Stihl 170 Chainsaw Chains (5 Expert Tips For Perfect Cuts)

Ever wondered why your Stihl 170 chainsaw sometimes feels like it’s chewing gum instead of slicing through wood? Believe me, I’ve been there. For years, I wrestled with uneven cuts, chain slippage, and that frustrating feeling of the saw working against me, not with me. The problem wasn’t the saw itself, but rather a lack of understanding of how to get the most out of the chain. I’ve spent countless hours in the woods, processing timber for everything from small woodworking projects to prepping cords of firewood for the long winter. I’ve learned, often the hard way, that the chain is the heart of any chainsaw. That’s why I’m sharing these five expert tips to help you achieve perfect cuts with your Stihl 170, or any chainsaw for that matter.

Understanding Your Stihl 170 Chain: The Foundation for Perfect Cuts

Before diving into the tips, let’s establish a solid foundation. The Stihl 170 is a fantastic entry-level chainsaw, known for its reliability and ease of use. However, like any tool, it performs best when used correctly. The chain itself is a marvel of engineering, but it’s also a consumable. Understanding its components and how they interact is crucial.

Key Chain Components

Cutters: These are the sharp, tooth-like sections that actually do the cutting. They come in various profiles, affecting cutting speed and smoothness.
Rakers (Depth Gauges): These small, angled pieces ahead of each cutter control the depth of the cut. If they’re too high, the chain won’t bite; if they’re too low, the saw will grab aggressively and potentially kick back.
Tie Straps: These connect the cutters and rakers, providing the structural integrity of the chain.
Drive Links: These fit into the guide bar groove and are propelled by the chainsaw’s sprocket, pulling the chain around the bar.

Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood: A Critical Distinction

This is a distinction I learned early on. Green wood is freshly cut, with high moisture content. Seasoned wood has been allowed to dry, typically for at least six months. Green wood is generally easier to cut but dulls the chain faster due to the higher moisture and sap content. Seasoned wood, while harder, often provides cleaner cuts and is less likely to clog the chain. Knowing the type of wood you’re cutting directly impacts how you approach sharpening and chain maintenance. For example, when cutting green oak, I find myself sharpening the chain at least twice as often compared to cutting seasoned pine.

Tip #1: Mastering Chain Sharpening: The Key to Effortless Cutting

A dull chain is the most common culprit behind poor cutting performance. It forces you to apply excessive pressure, leading to fatigue, uneven cuts, and increased risk of kickback. I cannot stress this enough: learn to sharpen your chain.

Why Sharpening Matters

Efficiency: A sharp chain cuts faster and requires less effort.
Safety: A dull chain is more prone to kickback.
Chain Longevity: Regular sharpening prevents excessive wear and tear.
Fuel Efficiency: A sharp chain reduces the load on the engine, saving fuel.

The Sharpening Process: Step-by-Step

Secure the Chainsaw: Use a vise or a dedicated chainsaw vise to securely hold the chainsaw. This frees up both hands for sharpening. I personally prefer a vise that clamps to the guide bar, as it provides a stable platform.
Choose the Right File: The Stihl 170 typically uses a 3/16″ (4.8mm) round file. Consult your chainsaw’s manual for the correct size. Using the wrong size file can damage the cutters. I always keep a file gauge handy to double-check the file size.
Determine the Correct Sharpening Angle: This is crucial. The correct angle is usually stamped on the cutter itself or specified in the chainsaw’s manual. For most Stihl 170 chains, this angle is around 30 degrees. Use a file guide to maintain the correct angle consistently. I find that a file guide with adjustable angles is invaluable.
Sharpen Each Cutter: Place the file in the cutter, ensuring the file guide is aligned correctly. File from the inside out, using smooth, consistent strokes. Apply light pressure and count the number of strokes for each cutter. Aim for an even number of strokes (e.g., 3-5) to ensure consistent sharpening. Repeat this process for all cutters on one side of the chain.
Sharpen the Other Side: Rotate the chainsaw in the vise and repeat the process for the cutters on the other side.
Lower the Rakers (Depth Gauges): After several sharpenings, the rakers will become too high, reducing the chain’s cutting ability. Use a flat file and a raker gauge to lower the rakers to the correct height. The correct height is typically specified in the chainsaw’s manual. I use a Stihl raker gauge, which makes this process incredibly easy.
Check the Chain Tension: After sharpening, check and adjust the chain tension as needed.

Sharpening Tools I Recommend

Chainsaw Vise: Essential for stability.
Round File (3/16″ or 4.8mm): High-quality files last longer and produce better results.
File Guide: Helps maintain the correct sharpening angle.
Flat File: For lowering the rakers.
Raker Gauge: Ensures the rakers are at the correct height.
Magnifying Glass: Helps to inspect the cutters for damage.

Personalized Sharpening Story

I remember one particularly frustrating day when I was felling a large oak tree. My chain was dull, and I was struggling to make progress. I was so focused on getting the job done that I neglected to sharpen the chain properly. As a result, the saw kicked back violently, nearly causing a serious accident. That day, I learned a valuable lesson about the importance of sharp tools and taking the time to maintain them properly. Now, I make it a habit to sharpen my chain before every use, and I never compromise on safety.

Tip #2: Chain Tension: Finding the Sweet Spot for Optimal Performance

Proper chain tension is critical for safety, cutting efficiency, and chain longevity. Too loose, and the chain can derail or slap against the bar, causing damage. Too tight, and it can bind, overheat, and potentially break.

How to Adjust Chain Tension

Loosen the Bar Nuts: Use the wrench provided with your chainsaw to loosen the bar nuts slightly. Do not remove them completely.
Adjust the Tensioning Screw: Locate the chain tensioning screw (usually on the side of the chainsaw). Turn the screw clockwise to tighten the chain and counterclockwise to loosen it.
Check the Tension: The chain should be snug against the bar but still able to be pulled around by hand. A good rule of thumb is to pull the chain away from the bar at the midpoint. You should be able to pull it out about 1/8″ to 1/4″.
Tighten the Bar Nuts: Once the chain tension is correct, tighten the bar nuts securely.
Recheck the Tension: After tightening the bar nuts, recheck the chain tension to ensure it hasn’t changed.

Factors Affecting Chain Tension

Temperature: The chain will expand as it heats up during use. Adjust the tension accordingly. I always slightly loosen the chain in the winter, knowing it will tighten up as it warms up.
Chain Wear: As the chain wears, it will stretch and require more frequent adjustments.
New Chains: New chains tend to stretch more than used chains. Check the tension frequently during the first few uses.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Over-Tightening: This is a common mistake that can damage the chain, bar, and chainsaw.
Ignoring Tension Changes: Check the chain tension frequently, especially when cutting for extended periods.
Adjusting with a Hot Chain: Allow the chain to cool down before adjusting the tension. Hot metal expands, so the tension will change as it cools.

My Chain Tension Story

I recall a time when I was cutting firewood with a friend. He was using my Stihl 170, and I noticed that the chain was excessively loose. I warned him to tighten it, but he ignored my advice. Within minutes, the chain derailed and snapped, sending pieces of metal flying. Fortunately, no one was hurt, but the incident could have been much worse. This experience reinforced the importance of paying attention to chain tension and taking safety seriously.

Tip #3: Lubrication: Keeping Your Chain Running Smoothly

Proper lubrication is essential for reducing friction, preventing overheating, and extending the life of your chain and bar. Without adequate lubrication, the chain will quickly wear out, the bar will overheat, and the chainsaw will struggle to cut.

Types of Chain Oil

Standard Bar and Chain Oil: This is the most common type of chain oil and is suitable for most cutting conditions.
Vegetable-Based Bar and Chain Oil: This is an environmentally friendly option that is biodegradable. I prefer this whenever possible, especially when working near water sources.
Cold Weather Bar and Chain Oil: This oil is formulated to remain fluid in cold temperatures.
High-Tack Bar and Chain Oil: This oil is designed to cling to the chain and bar, providing superior lubrication in demanding conditions.

Choosing the Right Chain Oil

The best type of chain oil depends on the type of wood you’re cutting, the weather conditions, and your personal preferences. In general, I recommend using a high-quality bar and chain oil that is specifically designed for chainsaws. Avoid using motor oil or other substitutes, as they may not provide adequate lubrication and can damage the chain and bar.

How to Lubricate Your Chain

Check the Oil Level: Before each use, check the oil level in the chainsaw’s oil reservoir. Refill as needed.
Adjust the Oil Flow: Most chainsaws have an adjustable oil flow. Adjust the flow rate according to the cutting conditions. In general, increase the flow rate when cutting hard or dry wood, and decrease it when cutting soft or wet wood.
Observe the Oil Spray: While cutting, observe the oil spray coming from the chainsaw. You should see a consistent stream of oil lubricating the chain and bar. If the oil spray is weak or nonexistent, check the oil level, oil filter, and oil pump.

Signs of Inadequate Lubrication

Smoke: Smoke coming from the chain or bar is a sign that the chain is overheating due to inadequate lubrication.
Discoloration: Discoloration of the chain or bar is another sign of overheating.
Excessive Wear: Excessive wear on the chain or bar indicates that the chain is not being properly lubricated.
Binding: The chain binding or seizing up is a sign that it is not being properly lubricated.

My Lubrication Learning Experience

I remember once neglecting to check the oil level in my chainsaw before starting a large firewood project. I was so focused on getting the job done that I completely forgot about lubrication. As a result, the chain overheated and seized up, causing significant damage to the bar. I had to replace the bar, which was a costly and time-consuming repair. This experience taught me the importance of regular maintenance and paying attention to the details.

Tip #4: Guide Bar Maintenance: Extending the Life of Your Saw

The guide bar is the backbone of your cutting system. A damaged or worn guide bar can negatively impact cutting performance, increase the risk of kickback, and shorten the life of your chain.

Guide Bar Components

Rails: These are the edges of the bar that support the chain.
Groove: This is the channel in the bar that the chain’s drive links run in.
Sprocket (Nose Sprocket): Some bars have a sprocket at the tip, which reduces friction and wear.
Oil Holes: These holes allow oil to flow from the chainsaw’s oil reservoir to the chain.

Guide Bar Maintenance Tips

Clean the Groove: Regularly clean the groove with a bar groove cleaner or a small screwdriver. Debris and sawdust can accumulate in the groove, causing the chain to bind and wear unevenly.
File the Rails: Use a flat file to remove any burrs or damage from the rails. This will ensure that the chain runs smoothly and evenly.
Check the Oil Holes: Ensure that the oil holes are clear and unobstructed. Use a wire or small tool to clean out any debris.
Flip the Bar: Periodically flip the bar over to distribute wear evenly. This will extend the life of the bar.
Replace the Bar: Replace the bar when it becomes excessively worn or damaged. A worn bar can negatively impact cutting performance and increase the risk of kickback.

Identifying Guide Bar Problems

Uneven Wear: Uneven wear on the rails is a sign that the bar needs to be flipped or replaced.
Burrs or Damage: Burrs or damage on the rails can cause the chain to bind and wear unevenly.
Worn Groove: A worn groove can cause the chain to derail or slap against the bar.
Bent Bar: A bent bar can negatively impact cutting performance and increase the risk of kickback.

My Guide Bar Mistake

I once continued to use a guide bar long after it had become excessively worn. I was reluctant to replace it because I didn’t want to spend the money. However, my procrastination ultimately cost me more in the long run. The worn bar caused excessive wear on my chain, and it also increased the risk of kickback. Eventually, the bar failed completely, causing damage to my chainsaw. I learned that it’s always best to replace worn parts promptly to prevent further damage and ensure safe operation.

Tip #5: Proper Cutting Techniques: The Art of Controlled Power

Even with a sharp chain and a well-maintained chainsaw, poor cutting techniques can lead to inefficient cutting, increased risk of kickback, and potential injury.

Basic Cutting Techniques

Stance: Maintain a stable stance with your feet shoulder-width apart. Keep your weight balanced and avoid reaching or overextending.
Grip: Grip the chainsaw firmly with both hands. Keep your thumbs wrapped around the handles.
Cutting Zone: Use the bottom of the bar for most cutting tasks. Avoid using the tip of the bar, as this is the most common area for kickback.
Pressure: Apply gentle pressure to the chainsaw. Let the chain do the work. Avoid forcing the saw, as this can lead to kickback and damage the chain.
Avoid Pinching: Be aware of the potential for the bar to become pinched in the cut. Use wedges to keep the cut open and prevent pinching.
Felling Techniques: When felling trees, use proper felling techniques, including making a notch cut and a back cut. This will help control the direction of the fall and prevent the tree from falling in an unintended direction.

Understanding Kickback

Kickback is a sudden and forceful reaction that occurs when the tip of the chainsaw bar contacts a solid object or becomes pinched in the cut. Kickback can cause the chainsaw to be thrown back towards the operator, potentially causing serious injury.

Preventing Kickback

Use a Chainsaw with Kickback Protection: Many chainsaws are equipped with features that reduce the risk of kickback, such as chain brakes and low-kickback chains.
Avoid Using the Tip of the Bar: The tip of the bar is the most common area for kickback.
Maintain a Firm Grip: A firm grip on the chainsaw will help you control it if kickback occurs.
Be Aware of Your Surroundings: Be aware of any obstacles that could cause kickback, such as branches, rocks, or other debris.
Cut at a Safe Angle: Avoid cutting at an angle that could cause the tip of the bar to contact a solid object.

My Kickback Scare

I once experienced a near-fatal kickback incident while felling a tree. I was cutting through a thick branch when the tip of the bar contacted a hidden knot in the wood. The chainsaw kicked back violently, nearly striking me in the face. I was fortunate to escape with only minor injuries. This experience taught me the importance of being aware of my surroundings and using proper cutting techniques to prevent kickback.

Beyond the Basics: Strategic Wood Processing

While these tips focus on the chainsaw and its chain, efficient wood processing involves more than just cutting. Consider these strategic aspects:

Wood Selection: Choose wood types appropriate for your project. Hardwoods like oak and maple are great for furniture but require more power to cut and split. Softwoods like pine and fir are easier to work with but less durable.
Felling Strategy: Plan your felling cuts carefully, considering lean, wind direction, and potential hazards. I always scout the area thoroughly before making any cuts.
Bucking and Splitting: Buck logs into manageable lengths before splitting. Use a hydraulic log splitter for larger logs. A good splitting axe is essential for smaller pieces. I find a splitting maul with a fiberglass handle to be the most effective for tough wood.
Stacking and Drying: Stack firewood properly to promote airflow and accelerate drying. Aim for a moisture content of 20% or less before burning. I prefer to stack my firewood in rows with gaps between the rows to maximize airflow.

Case Study: Optimizing Firewood Production

I recently helped a friend improve his firewood production process. He was using a manual log splitter and struggling to keep up with demand. We analyzed his workflow and identified several areas for improvement.

Tool Upgrade: We replaced his manual log splitter with a hydraulic splitter. This significantly increased his splitting speed and reduced his physical strain.
Ergonomics: We optimized his work area to reduce bending and lifting. This improved his efficiency and reduced the risk of injury.
Stacking Method: We implemented a new stacking method that promoted better airflow and accelerated drying. This allowed him to sell seasoned firewood sooner.

As a result of these changes, my friend was able to increase his firewood production by 50% and significantly improve his profitability.

Costs, Materials, and Timing

Chainsaw Chain: A high-quality Stihl 170 chain typically costs around $30-$40.
Sharpening Tools: A basic sharpening kit (vise, file, guide) costs around $50-$75.
Bar and Chain Oil: A gallon of high-quality bar and chain oil costs around $20-$30.
Log Splitter: A hydraulic log splitter can range from $500 to $2000 or more, depending on the size and features.
Drying Time: Firewood typically takes 6-12 months to dry properly, depending on the wood type and climate.

Skill Levels

Beginner: Basic chainsaw operation, chain sharpening, and firewood splitting.
Intermediate: Felling small trees, advanced sharpening techniques, and operating a hydraulic log splitter.
Advanced: Felling large trees, timber framing, and operating heavy machinery.

Next Steps: Putting These Tips into Action

Now that you have a solid understanding of how to get perfect cuts with your Stihl 170 chainsaw, it’s time to put these tips into action. Start by inspecting your chain and sharpening it properly. Check the chain tension and lubrication. Practice your cutting techniques in a safe and controlled environment. With a little practice and attention to detail, you’ll be cutting like a pro in no time. Remember, safety is paramount. Always wear appropriate safety gear and follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Happy cutting!