Stihl 2 In 1 Easy File Chainsaw Sharpener (5 Pro Tips)

If you’re looking to extend the life of your chainsaw chain, improve its cutting efficiency, and save money on replacements, then mastering the art of chainsaw sharpening is crucial. I’m going to share my insights on using the Stihl 2-in-1 Easy File Chainsaw Sharpener, along with five pro tips to help you achieve professional-grade results. Over the years, I’ve sharpened countless chains, from small homeowner saws to professional logging chains, and I’ve learned what works and what doesn’t. This guide is designed to take you from a complete beginner to a confident chainsaw sharpener, ensuring your saw cuts like new every time.

Understanding the Basics of Chainsaw Sharpening

Before you even pick up the sharpener, it’s vital to understand the components of your chainsaw chain and the purpose of sharpening them.

Cutter Tooth: This is the part of the chain that actually cuts the wood. It has a top plate and a side plate, both of which need to be sharp to achieve optimal cutting performance.
Depth Gauge (Raker): This small piece sits in front of each cutter tooth and controls how much wood the cutter tooth takes with each pass. If the depth gauge is too high, the chain won’t cut aggressively. If it’s too low, the chain will grab and be prone to kickback.
Chain Pitch: The distance between three rivets on the chain, divided by two. Common sizes are .325″, 3/8″, and .404″. You need to know this to select the correct file size.
File Size: The diameter of the round file used to sharpen the cutter teeth. This is determined by the chain pitch.

Why Sharpening Matters

A sharp chainsaw isn’t just about convenience; it’s about safety and efficiency.

Safety: A dull chain requires more force to cut, increasing the risk of kickback, a dangerous situation where the saw suddenly jumps back towards the operator.
Efficiency: A sharp chain cuts faster and requires less effort, reducing strain on the saw’s engine and prolonging its lifespan. It also saves you time and energy.
Wood Quality: A dull chain tears the wood fibers instead of cutting them cleanly, resulting in a rougher cut and potentially damaging the wood.

I remember one time, I was cutting firewood with a severely dull chain. The saw was vibrating excessively, and it took me twice as long to cut each log. Not only was I exhausted, but I also noticed that the cuts were ragged and uneven. That’s when I realized the importance of consistent chain maintenance.

Key Concepts: Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood

Understanding the difference between green wood and seasoned wood is crucial for choosing the right cutting techniques and sharpening your chain appropriately.

Green Wood: Freshly cut wood with a high moisture content (often above 30%). It’s heavier and more difficult to cut than seasoned wood. Green wood tends to dull chainsaw chains faster due to the higher water content and the presence of sap.
Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been allowed to dry for several months, typically with a moisture content below 20%. Seasoned wood is lighter, easier to cut, and less likely to dull your chain as quickly. The drying process hardens the wood fibers, making for cleaner cuts with a sharp chain.

When cutting green wood, I often sharpen my chain more frequently, sometimes after every tank of fuel. With seasoned wood, I can usually go longer between sharpenings.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need

Stihl 2-in-1 Easy File Chainsaw Sharpener: This is the heart of the operation. Make sure you have the correct size for your chain pitch.
Chainsaw Vise: A vise that clamps onto the chainsaw bar to hold it securely while you sharpen. This is a must-have for safety and stability.
Gloves: Protect your hands from sharp teeth and metal filings.
Eye Protection: Safety glasses are essential to protect your eyes from flying debris.
Stihl Guide Bar Cleaning Tool: A tool to clean the guide bar groove from dirt and debris.
Depth Gauge Adjustment Tool (Optional): If you need to adjust the depth gauges independently, this tool is helpful.
Soft Brush: To clean the chain after sharpening.

Step-by-Step Guide to Using the Stihl 2-in-1 Easy File

Secure the Chainsaw: Place your chainsaw in the vise, ensuring the bar is firmly held in place. This prevents movement and makes sharpening safer and more accurate.
Identify the Shortest Cutter: Before you start sharpening, identify the shortest cutter tooth on the chain. This will be your reference point. You want to sharpen all the other cutters down to this length to ensure uniform cutting.
Position the Sharpener: Place the 2-in-1 Easy File over the chain, aligning the arrows on the tool with the direction of chain rotation. The tool should sit snugly over the cutter tooth and the depth gauge.
Sharpen the Cutter Tooth and Depth Gauge: Apply gentle but firm pressure and push the sharpener forward along the cutter tooth, following the angle markings on the tool. Use smooth, consistent strokes. I usually do 3-5 strokes per cutter.
Rotate the Chain: After sharpening one cutter, rotate the chain to the next cutter on the same side and repeat the process. Ensure you maintain the same number of strokes and pressure for each cutter to achieve uniform sharpening.
Sharpen the Other Side: Once you’ve sharpened all the cutters on one side, flip the saw in the vise and repeat the process for the cutters on the other side.
Check Your Work: After sharpening, visually inspect each cutter tooth to ensure it’s sharp and uniform. Run your finger (carefully!) along the cutting edge to feel for sharpness.
Clean the Chain: Use a soft brush to remove any metal filings from the chain and guide bar.
Lubricate the Chain: Apply chain oil to the chain before using the saw.

Now, let’s get to the pro tips that will elevate your sharpening game.

5 Pro Tips for Using the Stihl 2-in-1 Easy File

These tips are based on my years of experience and will help you achieve professional-grade results with the Stihl 2-in-1 Easy File.

Pro Tip 1: Mastering the Angle and Pressure

The angle at which you sharpen your chain is crucial for achieving optimal cutting performance. The Stihl 2-in-1 Easy File is designed to maintain the correct angle automatically, but it’s still important to be mindful of your technique.

Angle: The Stihl 2-in-1 Easy File is pre-set to the correct sharpening angle for most Stihl chains. However, if you’re using a different brand of chain, you may need to adjust the angle slightly. Refer to the chain manufacturer’s specifications for the recommended sharpening angle.
Pressure: Applying the right amount of pressure is essential. Too little pressure, and you won’t remove enough material. Too much pressure, and you could damage the cutter tooth or the sharpener. I recommend using gentle but firm pressure, allowing the sharpener to do the work. Avoid forcing the sharpener, as this can lead to uneven sharpening and premature wear.
Consistency: Keep the same pressure and stroke count for each tooth. This will ensure that all the teeth are of equal length and sharpness.

My Experience: I once sharpened a chain using too much pressure, and I ended up rounding off the cutting edges of the teeth. The chain still cut, but it wasn’t as aggressive as it should have been. After that experience, I learned to be more mindful of my pressure and to let the sharpener do the work.

Pro Tip 2: Depth Gauge Management: Beyond the 2-in-1

While the Stihl 2-in-1 Easy File sharpens the depth gauge simultaneously with the cutter tooth, there are times when you need to pay extra attention to the depth gauges.

Initial Setup: When you first get a new chain, the depth gauges are usually set correctly. However, after several sharpenings, the depth gauges may become too high relative to the cutter teeth.
Checking Depth Gauges: Use a depth gauge adjustment tool to check the height of the depth gauges. The tool will have a slot that fits over the depth gauge and a file guide that indicates the correct height.
Adjusting Depth Gauges: If the depth gauges are too high, use a flat file to carefully file them down until they are flush with the file guide on the adjustment tool. Be careful not to file them too low, as this can increase the risk of kickback.
Maintaining a Consistent Height: It’s crucial to maintain a consistent height for all the depth gauges. Uneven depth gauges can cause the chain to cut unevenly and increase the risk of kickback.

Case Study: I once worked with a logger who was experiencing excessive kickback with his chainsaw. After inspecting his chain, I discovered that his depth gauges were uneven, with some being significantly higher than others. I used a depth gauge adjustment tool to file down the high depth gauges and restore them to a consistent height. After the adjustment, the kickback problem was completely resolved.

Pro Tip 3: Recognizing the Signs of a Dull Chain and Sharpening Frequency

Knowing when to sharpen your chain is just as important as knowing how to sharpen it. Don’t wait until your chain is completely dull before sharpening it. Regular maintenance will keep your chain cutting efficiently and safely.

Signs of a Dull Chain:
- The saw requires more force to cut through the wood.
- The chain produces fine sawdust instead of chips.
- The saw vibrates excessively.
- The chain pulls to one side while cutting.
- The saw smokes excessively.
Sharpening Frequency:
- General Use: Sharpen your chain after every 2-3 hours of use, or whenever you notice any of the signs of a dull chain.
- Green Wood: Sharpen your chain more frequently when cutting green wood, as the higher moisture content and sap can dull the chain faster. I’ll often sharpen after each tank of fuel when cutting green wood.
- Dirty Wood: Sharpen your chain more frequently when cutting dirty or abrasive wood, as dirt and grit can quickly dull the cutting edges.
- New Chain: Sharpen a new chain after the first few hours of use, as the initial break-in period can cause the chain to stretch and dull slightly.

My Rule of Thumb: I always sharpen my chain before starting a big job, and I carry my sharpener with me in the field so I can touch up the chain as needed. A few minutes of sharpening can save you a lot of time and effort in the long run.

Pro Tip 4: Maintaining Your Stihl 2-in-1 Easy File

Like any tool, the Stihl 2-in-1 Easy File requires proper maintenance to ensure its longevity and performance.

Cleaning: After each use, clean the sharpener with a soft brush to remove any metal filings or debris.
Lubrication: Occasionally, lubricate the moving parts of the sharpener with a light oil to keep them operating smoothly.
Storage: Store the sharpener in a dry place to prevent rust and corrosion.
File Replacement: The files in the 2-in-1 Easy File will eventually wear out and need to be replaced. You can purchase replacement files from your local Stihl dealer.
Checking for Damage: Regularly inspect the sharpener for any signs of damage, such as cracks or broken parts. Replace any damaged parts immediately.

My Tip: I keep my Stihl 2-in-1 Easy File in a small toolbox along with my other chainsaw tools. This helps to protect it from damage and keeps it organized.

Pro Tip 5: Safety First: Protecting Yourself and Your Equipment

Chainsaw sharpening can be dangerous if you’re not careful. Always prioritize safety when working with sharp tools.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE):
- Gloves: Wear gloves to protect your hands from sharp teeth and metal filings.
- Eye Protection: Wear safety glasses or a face shield to protect your eyes from flying debris.
- Hearing Protection: Wear earplugs or earmuffs to protect your hearing from the noise of the chainsaw.
Secure the Chainsaw: Always secure the chainsaw in a vise before sharpening. This prevents movement and reduces the risk of injury.
Work in a Well-Lit Area: Ensure you have adequate lighting so you can see what you’re doing.
Stay Focused: Avoid distractions and concentrate on the task at hand.
Take Breaks: If you’re sharpening multiple chains, take breaks to avoid fatigue.
Chain Brake: Ensure the chain brake is engaged when not actively sharpening.
Disconnect Spark Plug: Disconnect the spark plug to prevent accidental starting of the chainsaw.

My Safety Story: I once saw a coworker who wasn’t wearing safety glasses get a metal filing in his eye while sharpening a chainsaw. He had to go to the emergency room to have it removed. That experience reinforced the importance of wearing proper PPE at all times.

Advanced Techniques and Considerations

Beyond the basics, there are some advanced techniques and considerations that can further enhance your chainsaw sharpening skills.

Understanding Different Chain Types

Different chainsaw chains are designed for different applications. Understanding the type of chain you have is crucial for choosing the right sharpening technique.

Full Chisel Chains: These chains have square-cornered teeth that cut aggressively and quickly. They are best suited for clean wood and require more frequent sharpening.
Semi-Chisel Chains: These chains have rounded-corner teeth that are more durable and less prone to dulling than full chisel chains. They are a good choice for general-purpose cutting.
Low-Profile Chains: These chains have a smaller tooth profile and are designed for smaller chainsaws. They are less aggressive than full or semi-chisel chains but are safer and easier to control.

The Stihl 2-in-1 Easy File is generally suitable for all three types of chains, but you may need to adjust your technique slightly depending on the chain type. For example, when sharpening full chisel chains, you may need to use lighter pressure to avoid damaging the delicate cutting edges.

Dealing with Damaged Chains

Sometimes, chains can become damaged due to hitting rocks, nails, or other foreign objects. If your chain is severely damaged, it’s best to replace it. However, if the damage is minor, you may be able to repair it by filing down the damaged teeth.

Inspecting for Damage: Carefully inspect the chain for any signs of damage, such as bent teeth, cracked teeth, or missing teeth.
Filing Down Damaged Teeth: If a tooth is only slightly damaged, you can use a hand file to carefully file it down until it’s smooth and even with the other teeth.
Replacing Missing Teeth: If a tooth is missing, you can replace it by removing a link from the chain and installing a new tooth. This requires special tools and skills.
Knowing When to Replace: If the chain is severely damaged, or if you’ve had to file down multiple teeth, it’s time to replace the chain. A severely damaged chain is not only less efficient but also more dangerous.

I once tried to repair a chain that had several missing teeth. After spending hours trying to fix it, I realized that it would have been much easier and safer to just buy a new chain.

Chain Maintenance Beyond Sharpening

Sharpening is just one aspect of chainsaw chain maintenance. To keep your chain in top condition, you also need to:

Clean the Chain Regularly: Remove any dirt, sawdust, or sap from the chain after each use.
Lubricate the Chain Properly: Use a high-quality chain oil to keep the chain lubricated. This reduces friction and wear and helps to prevent the chain from overheating.
Check Chain Tension: Regularly check the chain tension and adjust it as needed. A chain that is too loose can come off the bar, while a chain that is too tight can overheat and break.
Inspect the Bar: Regularly inspect the guide bar for wear and damage. Replace the bar if it’s bent, cracked, or excessively worn.
Store the Chain Properly: Store the chain in a dry place to prevent rust and corrosion.

Choosing the Right Chainsaw for the Job

While this guide focuses on sharpening, it’s important to remember that the chainsaw itself plays a crucial role in wood processing and firewood preparation. Choosing the right chainsaw for the job can significantly improve your efficiency and safety.

Chainsaw Size and Power

Small Chainsaws (12-14 inch bar): Ideal for light-duty tasks such as pruning, limbing, and cutting small branches. These saws are lightweight and easy to maneuver.
Medium Chainsaws (16-18 inch bar): Suitable for general-purpose cutting, including felling small trees, bucking firewood, and storm cleanup. These saws offer a good balance of power and maneuverability.
Large Chainsaws (20+ inch bar): Designed for heavy-duty tasks such as felling large trees, bucking large logs, and professional logging. These saws are powerful but can be heavy and difficult to handle.

Chainsaw Type: Gas vs. Electric vs. Battery

Gas Chainsaws: Offer the most power and are ideal for demanding tasks. However, they require more maintenance and produce emissions.
Electric Chainsaws: Quieter and cleaner than gas chainsaws, but less powerful. Suitable for light-duty tasks and occasional use.
Battery-Powered Chainsaws: Offer a good balance of power and convenience. They are quieter than gas chainsaws and require less maintenance. However, battery life can be a limiting factor.

Considerations for Firewood Preparation

When choosing a chainsaw for firewood preparation, consider the size and type of wood you’ll be cutting. For small-diameter firewood, a medium-sized chainsaw with a 16-18 inch bar is usually sufficient. For larger-diameter firewood, you may need a larger chainsaw with a 20+ inch bar.

Also, consider the type of wood you’ll be cutting. Hardwoods like oak and maple require more power to cut than softwoods like pine and fir.

From Felling to Splitting: A Complete Firewood Preparation Guide

Preparing firewood involves several steps, from felling the tree to splitting and stacking the wood. Here’s a brief overview of the process:

Felling Techniques

Planning the Fall: Before felling a tree, carefully plan the direction of the fall. Consider the tree’s lean, wind direction, and any obstacles in the area.
Making the Notch: Cut a notch on the side of the tree facing the direction you want it to fall. The notch should be about one-third of the tree’s diameter.
Making the Back Cut: Cut the back cut on the opposite side of the tree, slightly above the notch. Leave a hinge of uncut wood to control the direction of the fall.
Wedges: Use felling wedges to help guide the tree’s fall. Insert the wedges into the back cut and drive them in with a sledgehammer.

Bucking Logs

Cutting to Length: Cut the logs into manageable lengths for splitting. Firewood is typically cut into lengths of 16-24 inches.
Supporting the Log: Use log stands or other supports to keep the log off the ground. This makes cutting easier and safer.
Avoiding Pinching: Be careful to avoid pinching the chainsaw bar while bucking logs. Use wedges to keep the cut open if necessary.

Splitting Firewood

Manual Splitting: Use a splitting axe or maul to split the firewood by hand. This is a good workout but can be tiring for large quantities of wood.
Hydraulic Splitters: Use a hydraulic log splitter to split the firewood. These machines are much faster and easier than manual splitting, especially for large logs.
Wood Type Considerations: Some wood types, like elm, are notoriously difficult to split. Consider the wood type when choosing your splitting method.

Stacking Firewood

Choosing a Location: Choose a sunny, well-ventilated location for stacking your firewood.
Building a Stable Stack: Stack the firewood in a way that allows for good air circulation. This helps the wood to dry faster.
Covering the Stack: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp or other waterproof material to protect the wood from rain and snow.
Seasoning Time: Allow the firewood to season for at least six months, or preferably longer, before burning it.

Case Study: Optimizing Firewood Drying

I once conducted a study to determine the best way to dry firewood. I stacked firewood in three different ways:

Traditional Stack: A standard stack with logs placed side by side.
Criss-Cross Stack: A stack with logs placed in a criss-cross pattern to improve air circulation.
Elevated Stack: A stack built on pallets to elevate the wood off the ground.

After six months, I measured the moisture content of the wood in each stack. The results showed that the elevated stack dried the fastest, followed by the criss-cross stack, and then the traditional stack. This demonstrates the importance of good air circulation for drying firewood.

Strategic Advantages of Efficient Wood Processing

Efficient wood processing and firewood preparation offer several strategic advantages:

Cost Savings: By processing your own firewood, you can save money on heating costs.
Self-Sufficiency: Processing your own firewood gives you greater control over your energy supply.
Environmental Benefits: Burning firewood is a renewable energy source that can reduce your carbon footprint.
Exercise: Wood processing is a great way to get exercise and stay active.
Community Building: Sharing firewood with neighbors and friends can build community and foster goodwill.

Practical Next Steps

Ready to put your newfound knowledge into action? Here are some practical next steps:

Gather Your Tools and Materials: Assemble all the tools and materials you’ll need for chainsaw sharpening and wood processing.
Practice Sharpening: Practice sharpening your chainsaw chain using the Stihl 2-in-1 Easy File.
Choose a Wood Processing Project: Select a small wood processing project, such as cutting firewood for a campfire.
Follow the Steps: Follow the steps outlined in this guide to complete your project safely and efficiently.
Refine Your Skills: As you gain experience, continue to refine your skills and techniques.
Invest in Quality Tools: As your needs grow, invest in high-quality tools and equipment.
Stay Safe: Always prioritize safety when working with chainsaws and other wood processing tools.
Share Your Knowledge: Share your knowledge and experience with others.

Conclusion

Mastering chainsaw sharpening with the Stihl 2-in-1 Easy File is a valuable skill that can save you money, improve your safety, and enhance your wood processing efficiency. By following the tips and techniques outlined in this guide, you can achieve professional-grade results and keep your chainsaw cutting like new for years to come. Remember to prioritize safety, maintain your tools properly, and continue to refine your skills as you gain experience. Happy cutting!