Stihl 170 Bar and Chain Guide (5 Pro Tips for Faster Cutting)

As someone deeply immersed in the world of wood processing, logging, and firewood preparation, I understand the importance of having the right tools and knowledge. One chainsaw that consistently proves its worth for both beginners and seasoned users is the Stihl MS 170. It’s a lightweight, easy-to-maintain workhorse. In this guide, I’ll share five pro tips to help you achieve faster and more efficient cutting with your Stihl MS 170, focusing on the bar and chain setup. The aim is for ease of maintenance.

Stihl 170 Bar and Chain Guide: 5 Pro Tips for Faster Cutting

The Stihl MS 170 is renowned for its user-friendliness and reliability. But even the best tools benefit from optimization. These tips focus on the bar and chain, the heart of any chainsaw, to unlock the MS 170’s full potential for faster, cleaner cuts. I will focus on how ease of maintenance can benefit you.

Tip 1: Choosing the Right Chain for the Job

The chain is arguably the most crucial component influencing cutting speed. The Stihl MS 170 typically comes with a standard chain suitable for general-purpose cutting. However, different chain types are designed for specific tasks.

• Understanding Chain Types: The most common types you’ll encounter are:
  • Low-Profile Chains: These are standard on the MS 170 and are great for beginners due to their reduced kickback risk. They’re ideal for limbing, small tree felling, and general firewood cutting.
  • Semi-Chisel Chains: These offer a good balance of cutting speed and durability. They’re more aggressive than low-profile chains and can handle slightly dirtier wood.
  • Full-Chisel Chains: These are the fastest-cutting chains but require more skill to use. They are more prone to kickback and dull quickly if used on dirty wood. I wouldn’t recommend these for the MS 170 unless you’re highly experienced and working with very clean wood.
• Matching the Chain to the Wood:
  • Softwoods (Pine, Fir, Spruce): Low-profile or semi-chisel chains work well. The softer wood allows for easier cutting, and you don’t need the aggressive bite of a full-chisel chain.
  • Hardwoods (Oak, Maple, Ash): Semi-chisel chains are generally the best choice. They can handle the density and hardness of hardwoods without dulling too quickly.
  • Dirty or Abrasive Wood: Stick with a low-profile or semi-chisel chain. The rounded cutters are more resistant to dulling from dirt and debris.
• Chain Pitch and Gauge: This is crucial for compatibility. The Stihl MS 170 typically uses a 3/8″ low-profile pitch chain with a .050″ gauge. Always check your chainsaw’s manual to confirm the correct specifications. Using the wrong pitch or gauge can damage your chainsaw.
• Personal Experience: I once tried using a full-chisel chain on my MS 170 while cutting some oak firewood. While it cut incredibly fast initially, the chain dulled within an hour due to the hardness of the wood. Switching back to a semi-chisel chain, I found a better balance of speed and longevity.

Ease of Maintenance Tip: Regardless of the chain type, invest in a good quality chain sharpener. A dull chain not only cuts slower but also puts more strain on the chainsaw engine and increases the risk of kickback. I recommend using a file guide to ensure consistent sharpening angles. Regular sharpening after every few tanks of gas will significantly improve cutting performance and extend the life of your chain.

Tip 2: Bar Maintenance: Keeping it Straight and True

The chainsaw bar is the foundation for smooth and efficient cutting. A damaged or worn bar will hinder performance, regardless of how sharp your chain is.

• Bar Inspection: Regularly inspect your bar for the following:
  • Wear: Check the rails (the edges that guide the chain) for wear. Uneven wear can cause the chain to bind and cut crookedly.
  • Burrs: Remove any burrs or sharp edges on the rails with a flat file.
  • Damage: Look for bends, cracks, or other damage. A severely damaged bar should be replaced.
  • Cleanliness: Keep the bar groove clean. Sawdust and debris buildup can restrict chain movement and cause overheating.
• Bar Dressing: This involves filing the rails to ensure they are square and even. A bar dressing tool or a flat file can be used.
  • Technique: Clamp the bar securely in a vise. Using the file, carefully remove any burrs or unevenness from the rails. The goal is to create a smooth, flat surface for the chain to ride on.
• Bar Rotation: Regularly rotating the bar (flipping it over) will help distribute wear evenly. This extends the life of the bar and ensures consistent cutting performance. I recommend rotating the bar every time you sharpen the chain.
• Lubrication: Proper bar and chain oil is essential. Use a high-quality oil specifically designed for chainsaws. Check the oil level frequently and refill as needed. Insufficient lubrication will cause excessive wear on the bar and chain.
• Bar Length: While the MS 170 can technically accommodate slightly longer bars, I recommend sticking with the standard 16-inch bar for optimal performance. A longer bar puts more strain on the engine, especially when cutting hardwoods.
• Personal Experience: I once neglected to rotate my chainsaw bar for an extended period. As a result, one side of the bar wore down significantly more than the other, causing the chain to cut at an angle. I had to replace the bar prematurely, a lesson learned about the importance of regular maintenance.

Ease of Maintenance Tip: Cleaning the bar groove is crucial for smooth chain operation. I use a small screwdriver or a specialized bar groove cleaner to remove accumulated sawdust and debris. Doing this regularly, especially after cutting resinous wood, will prevent the chain from binding and improve cutting efficiency. I also recommend cleaning the oiler hole on the bar to ensure proper lubrication.

Tip 3: Chain Tension: Striking the Right Balance

Proper chain tension is critical for safety and cutting performance. Too loose, and the chain can derail or cause excessive vibration. Too tight, and it can bind, overheat, and damage the bar and engine.

• Checking Chain Tension:
  • Cold Check: With the engine off and the chainsaw cool, lift the chain in the middle of the bar. The drive links (the parts of the chain that fit into the bar groove) should be snug against the bar. You should be able to pull the chain out slightly, but not so much that the drive links completely disengage from the bar.
  • Hot Check: After making a few cuts, recheck the chain tension. The chain will expand as it heats up. Adjust the tension so that the chain is still snug but not overly tight.
• Adjusting Chain Tension: The Stihl MS 170 has a side-mounted chain tensioner.
  • Loosen the bar nuts: Use the wrench provided with your chainsaw to loosen the bar nuts slightly.
  • Adjust the tensioner screw: Turn the tensioner screw clockwise to tighten the chain and counterclockwise to loosen it.
  • Tighten the bar nuts: Once the chain is at the correct tension, tighten the bar nuts securely.
• New Chain Break-In: When installing a new chain, run the chainsaw at idle speed for a few minutes to allow the chain to stretch. Then, recheck and adjust the tension. New chains tend to stretch more initially.
• Signs of Incorrect Tension:
  • Chain Derailment: If the chain frequently comes off the bar, it’s likely too loose.
  • Excessive Vibration: This can indicate either a loose or overly tight chain.
  • Smoke from the Bar: This is a sign of overheating, usually caused by a chain that is too tight or insufficient lubrication.
• Personal Experience: I once had a chain derail while cutting a large log because I hadn’t properly tensioned it after installing it. It was a dangerous situation, and it underscored the importance of always checking chain tension before starting any cutting task.

Ease of Maintenance Tip: I recommend keeping a small screwdriver or multi-tool with a screwdriver bit in your chainsaw kit. This allows you to quickly adjust chain tension in the field without having to return to your workshop. Regular tension checks and adjustments are essential for safe and efficient operation.

Tip 4: Sharpening Technique: Maintaining a Razor-Sharp Edge

A sharp chain is essential for fast cutting and safe operation. A dull chain requires more force to cut, increasing the risk of kickback and putting more strain on the chainsaw engine.

• Sharpening Frequency: Sharpen your chain after every few tanks of gas, or whenever you notice a decrease in cutting performance. Cutting dirty wood will dull the chain faster.
• Tools for Sharpening:
  • Round File and File Guide: This is the most common method. Use a round file of the correct diameter for your chain (typically 5/32″ for the MS 170). A file guide helps maintain the correct sharpening angle and depth.
  • Electric Chain Sharpener: This is a faster and more precise method, but it requires more investment.
• Sharpening Procedure:
  • Secure the Chain: Use a vise or a specialized chain vise to hold the chain securely.
  • File Angle: The correct filing angle is typically marked on the file guide. For the Stihl MS 170 chain, it’s usually around 30 degrees.
  • Filing Technique: File each cutter from the inside out, using smooth, consistent strokes. Apply light pressure and avoid overheating the cutter.
  • Consistency: Ensure that all cutters are sharpened to the same length and angle. This is crucial for smooth cutting.
  • Depth Gauges: Check the depth gauges (the small metal tabs in front of each cutter) regularly. If they are too high, the chain will not cut effectively. Use a flat file and a depth gauge tool to file them down to the correct height.
• Signs of a Dull Chain:
  • Fine Sawdust: A sharp chain produces coarse chips, while a dull chain produces fine sawdust.
  • Excessive Force: You have to apply more pressure to make the chain cut.
  • Chain Pulling: The chain pulls to one side while cutting.
  • Smoking: Excessive friction can cause the chain to smoke.
• Personal Experience: I used to rely solely on electric chain sharpeners, but I found that they can sometimes remove too much material and shorten the life of the chain. I now prefer using a round file and file guide for more precise and controlled sharpening.

Ease of Maintenance Tip: I always keep a small sharpening kit in my chainsaw case, including a round file, file guide, depth gauge tool, and a small vise. This allows me to sharpen the chain in the field whenever necessary. A sharp chain is not only faster but also safer, as it reduces the risk of kickback and allows for more controlled cutting.

Tip 5: Proper Cutting Technique: Let the Saw Do the Work

Even with a perfectly sharpened chain and a well-maintained bar, incorrect cutting technique can significantly reduce cutting speed and increase the risk of accidents.

• Let the Saw Do the Work: Avoid forcing the chainsaw through the wood. Let the weight of the saw and the sharpness of the chain do the work. Applying excessive pressure can stall the engine, damage the chain, and increase the risk of kickback.
• Maintain a Stable Stance: Keep your feet firmly planted and maintain a balanced stance. Avoid overreaching or cutting in awkward positions.
• Use the Correct Part of the Bar: The lower part of the bar is generally used for felling and bucking, while the upper part is used for limbing. Be aware of the kickback zone (the upper quadrant of the bar tip) and avoid using it whenever possible.
• Cutting Techniques:
  • Felling: When felling a tree, use a combination of notch cuts and back cuts to control the direction of the fall.
  • Bucking: When cutting logs into shorter lengths, use proper bucking techniques to avoid pinching the bar.
  • Limbing: When limbing, work from the base of the tree towards the top, cutting the branches close to the trunk.
• Avoid Pinching: Pinching occurs when the weight of the wood closes the cut, trapping the bar. To avoid pinching, use wedges to keep the cut open or cut from the opposite side.
• Cutting Green Wood vs. Seasoned Wood:
  • Green Wood: Wood that has recently been cut is considered green wood. It has a high moisture content and is more difficult to cut than seasoned wood. Green wood also tends to bind the chain more easily.
  • Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been allowed to dry for several months is considered seasoned wood. It has a lower moisture content and is easier to cut. Seasoned wood is also less likely to bind the chain.
• Personal Experience: I once tried to fell a small tree without using proper felling techniques. As a result, the tree fell in an unexpected direction, narrowly missing my truck. This experience taught me the importance of always using proper cutting techniques and being aware of my surroundings.

Ease of Maintenance Tip: After each cutting session, I always take a few minutes to clean the chainsaw thoroughly. I remove any sawdust and debris from the engine, bar, and chain. I also check the air filter and clean or replace it as needed. Regular cleaning helps prevent overheating and extends the life of the chainsaw. I also check the spark plug annually and replace it every other year.

Additional Considerations for Stihl MS 170 Maintenance and Performance

Beyond the five core tips, several other factors can impact the performance and longevity of your Stihl MS 170.

Fuel and Oil: The Lifeblood of Your Chainsaw

• Fuel Mixture: The Stihl MS 170 requires a specific fuel mixture of gasoline and 2-cycle oil. Always use the correct ratio (typically 50:1) and use high-quality 2-cycle oil. Using the wrong fuel mixture can damage the engine.
• Fuel Storage: Store fuel in a clean, airtight container. Old or contaminated fuel can cause engine problems. I recommend using fuel stabilizer if you plan to store fuel for an extended period.
• Bar and Chain Oil: As mentioned earlier, use a high-quality bar and chain oil specifically designed for chainsaws. Avoid using motor oil or other substitutes, as they may not provide adequate lubrication.
• Oil Consumption: Monitor the oil level in the reservoir and refill as needed. The chain should be adequately lubricated during cutting.

Air Filter Maintenance: Breathing Easy for Optimal Performance

• Cleaning Frequency: Clean the air filter regularly, especially when cutting in dusty conditions. A clogged air filter restricts airflow, reducing engine power and increasing fuel consumption.
• Cleaning Procedure: Remove the air filter and tap it gently to remove loose debris. You can also wash it with warm, soapy water. Allow the filter to dry completely before reinstalling it.
• Replacement: Replace the air filter if it is damaged or excessively dirty.

Spark Plug: Igniting the Power

• Inspection: Inspect the spark plug annually. Look for signs of wear, damage, or carbon buildup.
• Cleaning: Clean the spark plug with a wire brush to remove carbon buildup.
• Replacement: Replace the spark plug every other year, or sooner if it is damaged or worn.

Carburetor Adjustment: Fine-Tuning for Peak Performance

• Idle Speed: The idle speed should be set so that the chain does not move when the engine is idling.
• High-Speed Adjustment: Adjusting the high-speed setting is best left to a qualified technician. Incorrect adjustment can damage the engine.
• Altitude Adjustments: If you are using the chainsaw at a significantly different altitude than where it was originally tuned, you may need to adjust the carburetor.

Storage: Protecting Your Investment

• Cleaning: Before storing the chainsaw, clean it thoroughly. Remove any sawdust and debris from the engine, bar, and chain.
• Fuel: Drain the fuel tank or add fuel stabilizer.
• Bar and Chain: Remove the bar and chain and clean them. Lightly oil the bar and chain to prevent rust.
• Location: Store the chainsaw in a dry, protected location.

Case Study: Optimizing Firewood Production with the Stihl MS 170

I once worked on a project where we needed to produce a large quantity of firewood using only Stihl MS 170 chainsaws. We faced several challenges, including limited manpower, a tight deadline, and a variety of wood types (both softwoods and hardwoods).

1. Assess Your Needs: Determine the types of wood you’ll be cutting and the tasks you’ll be performing. This will help you choose the right chain and bar setup.
2. Invest in Quality Tools: Purchase a high-quality chain, bar, file guide, and other essential maintenance tools.
3. Learn Proper Techniques: Study the techniques outlined in this guide and practice them until you feel comfortable.
4. Establish a Maintenance Schedule: Create a regular maintenance schedule for your chainsaw, including cleaning, sharpening, and bar dressing.
5. Prioritize Safety: Always wear appropriate PPE and follow safe cutting practices.
6. Start Small: Begin with small projects and gradually increase the difficulty as you gain experience.
7. Seek Expert Advice: If you’re unsure about any aspect of chainsaw maintenance or operation, seek advice from a qualified technician.

By following these steps, you can unlock the full potential of your Stihl MS 170 and achieve faster, safer, and more efficient cutting. Remember, regular maintenance and proper technique are key to maximizing the performance and longevity of your chainsaw.

Conclusion

The Stihl MS 170 is a fantastic chainsaw for a wide range of tasks. By focusing on the bar and chain, and implementing these five pro tips, you can significantly improve its cutting speed and overall performance. Remember to prioritize safety, maintain your equipment regularly, and always let the saw do the work. With a little practice and attention to detail, you’ll be cutting through wood like a pro in no time. The ease of maintenance allows you to focus on the task at hand.

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