Stihl 170 vs 171 Chainsaws (5 Pro Tips for Woodcutting)

The scent of freshly cut wood, a symphony of pine and sawdust, fills the air. The low hum of the engine vibrates through my gloved hands as I prepare to make the first cut. It’s a familiar feeling, one that connects me to a lineage of woodcutters stretching back generations. Today, the task at hand is to delve into the nitty-gritty of two popular chainsaws: the Stihl MS 170 and the MS 171. These are workhorses for many homeowners and hobbyists, and understanding their nuances can significantly impact your woodcutting efficiency and safety. I’ve spent countless hours in the field with both models, from clearing storm debris to preparing winter firewood. I’m here to share my hands-on experience and technical insights to help you decide which one is the right tool for you, and to offer some pro tips that apply to woodcutting with either machine.

Stihl MS 170 vs. MS 171: A Deep Dive & 5 Pro Tips

The question of which chainsaw reigns supreme, the Stihl MS 170 or the MS 171, is a common one. While they appear similar at first glance, subtle differences in engine performance, design, and features can make a world of difference depending on your specific needs. Let’s get into the details.

1. Understanding the Core Specs

Before we dive into the subjective experience, let’s lay out the hard facts. I always believe in starting with the numbers, as they provide a solid foundation for any informed decision.

• Engine Power: The MS 170 typically boasts around 1.7 horsepower (1.3 kW), while the MS 171 edges slightly ahead with approximately 1.8 horsepower (1.4 kW). While this might seem insignificant, that extra tenth of a horsepower can be noticeable when cutting through denser hardwoods.
• Engine Displacement: The MS 170 features a 30.1 cc engine, whereas the MS 171 offers a slightly larger 31.8 cc displacement. Again, this contributes to the MS 171’s marginally improved cutting performance.
• Weight: Both chainsaws are relatively lightweight, making them ideal for extended use. The MS 170 generally weighs around 9.3 pounds (4.2 kg) without the bar and chain, while the MS 171 comes in at approximately 9.5 pounds (4.3 kg). The slight weight difference is usually negligible.
• Bar Length: Both models are commonly available with 14-inch or 16-inch bars. I generally prefer the 16-inch bar for added reach and versatility, especially when dealing with larger logs, but the 14-inch is more maneuverable for limbing.
• Fuel and Oil Capacity: Both have similar fuel capacities, around 0.25 liters. The oil capacity is also comparable, approximately 0.15 liters. Always use high-quality 2-stroke oil mixed at the manufacturer’s recommended ratio (typically 50:1).
• Chain Type: Both saws typically use a 3/8″ P Picco Micro chain. The MS 171 sometimes comes equipped with a slightly higher-performing chain, but this can be easily upgraded on the MS 170 as well.

2. Performance in the Field: My Personal Experiences

Numbers aside, what really matters is how these chainsaws perform in real-world scenarios. Over the years, I’ve put both models through their paces, and here’s what I’ve learned:

• MS 170: This chainsaw is a reliable workhorse for light-duty tasks. I’ve used it extensively for pruning, limbing small trees, and cutting firewood from smaller diameter logs (up to 8-10 inches). It’s easy to start, relatively quiet, and comfortable to handle. However, it can struggle with larger, denser hardwoods. One time, I was cutting some seasoned oak logs, and the MS 170 bogged down noticeably, requiring me to take smaller bites.
• MS 171: The MS 171 offers a noticeable step up in power. I’ve found it to be more capable of handling larger diameter logs (up to 12-14 inches) and denser wood species like maple and oak. The slightly larger engine displacement provides more torque, allowing it to maintain cutting speed even under heavier loads. I remember using it to fell a small, diseased ash tree, and it powered through the trunk with ease, leaving me impressed with its performance.
• Vibration and Ergonomics: Both chainsaws are relatively comfortable to use, thanks to their lightweight design and anti-vibration systems. However, I’ve found the MS 171 to be slightly more refined in this regard, with a slightly smoother engine and reduced vibration. This can make a difference during prolonged use, reducing fatigue and improving control.

3. Maintenance and Longevity: Keeping Your Saw Running Smoothly

Regular maintenance is crucial for ensuring the longevity and performance of any chainsaw. Both the MS 170 and MS 171 are relatively easy to maintain, but here are a few key points to keep in mind:

• Chain Sharpening: A sharp chain is essential for efficient and safe cutting. I recommend sharpening your chain after every few hours of use, or whenever you notice a decrease in cutting performance. Use a chainsaw file and follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. Maintaining the correct angle and depth is critical. I’ve found that a dull chain not only slows down cutting but also increases the risk of kickback.
• Air Filter Cleaning: A clean air filter is essential for proper engine performance. Check and clean the air filter regularly, especially when working in dusty conditions. I usually use compressed air to blow out the filter, but you can also wash it with warm soapy water. Make sure the filter is completely dry before reinstalling it.
• Spark Plug Inspection: Inspect the spark plug periodically and replace it if necessary. A fouled spark plug can cause starting problems and reduced engine performance.
• Bar and Chain Lubrication: Ensure that the bar and chain are properly lubricated at all times. Use a high-quality bar and chain oil. Check the oil level frequently and refill as needed. Proper lubrication reduces friction, prolongs the life of the bar and chain, and improves cutting performance. I once neglected to check the oil level, and the chain overheated and stretched, requiring me to replace it prematurely.
• Fuel System Maintenance: Use fresh fuel and store your chainsaw properly when not in use. Drain the fuel tank before storing the chainsaw for extended periods. Old fuel can gum up the carburetor and cause starting problems. I also recommend using a fuel stabilizer to prevent fuel degradation.
• Carburetor Adjustment: If your chainsaw is not running properly, you may need to adjust the carburetor. This is best left to a qualified technician, but you can find instructions in the owner’s manual.
• Data Point: According to Stihl’s maintenance guidelines, regular servicing can extend the life of your chainsaw by up to 50%. Neglecting maintenance can lead to costly repairs and reduced performance.

4. Safety First: Protecting Yourself and Others

Operating a chainsaw can be dangerous if proper safety precautions are not followed. I cannot stress this enough: safety is paramount. Here’s a rundown of essential safety practices:

• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Always wear appropriate PPE, including:
  • Chainsaw Helmet: Protects your head from falling debris and kickback.
  • Eye Protection: Safety glasses or a face shield to protect your eyes from flying chips and debris.
  • Hearing Protection: Earplugs or earmuffs to protect your hearing from the loud noise of the chainsaw.
  • Chainsaw Gloves: Provide a secure grip and protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
  • Chainsaw Chaps or Pants: Protect your legs from accidental contact with the chain. These are crucial! I know someone who avoided a serious leg injury because he was wearing chaps.
  • Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and accidental cuts.
• Safe Operating Practices:
  • Read the Owner’s Manual: Familiarize yourself with the chainsaw’s features, controls, and safety instructions.
  • Inspect the Chainsaw: Before each use, inspect the chainsaw for any damage or loose parts. Make sure the chain is sharp and properly tensioned.
  • Start the Chainsaw Safely: Start the chainsaw on the ground or on a stable surface. Never drop-start a chainsaw.
  • Maintain a Firm Grip: Use both hands to hold the chainsaw securely. Keep your thumbs wrapped around the handles.
  • Maintain a Safe Distance: Keep a safe distance from other people and obstacles.
  • Be Aware of Kickback: Kickback is a sudden and violent upward or backward movement of the chainsaw. It can occur when the tip of the bar contacts a solid object. Be aware of the kickback zone and avoid cutting with the tip of the bar.
  • Plan Your Cuts: Before making a cut, plan your approach and ensure that you have a clear escape route.
  • Never Cut Above Shoulder Height: Cutting above shoulder height is dangerous and can lead to loss of control.
  • Take Breaks: If you are working for an extended period, take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue.
  • Never Operate a Chainsaw Under the Influence of Drugs or Alcohol: This should be obvious, but it’s worth stating.
• Data Point: According to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, chainsaws cause approximately 36,000 injuries each year. Wearing appropriate PPE and following safe operating practices can significantly reduce your risk of injury.

5. Pro Tips for Woodcutting Efficiency

Now that we’ve covered the basics, let’s move on to some pro tips that can help you improve your woodcutting efficiency and get the most out of your chainsaw, whether it’s the MS 170 or the MS 171:

• Tip #1: Mastering the Bore Cut: The bore cut is a technique used to fell trees and buck logs safely and efficiently. It involves plunging the tip of the bar into the wood to create a hinge, which helps control the direction of the fall. This is an advanced technique, so practice on smaller logs first. Be extremely cautious of kickback when plunging the bar.
  • Technical Detail: The hinge should be approximately 10% of the tree’s diameter. This provides sufficient holding power while allowing for controlled felling.
• Tip #2: Understanding Wood Moisture Content: The moisture content of wood significantly affects its cutting properties and its suitability for firewood. Green wood is much harder to cut than seasoned wood, and it also produces more smoke when burned.
  • Technical Detail: Firewood should have a moisture content of less than 20% for optimal burning. You can use a moisture meter to measure the moisture content of wood. I’ve found that splitting wood and allowing it to air dry for 6-12 months is usually sufficient to reduce the moisture content to acceptable levels.
  • Case Study: I once tried to burn green oak firewood, and it was a disaster. It barely burned, produced copious amounts of smoke, and coated my chimney with creosote. After letting it dry for a year, it burned beautifully.
• Tip #3: Choosing the Right Chain for the Job: Different types of chains are designed for different applications. A full-chisel chain is ideal for cutting clean wood quickly, while a semi-chisel chain is more durable and better suited for cutting dirty or knotty wood.
  • Technical Detail: The MS 170 and MS 171 typically come with a 3/8″ P Picco Micro chain, which is a good all-around chain. However, you can upgrade to a different type of chain depending on your needs. I often switch to a full-chisel chain when cutting clean softwood logs.
• Tip #4: Optimizing Your Cutting Technique: Proper cutting technique can significantly improve your efficiency and reduce fatigue. Let the chainsaw do the work. Don’t force it. Use a steady, controlled motion and maintain a consistent cutting speed.
  • Technical Detail: When bucking logs, use a sawhorse to support the log and avoid cutting into the ground. This will protect your chain and prevent kickback.
• Tip #5: Calibrating Your Chainsaw (Advanced): This is a more advanced tip, but it can significantly improve your chainsaw’s performance. Chainsaws are calibrated at the factory, but over time, the carburetor settings can drift. If your chainsaw is not running smoothly or is difficult to start, you may need to adjust the carburetor.
  • Technical Detail: The carburetor has three adjustment screws: the low-speed (L) screw, the high-speed (H) screw, and the idle speed (LA) screw. Adjusting these screws requires specialized tools and knowledge. I recommend consulting a qualified technician if you are not comfortable performing this task yourself. However, understanding the basics can help you diagnose problems. The low-speed screw affects the chainsaw’s performance at idle and low speeds, while the high-speed screw affects its performance at full throttle. The idle speed screw adjusts the engine’s idle speed.
  • Caution: Incorrect carburetor adjustments can damage your engine.

Final Thoughts: Choosing Your Champion

So, which chainsaw is the better choice: the Stihl MS 170 or the MS 171? The answer depends on your specific needs and budget.

• Choose the MS 170 if: You primarily need a chainsaw for light-duty tasks such as pruning, limbing small trees, and cutting small-diameter firewood. It’s a great value for the price and is easy to handle.
• Choose the MS 171 if: You need a chainsaw that can handle larger diameter logs and denser wood species. The extra power and slightly refined design make it a more versatile and capable tool.

Ultimately, both the Stihl MS 170 and MS 171 are solid chainsaws that can provide years of reliable service. By understanding their strengths and weaknesses, and by following the pro tips outlined above, you can make an informed decision and get the most out of your woodcutting experience. Remember to prioritize safety at all times, and always wear appropriate PPE. Now, get out there and make some sawdust!

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