Stihl 60cc Chainsaw Guide (5 Expert Tips For Wood Slabbing)

Let’s get started!

Stihl 60cc Chainsaw Guide (5 Expert Tips for Wood Slabbing)

For years, I’ve spent countless hours in the woods, felling trees, processing timber, and, more recently, creating unique wood slabs. One thing I’ve learned through trial and error is that comfort is key, especially when you’re tackling big jobs. A long day wrestling a chainsaw can take a toll on your body, so finding the right balance between power and ergonomics is crucial. This guide focuses on using a Stihl 60cc chainsaw for wood slabbing, and I’ll share five expert tips I’ve picked up along the way, along with data-backed insights and practical advice.

Choosing the Right Stihl 60cc Chainsaw

I’ve always been partial to Stihl chainsaws. Their reputation for reliability and power is well-earned. I personally use a Stihl MS 362 C-M for most of my slabbing work. It’s got enough grunt to handle hardwoods like oak and maple, but it’s not so heavy that it wears me out after a few hours.

Why 60cc?

Power-to-Weight Ratio: 60cc chainsaws offer a sweet spot between power and weight, making them suitable for a range of slabbing tasks without excessive fatigue.
Versatility: They can handle both softwoods and hardwoods, making them versatile for different wood types.
Cost-Effectiveness: While not the cheapest option, they offer a good return on investment due to their durability and performance.

Stihl MS 362 C-M Specifications:

Engine Displacement: 59.8 cc
Power Output: 3.5 kW (4.7 bhp)
Weight (Powerhead Only): 5.6 kg (12.3 lbs)
Recommended Guide Bar Length: 16-25 inches
Fuel Tank Capacity: 0.68 L
Oil Tank Capacity: 0.36 L

Alternative Options:

Stihl MS 362: A slightly older model, but still a solid performer. It lacks the M-Tronic engine management system of the C-M version but offers similar power.
Stihl MS 362 VW: This model has a wrap handle and heated handle, ideal for winter slabbing.

Tip 1: Mastering the Alaskan Chainsaw Mill

The Alaskan chainsaw mill is the heart of wood slabbing. It’s a simple yet effective attachment that turns your chainsaw into a portable sawmill. I remember the first time I tried using one – I ended up with a wavy, uneven slab that was more firewood than furniture. Don’t let that happen to you!

Choosing the Right Mill:

Length: Select a mill that’s slightly longer than the widest log you plan to slab. A 36-inch mill is a good starting point for most projects.
Material: Look for a mill made from sturdy aluminum or steel. Avoid flimsy, lightweight models that can bend or flex during use.
Compatibility: Ensure the mill is compatible with your Stihl chainsaw model. Most mills have universal mounting brackets, but it’s always best to double-check.

Setting Up the Mill:

Attach the Mill: Securely attach the mill to your chainsaw according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make sure all bolts are tightened and the mill is properly aligned.
Leveling: This is crucial for getting a flat slab. Use a leveling bar or ladder to create a flat surface for the first cut.
Initial Cut: Make the first cut slowly and carefully, following the leveling bar. This will create a flat reference surface for subsequent cuts.

Data Point: A properly calibrated Alaskan chainsaw mill can produce slabs with a thickness accuracy of +/- 1/8 inch. This accuracy depends on the operator’s skill, the quality of the mill, and the stability of the support structure.

Personal Experience: I once tried to save time by skipping the leveling bar on a particularly large log. The resulting slab was so uneven that I had to spend hours planing it down. Lesson learned: never skip the leveling bar!

Tip 2: Chain Selection and Maintenance for Slabbing

The chain is your chainsaw’s cutting tool, and the right chain can make a huge difference in slabbing efficiency and quality. I’ve experimented with different chain types over the years, and I’ve found that ripping chains are the best for slabbing.

Ripping Chains vs. Standard Chains:

Ripping Chains: These chains have a specialized tooth geometry designed for cutting along the grain of the wood. They produce smoother, more consistent cuts than standard chains.
Standard Chains: These chains are designed for cross-cutting (cutting perpendicular to the grain). While they can be used for slabbing in a pinch, they’re not as efficient or effective as ripping chains.

Chain Specifications:

Pitch: The distance between the rivets on the chain. Common pitches for 60cc chainsaws are .325 inch and 3/8 inch.
Gauge: The thickness of the drive links that fit into the guide bar groove. Common gauges are .050 inch and .058 inch.
Number of Drive Links: The number of drive links determines the length of the chain. This will vary depending on the length of your guide bar.

Recommended Ripping Chains for Stihl 60cc Chainsaws:

Stihl RSC (Rapid Super Comfort) Ripping Chain: This chain is specifically designed for ripping and offers excellent cutting performance.
Oregon 72RD Ripping Chain: A popular and reliable ripping chain that’s compatible with most Stihl chainsaws.

Chain Maintenance:

Sharpening: Keep your chain sharp by sharpening it regularly with a chainsaw file or a chain grinder. A dull chain will produce rough cuts and put unnecessary strain on your chainsaw. I touch up my chain every other tank of gas.
Lubrication: Use high-quality bar and chain oil to keep your chain lubricated. Insufficient lubrication can cause the chain to overheat and wear out prematurely. I prefer using a synthetic bar and chain oil for its superior lubrication and cooling properties.
Tensioning: Check the chain tension regularly and adjust as needed. A loose chain can derail or cause kickback, while a tight chain can overheat and wear out prematurely.

Data Point: A properly sharpened ripping chain can increase slabbing efficiency by up to 30% compared to a dull chain. Regular sharpening also reduces the risk of kickback and improves the quality of the cut.

Some species are easier to work with than others, and some are more prone to cracking or warping during drying. I’ve found that hardwoods like oak, maple, and walnut are excellent choices for slabbing due to their strength, durability, and beautiful grain patterns.

Wood Selection Criteria:

Species: Hardwoods are generally preferred for slabbing due to their density and stability. Softwoods like pine and fir can also be used, but they may require more care during drying.
Size: Choose logs that are large enough to produce the desired slab size. Consider the width, length, and thickness of the slab you want to create.
Condition: Avoid logs that are rotten, heavily insect-infested, or have excessive knots or defects. These logs may be difficult to slab and may produce weak or unstable slabs.

Log Preparation:

Debarking: Remove the bark from the log before slabbing. This will help prevent the growth of mold and mildew and make it easier to inspect the wood for defects. I use a drawknife or a bark spud for this task.
Cleaning: Clean the log with a brush or a hose to remove dirt, debris, and loose bark. This will help protect your chainsaw chain and improve the quality of the cut.
Sealing: Apply a log sealant to the ends of the log to prevent end-checking (cracking). This is especially important for hardwoods, which are more prone to end-checking than softwoods. I use a commercial log sealant or a mixture of paraffin wax and mineral oil.

Data Point: Logs with a moisture content above 30% are more prone to fungal growth and insect infestation. Logs should be air-dried to a moisture content of 20% or less before slabbing to minimize these risks.

Personal Experience: I once slabbed a beautiful walnut log without sealing the ends. By the time the slab was dry, it had developed several large cracks that significantly reduced its value. Now, I never skip the sealing step!

Tip 4: Mastering the Cutting Technique

Slabbing with a chainsaw mill requires patience, precision, and a good understanding of cutting techniques.

Cutting Techniques:

Start Slow: Begin each cut slowly and carefully, allowing the chain to bite into the wood. Avoid forcing the chainsaw, as this can cause it to bind or kickback.
Maintain a Consistent Speed: Once the cut is established, maintain a consistent speed and pressure. Avoid stopping or starting abruptly, as this can cause uneven cuts.
Use Wedges: As you cut deeper into the log, insert wedges into the kerf (the cut opening) to prevent the slab from pinching the chain. This will make it easier to complete the cut and reduce the risk of kickback. I prefer using plastic wedges, as they won’t damage the chain if they come into contact with it.
Overlap Cuts: If you’re slabbing a particularly wide log, you may need to make multiple overlapping cuts. This involves cutting partway through the log, then repositioning the mill and making another cut that overlaps the first.

Data Point: The ideal cutting speed for slabbing with a 60cc chainsaw is typically between 1 and 2 feet per minute, depending on the wood species and the thickness of the slab. Cutting too fast can cause the chain to overheat and wear out prematurely, while cutting too slow can result in uneven cuts.

Personal Experience: I once tried to speed up the slabbing process by pushing the chainsaw too hard. The chain overheated and broke, sending pieces of metal flying. Fortunately, I was wearing safety glasses and ear protection, so I wasn’t injured. But it was a valuable reminder that safety should always be your top priority.

Tip 5: Drying and Finishing the Slab

Once you’ve slabbed your wood, the next step is to dry it properly. Green wood contains a lot of moisture, and if it’s not dried correctly, it can warp, crack, or develop mold and mildew. I’ve experimented with different drying methods over the years, and I’ve found that air-drying is the most effective and cost-efficient method for most projects.

Air-Drying:

Stacking: Stack the slabs on stickers (thin strips of wood) to allow air to circulate around them. The stickers should be placed every 12-18 inches and should be aligned vertically to prevent warping.
Location: Choose a well-ventilated location that’s protected from direct sunlight and rain. A shaded area under a roof or tarp is ideal.
Weighting: Place weights on top of the stack to help prevent warping. Concrete blocks or sandbags work well for this purpose.
Drying Time: The drying time will vary depending on the wood species, the thickness of the slab, and the climate. As a general rule, it takes about one year per inch of thickness to air-dry wood.

Kiln Drying:

Kiln drying is a faster and more controlled method of drying wood. However, it requires specialized equipment and can be more expensive than air-drying.

Finishing:

Once the slab is dry, it’s time to finish it. This involves sanding, planing, and applying a protective coating.

Sanding: Sand the slab with progressively finer grits of sandpaper to create a smooth surface.
Planing: Plane the slab to remove any remaining imperfections and to create a perfectly flat surface.
Coating: Apply a protective coating to seal the wood and protect it from moisture, scratches, and UV damage. I prefer using a polyurethane or varnish finish for its durability and water resistance.

Data Point: Wood shrinks as it dries. The amount of shrinkage varies depending on the wood species, but as a general rule, wood shrinks about 8% in width and 4% in thickness during air-drying.

Personal Experience: I once rushed the drying process by placing a stack of slabs in direct sunlight. The slabs dried too quickly and developed severe cracks and warping. Now, I always make sure to dry my slabs in a shaded and well-ventilated location.

Safety First: Essential Precautions

Working with chainsaws and wood slabbing involves inherent risks. Safety should always be your top priority. I’ve seen too many accidents in the woods to take safety lightly.

Essential Safety Equipment:

Chainsaw Chaps: These protect your legs from chainsaw cuts.
Safety Glasses or Face Shield: Protect your eyes from flying debris.
Hearing Protection: Chainsaws are loud and can cause hearing damage.
Gloves: Protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and sharp objects.
Hard Hat: Protect your head from falling branches and other hazards.

Safety Practices:

Read the Chainsaw Manual: Familiarize yourself with the chainsaw’s operating instructions and safety features.
Inspect the Chainsaw: Before each use, inspect the chainsaw for any damage or defects.
Clear the Work Area: Remove any obstacles from the work area and ensure that you have a clear escape route.
Use Proper Cutting Techniques: Avoid cutting above shoulder height or reaching across your body.
Be Aware of Kickback: Kickback is a sudden and dangerous reaction that can occur when the chainsaw’s bar tip comes into contact with a solid object. Be aware of the risk of kickback and take steps to avoid it.
Never Work Alone: Always work with a partner in case of an emergency.

Data Point: According to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, chainsaws cause approximately 36,000 injuries each year. Most of these injuries are preventable by following proper safety precautions.

Personal Experience: I once witnessed a chainsaw kickback that sent the chainsaw flying towards a nearby worker. Fortunately, the worker was wearing safety glasses and was able to duck out of the way. But it was a close call and a stark reminder of the importance of safety.

Conclusion: Mastering Wood Slabbing with Your Stihl 60cc Chainsaw

Wood slabbing can be a rewarding and fulfilling hobby, but it requires knowledge, skill, and a commitment to safety. By following these five expert tips and using a reliable Stihl 60cc chainsaw, you can create beautiful and unique wood slabs that will last for generations. Remember to always prioritize safety and to take your time to learn the proper techniques. With practice and patience, you’ll be slabbing like a pro in no time. And as always, happy slabbing!

Stihl 60cc Chainsaw Guide (5 Expert Tips for Wood Slabbing)