Stihl 250 Specs Compared (5 Pro Tips For Smooth Woodcutting)

Stihl MS 250: Unveiling the Specs and Potential

Before we dive into the pro tips, let’s get familiar with the Stihl MS 250.

Knowing its capabilities is crucial for understanding how to optimize its performance.

Engine and Power

The heart of the MS 250 is its 45.4 cc engine.

This displacement provides a good balance between power and weight, making it manageable for a wide range of users.

The engine delivers around 2.3 kW (3.1 bhp), which is sufficient for felling small trees, limbing, and bucking firewood.

I’ve used the MS 250 to fell trees up to 12 inches in diameter without much struggle.

For larger trees, it’s doable, but patience and proper technique are key.

Bar Length Options

The MS 250 typically comes with bar lengths ranging from 16 to 20 inches.

The optimal bar length depends on the size of the wood you’ll be cutting.

16-inch bar: Ideal for smaller trees, limbing, and firewood processing. Offers better maneuverability.
18-inch bar: A good all-around choice for general use.
20-inch bar: Suitable for slightly larger trees, but can make the saw feel a bit heavier.

I personally prefer the 18-inch bar as a sweet spot for versatility.

It allows me to handle most tasks without feeling overly cumbersome.

Weight and Ergonomics

The MS 250 weighs around 10.1 lbs (4.6 kg) without the bar and chain.

This is a manageable weight for most users, especially when compared to professional-grade saws.

The ergonomic design, including the comfortable handle and well-balanced weight distribution, contributes to reduced fatigue during extended use.

I’ve spent hours cutting firewood with the MS 250 and found it to be relatively comfortable, although taking breaks is always recommended.

Fuel and Oil Capacity

The fuel tank capacity is approximately 15.2 oz (450 ml), while the oil tank holds around 7.1 oz (210 ml).

This capacity allows for a decent amount of cutting time before needing to refuel or refill the chain oil.

I always recommend using high-quality 2-cycle engine oil mixed at the correct ratio (typically 50:1) to prolong the engine’s life.

Using the wrong oil or incorrect ratio can lead to engine damage and reduced performance.

Chain Type and Pitch

The MS 250 typically uses a 3/8″ pitch chain with a .050″ gauge.

The chain type can vary depending on the intended use, but a general-purpose chain is usually a good starting point.

I’ve found that a sharp chain makes a world of difference in cutting performance.

Dull chains not only slow down the cutting process but also put more strain on the engine and increase the risk of kickback.

Takeaway: Understanding the Stihl MS 250’s specs is the first step to maximizing its potential.

Choosing the right bar length, using the correct fuel mixture, and maintaining a sharp chain are crucial for optimal performance.

Stihl MS 250 vs. the Competition: A Comparative Overview

The Stihl MS 250 isn’t the only chainsaw in its class.

Let’s compare it to some of its competitors to see where it shines and where it might fall short.

Stihl MS 170/180: Entry-Level Options

The Stihl MS 170 and MS 180 are lighter and less powerful than the MS 250.

They’re suitable for very light tasks like pruning and small branches.

MS 170: Lower price point, but significantly less power.
MS 180: A slight upgrade over the MS 170, but still not comparable to the MS 250 in terms of cutting power.

I wouldn’t recommend these models for anything beyond very basic tasks.

They lack the power and durability needed for regular firewood processing or felling small trees.

Husqvarna 455 Rancher: A Popular Alternative

The Husqvarna 455 Rancher is a popular alternative to the Stihl MS 250.

It offers similar power and features, but with a slightly different design and feel.

Power: Comparable to the MS 250.
Weight: Slightly heavier than the MS 250.
Ergonomics: Some users prefer the Husqvarna’s handle design.

I’ve used both the MS 250 and the 455 Rancher extensively.

The choice between the two often comes down to personal preference.

Some people prefer the Stihl’s more compact design, while others prefer the Husqvarna’s more robust feel.

Echo CS-590 Timberwolf: A More Powerful Option

The Echo CS-590 Timberwolf is a more powerful chainsaw than the Stihl MS 250.

It’s a good option for users who need more cutting power for larger trees or tougher wood.

Power: Significantly more powerful than the MS 250.
Weight: Heavier than the MS 250.
Price: Generally higher than the MS 250.

If you regularly cut large trees or dense hardwoods, the Echo CS-590 Timberwolf might be a better choice.

However, for most homeowners, the Stihl MS 250 offers a good balance of power and weight.

Comparison Table

Takeaway: The Stihl MS 250 offers a good balance of power, weight, and price.

It’s a versatile chainsaw suitable for a wide range of tasks.

However, depending on your specific needs, other models might be a better fit.

Pro Tip #1: Mastering the Art of Chain Sharpening

A sharp chain is paramount for smooth and efficient woodcutting.

A dull chain not only slows you down but also increases the risk of kickback and puts unnecessary strain on the saw.

I can’t stress this enough: learn to sharpen your chain!

Why Sharpening Matters

Increased Cutting Speed: A sharp chain cuts through wood with ease, reducing cutting time and effort.
Improved Safety: A dull chain is more likely to kick back, posing a serious safety hazard.
Reduced Engine Strain: A sharp chain requires less power to cut, extending the life of your chainsaw.
Cleaner Cuts: A sharp chain produces cleaner, more precise cuts.

I’ve seen firsthand how a dull chain can turn a simple task into a frustrating ordeal.

Sharpening your chain is an investment in your safety, efficiency, and the longevity of your chainsaw.

Sharpening Tools

There are several methods for sharpening a chainsaw chain, each with its own advantages and disadvantages.

Hand Filing: This is the most common and affordable method.

It requires a round file, a flat file, and a depth gauge tool.
Electric Chain Sharpener: This is a faster and more precise method, but it requires an electric outlet and a higher initial investment.
Bar-Mounted Sharpener: This is a convenient option for sharpening on the go, but it’s not as precise as hand filing or using an electric sharpener.

I personally prefer hand filing because it allows me to maintain a high level of control and precision.

It also doesn’t require any electricity, making it ideal for remote locations.

Step-by-Step Guide to Hand Filing

Secure the Chainsaw: Place the chainsaw on a stable surface and engage the chain brake.
Identify the Correct File Size: The correct file size depends on the chain pitch.

For a 3/8″ pitch chain, a 5/32″ round file is typically used.
Position the File: Hold the file at the correct angle, typically 30 degrees, and align it with the cutting tooth.
File the Cutting Tooth: Use smooth, consistent strokes to file the cutting tooth from the inside out.

Maintain the correct angle and pressure.
File All Cutting Teeth: Repeat the process for all cutting teeth, ensuring that each tooth is filed to the same length and angle.
Check the Depth Gauges: Use a depth gauge tool to check the height of the depth gauges.

If they’re too high, file them down slightly.
Sharpen the Rakers (Depth Gauges): Use a flat file to lower the rakers according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.

This controls how deeply the chain cuts.
Deburr the Chain: Use a flat file to remove any burrs from the cutting edges.
Lubricate the Chain: Apply chain oil to the chain before using the chainsaw.

I recommend watching a few videos and practicing on an old chain before attempting to sharpen your good chain.

It takes practice to master the technique, but it’s well worth the effort.

Frequency of Sharpening

The frequency of sharpening depends on the type of wood you’re cutting and how often you use the chainsaw.

As a general rule, you should sharpen the chain every time you refuel the chainsaw.

I sharpen my chain more frequently when cutting dirty or abrasive wood.

I also sharpen it immediately if I notice any signs of dullness, such as the chain producing sawdust instead of chips or requiring excessive force to cut.

Takeaway: Mastering the art of chain sharpening is essential for smooth and efficient woodcutting.

A sharp chain not only improves cutting performance but also enhances safety and extends the life of your chainsaw.

Pro Tip #2: Optimizing Chain Tension for Peak Performance

Proper chain tension is critical for safe and efficient chainsaw operation.

Too loose, and the chain can derail or cause excessive wear.

Too tight, and it can bind, overheat, and damage the bar and sprocket.

I’ve learned this the hard way, so pay attention!

Why Chain Tension Matters

Safety: A properly tensioned chain is less likely to derail, reducing the risk of injury.
Performance: A properly tensioned chain cuts more efficiently, reducing cutting time and effort.
Longevity: Proper chain tension reduces wear on the chain, bar, and sprocket, extending their lifespan.

I once had a chain derail while cutting a large log.

Luckily, I wasn’t injured, but it could have been much worse.

Proper chain tension is a non-negotiable aspect of chainsaw safety.

Checking Chain Tension

The easiest way to check chain tension is to pull the chain away from the bar at the midpoint.

The chain should pull away slightly, but not so far that the drive links come out of the bar groove.

Correct Tension: The chain can be pulled away from the bar about 1/8 inch (3mm).
Too Loose: The chain sags noticeably and can be easily pulled away from the bar.
Too Tight: The chain is difficult to pull away from the bar and feels stiff.

I check the chain tension every time I refuel the chainsaw and after every few cuts, especially when using a new chain.

New chains tend to stretch more initially.

Adjusting Chain Tension

Most chainsaws have a side-mounted chain tensioner.

This allows you to adjust the chain tension without using any tools.

Loosen the Bar Nuts: Use a wrench to loosen the bar nuts that hold the bar in place.
Adjust the Tensioner: Use a screwdriver or the tensioning tool to turn the tensioner screw.

Turning the screw clockwise tightens the chain, while turning it counterclockwise loosens the chain.
Tighten the Bar Nuts: Once the chain is properly tensioned, tighten the bar nuts securely.
Recheck the Tension: After tightening the bar nuts, recheck the chain tension to ensure that it’s still correct.

I always make sure to tighten the bar nuts securely to prevent the bar from coming loose during operation.

A loose bar can be dangerous and can damage the chainsaw.

Factors Affecting Chain Tension

Temperature: The chain will expand as it heats up during use.

This means that you might need to loosen the chain slightly when it’s hot.
New Chains: New chains tend to stretch more initially, so you’ll need to adjust the tension more frequently.
Bar Wear: A worn bar can cause the chain to loosen more quickly.

I always keep these factors in mind when adjusting chain tension.

It’s better to err on the side of slightly too loose than too tight, as a tight chain can cause more damage.

Takeaway: Maintaining proper chain tension is crucial for safe and efficient chainsaw operation.

Check the chain tension regularly and adjust it as needed.

Pro Tip #3: Selecting the Right Chain Oil for Your Cutting Conditions

Chain oil is the lifeblood of your chainsaw.

It lubricates the chain and bar, reducing friction and wear.

Using the wrong chain oil can lead to premature wear, reduced performance, and even damage to the chainsaw.

I’ve seen engines seize due to poor lubrication – don’t let that happen to you.

Why Chain Oil Matters

Lubrication: Chain oil lubricates the chain and bar, reducing friction and wear.
Cooling: Chain oil helps to cool the chain and bar, preventing overheating.
Cleaning: Chain oil helps to flush away sawdust and debris, keeping the chain and bar clean.
Protection: Chain oil protects the chain and bar from rust and corrosion.

I always use high-quality chain oil to ensure optimal performance and longevity of my chainsaw.

Cheap chain oil might save you a few dollars in the short term, but it can cost you much more in the long run.

Types of Chain Oil

There are several types of chain oil available, each with its own advantages and disadvantages.

Petroleum-Based Chain Oil: This is the most common type of chain oil.

It’s affordable and provides good lubrication.
Vegetable-Based Chain Oil: This is a more environmentally friendly option.

It’s biodegradable and less toxic than petroleum-based chain oil.
Synthetic Chain Oil: This is the most expensive type of chain oil.

It provides superior lubrication and protection, especially in extreme conditions.

I typically use petroleum-based chain oil for general use.

However, I switch to vegetable-based chain oil when cutting near sensitive areas, such as streams or gardens.

Factors to Consider When Choosing Chain Oil

Viscosity: The viscosity of the chain oil should be appropriate for the temperature and the type of wood you’re cutting.

In colder weather, you’ll want a lower viscosity oil.
Tackiness: The chain oil should be tacky enough to cling to the chain and bar, even at high speeds.
Biodegradability: If you’re concerned about the environment, choose a biodegradable chain oil.
Additives: Some chain oils contain additives that improve lubrication, reduce wear, and protect against rust and corrosion.

I always check the manufacturer’s recommendations for the correct type of chain oil to use in my chainsaw.

Using the wrong type of chain oil can void the warranty.

Chain Oil Consumption

The amount of chain oil your chainsaw consumes depends on several factors, including the type of wood you’re cutting, the bar length, and the chain tension.

I typically refill the chain oil tank every time I refuel the chainsaw.

It’s better to over-lubricate than to under-lubricate.

Takeaway: Choosing the right chain oil is crucial for the performance and longevity of your chainsaw.

Consider the type of wood you’re cutting, the temperature, and your environmental concerns when selecting chain oil.

Pro Tip #4: Mastering Felling Cuts for Safety and Precision

Felling a tree is a serious undertaking that requires careful planning and execution.

Improper felling techniques can lead to serious injury or property damage.

I’ve seen enough close calls to know that shortcuts are never worth the risk.

Assessing the Tree and Surroundings

Before you even start the chainsaw, take the time to assess the tree and its surroundings.

Tree Lean: Determine the direction of the tree’s natural lean.
Wind Direction: Consider the wind direction, as it can affect the tree’s fall.
Obstacles: Identify any obstacles that could interfere with the tree’s fall, such as power lines, buildings, or other trees.
Escape Route: Plan a clear escape route that is at a 45-degree angle away from the direction of the fall.

I always clear any brush or debris from around the base of the tree to provide a safe and unobstructed work area.

The Felling Cuts

The felling cut consists of three main cuts: the notch, the back cut, and the hinge.

The Notch: The notch is a wedge-shaped cut that determines the direction of the fall.

It should be about 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
- Open Face Notch: This is the most common type of notch.
  
  It consists of a horizontal cut and an angled cut that meet to form a wedge.
- Humboldt Notch: This notch is similar to the open face notch, but the angled cut is made first.
The Back Cut: The back cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch.

It should be slightly higher than the horizontal cut of the notch.
- Leaving a Hinge: The back cut should not completely sever the tree.
  
  Leave a hinge of wood between the back cut and the notch.
  
  The hinge controls the direction and speed of the fall.
The Felling Wedge: Insert a felling wedge into the back cut to help guide the tree’s fall and prevent the bar from binding.

I always use a felling wedge when felling trees, especially larger trees.

The wedge provides extra leverage and helps to ensure a controlled fall.

Safety Precautions

Wear Appropriate Safety Gear: Always wear a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps.
Maintain a Safe Distance: Keep bystanders at a safe distance from the felling area.
Be Aware of Kickback: Be aware of the risk of kickback and use proper cutting techniques to avoid it.
Never Work Alone: Always work with a partner who can assist you in case of an emergency.

I always double-check my felling plan and safety precautions before starting the chainsaw.

It’s better to be safe than sorry.

Takeaway: Mastering felling cuts is essential for safe and precise tree felling.

Always assess the tree and surroundings, use proper cutting techniques, and take necessary safety precautions.

Pro Tip #5: Maintaining Your Stihl MS 250 for Long-Term Reliability

Regular maintenance is key to ensuring the long-term reliability and performance of your Stihl MS 250.

Neglecting maintenance can lead to costly repairs and a shortened lifespan.

I treat my chainsaw like a valued tool, and it rewards me with years of reliable service.

Air Filter Cleaning

A clean air filter is essential for proper engine performance.

A dirty air filter restricts airflow, which can lead to reduced power, increased fuel consumption, and engine damage.

Cleaning Frequency: Clean the air filter after every 5-10 hours of use, or more frequently in dusty conditions.
Cleaning Method: Remove the air filter and tap it gently to remove loose debris.

Then, wash it with warm soapy water and allow it to dry completely before reinstalling it.

I always inspect the air filter before each use and clean it if necessary.

A clean air filter is a simple way to keep your chainsaw running smoothly.

Spark Plug Inspection and Replacement

The spark plug ignites the fuel-air mixture in the engine.

A worn or fouled spark plug can cause starting problems, reduced power, and misfires.

Inspection Frequency: Inspect the spark plug every 25 hours of use.
Replacement Frequency: Replace the spark plug every 100 hours of use, or sooner if it’s worn or fouled.
Spark Plug Gap: Ensure the spark plug gap is set to the manufacturer’s specifications.

I always keep a spare spark plug on hand in case I need to replace it in the field.

A new spark plug can often resolve starting problems and improve engine performance.

Fuel Filter Replacement

The fuel filter prevents debris from entering the carburetor.

A clogged fuel filter can cause starting problems, reduced power, and engine stalling.

Replacement Frequency: Replace the fuel filter every year, or sooner if you suspect it’s clogged.

I always use fresh fuel and a fuel stabilizer to prevent fuel from going bad and clogging the fuel filter.

Bar and Chain Maintenance

Bar Cleaning: Clean the bar groove regularly to remove sawdust and debris.
Bar Rail Dressing: Dress the bar rails with a flat file to remove any burrs or unevenness.
Sprocket Inspection: Inspect the sprocket for wear and replace it if necessary.
Chain Sharpening: As mentioned earlier, keep the chain sharp for optimal performance and safety.

I always rotate the bar periodically to distribute wear evenly.

This can extend the life of the bar.

Storage

Proper storage is essential for preventing damage and corrosion to your chainsaw.

Drain the Fuel Tank: Drain the fuel tank before storing the chainsaw for extended periods.
Clean the Chainsaw: Clean the chainsaw thoroughly to remove sawdust and debris.
Store in a Dry Place: Store the chainsaw in a dry place to prevent rust and corrosion.

I always store my chainsaw in a case to protect it from dust and damage.

Takeaway: Regular maintenance is essential for ensuring the long-term reliability and performance of your Stihl MS 250.

Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for maintenance intervals and procedures.

By following these five pro tips, you can maximize the performance and lifespan of your Stihl MS 250, making your woodcutting tasks safer and more efficient.

Remember, a well-maintained chainsaw is a valuable tool that will provide years of reliable service.

Happy cutting!