Stihl 170 Chainsaw Tips (5 Pro Hacks For Faster Woodcutting)

Introduction: Taming the Stihl 170 – My Quest for Faster Woodcutting

“This little saw just isn’t cutting it!” How many times have I heard that complaint, especially from folks new to chainsaws or those using entry-level models like the Stihl MS 170? I get it. The MS 170 is a fantastic, lightweight chainsaw, perfect for limbing, small tree felling, and general property maintenance. It’s the workhorse that many homeowners rely on. However, its smaller engine (around 30cc) means it requires a bit of finesse to unlock its full potential, especially when tackling thicker logs or hardwoods.

Over the years, I’ve spent countless hours in the woods, using everything from vintage axes to modern hydraulic splitters. But I always come back to the chainsaw. It’s the tool that bridges the gap between brute force and efficient wood processing. And while I’ve used plenty of high-powered saws, the Stihl 170 holds a special place because it taught me valuable lessons about technique, maintenance, and maximizing performance with limited power.

In this article, I’m going to share five pro hacks that I’ve learned to make your Stihl 170 cut faster and more efficiently. These aren’t magic tricks, but rather a combination of understanding the saw’s limitations, optimizing its setup, and refining your cutting technique. Get ready to transform your woodcutting experience!

1. Understanding Your Stihl 170: The Foundation of Efficient Cutting

Before diving into the hacks, it’s crucial to understand the Stihl MS 170’s anatomy and limitations. This isn’t just about knowing where the on/off switch is; it’s about appreciating the saw’s design and how it interacts with wood.

1.1 Wood Anatomy and Properties: Knowing Your Enemy (or Friend!)

Different types of wood behave differently under the chainsaw. Understanding this is the first step to faster cutting.

Hardwood vs. Softwood: This is the most fundamental distinction. Hardwoods (oak, maple, ash) are denser and have tighter grain structures than softwoods (pine, fir, spruce). This density translates to more resistance to cutting. According to the USDA Forest Service, the density of oak can be twice that of pine. This means you’ll need to apply more pressure and maintain a sharper chain when cutting hardwoods.
Moisture Content: Freshly cut (green) wood has a high moisture content, often exceeding 50%. This moisture acts as a lubricant, making the initial cut easier. However, green wood also tends to bind the chain more, requiring more force to push the saw through. Seasoned wood (dried to around 20% moisture content) is generally easier to cut, but it can also be harder on the chain if it’s very dry and hard. I’ve found that wood seasoned for about six months to a year strikes a good balance between ease of cutting and reduced chain binding.
Grain Direction: Cutting with the grain (parallel to the wood fibers) is significantly easier than cutting against the grain (perpendicular). Think of it like shaving with the grain versus against it. Always try to orient your cuts to take advantage of the grain direction whenever possible.
Knots: These are points where branches grew from the tree. The wood around knots is denser and has swirling grain, making it extremely difficult to cut through. Knots are notorious for causing kickback, so approach them with extra caution and a sharp chain.

1.2 The Stihl MS 170: A Closer Look at Its Capabilities

The Stihl MS 170 is designed for light to medium-duty tasks. Here’s what you need to know:

Engine Displacement: The MS 170 typically has an engine displacement of around 30.1 cc. This is relatively small, which means it lacks the raw power of larger saws. However, it also makes it lightweight and easy to handle.
Bar Length: The MS 170 usually comes with a 14-inch or 16-inch bar. While a longer bar can reach larger logs, it also puts more strain on the engine. I recommend sticking with the 14-inch bar for optimal performance, especially when cutting hardwoods.
Chain Type: The chain that comes standard on the MS 170 is a general-purpose chain. However, upgrading to a low-kickback chain or a full-chisel chain (for experienced users) can improve cutting speed and efficiency.
Automatic Oiler: The MS 170 has an automatic oiler that lubricates the chain. It’s crucial to keep the oil reservoir filled and the oiler functioning properly. A dry chain will quickly dull and overheat, significantly slowing down your cutting.

1.3 Identifying the Limiting Factors

Once you understand the wood and the saw, you can identify the limiting factors that are slowing you down. These often include:

Dull Chain: This is the most common culprit. A dull chain requires more force to cut, which strains the engine and slows you down.
Incorrect Chain Tension: A chain that’s too loose will vibrate and cut unevenly. A chain that’s too tight will bind and overheat.
Insufficient Oiling: A dry chain creates friction, which dulls the chain and reduces cutting speed.
Over-Pressurizing: Pushing too hard on the saw can bog down the engine and cause it to stall.
Cutting the Wrong Wood: Trying to cut large-diameter hardwoods with the MS 170 is like trying to drive a nail with a rubber hammer. It can be done, but it’s not efficient.

2. Hack #1: Mastering Chain Sharpening: The Key to Aggressive Cutting

A sharp chain is the single most important factor in achieving fast, efficient cutting with any chainsaw, especially the Stihl MS 170. A dull chain doesn’t cut; it grinds, wasting energy and putting unnecessary strain on the saw and your body. I cannot stress this enough: learn to sharpen your chain.

2.1 Why Chain Sharpening Matters

Increased Cutting Speed: A sharp chain slices through wood with minimal effort, allowing you to cut faster and more efficiently. I’ve seen cutting times improve by as much as 50% simply by sharpening the chain.
Reduced Strain on the Saw: A sharp chain reduces the amount of force required to cut, which prolongs the life of the saw’s engine and components.
Improved Safety: A dull chain is more likely to kick back, increasing the risk of injury. A sharp chain bites into the wood cleanly and predictably.
Better Fuel Efficiency: A sharp chain requires less engine power to cut, which translates to better fuel economy.

2.2 Sharpening Tools: Choosing the Right Equipment

There are several methods for sharpening chainsaw chains, each with its pros and cons:

Round File and Guide: This is the most common and affordable method. It requires a round file of the correct diameter for your chain (usually 5/32″ or 3/16″) and a file guide to maintain the correct angle and depth. It’s a skill that takes practice, but once mastered, it’s a quick and effective way to sharpen your chain in the field.
Electric Chain Sharpener: These sharpeners use a grinding wheel to quickly and accurately sharpen the chain. They’re more expensive than files, but they can save time and effort, especially if you have a lot of chains to sharpen. I have both a hand file and an electric sharpener. I use the electric sharpener for initial sharpening and the file for touch-ups in the field.
Handheld Chain Grinder: These are battery-powered and can be used in the field. They are more expensive than a file but are easier to use than an electric sharpener, and they are portable.

2.3 The Sharpening Process: Step-by-Step Guide

Here’s a step-by-step guide to sharpening your chainsaw chain using a round file and guide:

Secure the Chain: Place the chainsaw in a vise or clamp it securely to a stump. This will prevent the chain from moving while you’re sharpening.
Identify the Cutter Type: Determine whether your chain has standard cutters or chipper cutters. This will affect the angle at which you sharpen.
Set the File Guide: Place the file guide on the chain, aligning the arrows with the direction of rotation.
File the Cutter: Insert the round file into the file guide and push it forward along the cutter, following the angle of the file guide. Use smooth, even strokes.
Count Your Strokes: Count the number of strokes you use on each cutter. This will ensure that you sharpen each cutter evenly.
Sharpen All Cutters: Repeat steps 4 and 5 for all cutters on the chain.
Lower the Depth Gauges: After sharpening the cutters, you may need to lower the depth gauges (also known as rakers). These are the small projections in front of each cutter that control how much wood the cutter can bite into. Use a flat file and a depth gauge tool to lower the depth gauges to the recommended height. If the depth gauges are too high, the chain will skip and chatter. If they are too low, the chain will be too aggressive and may kick back.

2.4 Maintaining Your Sharpening Tools

Keep your files clean and sharp. Use a file card or wire brush to remove any metal filings that accumulate on the file. Replace your files when they become dull. A dull file will only polish the cutters instead of sharpening them.

2.5 Real-World Example

I once worked on a project clearing brush from a heavily overgrown lot. The chain on my MS 170 was getting dull quickly due to the dirt and debris. I made it a habit to sharpen the chain every time I refueled the saw. This kept the chain cutting efficiently and allowed me to complete the project in half the time it would have taken with a dull chain.

3. Hack #2: Optimizing Chain Tension and Lubrication: Preventing Premature Wear

A properly tensioned and lubricated chain is crucial for maximizing cutting speed and extending the life of your Stihl MS 170. Neglecting these two factors can lead to premature wear, reduced performance, and even dangerous situations.

3.1 Chain Tension: Finding the Sweet Spot

Why Tension Matters: Proper chain tension ensures that the chain runs smoothly on the bar, minimizing friction and preventing it from derailing. A chain that’s too loose will vibrate and cut unevenly, while a chain that’s too tight will bind and overheat.
Checking Chain Tension: The ideal chain tension is when the chain can be pulled away from the bar by about 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch. The chain should also move freely around the bar without binding.
Adjusting Chain Tension: Most chainsaws have a tensioning screw located on the side of the bar. Loosen the bar nuts slightly, then turn the tensioning screw until the chain reaches the proper tension. Tighten the bar nuts securely.
Hot vs. Cold Tension: Chain tension changes as the chain heats up during use. Always check and adjust the chain tension after running the saw for a few minutes. A chain that’s properly tensioned when cold may become too tight when hot.
New Chain Stretch: New chains tend to stretch more than older chains. Check the tension frequently during the first few hours of use.

3.2 Chain Lubrication: Keeping Things Running Smoothly

Why Lubrication Matters: Chain oil reduces friction between the chain and the bar, preventing overheating and wear. A dry chain will quickly dull and overheat, significantly slowing down your cutting.
Choosing the Right Oil: Use a high-quality chain oil specifically designed for chainsaws. Avoid using motor oil or other lubricants, as they may not provide adequate protection. I prefer using a biodegradable chain oil, as it’s more environmentally friendly.
Checking Oil Level: Check the oil reservoir before each use and refill as needed. The oil level should always be above the minimum mark.
Oiler Function: Make sure the oiler is functioning properly. You should see a steady stream of oil coming from the bar when the saw is running. If the oiler is not working, check the oil filter and the oiler port for clogs.
Adjusting Oiler Output: Some chainsaws have an adjustable oiler that allows you to control the amount of oil delivered to the chain. Increase the oil output when cutting hardwoods or when using a longer bar.

3.3 Troubleshooting Tension and Lubrication Issues

Chain Keeps Loosening: This could be due to a worn bar, a stretched chain, or a faulty tensioning mechanism. Replace the bar or chain if necessary.
Chain Overheats: This is usually caused by insufficient lubrication or a chain that’s too tight. Check the oil level, the oiler function, and the chain tension.
Chain Derails: This can be caused by a loose chain, a worn bar, or a damaged chain. Check the chain tension and the condition of the bar and chain.

3.4 Case Study

A friend of mine was having trouble with his MS 170. The chain kept overheating and derailing. After inspecting the saw, I discovered that the oiler was clogged and the chain was too tight. I cleaned the oiler, adjusted the chain tension, and recommended that he replace the bar, which was worn. After these repairs, the saw ran smoothly and efficiently.

4. Hack #3: Refining Your Cutting Technique: Let the Saw Do the Work

Even with a sharp chain and proper tension, poor cutting technique can significantly slow you down and put unnecessary strain on the saw. Mastering the fundamentals of cutting technique will not only increase your cutting speed but also improve your safety and reduce fatigue.

4.1 The Importance of Proper Posture and Grip

Stance: Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart and your weight evenly distributed. This will give you a stable base and allow you to control the saw more effectively.
Grip: Grip the saw firmly with both hands. Your thumbs should be wrapped around the handles. This will give you maximum control and prevent the saw from kicking back.
Body Position: Keep your body to the side of the saw, not directly behind it. This will protect you from kickback.

4.2 Basic Cutting Techniques

Felling: When felling a tree, always plan your escape route and be aware of your surroundings. Make a notch cut on the side of the tree facing the direction you want it to fall. Then, make a back cut on the opposite side of the tree, leaving a hinge of wood to control the fall.
Limbing: When limbing, always cut from the top of the limb down to the trunk. This will prevent the limb from pinching the chain. Use the saw’s bumper spikes to pivot the saw and make controlled cuts.
Bucking: When bucking (cutting logs into shorter lengths), always support the log to prevent it from pinching the chain. Use a sawbuck or place the log on another log. Make sure the log is stable and won’t roll.

4.3 Advanced Cutting Techniques

Boring Cut: This technique involves plunging the tip of the bar into the wood to create a hole. It’s useful for removing knots or for making plunge cuts in thick logs. Use caution when making boring cuts, as they can increase the risk of kickback.
Pivoting: Use the saw’s bumper spikes to pivot the saw and make controlled cuts. This technique is especially useful for limbing and bucking.
Cutting with the Grain: Whenever possible, orient your cuts to take advantage of the grain direction. This will make cutting easier and reduce the risk of kickback.

4.4 Avoiding Common Mistakes

Pushing Too Hard: Let the saw do the work. Pushing too hard on the saw can bog down the engine and cause it to stall.
Cutting with the Tip of the Bar: The tip of the bar is the most dangerous part of the saw. Avoid cutting with the tip, as it can increase the risk of kickback.
Cutting Above Shoulder Height: Cutting above shoulder height is dangerous and tiring. Use a ladder or scaffolding to reach high limbs.
Ignoring Warning Signs: Pay attention to the saw’s behavior. If it’s bogging down, overheating, or vibrating excessively, stop cutting and troubleshoot the problem.

4.5 Story Time

I remember one time I was helping a friend cut firewood. He was using a large, powerful chainsaw, but he was struggling to cut through even small logs. I watched him for a few minutes and realized that he was pushing too hard on the saw and cutting with the tip of the bar. I showed him how to let the saw do the work and how to use the bumper spikes to pivot the saw. After a few minutes of practice, he was cutting through logs with ease.

5. Hack #4: Upgrading Your Bar and Chain: Enhancing Performance

While the Stihl MS 170 is a capable chainsaw, upgrading the bar and chain can significantly enhance its performance and cutting speed. This is especially true if you’re frequently cutting hardwoods or larger logs.

5.1 Choosing the Right Bar

Bar Length: As mentioned earlier, the MS 170 usually comes with a 14-inch or 16-inch bar. While a longer bar can reach larger logs, it also puts more strain on the engine. I generally recommend sticking with the 14-inch bar for optimal performance.
Bar Type: There are several types of chainsaw bars available, including:
- Standard Bar: This is the most common type of bar and is suitable for general-purpose cutting.
- Laminated Bar: These bars are made from multiple layers of steel and are more durable than standard bars.
- Solid Bar: These bars are made from a single piece of steel and are the most durable type of bar. However, they are also heavier and more expensive.
Bar Tip: The bar tip is the part of the bar that guides the chain. There are two main types of bar tips:
- Sprocket Tip: These tips have a sprocket that helps to reduce friction and improve chain speed.
- Hard Nose Tip: These tips are made from solid steel and are more durable than sprocket tips. However, they can also generate more friction.

5.2 Selecting the Right Chain

Chain Type: There are several types of chainsaw chains available, each designed for different cutting applications:
- Low-Kickback Chain: These chains have features that reduce the risk of kickback. They are a good choice for beginners or for those who are concerned about safety.
- Full-Chisel Chain: These chains have square-cornered cutters that are very aggressive and cut quickly. However, they are also more prone to kickback and require more skill to use. I use these on my larger saws, but only when doing milling.
- Semi-Chisel Chain: These chains have rounded cutters that are less aggressive than full-chisel chains but more durable. They are a good compromise between cutting speed and durability.
Chain Pitch: The chain pitch is the distance between the rivets on the chain. The MS 170 typically uses a 3/8″ low profile pitch chain.
Chain Gauge: The chain gauge is the thickness of the drive links on the chain. The MS 170 typically uses a .050″ gauge chain.
Number of Drive Links: The number of drive links is the number of links that fit into the bar’s groove. This number varies depending on the bar length.

5.3 Matching Bar and Chain

It’s crucial to match the bar and chain correctly to ensure proper performance and safety. Consult your chainsaw’s owner’s manual or a qualified chainsaw technician for recommendations.

5.4 Real-World Example

I upgraded the chain on my MS 170 from the standard low-kickback chain to a semi-chisel chain. The difference in cutting speed was noticeable, especially when cutting hardwoods. The semi-chisel chain bit into the wood more aggressively and allowed me to cut faster with less effort.

6. Hack #5: Optimizing Fuel and Air Intake: Unleashing Hidden Power

Even with a sharp chain, proper tension, and good cutting technique, your Stihl MS 170 may still be underperforming if the fuel and air intake systems are not optimized. Ensuring that the engine receives the correct mixture of fuel and air is crucial for maximizing power and efficiency.

6.1 Fuel Quality and Mixture

Fuel Type: Use high-quality gasoline with an octane rating of 89 or higher. Avoid using gasoline that contains ethanol, as it can damage the engine.
Fuel Mixture: The MS 170 requires a fuel mixture of 50:1 (50 parts gasoline to 1 part two-stroke oil). Use a high-quality two-stroke oil specifically designed for chainsaws.
Mixing Fuel: Mix the fuel and oil thoroughly in a separate container before adding it to the chainsaw’s fuel tank. Use a fuel stabilizer to prevent the fuel from going stale.
Fuel Storage: Store fuel in a clean, airtight container in a cool, dry place. Avoid storing fuel for more than 30 days, as it can degrade and lose its octane rating.

6.2 Air Filter Maintenance

Air Filter Function: The air filter prevents dirt and debris from entering the engine. A dirty air filter can restrict airflow, reducing engine power and fuel efficiency.
Cleaning the Air Filter: Clean the air filter regularly, especially when cutting in dusty conditions. Remove the air filter and tap it gently to remove loose dirt and debris. You can also wash the air filter with soap and water, but make sure it’s completely dry before reinstalling it.
Replacing the Air Filter: Replace the air filter when it becomes excessively dirty or damaged. A clogged air filter can cause the engine to overheat and stall.

6.3 Spark Plug Inspection and Maintenance

Spark Plug Function: The spark plug ignites the fuel-air mixture in the engine. A fouled or worn spark plug can cause the engine to run poorly or not start at all.
Inspecting the Spark Plug: Remove the spark plug and inspect it for signs of wear or fouling. The spark plug should be clean and dry, with a light tan color.
Cleaning the Spark Plug: Clean the spark plug with a wire brush or spark plug cleaner.
Replacing the Spark Plug: Replace the spark plug when it becomes excessively worn or fouled. Consult your chainsaw’s owner’s manual for the correct spark plug type and gap.

6.4 Carburetor Adjustment (Use Caution!)

Carburetor Function: The carburetor regulates the amount of fuel and air that enters the engine. Adjusting the carburetor can improve engine performance and fuel efficiency.
Carburetor Adjustment Screws: The carburetor has three adjustment screws:
- Low-Speed Screw (L): This screw controls the fuel mixture at low speeds.
- High-Speed Screw (H): This screw controls the fuel mixture at high speeds.
- Idle Speed Screw (T): This screw controls the engine’s idle speed.
Adjusting the Carburetor: Carburetor adjustment is a delicate process that should only be performed by experienced users or qualified technicians. Incorrect adjustment can damage the engine. Consult your chainsaw’s owner’s manual or a qualified technician for instructions.

6.5 Personal Experience

I once had a Stihl MS 170 that was running poorly. It was hard to start, and it would stall frequently. After checking the fuel, air filter, and spark plug, I discovered that the carburetor was out of adjustment. I carefully adjusted the carburetor according to the instructions in the owner’s manual, and the saw ran like new.

Conclusion: Unleash the Potential of Your Stihl 170

The Stihl MS 170 is a fantastic chainsaw for light to medium-duty tasks. By mastering these five pro hacks, you can unlock its full potential and achieve faster, more efficient woodcutting. Remember, a sharp chain, proper tension and lubrication, good cutting technique, and optimized fuel and air intake are the keys to success.

Sharpen your chain regularly: A dull chain is the enemy of efficient cutting.
Maintain proper chain tension and lubrication: This will prevent premature wear and improve performance.
Refine your cutting technique: Let the saw do the work, and avoid common mistakes.
Consider upgrading your bar and chain: This can significantly enhance performance.
Optimize fuel and air intake: Ensure that the engine receives the correct mixture of fuel and air.

With a little practice and attention to detail, you can transform your Stihl MS 170 into a woodcutting powerhouse. Now get out there and start cutting! And always remember to prioritize safety. Wear appropriate safety gear, and be aware of your surroundings. Happy cutting!