tree (diameter 30 inches) that was leaning slightly against the desired direction of fall. I used a bore cut to create the back cut, leaving a hinge of about 2 inches thick. I then drove two felling wedges into the back cut, gradually increasing the pressure until the tree began to lean in the desired direction. The tree fell exactly where I wanted it to, with no complications.

Measurements & Specs:

Hinge Wood Thickness: 1-2 inches for trees up to 20 inches in diameter, 2-4 inches for larger trees.
Notch Angle: 45-60 degrees.
Wedge Size: Use wedges that are appropriate for the size of the tree.

Actionable Steps:

Review felling safety guidelines.
Practice notch and back cut techniques on smaller logs.
Learn how to use felling wedges effectively.
Always wear appropriate safety gear (helmet, eye protection, ear protection, chaps, gloves, and boots).
Consider taking a professional felling course.

Tip 3: Optimizing Bucking and Limbing for Efficiency

Bucking (cutting logs into shorter lengths) and limbing (removing branches) are essential parts of the wood processing workflow. The Stihl 660, with its power and bar length, can make these tasks much faster, but it’s important to use proper techniques to avoid injury and damage to the saw.

Key Concepts:

Bucking: Cutting a log into shorter, more manageable lengths.
Limbing: Removing branches from a felled tree.
Kickback: A sudden and dangerous upward or backward movement of the chainsaw.
Pinching: When the saw bar gets stuck in the wood.

Bucking Techniques:

Cutting from the Top (Overbucking): Useful when the log is supported on both ends. Be careful to avoid pinching the bar.
Cutting from the Bottom (Underbucking): Useful when the log is supported in the middle. Avoid cutting into the ground.
Cutting from Both Sides: For large logs, cut partially from the top and then finish from the bottom.

Limbing Techniques:

Stand on the opposite side of the branch you’re cutting: This reduces the risk of being hit by the falling branch.
Use the saw’s bumper spikes to pivot: This provides stability and control.
Be aware of spring poles: These are branches that are under tension and can snap back when cut.

My Experience: I once limbed a tree without properly assessing the tension in the branches. A spring pole snapped back and nearly hit me in the face. That was a close call that taught me to always be aware of my surroundings.

Pro Tips:

Use a log jack to lift logs off the ground: This makes bucking easier and safer.
Sharpen your chain frequently: A sharp chain cuts more efficiently and reduces the risk of kickback.
Use the correct bar length for the job: A longer bar is useful for bucking large logs, but a shorter bar is more maneuverable for limbing.

Case Study: I was recently processing a large pile of logs for firewood. I used a log jack to lift the logs off the ground, which made bucking much easier and reduced strain on my back. I also sharpened my chain after every few logs, which kept the saw cutting efficiently and reduced the risk of pinching. This significantly increased my overall productivity.

Measurements & Specs:

Log Jack Lifting Height: Aim for a log jack that can lift logs at least 12 inches off the ground.
Chain Filing Angle: Refer to your chainsaw’s manual for the correct filing angles.
Bar Length: Choose a bar length that is appropriate for the size of the logs you are bucking.

Actionable Steps:

Practice bucking and limbing techniques on smaller logs.
Learn how to use a log jack safely and effectively.
Develop a system for sharpening your chain regularly.
Always wear appropriate safety gear.
Be aware of your surroundings and potential hazards.

Tip 4: Mastering Chain Sharpening and Saw Maintenance

A chainsaw is only as good as its chain. A dull chain not only makes cutting more difficult but also increases the risk of kickback and engine strain. Proper chain sharpening and saw maintenance are essential for maximizing the performance and lifespan of your Stihl 660.

Key Concepts:

Chain Filing: Sharpening the cutting teeth of the chainsaw chain.
Depth Gauges: The small metal tabs in front of each cutting tooth that control the depth of the cut.
Bar Dressing: Cleaning and maintaining the chainsaw bar.
Air Filter: A component that prevents dirt and debris from entering the engine.
Spark Plug: A component that ignites the fuel-air mixture in the engine.

Chain Sharpening Process:

Secure the saw: Use a vise or a stump to hold the saw firmly.
Use a chain filing guide: This will help you maintain the correct filing angles.
File each tooth consistently: Use smooth, even strokes.
Check the depth gauges: File them down if necessary.
Rotate the chain and repeat: Sharpen all the teeth.

Saw Maintenance:

Clean the air filter regularly: A dirty air filter restricts airflow and reduces engine power.
Check the spark plug: Replace it if it’s fouled or worn.
Grease the bar tip sprocket: This helps to reduce wear and tear.
Clean the saw regularly: Remove sawdust and debris from all parts of the saw.

My Experience: I used to neglect chain sharpening and saw maintenance, thinking it was a waste of time. I quickly learned that a well-maintained saw not only cuts better but also lasts longer. I now sharpen my chain after every few tanks of fuel and perform regular maintenance checks.

Pro Tips:

Use a high-quality chain filing kit: This will make chain sharpening easier and more accurate.
Learn how to read your chain: This will help you identify problems and make adjustments.
Keep your saw clean: This will prevent dirt and debris from damaging the engine.
Store your saw properly: This will protect it from the elements.

Data & Insights: Regular chain sharpening can increase cutting speed by up to 50% and extend the life of the chain by up to 200%. Proper saw maintenance can prevent costly repairs and extend the life of the saw by several years.

Case Study: I recently had a chainsaw that was running poorly. I checked the air filter and found that it was completely clogged with sawdust. I cleaned the air filter and the saw ran like new again. This simple maintenance task saved me from having to take the saw to a repair shop.

Measurements & Specs:

Chain Filing Angles: Refer to your chainsaw’s manual for the correct filing angles.
Depth Gauge Setting: Refer to your chainsaw’s manual for the correct depth gauge setting.
Spark Plug Gap: Refer to your chainsaw’s manual for the correct spark plug gap.

Actionable Steps:

Invest in a high-quality chain filing kit.
Learn how to sharpen your chain properly.
Develop a routine for saw maintenance.
Consult your chainsaw’s manual for specific maintenance instructions.
Consider taking a chainsaw maintenance course.

Tip 5: Prioritizing Safety Above All Else

Chainsaw operation is inherently dangerous. The Stihl 660, with its raw power, demands even greater respect and caution. Prioritizing safety is not just a good idea; it’s essential for preventing serious injuries.

Key Concepts:

Kickback Zone: The upper quadrant of the chainsaw bar, where kickback is most likely to occur.
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Safety gear that protects you from injury.
Situational Awareness: Being aware of your surroundings and potential hazards.

Essential Safety Practices:

Always wear appropriate PPE: This includes a helmet, eye protection, ear protection, chaps, gloves, and boots.
Maintain a safe distance from others: Keep bystanders at least two tree lengths away from the work area.
Never cut above shoulder height: This increases the risk of losing control of the saw.
Avoid cutting in the kickback zone: Be aware of the position of the bar and avoid contact with objects that could cause kickback.
Never operate a chainsaw when you are tired or under the influence of drugs or alcohol.
Inspect the saw before each use: Check for loose parts, damaged components, and a sharp chain.
Use proper felling and bucking techniques: This will reduce the risk of accidents.
Take frequent breaks: This will help you stay alert and avoid fatigue.

My Experience: I’ve witnessed several chainsaw accidents over the years, some of which could have been prevented with proper safety precautions. These experiences have reinforced the importance of prioritizing safety above all else.

Pro Tips:

Take a chainsaw safety course: This will provide you with the knowledge and skills you need to operate a chainsaw safely.
Develop a safety checklist: Use this checklist to ensure that you are following all safety precautions before each use.
Practice emergency shutdown procedures: This will help you react quickly in the event of an accident.
Never be afraid to stop and reassess: If you feel uncomfortable or unsure about something, stop and take a break.

Case Study: A friend of mine was recently felling a tree when he lost his footing and fell. He was wearing chaps, which protected his legs from serious injury. Without the chaps, he could have been severely injured.

Measurements & Specs:

Chainsaw Chaps Length: Choose chaps that are long enough to cover your legs from your waist to your ankles.
Hearing Protection: Use earplugs or earmuffs with a noise reduction rating (NRR) of at least 25 dB.
Eye Protection: Use safety glasses or a face shield that meets ANSI Z87.1 standards.

Actionable Steps:

Invest in high-quality PPE.
Take a chainsaw safety course.
Develop a safety checklist.
Practice emergency shutdown procedures.
Always prioritize safety above all else.

By understanding the power of the Stihl 660, mastering essential techniques, and prioritizing safety, you can unlock its full potential and tackle even the most demanding wood processing tasks with confidence. Remember, respect the tool, respect the wood, and respect yourself. Happy cutting!

Stihl 660 Magnum Chainsaw (5 Pro Arborist Tips)