Stihl 056AV Chainsaw Review (5 Pro Tips for Heavy-Duty Wood)

The crisp scent of pine hangs heavy in the air, mingling with the faint aroma of two-stroke engine oil. It’s a smell I’ve known since I was a boy, tagging along with my grandfather in the woods. He was a lumberjack, a man who could fell a tree with the grace of a dancer and split firewood with the force of a sledgehammer. His weapon of choice, more often than not, was a Stihl chainsaw – a brand he swore by. And among his collection, the Stihl 056AV held a special place. It was a beast, a powerhouse, designed for the kind of heavy-duty work that would make lesser chainsaws shudder. Now, years later, I find myself reaching for a similar machine when the big jobs call.

This review isn’t just about the Stihl 056AV; it’s about understanding what makes a chainsaw a true workhorse, and how to wield that power safely and effectively when tackling heavy-duty wood processing. I’ve spent countless hours felling trees, bucking logs, and preparing firewood, and I’ve learned a thing or two about how to get the most out of a chainsaw like the 056AV. I’ll share my experiences, insights, and, most importantly, some pro tips that will help you conquer even the toughest timber. Whether you’re a seasoned logger or a weekend warrior preparing for winter, this guide will provide you with the knowledge you need to handle heavy-duty wood with confidence.

Stihl 056AV Chainsaw Review (5 Pro Tips for Heavy-Duty Wood)

The Stihl 056AV. Just the name evokes images of rugged landscapes and the satisfying roar of a powerful engine. While no longer in production, this vintage chainsaw remains a favorite among many who appreciate its robust construction and sheer cutting power. If you’re lucky enough to own one, or are considering purchasing a used model, understanding its strengths and weaknesses is crucial for maximizing its performance and longevity.

What Makes the Stihl 056AV a Heavy-Duty Chainsaw?

Before diving into the pro tips, let’s define what makes the 056AV suitable for heavy-duty work.

• Engine Size and Power: The 056AV typically features an engine displacement of around 87cc, delivering substantial horsepower and torque. This translates to the ability to handle large diameter logs and dense hardwoods with relative ease.
• Durable Construction: Built to withstand the rigors of professional use, the 056AV boasts a robust magnesium alloy crankcase and high-quality components. This contributes to its longevity and resistance to wear and tear.
• Large Bar Capacity: The 056AV can accommodate longer guide bars (up to 36 inches in some cases), allowing you to tackle larger trees and logs without constant repositioning.
• Reliability: While older models may require occasional maintenance, the 056AV is known for its overall reliability, provided it’s properly cared for. I’ve seen these saws running strong after decades of use, a testament to their quality.

However, it’s important to acknowledge the downsides:

• Weight: The 056AV is a heavy chainsaw, which can lead to fatigue during prolonged use.
• Emissions: Being an older model, it doesn’t meet current emission standards, which may be a concern in some areas.
• Parts Availability: Finding replacement parts can be challenging and sometimes expensive.
• Vibration: Compared to modern chainsaws, the 056AV has higher vibration levels, which can contribute to hand-arm vibration syndrome (HAVS) with prolonged use.

Key Terminology

Before we proceed, let’s establish a common understanding of some essential terms:

• Green Wood: Freshly cut wood with a high moisture content (often exceeding 50%). It’s heavier, more difficult to split, and prone to fungal growth.
• Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been air-dried to a moisture content of 20% or less. It’s lighter, easier to split, burns more efficiently, and produces less smoke.
• Bucking: Cutting a felled tree into shorter, manageable lengths.
• Felling: The act of cutting down a tree.
• Kerf: The width of the cut made by the chainsaw chain.
• Kickback: A sudden, uncontrolled upward or backward movement of the chainsaw, often caused by the tip of the bar contacting an object.
• Chaps: Protective leg coverings designed to stop a chainsaw chain in the event of contact.
• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Safety gear, including chaps, helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, gloves, and steel-toed boots.

5 Pro Tips for Heavy-Duty Wood Processing with the Stihl 056AV

Now, let’s get to the heart of the matter: how to effectively and safely use the Stihl 056AV for heavy-duty wood processing. These tips are based on my years of experience and are designed to help you maximize your productivity while minimizing risk.

Pro Tip #1: Master the Art of Chain Sharpening and Maintenance

A dull chain is your worst enemy when dealing with heavy-duty wood. It not only slows down your cutting speed but also increases the risk of kickback and places unnecessary strain on the chainsaw engine.

• Why Sharpening Matters: A sharp chain slices through wood effortlessly, while a dull chain tears and grinds, generating more heat and friction. This not only reduces cutting efficiency but also increases fuel consumption and accelerates wear on the bar and chain.
• The Correct Tools: Invest in a quality chainsaw sharpening kit that includes a file holder, round files (typically 7/32″ for the 056AV’s chain), a flat file, and a depth gauge tool.
• Sharpening Technique:
  1. Secure the Chainsaw: Clamp the bar in a vise or use a stump vise to keep it stable.
  2. Identify the Cutting Angle: Use the file holder to maintain the correct cutting angle (typically 30-35 degrees).
  3. File Each Tooth: File each tooth evenly, using smooth, consistent strokes. Count the number of strokes per tooth to ensure uniformity.
  4. Lower the Depth Gauges: Use the depth gauge tool and flat file to lower the depth gauges (rakers) slightly. This prevents the chain from grabbing too aggressively, which can lead to kickback.
• Chain Tension: Regularly check and adjust the chain tension. A properly tensioned chain should have a slight amount of slack but should not sag excessively. I usually aim for about 1/8″ of slack. Too tight, and it will bind and overheat; too loose, and it can derail.
• Bar Maintenance: Clean the bar groove regularly to remove sawdust and debris. Check the bar rails for wear and burrs, and file them smooth if necessary.
• Chain Oil: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil to lubricate the chain and bar. Proper lubrication reduces friction, extends the life of the chain and bar, and helps to prevent overheating. I prefer a synthetic blend, especially in cold weather.

Personal Story: I remember once trying to fell a large oak tree with a dull chain. It was a grueling experience, and the chainsaw kept bogging down. After struggling for hours, I finally gave up and sharpened the chain. The difference was night and day. The chainsaw sliced through the oak like butter, and the job was completed in a fraction of the time. That experience taught me the importance of maintaining a sharp chain.

Data and Insights: I’ve conducted informal tests comparing cutting times with sharp and dull chains. A sharp chain can reduce cutting time by as much as 50%, significantly increasing productivity.

Pro Tip #2: Choose the Right Bar and Chain for the Job

Not all bars and chains are created equal. Selecting the appropriate bar and chain for the type of wood you’re cutting and the size of the logs is crucial for maximizing efficiency and safety.

• Bar Length: Choose a bar length that is appropriate for the size of the trees you’ll be felling and the diameter of the logs you’ll be bucking. A longer bar allows you to cut larger trees without having to reposition the chainsaw, but it also increases the risk of kickback and requires more power. I typically use a 20-inch bar for most of my firewood processing, but I’ll switch to a 28-inch bar when felling larger trees.
• Chain Type: There are different types of chainsaw chains designed for different applications.
  • Full Chisel: These chains have aggressive cutting teeth and are ideal for cutting clean, seasoned wood. They require more frequent sharpening but offer the fastest cutting speed.
  • Semi-Chisel: These chains have more rounded cutting teeth and are more durable than full chisel chains. They are a good choice for cutting dirty or frozen wood.
  • Low-Profile (Safety) Chains: These chains have a reduced kickback potential and are a good choice for beginners. However, they cut slower than full or semi-chisel chains.
• Chain Pitch and Gauge: The chain pitch is the distance between three consecutive rivets on the chain, divided by two. The chain gauge is the thickness of the drive links that fit into the bar groove. It’s essential to use a chain with the correct pitch and gauge for your chainsaw and bar. The Stihl 056AV typically uses a 3/8″ pitch chain.
• Hardwood vs. Softwood: Hardwoods like oak, maple, and hickory require a more aggressive chain and a properly maintained bar. Softwoods like pine and fir are easier to cut and can be processed with a less aggressive chain.
• Consider a Ripping Chain: If you’re milling logs into lumber, consider using a ripping chain. Ripping chains are designed to cut along the grain of the wood, providing a smoother and more efficient cut.

Case Study: I once tried to cut a large oak log with a chain that was designed for softwood. The chain kept binding and smoking, and it took me forever to get through the log. After switching to a full chisel chain, the job was completed in a fraction of the time. This experience highlighted the importance of using the right chain for the type of wood you’re cutting.

Tool Specifications: When selecting a bar and chain for your Stihl 056AV, consult the owner’s manual or a qualified chainsaw technician to ensure compatibility.

Pro Tip #3: Felling Techniques and Safe Practices

Felling trees is one of the most dangerous aspects of wood processing. It requires careful planning, proper technique, and a thorough understanding of the risks involved.

• Risk Assessment: Before felling any tree, conduct a thorough risk assessment. Identify potential hazards, such as power lines, buildings, roads, and other trees. Check for wind conditions, which can affect the direction of the fall.
• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Always wear appropriate PPE, including a helmet, eye protection, hearing protection, chaps, gloves, and steel-toed boots.
• Felling Wedges: Use felling wedges to help direct the fall of the tree. Wedges are inserted into the back cut to prevent the tree from pinching the bar and to help push it over in the desired direction. I always carry several wedges of different sizes.
• The Notch: The notch is a V-shaped cut made on the side of the tree facing the direction you want it to fall. The notch should be about one-third of the tree’s diameter.
• The Hinge: The hinge is the uncut wood between the notch and the back cut. It controls the direction of the fall. The hinge should be about 10% of the tree’s diameter.
• The Back Cut: The back cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch, slightly above the bottom of the notch. Leave a hinge of uncut wood to control the direction of the fall.
• Escape Route: Plan an escape route before making the back cut. The escape route should be at a 45-degree angle away from the direction of the fall.
• Communication: If you’re working with a team, establish clear communication signals.
• Avoid Felling in High Winds: High winds can make felling unpredictable and dangerous. It’s best to postpone felling until the wind subsides.
• Leaners: Be extra cautious when felling trees that are leaning in a particular direction. These trees can be unpredictable and may require specialized felling techniques.
• Snags: Standing dead trees (snags) are particularly dangerous because they can fall unexpectedly. Avoid felling snags if possible. If you must fell a snag, use extreme caution and consider using a remote felling technique.

Original Insights: I’ve found that using a combination of felling wedges and a pulling rope can be very effective in controlling the direction of the fall, especially when dealing with leaning trees. The rope is attached high up in the tree and pulled in the desired direction of fall.

Safety Considerations: Always be aware of your surroundings and maintain a safe distance from the tree while it’s falling. Never turn your back on a falling tree.

Pro Tip #4: Efficient Bucking and Splitting Techniques

Once the tree is felled, the next step is to buck it into manageable lengths and split the logs into firewood.

• Bucking Techniques:
  • Supporting the Log: Before bucking a log, make sure it’s properly supported to prevent it from pinching the bar. Use branches, rocks, or other logs to support the log.
  • Cutting from the Top: When bucking a log that is supported on both ends, cut from the top down to prevent the bar from pinching.
  • Cutting from the Bottom: When bucking a log that is supported in the middle, cut from the bottom up to prevent the bar from pinching.
  • Boring Cut: A boring cut is used to remove a section of wood from the center of the log, preventing it from splitting unevenly. This technique is particularly useful for large-diameter logs.
• Splitting Techniques:
  • Manual Splitting: Use a splitting maul or axe to split smaller logs. Choose a splitting maul with a weight that is comfortable for you to handle. I personally prefer an 8-pound maul.
  • Hydraulic Log Splitter: For larger logs or for processing large quantities of firewood, a hydraulic log splitter is a worthwhile investment. Hydraulic log splitters can significantly reduce the amount of time and effort required to split firewood. I use a 25-ton hydraulic splitter for most of my firewood processing.
  • Wood Moisture Content: Green wood is much more difficult to split than seasoned wood. Allow the wood to dry for several months before splitting it.
  • Splitting Wedges: Use splitting wedges to split particularly tough logs. Drive the wedges into the log with a sledgehammer.
  • Grain Direction: Split logs along the grain. This will make splitting much easier.
• Stacking Firewood:
  • Proper Stacking: Stack firewood in a way that allows for good air circulation. This will help it to dry more quickly.
  • Elevated Stacking: Stack firewood on pallets or other elevated surfaces to prevent it from absorbing moisture from the ground.
  • Covering Firewood: Cover firewood with a tarp to protect it from rain and snow. However, leave the sides open to allow for air circulation.
  • Location: Stack firewood in a sunny, well-ventilated location.

Original Case Study: I once had a large pile of oak logs that were extremely difficult to split. After letting them dry for six months, they were much easier to split. This experience demonstrated the importance of allowing wood to dry before splitting it.

Strategic Advantages: Using a hydraulic log splitter can increase your firewood production by as much as 500%, especially when dealing with large-diameter logs.

Pro Tip #5: Long-Term Storage and Seasoning for Optimal Burning

Properly seasoning firewood is essential for efficient and clean burning. Green wood contains a high moisture content, which makes it difficult to ignite and causes it to produce a lot of smoke. Seasoned wood, on the other hand, burns hotter, cleaner, and more efficiently.

• Target Moisture Content: Aim for a moisture content of 20% or less for optimal burning.
• Air Drying: The most common method of seasoning firewood is air drying. This involves stacking the wood in a way that allows for good air circulation.
• Drying Time: The amount of time it takes to season firewood depends on the type of wood, the climate, and the stacking method. In general, hardwoods require at least six months of drying time, while softwoods require at least three months. In humid climates, drying times may be longer. I typically allow my oak to dry for at least a year.
• Moisture Meter: Use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of the wood. This will help you determine when it’s ready to burn.
• Kiln Drying: Kiln drying is a faster method of seasoning firewood, but it requires specialized equipment.
• Storage Location: Store seasoned firewood in a dry, well-ventilated location.
• Preventing Rot: Avoid stacking firewood directly on the ground, as this can promote rot. Use pallets or other elevated surfaces to keep the wood off the ground.
• Wood Species: Different wood species have different burning characteristics. Hardwoods like oak, maple, and hickory burn hotter and longer than softwoods like pine and fir.

Technical Details: The ideal moisture content for firewood is between 15% and 20%. Wood with a moisture content above 25% will be difficult to ignite and will produce a lot of smoke.

Implementation Guidance: Start seasoning your firewood well in advance of the heating season. This will ensure that you have a supply of dry, seasoned wood when you need it.

Conclusion

The Stihl 056AV is a powerful and reliable chainsaw that is well-suited for heavy-duty wood processing. By mastering the art of chain sharpening and maintenance, choosing the right bar and chain, employing safe felling techniques, utilizing efficient bucking and splitting methods, and properly seasoning your firewood, you can maximize your productivity and minimize risk. Remember to always prioritize safety and wear appropriate PPE.

Wood processing is a challenging but rewarding endeavor. There’s a certain satisfaction that comes from felling a tree, bucking it into logs, splitting the wood, and stacking it neatly for winter. It’s a connection to nature and a way to provide for yourself and your family.

Now, it’s your turn. Take these pro tips and put them into practice. Get out there, start your chainsaw, and experience the satisfaction of working with wood. And remember, always be safe, be smart, and be respectful of the power you wield.

As a next step, I recommend practicing sharpening your chainsaw chain. A sharp chain is the foundation of efficient and safe wood processing. Once you’re comfortable with sharpening, try felling a small tree. Start with something easy and gradually work your way up to larger trees. And don’t be afraid to ask for help from experienced loggers or arborists. They can provide valuable insights and guidance. Good luck, and happy cutting!

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