Stihl 170 vs 180: Best Choice for Firewood Prep (5 Key Tips)

Ever wondered which chainsaw, the Stihl 170 or the Stihl 180, is the better workhorse for prepping your firewood? It’s a question I get asked all the time, and honestly, there’s no single right answer. It boils down to your specific needs, the type of wood you’re dealing with, and how often you plan on using it. I’ve spent years in the logging and firewood business, and I’ve seen both of these chainsaws perform admirably – and sometimes struggle. So, let’s dive deep, compare these two popular models, and arm you with the knowledge you need to make the best choice, along with five key tips to maximize their performance and longevity.

Stihl 170 vs 180: A Firewood Prep Showdown

The Stihl 170 and 180 are both lightweight, entry-level chainsaws designed for occasional use. They’re popular choices for homeowners who need to trim branches, fell small trees, and, of course, prepare firewood. But, there are subtle differences that can significantly impact your experience.

Defining Key Terms

Before we get into the nitty-gritty, let’s define a few key terms:

• Green Wood: Freshly cut wood with a high moisture content (often above 50%). It’s heavier and more difficult to split than seasoned wood.
• Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been allowed to dry for a period of time, typically 6-12 months, reducing its moisture content to 20% or less. Seasoned wood is lighter, easier to split, and burns more efficiently.
• Bar Length: The length of the guide bar on the chainsaw, which determines the maximum diameter of wood you can cut.
• Displacement: The size of the engine cylinder, measured in cubic centimeters (cc). Higher displacement generally means more power.
• Chain Pitch: The distance between three consecutive rivets on the saw chain, divided by two. It affects the smoothness and aggressiveness of the cut.

Side-by-Side Comparison: Stihl MS 170 vs. MS 180

Insight: While the differences seem small on paper, that slight increase in engine displacement and power output in the MS 180 can make a noticeable difference when cutting denser hardwoods.

Power and Performance

The Stihl MS 180 has a slight edge in power due to its larger engine displacement. This translates to a slightly faster cutting speed, especially when dealing with hardwoods like oak, maple, or ash. The MS 170, while still capable, might bog down a bit more in these situations.

Personal Experience: I remember one particularly cold winter where I was helping a friend prepare firewood. He had an MS 170, and I was using an MS 180. We were cutting through some seasoned oak logs, about 12 inches in diameter. While both saws got the job done, the MS 180 definitely felt like it had more grunt and cut through the wood with noticeably less effort.

Weight and Handling

Both saws are lightweight and easy to handle, making them suitable for extended use. However, the MS 170 is slightly lighter, which can be an advantage for users who prioritize maneuverability and reduced fatigue.

Practical Application: If you’re going to be doing a lot of limbing or working in tight spaces, the slightly lighter weight of the MS 170 might be preferable.

Durability and Maintenance

Both the MS 170 and MS 180 are known for their reliability, but proper maintenance is crucial for maximizing their lifespan. Regular cleaning, chain sharpening, and air filter maintenance are essential.

Maintenance Tip: Always use fresh, high-quality fuel and oil. Ethanol-blended gasoline can cause problems in small engines, so consider using ethanol-free fuel or a fuel stabilizer.

Cost

The MS 170 is generally slightly less expensive than the MS 180. However, the price difference is usually not significant enough to be the sole deciding factor.

Value Proposition: Consider the long-term value. If you anticipate cutting a lot of dense hardwoods, the slightly higher price of the MS 180 might be worth it for the increased power and performance.

The Verdict: Which Saw is Right for You?

• Choose the Stihl MS 170 if:
  • You primarily cut softwoods like pine or fir.
  • You need a lightweight and maneuverable saw for occasional use.
  • You’re on a tight budget.
• Choose the Stihl MS 180 if:
  • You regularly cut hardwoods like oak, maple, or ash.
  • You want a bit more power for faster cutting.
  • The slightly higher price isn’t a major concern.

5 Key Tips for Firewood Prep with Stihl 170 or 180

No matter which chainsaw you choose, these five key tips will help you maximize its performance, extend its lifespan, and ensure your safety.

Tip 1: Master the Art of Chain Sharpening

A sharp chain is essential for efficient and safe cutting. A dull chain will require more force, increase the risk of kickback, and put unnecessary strain on the engine.

Step-by-Step Guide to Chain Sharpening:

1. Secure the Chainsaw: Place the chainsaw on a stable surface and engage the chain brake.
2. Use the Correct File: Use a round file that matches the pitch of your chain. The Stihl MS 170 and MS 180 typically use a 3/16″ (4.8mm) file.
3. Maintain the Correct Angle: Use a file guide to maintain the correct sharpening angle. Stihl chains typically require a 30-degree top plate angle and a 10-degree down angle.
4. File Each Tooth Evenly: File each tooth with consistent strokes, counting the number of strokes per tooth to ensure uniformity.
5. Check the Depth Gauges: Use a depth gauge tool to ensure that the depth gauges (the small metal protrusions in front of each cutter) are set to the correct height. Lower depth gauges allow the chain to cut more aggressively, but can also increase the risk of kickback.
6. Deburr the Cutters: Use a flat file to remove any burrs from the cutters.

Data & Insights: I’ve found that sharpening my chain every 2-3 tanks of fuel significantly improves cutting performance and reduces fuel consumption. I also keep a spare, pre-sharpened chain on hand so I can quickly swap it out when needed. Using a chain sharpener can extend the life of your chain by as much as 50% and also reduces the risk of injury.

Case Study: I once worked with a logger who consistently neglected chain sharpening. He was constantly struggling to cut through even small logs, and his chainsaw was overheating. After I showed him how to properly sharpen his chain, his cutting speed increased dramatically, and his chainsaw ran much cooler.

Tip 2: Choose the Right Bar Length and Chain Type

The correct bar length and chain type can make a significant difference in cutting performance and safety.

Bar Length Selection:

• 12″ Bar: Suitable for small branches and limbing.
• 14″ Bar: A good all-around choice for general firewood prep.
• 16″ Bar: Useful for cutting larger diameter logs, but can be more difficult to maneuver.

Chain Type Selection:

• Low-Kickback Chain: Designed to reduce the risk of kickback, making it a safer choice for inexperienced users.
• Full-Chisel Chain: Offers faster cutting speeds but is more prone to kickback and requires more skill to use safely.
• Semi-Chisel Chain: A good compromise between cutting speed and safety.

Strategic Advantage: Using a longer bar than necessary can make the saw feel unwieldy and increase the risk of kickback. Choose the shortest bar length that is appropriate for the size of the logs you’ll be cutting.

Tool Specifications: The Stihl MS 170 and MS 180 typically use a 3/8″ low profile chain with a .050″ gauge.

Original Insight: I’ve found that using a low-kickback chain is a good idea, especially when cutting near the tip of the bar. Kickback can happen in a fraction of a second, and it can be extremely dangerous.

Tip 3: Master Felling Techniques for Safe and Efficient Wood Gathering

Felling trees safely and efficiently is crucial for firewood preparation. Improper felling techniques can result in injury, property damage, and wasted wood.

Step-by-Step Guide to Felling a Tree:

1. Assess the Tree: Look for any signs of weakness or decay, such as dead branches, cracks in the trunk, or fungal growth. Also, consider the lean of the tree and the direction of the wind.
2. Clear the Area: Clear a path around the base of the tree and identify a safe escape route.
3. Make the Notch: Cut a notch on the side of the tree in the direction you want it to fall. The notch should be about one-third of the tree’s diameter.
4. Make the Back Cut: Cut the back cut on the opposite side of the tree, slightly above the notch. Leave a hinge of wood to control the direction of the fall.
5. Use Wedges (If Necessary): If the tree is leaning in the wrong direction, use wedges to help guide its fall.
6. Shout a Warning: Shout “Timber!” to warn anyone in the area that the tree is about to fall.
7. Retreat Safely: Move away from the tree quickly and safely, watching for falling branches.

Felling Techniques:

• Conventional Felling: The standard felling technique, as described above.
• Hinge Felling: A more advanced technique that involves creating a longer hinge to provide greater control over the fall.
• Bore Cutting: A technique used to fell trees with a heavy lean or those that are surrounded by other trees.

Safety Considerations:

• Always wear appropriate safety gear, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, and chainsaw chaps.
• Never fell a tree alone.
• Be aware of your surroundings and watch for hazards such as power lines, roads, and buildings.
• If you’re not comfortable felling a tree, hire a professional.

Original Case Study: I once witnessed a logger who was trying to fell a large oak tree in a confined space. He didn’t properly assess the lean of the tree, and it fell in the opposite direction of where he intended. The tree narrowly missed a nearby house, and the logger was lucky to escape without injury. This incident highlighted the importance of careful planning and proper felling techniques.

Data & Insights: According to the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA), tree felling is one of the most dangerous jobs in the logging industry. Proper training and adherence to safety guidelines are essential for preventing accidents.

Tip 4: Efficient Log Splitting Techniques: Axe vs. Log Splitter

Once you’ve felled the tree, you’ll need to split the logs into manageable pieces for firewood. There are two main methods for splitting logs: using an axe or using a log splitter.

Splitting with an Axe:

• Choose the Right Axe: A splitting axe with a heavy head and a long handle is ideal for splitting logs.
• Use a Splitting Block: A sturdy splitting block will provide a stable surface for splitting logs.
• Position the Log: Place the log on the splitting block with the grain running vertically.
• Swing with Confidence: Swing the axe with a controlled and powerful motion, aiming for the center of the log.
• Use Wedges (If Necessary): If the log is difficult to split, use wedges to help break it apart.

Splitting with a Log Splitter:

• Choose the Right Log Splitter: There are two main types of log splitters: hydraulic and manual. Hydraulic log splitters are more powerful and efficient, but they are also more expensive. Manual log splitters are less expensive and require more physical effort.
• Follow the Manufacturer’s Instructions: Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for operating the log splitter.
• Position the Log: Place the log on the log splitter with the grain running vertically.
• Engage the Splitter: Engage the log splitter to split the log.
• Remove the Split Wood: Remove the split wood from the log splitter.

Axe vs. Log Splitter: Pros and Cons:

Strategic Advantage: For small-scale firewood preparation, an axe might be sufficient. However, for larger volumes of wood, a log splitter can save a significant amount of time and energy.

Tool Specifications: A good splitting axe should have a head weight of at least 6 pounds and a handle length of at least 30 inches. Hydraulic log splitters typically have a splitting force of 20-30 tons.

Data & Insights: I’ve found that using a hydraulic log splitter can increase my firewood production by as much as 50% compared to using an axe. While the initial investment is higher, the increased efficiency and reduced physical strain make it a worthwhile investment for anyone who prepares a lot of firewood.

Tip 5: Proper Firewood Drying and Stacking Techniques

Proper drying and stacking are essential for producing high-quality firewood that burns efficiently and cleanly.

Drying Methods:

• Air Drying: The most common method for drying firewood. Stack the wood in a sunny, well-ventilated area and allow it to dry for 6-12 months.
• Kiln Drying: A faster method that involves drying the wood in a kiln. Kiln-dried firewood typically has a moisture content of 20% or less.

Stacking Techniques:

• Elevate the Wood: Stack the wood on pallets or other supports to keep it off the ground and improve air circulation.
• Leave Space Between Rows: Leave space between rows of wood to allow for air circulation.
• Cover the Top: Cover the top of the wood pile with a tarp or other waterproof material to protect it from rain and snow.
• Stack in a Sunny Location: Stack the wood in a sunny location to maximize drying.
• Consider the Prevailing Winds: Orient the wood pile to take advantage of the prevailing winds.

Moisture Content Targets:

• Green Wood: 50% or higher moisture content.
• Seasoned Wood: 20% or less moisture content.

Measuring Moisture Content:

• Moisture Meter: Use a moisture meter to measure the moisture content of the wood.
• Visual Inspection: Seasoned wood will typically be lighter in color and have cracks or splits in the ends.
• Sound Test: Seasoned wood will make a hollow sound when struck, while green wood will make a dull thud.

Drying Times:

• Softwoods: Typically dry faster than hardwoods.
• Hardwoods: Can take 6-12 months or longer to dry properly.

Original Insight: I’ve found that stacking firewood in a circular pattern, with the bark facing outwards, helps to improve air circulation and speed up the drying process. This method also creates a visually appealing wood pile.

Case Study: A friend of mine stacked his firewood directly on the ground, without any air circulation. After a year, the wood was still damp and moldy, and it burned poorly. This illustrates the importance of proper stacking and drying techniques.

Strategic Advantage: Properly seasoned firewood burns hotter, cleaner, and more efficiently than green wood. It also produces less smoke and creosote, which can reduce the risk of chimney fires.

Practical Next Steps

Now that you’re armed with this knowledge, here are some practical next steps you can take:

1. Assess Your Needs: Consider the type of wood you’ll be cutting, the volume of firewood you’ll be preparing, and your budget.
2. Choose the Right Chainsaw: Based on your needs, choose either the Stihl MS 170 or the Stihl MS 180.
3. Gather Your Tools: Assemble all the necessary tools, including a chainsaw, axe or log splitter, splitting block, wedges, safety gear, and a moisture meter.
4. Practice Safe Techniques: Review the safety guidelines and practice safe felling, splitting, and stacking techniques.
5. Start Preparing Firewood: Start felling trees, splitting logs, and stacking firewood.
6. Monitor Drying: Monitor the moisture content of the wood and adjust your drying techniques as needed.
7. Enjoy the Warmth: Once the wood is properly seasoned, enjoy the warmth and comfort of a crackling fire.

By following these tips and techniques, you can efficiently and safely prepare high-quality firewood that will keep you warm throughout the winter. Remember, safety is always the top priority. Take your time, be careful, and enjoy the process.

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