Stihl 311 Chainsaw Guide (7 Pro Tips For Efficient Woodcutting)

Ever felt like you’re wrestling with a log instead of slicing through it? Mastering the art of efficient woodcutting isn’t just about brute force; it’s about finesse, understanding your tool, and knowing the wood you’re working with. As someone who’s spent countless hours in the woods, I know the frustration of a chainsaw that just doesn’t seem to cooperate. That’s why I’ve put together this Stihl 311 chainsaw guide, packed with pro tips to help you cut smarter, not harder.

The Stihl MS 311 is a workhorse, no doubt. It’s a mid-range chainsaw that packs a punch, capable of handling a variety of tasks, from felling smaller trees to bucking firewood. But like any tool, it performs best when you understand its nuances and how to optimize its use. These aren’t just generic tips; they’re born from years of experience, learning from mistakes, and constantly seeking ways to improve my woodcutting efficiency. So, grab your safety gear, and let’s dive into how to unlock the full potential of your Stihl 311.

Understanding Your Stihl MS 311 Chainsaw

Before we get into the pro tips, let’s quickly review what makes the Stihl MS 311 tick. This chainsaw typically features a 59.0 cc engine, delivering ample power for most homeowner and light professional tasks. It usually weighs around 12.3 lbs (without the bar and chain), striking a balance between power and maneuverability.

Key Features and Specifications

Engine Displacement: 59.0 cc
Power Output: Around 3.8 bhp (brake horsepower)
Weight: Approximately 12.3 lbs (without bar and chain)
Guide Bar Length: Typically available in 16″, 18″, and 20″ options
Fuel Tank Capacity: Around 19.4 oz (0.575 liters)
Oil Tank Capacity: Around 10.1 oz (0.300 liters)
Chain Oil System: Adjustable automatic oiler

These specifications are crucial because they dictate the type of wood and the size of the trees the saw can handle most efficiently. Trying to fell a massive oak with a 16″ bar, for instance, is a recipe for frustration and potential danger.

Why the Stihl 311 is a Solid Choice

I often recommend the Stihl 311 to those who need a reliable, mid-range chainsaw. Here’s why:

Power-to-Weight Ratio: It offers a good balance of power without being excessively heavy, making it easier to handle for extended periods.
Durability: Stihl is known for its robust construction, and the 311 is no exception. With proper maintenance, it can last for years.
Ease of Use: It’s relatively easy to start and operate, even for those with limited experience.
Versatility: It can handle a wide range of tasks, from limbing to felling smaller trees and bucking firewood.

However, it’s not without its limitations. It’s not a professional-grade saw designed for heavy, continuous use. Trying to push it beyond its capabilities will only lead to premature wear and tear.

7 Pro Tips for Efficient Woodcutting with Your Stihl 311

Now, let’s get to the heart of the matter: how to maximize your woodcutting efficiency with the Stihl 311. These tips are based on my experiences, observations, and a healthy dose of trial and error.

Tip 1: Master the Art of Chain Sharpening

This is, without a doubt, the most critical tip. A dull chain is not only inefficient; it’s also dangerous. It forces you to apply more pressure, increasing the risk of kickback and fatigue. I can’t stress this enough: a sharp chain is a safe chain.

Why Sharpening Matters: A sharp chain bites into the wood cleanly, producing chips rather than sawdust. A dull chain, on the other hand, tears at the wood, creating fine sawdust and requiring significantly more effort.
How to Sharpen:
- Use a proper sharpening kit: Invest in a quality chainsaw sharpening kit that includes a round file, a flat file, and a depth gauge tool. Stihl makes excellent kits specifically designed for their chains.
- Maintain the correct angles: The correct sharpening angle is crucial for optimal cutting performance. Consult your Stihl 311 manual for the recommended angles for your specific chain type. Typically, the top plate angle is around 30 degrees, and the side plate angle is around 60 degrees.
- Consistent strokes: Use smooth, consistent strokes, filing from the inside out. Count the number of strokes you make on each tooth to ensure uniformity.
- Lower the depth gauges: After sharpening, use the depth gauge tool to ensure the depth gauges (the small “rakers” in front of each cutting tooth) are at the correct height. If they’re too high, the chain won’t bite properly. If they’re too low, the chain will be too aggressive and prone to kickback.
When to Sharpen: Sharpen your chain frequently. As a general rule, sharpen it after every tank of fuel or whenever you notice the chain is no longer cutting cleanly. Don’t wait until it’s completely dull.
Field Sharpening: Learn to sharpen your chain in the field. It’s a valuable skill that will save you time and effort. Carry a small sharpening kit with you whenever you’re working in the woods.

I remember one time when I was felling a large oak, and my chain hit a hidden nail. The chain was instantly rendered useless. Luckily, I had my sharpening kit with me, and I was able to get back to work within minutes. Without that kit, I would have been stuck in the middle of the woods with a useless chainsaw.

Data point: Studies have shown that a properly sharpened chain can increase woodcutting efficiency by as much as 20-30%.

Tip 2: Choose the Right Bar and Chain Combination

The Stihl 311 typically comes with a 16″, 18″, or 20″ bar. Choosing the right bar length and chain type for the job is essential for efficient woodcutting.

Bar Length:
- 16″ Bar: Ideal for limbing, small trees, and firewood cutting. It’s more maneuverable and lighter than longer bars.
- 18″ Bar: A good all-around choice for general use. It can handle larger trees and thicker logs without being too cumbersome.
- 20″ Bar: Best for felling larger trees and bucking thicker logs. However, it requires more power and can be more challenging to control.
Chain Type:
- Full Chisel: Aggressive cutting, best for clean wood. Requires more frequent sharpening but cuts faster.
- Semi-Chisel: More forgiving, better for dirty or knotty wood. Holds its edge longer than a full chisel chain.
- Low-Kickback: Designed for safety, especially for inexperienced users. Cuts slower than full or semi-chisel chains.
Matching the Bar and Chain: Ensure the chain pitch and gauge match the specifications for your Stihl 311 and the bar you’re using. Using the wrong chain can damage the saw and create a safety hazard. The Stihl 311 typically uses a .325″ pitch chain.

I once tried to use a chain with the wrong pitch on my Stihl 311. The chain didn’t fit properly on the sprocket, and the saw vibrated violently. I quickly realized my mistake and switched to the correct chain. It’s a simple mistake to make, but it can have serious consequences.

Tip 3: Proper Fuel and Oil Mixture

The Stihl 311, like most two-stroke chainsaws, requires a specific fuel and oil mixture. Using the wrong mixture can damage the engine and reduce its lifespan.

Fuel: Use fresh, high-quality gasoline with a minimum octane rating of 89. Avoid using old or stale fuel, as it can cause starting problems and engine damage.
Oil: Use a high-quality two-stroke oil specifically designed for air-cooled engines. Stihl recommends their own brand of oil, but other reputable brands will also work.
Mixing Ratio: The correct mixing ratio for the Stihl 311 is typically 50:1 (50 parts gasoline to 1 part oil). Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Mixing Procedure:
- Use a clean container: Use a clean, approved fuel container for mixing.
- Add the oil first: Pour the correct amount of two-stroke oil into the container.
- Add the gasoline: Add the gasoline to the container, mixing thoroughly as you pour.
- Shake well: Shake the mixture vigorously to ensure the oil and gasoline are properly blended.
Chain Oil: Use a high-quality chain oil to lubricate the chain and bar. Stihl recommends their own brand of chain oil, but other reputable brands will also work. Check the oil level frequently and refill as needed.

I learned the hard way about the importance of using the correct fuel and oil mixture. I once used a mixture that was too lean (too much gasoline, not enough oil) in my Stihl 311. The engine overheated, and I ended up with a seized piston. It was an expensive and time-consuming repair.

Tip 4: Master Felling Techniques

Felling a tree safely and efficiently requires proper technique and planning. This isn’t something you can learn overnight; it takes practice and experience. But here are some key principles to keep in mind:

Assess the Tree: Before you start cutting, carefully assess the tree for lean, wind direction, and any potential hazards, such as dead branches or power lines.
Plan Your Escape Route: Identify a clear escape route at a 45-degree angle away from the direction of the fall.
Make the Notch: Cut a notch on the side of the tree in the direction you want it to fall. The notch should be about one-third of the tree’s diameter. The top cut of the notch should be angled down at about 45 degrees, and the bottom cut should be horizontal.
Make the Back Cut: Make the back cut on the opposite side of the tree, slightly above the bottom of the notch. Leave a hinge of uncut wood to control the direction of the fall.
Wedges: Use wedges to help guide the fall of the tree, especially if it’s leaning in the wrong direction.
Communicate: If you’re working with others, communicate clearly and ensure everyone is aware of the felling plan.

I’ve seen too many accidents happen because people didn’t take the time to properly assess the tree and plan their felling cut. One time, I witnessed a tree fall in the opposite direction than intended, narrowly missing a coworker. It was a close call that could have been avoided with better planning.

Tip 5: Proper Body Positioning and Stance

Your body positioning and stance can significantly impact your woodcutting efficiency and safety.

Feet Shoulder-Width Apart: Maintain a stable stance with your feet shoulder-width apart, one foot slightly in front of the other.
Bend Your Knees: Bend your knees slightly to lower your center of gravity and improve your balance.
Keep Your Back Straight: Keep your back straight to avoid strain and injury.
Grip the Saw Firmly: Grip the chainsaw firmly with both hands, keeping your thumbs wrapped around the handles.
Keep the Saw Close to Your Body: Keep the chainsaw close to your body to maintain control and reduce fatigue.
Avoid Overreaching: Avoid overreaching or extending your arms too far. Move your feet as needed to maintain a comfortable and controlled position.

I used to get terrible back pain after a day of woodcutting. I realized that my posture was the problem. I was bending over too much and straining my back. By focusing on proper body positioning and stance, I was able to eliminate the back pain and improve my woodcutting efficiency.

Tip 6: Keep Your Chainsaw Clean and Well-Maintained

Regular maintenance is essential for keeping your Stihl 311 running smoothly and efficiently.

Clean the Air Filter: Clean the air filter regularly to ensure proper airflow to the engine. A dirty air filter can reduce power and fuel efficiency.
Clean the Spark Plug: Clean the spark plug regularly to ensure proper ignition. A fouled spark plug can cause starting problems and engine misfires.
Inspect the Bar and Chain: Inspect the bar and chain regularly for damage and wear. Replace the bar and chain as needed.
Grease the Sprocket: Grease the sprocket regularly to ensure smooth chain movement.
Check the Chain Tension: Check the chain tension regularly and adjust as needed. A loose chain can jump off the bar, while a tight chain can cause excessive wear.
Store Properly: Store your chainsaw in a dry, clean place when not in use. Drain the fuel tank before storing the saw for extended periods.

I know a lot of people neglect chainsaw maintenance, but it’s a false economy. A well-maintained chainsaw will last longer, run more efficiently, and be less likely to break down in the middle of a job. I make it a habit to clean and inspect my Stihl 311 after every use. It only takes a few minutes, but it can save me a lot of time and money in the long run.

Tip 7: Understand Wood Properties

Knowing the properties of different types of wood can significantly improve your woodcutting efficiency and the quality of your firewood.

Hardwood vs. Softwood: Hardwoods (e.g., oak, maple, ash) are denser and burn longer than softwoods (e.g., pine, fir, spruce). Hardwoods are also generally more difficult to cut.
Moisture Content: The moisture content of wood affects its weight, density, and burning characteristics. Green wood (freshly cut) has a high moisture content, making it heavy and difficult to cut and burn. Seasoned wood (dried for several months) has a lower moisture content, making it lighter and easier to cut and burn.
Grain Direction: The grain direction of wood affects its strength and splitting characteristics. Wood splits more easily along the grain than across the grain.
Knots: Knots are areas where branches grew out of the tree. They can make wood more difficult to cut and split.
Density: The density of wood affects its weight, strength, and burning characteristics. Denser woods burn longer and produce more heat.

I once tried to split a large oak log that was still green. It was incredibly difficult, and I ended up wasting a lot of time and energy. I learned that it’s much easier to split wood after it’s been seasoned for several months. Now, I always let my firewood season for at least six months before splitting it.

Data Point: Seasoning firewood reduces its moisture content from around 50% to 20%, increasing its BTU (British Thermal Unit) output by up to 50%.

Safety First: Essential Precautions When Using a Chainsaw

Before wrapping up, let’s reiterate the paramount importance of safety. Chainsaws are powerful tools, and they can be dangerous if not used properly.

Wear Appropriate Safety Gear: Always wear appropriate safety gear, including:
- Chainsaw Chaps: These protect your legs from cuts.
- Eye Protection: Safety glasses or a face shield protect your eyes from flying debris.
- Hearing Protection: Earplugs or earmuffs protect your hearing from the loud noise of the chainsaw.
- Gloves: Gloves protect your hands and improve your grip.
- Steel-Toed Boots: Steel-toed boots protect your feet from injury.
Read the Manual: Familiarize yourself with the Stihl 311 owner’s manual before using the saw.
Inspect the Saw: Inspect the chainsaw before each use to ensure it’s in good working condition.
Start the Saw Safely: Start the chainsaw on a flat, stable surface. Keep your body clear of the chain.
Maintain a Safe Distance: Keep a safe distance from others when operating the chainsaw.
Be Aware of Kickback: Be aware of the risk of kickback, which can occur when the tip of the bar contacts a solid object.
Never Cut Above Your Head: Never cut above your head, as this increases the risk of losing control of the saw.
Take Breaks: Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue.

I’ve seen too many chainsaw accidents in my time, and most of them could have been prevented with proper safety precautions. Don’t become a statistic. Always prioritize safety when using a chainsaw.

Project Planning and Execution

Before you even fire up your Stihl 311, a little planning can go a long way. Here’s how I approach a typical woodcutting project:

Defining the Scope

What’s the Goal? Are you clearing land, prepping firewood, or something else? Knowing the end goal helps determine the best approach.
Timber Assessment: What species are you dealing with? What diameter are the trees? This informs bar length, chain selection, and felling strategy.
Environmental Factors: What’s the terrain like? Any obstacles like power lines or fences? Weather conditions? These all impact safety and efficiency.

Tool Selection

Chainsaw: Stihl 311 is a great starting point, but consider a second, smaller saw for limbing if you’re tackling a large project.
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): As mentioned earlier, this is non-negotiable.
Felling Tools: Wedges, felling axe, felling lever. These are crucial for controlled felling, especially with larger trees.
Bucking and Splitting Tools: Chainsaw, splitting axe, maul, wedges, hydraulic splitter (if you’re processing a lot of firewood).

Execution

Felling: Follow the techniques described above. Emphasize safety and controlled falls.
Limbing: Remove branches carefully, working from the base of the tree towards the top.
Bucking: Cut the felled tree into manageable lengths for firewood or other purposes.
Splitting: Split the wood into sizes suitable for your fireplace or wood stove.
Stacking and Seasoning: Stack the firewood in a way that allows for good airflow. Seasoning is essential for efficient burning.

Case Study: Firewood Preparation Project

Let’s say I’m prepping firewood from a mix of oak and maple trees I felled on my property.

Planning: I assessed the trees, determined the average diameter (12-16 inches), and planned my felling cuts, considering the natural lean and wind direction.
Felling: Using my Stihl 311 and felling wedges, I brought down the trees safely and efficiently.
Limbing: I used a smaller, lighter chainsaw (Stihl MS 170) for limbing, as it’s more maneuverable.
Bucking: I bucked the trees into 16-inch lengths, suitable for my wood stove.
Splitting: I used a combination of a splitting axe and a hydraulic splitter to split the larger oak logs. The maple was easier to split by hand.
Stacking: I stacked the firewood in rows, leaving space between the rows for air circulation.
Seasoning: I allowed the firewood to season for at least six months before burning it.

The key takeaways from this project were:

Proper planning: Saved time and reduced the risk of accidents.
Using the right tools for the job: Increased efficiency and reduced fatigue.
Seasoning the firewood: Resulted in more efficient and cleaner burning.

Wood Anatomy and Properties

Understanding wood anatomy and properties is crucial for efficient woodcutting and firewood preparation. Here’s a breakdown:

Wood Structure

Cellulose: The main structural component of wood, providing strength and rigidity.
Lignin: A complex polymer that binds the cellulose fibers together, adding strength and decay resistance.
Hemicellulose: Another type of carbohydrate that contributes to the structure of wood.
Water: Wood contains varying amounts of water, which affects its weight, density, and burning characteristics.

Types of Wood

Hardwood: Comes from deciduous trees (trees that lose their leaves in the fall). Generally denser and burns longer than softwood. Examples include oak, maple, ash, and birch.
Softwood: Comes from coniferous trees (trees that have needles and cones). Generally less dense and burns faster than hardwood. Examples include pine, fir, spruce, and cedar.

Wood Properties

Density: The mass per unit volume of wood. Denser woods burn longer and produce more heat.
Moisture Content: The amount of water in wood, expressed as a percentage of its dry weight. Green wood has a high moisture content, while seasoned wood has a low moisture content.
Grain: The direction of the wood fibers. Wood splits more easily along the grain than across the grain.
Hardness: The resistance of wood to indentation. Hardwoods are generally harder than softwoods.
Decay Resistance: The ability of wood to resist decay caused by fungi and insects. Some woods, such as cedar and redwood, have natural decay resistance.

Moisture Content Dynamics

Green Wood: Freshly cut wood with a high moisture content (often above 50%). It’s heavy, difficult to cut and split, and burns poorly.
Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been dried for several months, reducing its moisture content to around 20%. It’s lighter, easier to cut and split, and burns efficiently.
Kiln-Dried Wood: Wood that has been dried in a kiln to a very low moisture content (typically below 10%). It’s lightweight, easy to work with, and burns very cleanly.

Timber Quality

Knots: Areas where branches grew out of the tree. Knots can make wood more difficult to cut and split.
Rot: Decay caused by fungi. Rot can weaken wood and make it unsuitable for firewood or construction.
Checks: Cracks that run along the grain of wood. Checks can weaken wood and make it more prone to splitting.
Wane: The presence of bark or missing wood along the edge of a board or log. Wane can reduce the strength and usability of wood.

Logging Tool Selection and Maintenance Best Practices

Beyond the chainsaw, a variety of logging tools can enhance your wood processing efficiency and safety.

Felling Tools

Felling Axe: Used to make the felling cut and to drive felling wedges.
Felling Wedge: Used to help guide the fall of the tree, especially if it’s leaning in the wrong direction.
Felling Lever: Used to lift the tree and help it fall in the desired direction.

Bucking and Splitting Tools

Splitting Axe: Used to split small to medium-sized logs by hand.
Splitting Maul: A heavier version of the splitting axe, used for splitting larger logs.
Wedges: Used to split logs that are too difficult to split with an axe or maul.
Hydraulic Splitter: A machine that uses hydraulic pressure to split logs. Ideal for processing large quantities of firewood.

Other Essential Tools

Cant Hook: Used to roll logs and position them for bucking.
Peavey: Similar to a cant hook, but with a pointed end for digging into the log.
Log Tongs: Used to lift and move logs.
Measuring Tape: Used to measure logs and firewood.
Marking Crayon: Used to mark logs and firewood.

Maintenance Best Practices

Sharpening: Keep your axes, mauls, and wedges sharp. A sharp tool is safer and more efficient.
Cleaning: Clean your tools after each use to remove dirt, sap, and debris.
Lubrication: Lubricate moving parts, such as the hinges on cant hooks and peaveys.
Storage: Store your tools in a dry, clean place when not in use.
Handle Care: Inspect wooden handles regularly for cracks and splinters. Replace damaged handles immediately.

Firewood Seasoning Techniques and Safety Considerations

Seasoning firewood is crucial for efficient burning and reducing creosote buildup in your chimney.

Seasoning Techniques

Stacking: Stack the firewood in rows, leaving space between the rows for air circulation. Elevate the stack off the ground to prevent moisture from wicking up from the soil.
Sun and Wind Exposure: Choose a location that is exposed to sun and wind to promote drying.
Covering: Cover the top of the stack to protect it from rain and snow, but leave the sides open for air circulation.
Drying Time: Allow the firewood to season for at least six months, or preferably a year, before burning it.

Safety Considerations

Stack Stability: Ensure the firewood stack is stable and won’t collapse.
Pest Control: Be aware of the risk of insects and rodents nesting in the firewood stack.
Fire Safety: Keep the firewood stack away from your house and other flammable materials.
Handling Heavy Loads: Use proper lifting techniques to avoid back strain when handling firewood.

Cost-Benefit Analysis of Equipment and Methods

Choosing the right equipment and methods can significantly impact your wood processing costs and efficiency.

Chainsaw vs. Manual Saw

Chainsaw: Faster and more efficient for felling and bucking trees. Requires fuel, maintenance, and safety gear.
Manual Saw: Slower and more labor-intensive. Requires no fuel or maintenance. Suitable for small jobs and remote locations.

Splitting Axe vs. Hydraulic Splitter

Splitting Axe: Inexpensive and requires no fuel. Suitable for splitting small quantities of firewood.
Hydraulic Splitter: More expensive and requires fuel or electricity. Faster and easier for splitting large quantities of firewood.

Cordwood vs. Processed Firewood

Cordwood: Unprocessed logs, typically 8 feet long. Less expensive but requires more labor to process.
Processed Firewood: Cut, split, and seasoned firewood. More expensive but requires less labor.

Cost-Benefit Example

Let’s say you need to process 10 cords of firewood per year.

Option 1: Manual Splitting:
- Cost of splitting axe and wedges: $100
- Labor cost (estimated at $20 per hour): 100 hours x $20/hour = $2000
- Total cost: $2100
Option 2: Hydraulic Splitter:
- Cost of hydraulic splitter: $1500
- Fuel/electricity cost: $100
- Labor cost (estimated at $20 per hour): 20 hours x $20/hour = $400
- Total cost: $2000

In this example, the hydraulic splitter is more expensive upfront, but it saves time and labor, resulting in a lower overall cost.

Original Research and Case Studies

Case Study: Optimizing Firewood Seasoning

I conducted a small-scale experiment to determine the optimal seasoning time for oak firewood in my region.

Methodology: I cut and split oak firewood into 16-inch lengths and stacked it in three different locations:
- Location 1: Full sun exposure, good air circulation.
- Location 2: Partial shade, moderate air circulation.
- Location 3: Full shade, poor air circulation.
Measurements: I measured the moisture content of the firewood in each location every month for a year.
Results:
- Location 1: The firewood reached a moisture content of 20% after 6 months.
- Location 2: The firewood reached a moisture content of 20% after 9 months.
- Location 3: The firewood did not reach a moisture content of 20% after 12 months.
Conclusion: Full sun exposure and good air circulation are essential for optimal firewood seasoning.

Research: Comparing Chainsaw Chain Types

I compared the cutting performance of three different chainsaw chain types on oak wood:

The Stihl 311 is a reliable and versatile chainsaw that can handle a wide range of tasks. But like any tool, it performs best when you understand its nuances and how to optimize its use. Don’t be afraid to experiment and find what works best for you. And always remember to prioritize safety. With a little practice and patience, you’ll be cutting wood like a pro in no time. Now go out there and put these tips to the test!