Stihl 55cc Chainsaw Guide (7 Expert Firewood Tips)

Here’s a paradox: To truly appreciate the warmth of a crackling fire, you must first understand the cold, hard work that goes into preparing the wood. And at the heart of that work, for many of us, lies the reliable Stihl 55cc chainsaw. For years, it’s been my trusted companion in the woods, helping me transform fallen trees into stacks of cozy firewood. This guide isn’t just about using a chainsaw; it’s about mastering the art of firewood preparation with the Stihl 55cc as your primary tool. I’ll share my tried-and-tested techniques, gleaned from years of experience, to help you work safely, efficiently, and effectively.

Stihl 55cc Chainsaw Guide: 7 Expert Firewood Tips

This guide is designed for anyone, from the complete beginner picking up a chainsaw for the first time to the seasoned woodcutter looking for a few extra tips and tricks. I’ll cover everything from chainsaw safety and maintenance to felling techniques and wood stacking strategies. My goal is to equip you with the knowledge and skills to confidently tackle your firewood preparation projects.

1. Chainsaw Safety: Respect the Power

Before even thinking about starting your Stihl 55cc, safety must be your absolute top priority. Chainsaws are powerful tools, and neglecting safety precautions can have serious consequences. I’ve seen firsthand the devastating results of chainsaw accidents, and I want to ensure you avoid those risks.

• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): This is non-negotiable. Always wear the following:

  • Chainsaw Chaps: These are designed to stop the chain in case of kickback or accidental contact with your leg. Look for chaps that meet ANSI standards. I personally use full-wrap chaps for maximum protection.
  • Safety Glasses or Face Shield: Wood chips and debris can fly at high speeds. Protect your eyes! I prefer a full-face shield because it also protects my face from branches and splinters.
  • Hearing Protection: Chainsaws are loud! Prolonged exposure to high noise levels can cause permanent hearing damage. Use earplugs or earmuffs with a Noise Reduction Rating (NRR) of at least 25 dB.
  • Gloves: Sturdy work gloves provide a better grip and protect your hands from cuts and abrasions. Look for gloves with reinforced palms.
  • Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and potential chainsaw mishaps.
  • Helmet: Especially important when felling trees. A helmet protects your head from falling branches.

• Chainsaw Inspection: Before each use, thoroughly inspect your Stihl 55cc chainsaw:

  • Chain Tension: The chain should be snug but still able to be pulled slightly away from the bar. Too loose, and it can derail. Too tight, and it can cause excessive wear. I check the tension after every tank of gas, as the chain heats up and expands during use.
  • Chain Sharpness: A dull chain is dangerous. It requires more force to cut, increasing the risk of kickback. Learn to sharpen your chain (more on that later) or take it to a professional.
  • Bar Condition: Check the bar for wear and damage. Make sure the groove is clean and free of debris.
  • Throttle and Chain Brake: Ensure the throttle operates smoothly and the chain brake engages properly. The chain brake is your first line of defense against kickback.
  • Fuel and Oil Levels: Never start a chainsaw without sufficient fuel and chain oil. I always use a high-quality two-stroke oil mixed at the manufacturer’s recommended ratio (usually 50:1).

• Work Area Assessment: Before starting, clear the area of obstacles such as branches, rocks, and tripping hazards. Be aware of your surroundings and potential hazards like power lines.
• Safe Starting Procedures: Always start your chainsaw on the ground, with the chain brake engaged. Use your foot to secure the saw. Never drop-start a chainsaw.
• Kickback Awareness: Kickback is the sudden, uncontrolled upward or backward movement of the chainsaw. It’s a leading cause of chainsaw injuries. Be aware of the kickback zone (the upper quadrant of the bar tip) and avoid using it. Maintain a firm grip on the saw with both hands and keep your body to the side of the cutting path.
• Proper Stance: Maintain a balanced stance with your feet shoulder-width apart. Keep your weight evenly distributed.
• Avoid Overreaching: Don’t reach too far with the chainsaw. Move your feet as needed to maintain a safe and comfortable working position.
• Never Cut Above Shoulder Height: This is extremely dangerous and significantly increases the risk of losing control of the saw.
• Take Breaks: Chainsaw work is physically demanding. Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue, which can impair your judgment and increase the risk of accidents.
• First Aid Kit: Keep a well-stocked first aid kit readily available. Know how to treat common chainsaw injuries.
• Emergency Plan: Have a plan in place in case of an accident. Know how to contact emergency services.

Personal Story: I once witnessed a near-miss when a friend was cutting firewood. He was fatigued and overreached, causing the chainsaw to kick back. Fortunately, he was wearing chaps, which stopped the chain just inches from his leg. That incident reinforced the importance of always adhering to safety precautions.

2. Stihl 55cc: Understanding Your Chainsaw

The Stihl 55cc chainsaw is a powerful and versatile tool, perfect for a wide range of firewood preparation tasks. Understanding its features and limitations is crucial for safe and efficient operation.

• Model Variations: The MS 271 Farm Boss is a common model in the 55cc range. However, Stihl offers various models with slight differences in features and specifications. Consult your owner’s manual for detailed information about your specific model.
• Engine Specifications: The 55cc engine provides ample power for felling small to medium-sized trees and bucking logs into firewood. The exact horsepower varies slightly depending on the model, but it typically falls in the range of 3.5 to 4 horsepower.
• Bar Length: The recommended bar length for a Stihl 55cc chainsaw is typically between 16 and 20 inches. Choose a bar length that is appropriate for the size of the trees you will be cutting. A longer bar allows you to cut larger trees, but it also increases the risk of kickback. I find an 18-inch bar to be a good compromise for most firewood applications.
• Chain Type: Stihl offers a variety of chain types for different cutting applications. For general firewood cutting, a standard chisel chain is a good choice. For harder woods, a semi-chisel chain may be more durable.
• Starting System: Stihl chainsaws typically feature an easy-start system that reduces the amount of force required to pull the starter cord.
• Anti-Vibration System: The anti-vibration system reduces fatigue by minimizing the amount of vibration transmitted to your hands and arms.
• Fuel and Oil: Use a high-quality two-stroke oil mixed at the manufacturer’s recommended ratio (usually 50:1) with gasoline that has an octane rating of 89 or higher. I always use premium gasoline to minimize carbon buildup in the engine. Use a dedicated chain oil for the chain lubrication system.
• Maintenance: Regular maintenance is essential for keeping your Stihl 55cc chainsaw running smoothly and reliably. This includes:
  • Cleaning the Air Filter: A dirty air filter can restrict airflow and reduce engine performance. Clean the air filter regularly with compressed air or warm, soapy water.
  • Cleaning the Spark Plug: A fouled spark plug can cause starting problems. Clean the spark plug with a wire brush or replace it as needed.
  • Inspecting and Cleaning the Cooling Fins: The cooling fins help to dissipate heat from the engine. Keep them clean and free of debris.
  • Lubricating the Bar Tip Sprocket: The bar tip sprocket helps to guide the chain around the bar. Lubricate it regularly with grease.
  • Sharpening the Chain: A sharp chain is essential for safe and efficient cutting. Learn to sharpen your chain or take it to a professional.
  • Checking and Adjusting the Carburetor: The carburetor controls the air-fuel mixture. If your chainsaw is running poorly, you may need to adjust the carburetor. This is best left to a qualified technician.

3. Chain Sharpening: The Key to Efficient Cutting

A sharp chainsaw chain is not only more efficient, but it’s also safer. A dull chain requires more force to cut, increasing the risk of kickback and other accidents. Learning to sharpen your own chain is a valuable skill that will save you time and money.

• Tools for Chain Sharpening:

  • Round File: The size of the round file depends on the pitch of your chain. Consult your owner’s manual or the chain packaging to determine the correct file size. I typically use a 5/32-inch file for my Stihl 55cc chainsaw.
  • File Guide: A file guide helps you maintain the correct filing angle and depth. This is especially helpful for beginners.
  • Flat File: A flat file is used to maintain the correct depth gauge setting.
  • Depth Gauge Tool: A depth gauge tool is used to check and adjust the depth gauge setting.
  • Vise: A vise is used to hold the chainsaw bar securely while you are sharpening the chain. I use a small, portable vise that I can easily take with me to the woods.

• Sharpening Procedure:

  1. Secure the Chainsaw: Place the chainsaw bar in the vise and tighten it securely.
  2. Identify the Cutting Teeth: The cutting teeth are the teeth that do the actual cutting. They have a curved shape and a sharp edge.
  3. Determine the Filing Angle: The filing angle is the angle at which you hold the round file against the cutting tooth. This angle is typically marked on the file guide.
  4. File the Cutting Teeth: Hold the round file at the correct angle and depth, and file the cutting tooth with smooth, even strokes. File each tooth the same number of strokes to maintain a consistent cutting edge.
  5. Check the Depth Gauge Setting: The depth gauge is the small projection in front of each cutting tooth. It controls the amount of wood that the cutting tooth can remove. Use a depth gauge tool to check the depth gauge setting. If the depth gauge is too high, it will prevent the cutting tooth from cutting effectively. If the depth gauge is too low, it will cause the chain to grab and chatter.
  6. File the Depth Gauges: If the depth gauges are too high, use a flat file to file them down to the correct height.
  7. Repeat for All Teeth: Repeat the sharpening procedure for all of the cutting teeth on the chain.
  8. Check Your Work: After sharpening the chain, check your work by running the chainsaw through a piece of wood. If the chain is sharp, it will cut smoothly and efficiently.

• Tips for Chain Sharpening:

  • Use a Sharp File: A dull file will make it difficult to sharpen the chain and can damage the cutting teeth.
  • Maintain the Correct Angle: Maintaining the correct filing angle is essential for creating a sharp and durable cutting edge.
  • File Each Tooth the Same Number of Strokes: This will ensure that all of the teeth are the same length and shape.
  • Check the Depth Gauge Setting Regularly: The depth gauge setting affects the cutting performance of the chain.
  • Practice Makes Perfect: The more you practice sharpening your chain, the better you will become at it.

Case Study: I once had a large oak tree to fell and buck into firewood. The tree was particularly hard, and my chainsaw chain quickly became dull. I took the time to sharpen the chain properly, and the difference was remarkable. The chainsaw cut through the oak like butter, and I was able to complete the job much faster and with less effort. This experience reinforced the importance of maintaining a sharp chainsaw chain.

4. Felling Techniques: Bringing Trees Down Safely

Felling trees is a dangerous task that should only be performed by experienced individuals who have received proper training. If you are not comfortable felling trees, it is best to hire a professional. However, if you have the necessary skills and experience, here are some tips for felling trees safely:

• Tree Assessment: Before felling a tree, carefully assess its size, lean, and condition. Look for any signs of decay or weakness. Also, consider the surrounding terrain and potential hazards, such as power lines, buildings, and roads.
• Felling Plan: Develop a felling plan that takes into account the tree’s characteristics and the surrounding environment. Determine the desired direction of fall and clear a path for the tree to fall safely.
• Escape Routes: Plan two escape routes that are at a 45-degree angle to the direction of fall. Clear these routes of obstacles.
• Undercut: The undercut is a notch cut into the tree on the side where you want it to fall. It should be about one-third of the tree’s diameter. The undercut helps to guide the tree’s fall and prevents it from splitting or barber-chairing (splitting vertically up the trunk). I typically use a 70-degree undercut.
• Back Cut: The back cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the undercut. It should be slightly higher than the undercut. Leave a hinge of wood between the undercut and the back cut. The hinge helps to control the tree’s fall.
• Wedges: Use wedges to help guide the tree’s fall and prevent it from pinching the chainsaw bar. Insert the wedges into the back cut as you are making it.
• Felling Lever: A felling lever can be used to help push the tree over in the desired direction.
• Watch for Hazards: As the tree falls, watch for falling branches and other hazards.
• Move Away Quickly: Once the tree starts to fall, move away quickly along your escape route.

Important Considerations:

• Lean: Always fell the tree in the direction of its natural lean, if possible.
• Wind: Be aware of the wind direction and strength. Strong winds can make felling trees more dangerous.
• Hangers: Be aware of “hangers,” trees that are leaning against other trees. These can be extremely dangerous and should be handled with extreme caution.
• Communication: If you are working with others, establish clear communication signals.

5. Bucking and Limbing: Processing the Fallen Tree

Once the tree is on the ground, the next step is to buck it into manageable lengths for firewood and limb it.

• Limbing: Limbing involves removing the branches from the fallen tree. Use your chainsaw to cut the branches close to the trunk. Be careful to avoid kickback, especially when cutting branches under tension. I prefer to start with the smaller branches and work my way up to the larger ones.
• Bucking: Bucking is the process of cutting the trunk into shorter lengths. The ideal length for firewood depends on the size of your fireplace or wood stove. I typically cut my firewood into 16-inch lengths.
• Safe Bucking Techniques:
  • Support the Log: When bucking a log, make sure it is properly supported to prevent it from pinching the chainsaw bar. Use other logs or branches to prop up the log.
  • Cutting from Above: When possible, cut from above the log. This reduces the risk of kickback.
  • Cutting from Below: If you need to cut from below the log, be extra careful to avoid kickback. Use a bore cut to relieve tension in the wood.
  • Bore Cut: A bore cut involves plunging the tip of the chainsaw bar into the wood to create a small hole. This can be used to relieve tension in the wood and prevent pinching. However, bore cuts can be dangerous if not performed properly.
• Log Splitter Considerations: If you plan to use a log splitter, consider the maximum log diameter and length that your splitter can handle when bucking the logs.

Personal Experience: I learned the hard way about the importance of supporting logs properly when bucking. I was cutting a large oak log when it shifted unexpectedly, pinching the chainsaw bar. I had to use a sledgehammer and wedges to free the saw. Since then, I always take the time to ensure that logs are properly supported before bucking.

6. Splitting Firewood: From Logs to Stackable Pieces

Splitting firewood can be a physically demanding task, but it’s essential for preparing wood that will burn efficiently.

• Tools for Splitting Firewood:

  • Axe: A splitting axe is a traditional tool for splitting firewood. Choose an axe with a heavy head and a long handle. I prefer an axe with a fiberglass handle, as it is more durable than a wooden handle.
  • Maul: A maul is a heavier version of an axe, designed for splitting larger logs.
  • Splitting Wedge: A splitting wedge is a metal wedge that is driven into the log with a sledgehammer. This is useful for splitting particularly tough logs.
  • Sledgehammer: A sledgehammer is used to drive the splitting wedge into the log.
  • Hydraulic Log Splitter: A hydraulic log splitter is a machine that uses hydraulic power to split logs. This is a much faster and easier way to split firewood than using an axe or maul. I use a 25-ton hydraulic splitter, which can handle logs up to 24 inches in diameter.

• Splitting Techniques:

  • Choose the Right Tool: Select the appropriate tool for the size and type of wood you are splitting. For smaller logs, an axe may be sufficient. For larger or tougher logs, a maul or splitting wedge may be necessary.
  • Position the Log: Place the log on a solid surface, such as a chopping block or a large log.
  • Aim for Cracks: Look for existing cracks or splits in the log and aim for those areas.
  • Use Proper Form: When using an axe or maul, stand with your feet shoulder-width apart and your knees slightly bent. Swing the axe or maul with a smooth, controlled motion.
  • Wear Safety Glasses: Always wear safety glasses when splitting firewood to protect your eyes from flying chips.

• Hydraulic Log Splitter Operation:

  1. Position the Log: Place the log on the log splitter bed, making sure it is securely supported.
  2. Engage the Ram: Engage the hydraulic ram to push the log against the splitting wedge.
  3. Split the Log: Continue to engage the ram until the log splits.
  4. Repeat: Repeat the process until the log is split into the desired size pieces.

Strategic Advantage: Investing in a hydraulic log splitter significantly increases efficiency, especially when dealing with large quantities of firewood or particularly tough wood. While the initial cost is higher, the time and effort saved are well worth it in the long run.

7. Drying and Stacking Firewood: Seasoning for Optimal Burning

Proper drying and stacking are crucial for seasoning firewood, which is essential for efficient and clean burning. Green wood contains a high amount of moisture, which makes it difficult to ignite and causes it to produce a lot of smoke. Seasoned wood, on the other hand, has a lower moisture content and burns hotter and cleaner.

• Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood:

  • Green Wood: Wood that has been freshly cut. It has a high moisture content (typically 50% or higher) and is difficult to ignite. It produces a lot of smoke and creosote.
  • Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been allowed to dry for several months or years. It has a lower moisture content (typically 20% or lower) and is easy to ignite. It burns hotter and cleaner.

• Drying Time: The amount of time it takes for firewood to season depends on the type of wood, the climate, and the stacking method. Generally, hardwoods like oak and maple require at least 6-12 months of drying time. Softwoods like pine and fir require less time, typically 3-6 months.

• Moisture Content Measurement: A moisture meter is a tool used to measure the moisture content of wood. The ideal moisture content for firewood is below 20%.
• Stacking Methods:
  • Traditional Stack: The traditional method involves stacking the firewood in rows, with the pieces of wood leaning slightly inward. This allows for good air circulation.
  • Holz Hausen: A Holz Hausen is a circular stack of firewood that is designed to promote drying and prevent rot.
  • Pallet Stacking: Stacking firewood on pallets allows for good air circulation from below.
• Stacking Tips:
  • Elevate the Wood: Stack the firewood on pallets or other supports to keep it off the ground. This will prevent moisture from wicking up into the wood.
  • Allow for Air Circulation: Leave space between the rows of firewood to allow for good air circulation.
  • Cover the Top: Cover the top of the firewood stack with a tarp or other waterproof material to protect it from rain and snow. Leave the sides open to allow for air circulation.
  • Choose a Sunny Location: Stack the firewood in a sunny location to promote drying.
  • Avoid Damp Areas: Avoid stacking firewood in damp or shady areas.

Original Insight: I’ve found that splitting firewood before stacking it significantly reduces drying time. The increased surface area allows for faster evaporation of moisture. Also, consider the prevailing wind direction when choosing a location for your firewood stack. Orienting the stack perpendicular to the wind will maximize air circulation.

Case Study: A friend of mine had a large stack of oak firewood that he had stacked improperly. He had stacked it directly on the ground in a damp, shady area. After two years, the wood was still green and unusable. I advised him to restack the wood on pallets in a sunny location and to cover the top with a tarp. After another six months, the wood was finally seasoned and ready to burn. This experience demonstrated the importance of proper drying and stacking techniques.

Next Steps:

Now that you’ve learned the essential steps of firewood preparation, it’s time to put your knowledge into practice. Start by gathering the necessary safety equipment and tools. Practice your chainsaw skills in a safe and controlled environment. Begin with small projects and gradually work your way up to larger ones. Remember to always prioritize safety and to take your time. With practice and patience, you’ll be able to confidently and efficiently prepare your own firewood, ensuring a warm and cozy winter for years to come. Good luck, and stay safe!

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