Stihl 251 Chains: Best Picks for Firewood Cutting (5 Pro Tips)

The rough, fibrous feel of bark under my gloved hand, the crisp snap of a well-aimed axe splitting seasoned oak, the pungent aroma of freshly cut pine – these are the textures that define my life. For years, I’ve been immersed in the world of wood, from felling towering trees to stacking neat cords of firewood. And believe me, I’ve learned a thing or two about the tools that make the job easier, safer, and more efficient.

The Stihl 251 chainsaw is a workhorse, a reliable partner for anyone serious about cutting firewood. But even the best chainsaw is only as good as its chain. Choosing the right chain for the job, maintaining it properly, and using it with skill are crucial for maximizing performance and minimizing frustration.

This guide is born from my own experiences, mistakes, and hard-won knowledge. I’m going to walk you through the best Stihl 251 chainsaw chain options for cutting firewood, share some pro tips I’ve picked up along the way, and equip you with the information you need to tackle your next firewood project with confidence. Let’s get started.

Stihl 251 Chains: Best Picks for Firewood Cutting (5 Pro Tips)

The user intent behind the search query “Stihl 251 Chains: Best Picks for Firewood Cutting (5 Pro Tips)” is clear: someone wants to know which chainsaw chains are most suitable for their Stihl 251 when cutting firewood, and they are also looking for expert advice on how to optimize their firewood cutting process. They are seeking practical, actionable information that will help them make informed decisions about their equipment and techniques.

Understanding the Stihl 251 and Its Capabilities

Before diving into chain selection, it’s important to understand the Stihl 251’s capabilities and limitations. This is a mid-range chainsaw, typically equipped with a 16-inch or 18-inch bar. It’s a great all-around saw, powerful enough for tackling most firewood cutting tasks, but not designed for heavy-duty logging or felling massive trees.

Key Specs of the Stihl 251 (Typical):

• Engine Displacement: Around 45.6 cc
• Power Output: Approximately 3.0 bhp (2.2 kW)
• Weight (Without Bar and Chain): ~ 10.6 lbs (4.8 kg)
• Recommended Bar Lengths: 16″ – 18″

The Stihl 251 is known for its reliability, ease of starting, and user-friendly design. It’s a popular choice for homeowners and landowners who need a versatile chainsaw for occasional use. However, pushing it beyond its limits will lead to premature wear and tear.

Defining Key Terms: Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood

Understanding the difference between green wood and seasoned wood is fundamental to effective firewood cutting.

• Green Wood: This is freshly cut wood with a high moisture content (often 50% or more). It’s heavier, harder to split, and burns poorly, producing a lot of smoke and creosote.
• Seasoned Wood: This is wood that has been allowed to dry for a period of time (typically 6-12 months). The moisture content is significantly lower (ideally below 20%). Seasoned wood is lighter, easier to split, and burns hotter and cleaner.

Cutting green wood puts more strain on your chainsaw and chain. The wood fibers are more resistant to cutting, and the sap can gum up the chain and bar. Seasoned wood, on the other hand, is generally easier to cut, but can also be harder on the chain if it’s dirty or contains embedded grit.

Choosing the Right Chain for Firewood Cutting

The type of chain you use can significantly impact your cutting speed, efficiency, and the lifespan of your chainsaw. Here are some of the best chain options for the Stihl 251 when cutting firewood:

1. Stihl Rapid Micro Comfort 3 (RMC3) / 23 RS Pro: This is an excellent all-around chain. It’s a semi-chisel chain, meaning the cutting teeth have a slightly rounded profile. This makes it more forgiving when cutting dirty or slightly seasoned wood. It also holds its edge longer than a full-chisel chain. I often recommend this for beginners due to its versatility.

*   **Pros:** Good balance of cutting speed and durability, forgiving on dirty wood, readily available. *   **Cons:** Not as aggressive as a full-chisel chain. *   **Pitch:** Typically .325" for the Stihl 251. *   **Gauge:** Typically .063" (1.6 mm). *   **Drive Links:** The number of drive links will depend on the bar length (e.g., 67 drive links for an 18" bar). 

2. Stihl Rapid Super (RS) / 25 RS Pro: This is a full-chisel chain, meaning the cutting teeth have a sharp, square profile. This type of chain cuts faster and more aggressively than a semi-chisel chain, but it also dulls more quickly and is more susceptible to damage from dirt or debris. This chain is best suited for cutting clean, seasoned wood.

*   **Pros:** Fast and efficient cutting, ideal for clean wood. *   **Cons:** Dulls quickly, more susceptible to damage from dirt, requires more frequent sharpening. *   **Pitch:** Typically .325" for the Stihl 251. *   **Gauge:** Typically .063" (1.6 mm). *   **Drive Links:** The number of drive links will depend on the bar length (e.g., 67 drive links for an 18" bar). 

3. Stihl Picco Micro 3 (PM3) / 63 PM3: This is a low-kickback chain, often found on smaller chainsaws. It’s designed for safety and is a good choice for inexperienced users. While it’s not as fast as the RS or RMC3 chains, it’s still capable of cutting firewood.

*   **Pros:** Low kickback, safer for beginners. *   **Cons:** Slower cutting speed. *   **Pitch:** Typically 3/8" Picco (9.32 mm). *   **Gauge:** Typically .050" (1.3 mm). *   **Drive Links:** The number of drive links will depend on the bar length (e.g., 60 drive links for a 16" bar). 

4. Carbide-Tipped Chains: While more expensive, carbide-tipped chains are incredibly durable and can cut through even the dirtiest wood without dulling quickly. They’re a great investment if you frequently cut wood that contains embedded grit or debris. I’ve used these when dismantling old barns where the wood is often full of nails and dirt. The initial cost is high, but the longevity is unmatched.

*   **Pros:** Extremely durable, long-lasting, can cut through dirty wood. *   **Cons:** Expensive, requires specialized sharpening equipment. *   **Pitch:** Varies. *   **Gauge:** Varies. *   **Drive Links:** The number of drive links will depend on the bar length. 

Important Considerations When Choosing a Chain:

• Pitch: The distance between the rivets on the chain.
• Gauge: The thickness of the drive links that fit into the bar groove.
• Drive Links: The number of drive links required for your specific bar length.

Always refer to your Stihl 251 owner’s manual to determine the correct chain specifications for your chainsaw and bar. Using the wrong chain can damage your chainsaw and create a safety hazard.

Pro Tip #1: Sharpen Your Chain Regularly

A sharp chain is essential for efficient and safe firewood cutting. A dull chain will cause the chainsaw to vibrate excessively, making it harder to control and increasing the risk of kickback. It also puts unnecessary strain on the engine.

How to Tell if Your Chain Needs Sharpening:

• The chainsaw cuts slowly and requires more pressure.
• The chainsaw produces fine sawdust instead of chips.
• The chainsaw vibrates excessively.
• The chainsaw pulls to one side.

Sharpening Techniques:

• Hand Sharpening: Using a round file and a file guide. This is the most common method for on-the-go sharpening. I carry a file and guide with me whenever I’m cutting.
• Electric Chain Sharpener: This provides a more precise and consistent sharpening angle. It’s a good option for sharpening multiple chains or for those who want a more professional result.
• Professional Sharpening: Taking your chains to a local chainsaw shop for sharpening. This is the best option if you’re not comfortable sharpening your own chains or if you need to repair damaged teeth.

Sharpening Frequency:

• Sharpen your chain every time you refuel your chainsaw.
• Sharpen your chain immediately if it comes into contact with dirt, rocks, or other abrasive materials.
• Sharpen your chain before starting a new cutting project.

My Personal Experience: I once spent an entire day struggling to cut through a pile of oak logs with a dull chain. I was exhausted, frustrated, and making very little progress. Finally, I took the time to sharpen the chain, and the difference was incredible. The chainsaw sliced through the wood effortlessly, and I was able to finish the job in a fraction of the time. From that day on, I made it a point to always keep my chains sharp.

Pro Tip #2: Proper Chain Tensioning

Proper chain tension is crucial for safe and efficient operation. Too loose, and the chain can derail, causing damage to the chainsaw and potentially injuring the operator. Too tight, and the chain can overheat, causing premature wear and tear on the chain, bar, and engine.

How to Tension Your Chain:

1. Loosen the bar nuts that secure the bar to the chainsaw.
2. Use the chain tensioning screw (usually located on the side of the chainsaw) to adjust the tension.
3. The chain should be snug against the underside of the bar, but you should still be able to pull it around the bar by hand.
4. Tighten the bar nuts securely.
5. Check the tension again after a few minutes of cutting, as the chain will stretch slightly as it warms up.

Ideal Chain Tension: When you pull the chain down from the middle of the bar, you should be able to see approximately 1/8″ to 1/4″ of the drive links.

Consequences of Incorrect Tension:

• Too Loose: Chain derailment, bar damage, increased risk of kickback.
• Too Tight: Overheating, premature wear, reduced cutting performance.

Pro Tip #3: Lubrication is Key

Proper lubrication is essential for extending the life of your chain and bar. The chain needs constant lubrication to reduce friction and prevent overheating.

Types of Chain Oil:

• Bar and Chain Oil: This is a specially formulated oil that is designed to adhere to the chain and bar, providing maximum lubrication. I recommend using a high-quality bar and chain oil specifically designed for chainsaws. Stihl makes excellent oils, but other reputable brands are also available.
• Vegetable-Based Oil: This is an environmentally friendly option that is biodegradable. It’s a good choice if you’re concerned about the environmental impact of chain oil. However, vegetable-based oils may not provide as much lubrication as petroleum-based oils, especially in cold weather.
• Used Motor Oil: Never use used motor oil as chain oil. It contains contaminants that can damage your chain and bar.

Lubrication System:

• The Stihl 251 has an automatic chain lubrication system. Make sure the oil reservoir is full before each use.
• Adjust the oil flow rate as needed, depending on the type of wood you’re cutting and the bar length.
• Check the oiler regularly to ensure it’s functioning properly.

Signs of Insufficient Lubrication:

• Smoke coming from the chain and bar.
• The chain feels hot to the touch.
• The chain is difficult to move around the bar.
• Premature wear of the chain and bar.

My Recommendation: I prefer to use Stihl’s synthetic bar and chain oil. It provides excellent lubrication, even in cold weather, and it’s relatively affordable. I also clean my bar and oiler regularly to prevent clogs and ensure proper lubrication.

Pro Tip #4: Choosing the Right Wood and Cutting Techniques

The type of wood you’re cutting and the cutting techniques you use can significantly impact the performance of your chainsaw and chain.

Wood Types and Their Characteristics:

• Softwoods (Pine, Fir, Spruce): Generally easier to cut than hardwoods. They tend to be less dense and have a lower moisture content.
• Hardwoods (Oak, Maple, Ash): More difficult to cut than softwoods. They are denser and have a higher moisture content when green.
• Dry vs. Green Wood: As mentioned earlier, dry wood is easier to cut but can be harder on the chain if dirty. Green wood is harder to cut and can gum up the chain.

Cutting Techniques:

• Felling: The process of cutting down a tree. This requires specialized knowledge and skills. If you’re not experienced in felling trees, it’s best to hire a professional.
• Bucking: The process of cutting a felled tree into shorter lengths. This is the most common task for firewood cutting.
• Splitting: The process of splitting the bucked logs into smaller pieces for firewood.

Safe Cutting Practices:

• Always wear appropriate safety gear: Helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, chaps, and steel-toed boots.
• Maintain a stable stance: Keep your feet firmly planted on the ground.
• Use both hands: Keep a firm grip on the chainsaw with both hands.
• Avoid cutting above shoulder height: This can be dangerous and tiring.
• Be aware of your surroundings: Watch out for obstacles, people, and animals.
• Never cut alone: Always have someone nearby in case of an emergency.
• Understand Kickback: Be aware of the kickback zone of your chainsaw and avoid cutting in this area. Kickback is a sudden, uncontrolled upward or backward movement of the chainsaw that can cause serious injury.

Case Study: Optimizing Cutting for Different Wood Types

I recently worked on a project where I had to process both seasoned oak and freshly felled pine. I found that the Stihl Rapid Super (RS) chain was ideal for the seasoned oak. It sliced through the dry wood quickly and efficiently. However, when I switched to the green pine, the RS chain started to gum up with sap and dull more quickly. I then switched to the Stihl Rapid Micro Comfort 3 (RMC3) chain, which performed much better in the green pine. The semi-chisel design was more forgiving of the sap and dirt, and it held its edge longer.

This experience reinforced the importance of choosing the right chain for the specific type of wood you’re cutting.

Pro Tip #5: Proper Chainsaw Maintenance

Regular maintenance is crucial for keeping your Stihl 251 in top condition and extending its lifespan.

Maintenance Tasks:

• Cleaning: Clean the chainsaw after each use. Remove sawdust, debris, and sap from the chain, bar, and engine. Use a brush and compressed air to clean hard-to-reach areas.
• Air Filter: Clean or replace the air filter regularly. A dirty air filter can restrict airflow and reduce engine performance.
• Spark Plug: Check and replace the spark plug as needed. A fouled spark plug can cause starting problems.
• Fuel Filter: Replace the fuel filter regularly. A clogged fuel filter can starve the engine of fuel.
• Bar Maintenance: Clean the bar groove regularly to remove sawdust and debris. Check the bar rails for wear and damage. File down any burrs or imperfections. Flip the bar periodically to ensure even wear.
• Chain Maintenance: Sharpen the chain regularly. Check the chain for damage and replace it as needed.
• Storage: Store the chainsaw in a dry, protected area. Drain the fuel tank before storing the chainsaw for extended periods.

Maintenance Schedule:

• Daily: Clean the chainsaw, check the chain tension, lubricate the chain and bar.
• Weekly: Clean or replace the air filter, check the spark plug, clean the bar groove.
• Monthly: Replace the fuel filter, inspect the chain and bar for wear and damage.
• Annually: Have the chainsaw serviced by a qualified technician.

My Routine: After each use, I thoroughly clean my Stihl 251. I remove the bar and chain, clean the bar groove with a screwdriver, and use compressed air to blow out any debris. I also check the air filter and spark plug. This routine takes only a few minutes, but it helps to keep my chainsaw running smoothly and reliably.

Additional Tips for Firewood Cutting Success

• Wood Storage: Stack your firewood properly to promote airflow and drying. The ideal method is to stack the wood in rows, with spaces between the rows and the ground. Cover the top of the stack to protect it from rain and snow, but leave the sides open to allow for ventilation.
• Splitting Techniques: Use a splitting axe or a hydraulic log splitter to split the bucked logs into smaller pieces. A hydraulic log splitter is much faster and easier than using an axe, especially for large or knotty logs. I’ve found that a 20-ton hydraulic splitter is sufficient for most firewood cutting tasks.
• Drying Time: Allow your firewood to dry for at least 6-12 months before burning it. The longer it dries, the better it will burn. Check the moisture content with a moisture meter. The ideal moisture content for firewood is below 20%.
• Seasoning Process: The seasoning process reduces moisture content, making the wood lighter, easier to light, and more efficient to burn. It also reduces smoke and creosote buildup in your chimney.
• Stacking Methods: Different stacking methods can affect drying time. Consider using a crisscross pattern or leaving gaps between logs to improve airflow.
• Safety Gear is Non-Negotiable: Never compromise on safety. Always wear the appropriate safety gear, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, chaps, and steel-toed boots.
• Respect the Environment: Be mindful of the environment when cutting firewood. Avoid cutting trees in protected areas or near waterways. Clean up any debris and dispose of it properly.

Costs and Considerations

• Chainsaw Chain Cost: Stihl chainsaw chains typically range from $20 to $50, depending on the type and length. Carbide-tipped chains can cost significantly more (over $100).
• Bar and Chain Oil Cost: A gallon of high-quality bar and chain oil typically costs around $20 to $30.
• Sharpening Equipment Cost: A round file and file guide can be purchased for around $20 to $30. An electric chain sharpener can cost from $50 to $200.
• Log Splitter Cost: Manual log splitters are relatively inexpensive (around $100 to $200). Hydraulic log splitters can range from $500 to $2000 or more.
• Fuel Costs: The cost of fuel will depend on the type of fuel you use and the amount of firewood you cut.
• Time Investment: Firewood cutting can be time-consuming. Be prepared to invest several hours or even days to cut and split a cord of wood.

Next Steps and Implementation

Now that you have a better understanding of Stihl 251 chainsaw chains and firewood cutting techniques, it’s time to put your knowledge into practice.

1. Assess Your Needs: Determine the type of wood you’ll be cutting and the amount of firewood you need.
2. Choose the Right Chain: Select the appropriate chain for your Stihl 251 based on your needs and budget.
3. Gather Your Tools: Assemble all the necessary tools and equipment, including a chainsaw, chain, bar and chain oil, sharpening equipment, safety gear, and a log splitter (if needed).
4. Plan Your Project: Develop a plan for cutting and splitting your firewood. Consider the location, safety, and environmental factors.
5. Get to Work: Start cutting and splitting your firewood, following the safety guidelines and techniques outlined in this guide.
6. Season Your Wood: Stack your firewood properly and allow it to dry for at least 6-12 months.
7. Enjoy Your Fire: Once your firewood is properly seasoned, enjoy the warmth and comfort of a crackling fire.

Final Thoughts

Cutting firewood can be a rewarding and enjoyable experience. By choosing the right tools, following safe practices, and maintaining your equipment properly, you can make the process more efficient and enjoyable. Remember to always prioritize safety and respect the environment.

I hope this guide has been helpful. Now, go out there and start cutting! And remember, the best firewood is the firewood you cut yourself.

Learn more