Stihl 056 Super AV Chainsaw (5 Pro Tips for Firewood Prep)

Ever feel like you’re wrestling a grizzly bear when trying to split firewood? I know I have. There’s a certain primal satisfaction in felling a tree and turning it into a cozy stack of fuel for winter, but let’s be honest, it can be a real pain in the axe (pun intended!) if you’re not doing it right.

I’ve spent years in the woods, from helping my grandfather thin out his overgrown apple orchard to working on larger forestry projects. I’ve learned a thing or two about making firewood prep less of a chore and more of a satisfying accomplishment. The Stihl 056 Super AV, a beast of a chainsaw, is a key part of that equation. It’s a classic for a reason, and with the right knowledge, you can make it sing.

This guide isn’t just about wielding a chainsaw; it’s about understanding the science of wood, the mechanics of your tool, and the art of efficient firewood production. I’ll share five pro tips, gleaned from years of experience, to help you conquer your firewood pile with the Stihl 056 Super AV. We’ll delve into the technical nitty-gritty, covering everything from wood selection to chainsaw maintenance, safety protocols, and optimized cutting techniques. Let’s get started.

Mastering Firewood Prep with the Stihl 056 Super AV: 5 Pro Tips

1. Wood Selection: Know Your BTU’s and Moisture Content

Choosing the right wood is the foundation of efficient firewood preparation. Not all wood burns equally, and understanding the differences can save you time, effort, and frustration. This isn’t just about grabbing any log you can find; it’s about strategic selection for optimal heat output and burn time.

Understanding BTU’s:

BTU stands for British Thermal Unit, and it’s the standard measure of heat energy. Different wood species have different BTU ratings per cord (a standard measure of firewood volume, typically 128 cubic feet). Higher BTU ratings mean more heat per unit of volume.

• Hardwoods vs. Softwoods: Generally, hardwoods (deciduous trees like oak, maple, and ash) have higher BTU ratings than softwoods (coniferous trees like pine, fir, and spruce).
• Examples:
  • Oak (Red/White): 20-25 million BTU/cord (excellent, long-burning, but takes longer to dry)
  • Maple (Sugar/Red): 20-24 million BTU/cord (excellent, good heat, relatively easy to split)
  • Ash (White/Green): 20-24 million BTU/cord (excellent, easy to split, burns clean)
  • Birch (Yellow/White): 20 million BTU/cord (good, burns hot, but relatively quickly)
  • Pine (Various): 12-18 million BTU/cord (lower heat, burns quickly, good for starting fires, but produces more smoke)

Moisture Content is King:

Wood moisture content is the percentage of water in the wood compared to its dry weight. Freshly cut wood (green wood) can have moisture content as high as 50-60%. For efficient burning, firewood needs to be seasoned, meaning it’s been dried to a moisture content of 20% or less.

• Why Moisture Matters: Burning wet wood wastes energy to evaporate the water before it can actually produce heat. It also creates more smoke, creosote buildup in your chimney (a fire hazard), and significantly reduces heat output.
• Ideal Moisture Content: 15-20% is the sweet spot for most firewood.
• Testing Moisture Content: A wood moisture meter is an invaluable tool. Insert the probes into a freshly split piece of wood to get an accurate reading. I personally use a dual-probe meter for better accuracy, especially with denser hardwoods.
• Seasoning Time:
  • Hardwoods: Typically require 6-12 months of seasoning (depending on climate and storage conditions). Oak can take even longer, sometimes up to 18 months.
  • Softwoods: Usually season faster, around 3-6 months.

My Wood Selection Strategy:

From my experience, I prioritize oak and maple whenever possible. They provide excellent heat and burn time. However, I always have a stash of softwood (usually pine) for kindling and starting fires. I aim to have at least a year’s worth of firewood seasoned and ready to go, ensuring I’m never stuck with wet, inefficient wood. I also mark each stack with the date it was cut, the type of wood, and the estimated seasoning time.

Technical Data and Insights:

• Wood Density and BTU: A direct correlation exists between wood density and BTU. Denser woods, like oak and hickory, pack more energy per unit volume. However, density also affects splitting difficulty and drying time.
• Case Study: I once compared the heat output of seasoned oak versus unseasoned pine in my wood stove. The seasoned oak produced almost twice the heat and burned for significantly longer, highlighting the importance of proper seasoning.
• Industry Standards: Forestry regulations in many regions dictate minimum seasoning times and storage requirements for firewood to prevent the spread of pests and diseases.

Practical Tips:

• Split wood before seasoning: Splitting exposes more surface area, accelerating the drying process.
• Stack wood properly: Elevate the wood off the ground on pallets or skids. Stack it loosely to allow for air circulation. Cover the top of the stack to protect it from rain and snow, but leave the sides open for ventilation.
• Choose the right location: A sunny, windy spot is ideal for seasoning firewood.
• Use a wood moisture meter: Don’t rely on guesswork. Invest in a quality moisture meter to ensure your wood is properly seasoned.

2. Mastering the Stihl 056 Super AV: Maintenance and Calibration

The Stihl 056 Super AV is a powerful machine, but like any piece of equipment, it requires proper maintenance and calibration to perform optimally and safely. Neglecting these aspects can lead to decreased performance, increased wear and tear, and potentially dangerous situations.

Basic Maintenance:

• Air Filter: Clean the air filter after every 5-10 hours of use, or more frequently in dusty conditions. A clogged air filter restricts airflow, reducing engine power and increasing fuel consumption. I usually use compressed air to blow out the filter, followed by a gentle washing with soap and water if necessary.
• Fuel Filter: Replace the fuel filter annually or when it becomes clogged. A dirty fuel filter can starve the engine of fuel, causing it to run poorly or stall.
• Spark Plug: Inspect the spark plug regularly and replace it every 50-100 hours of use. A worn spark plug can cause starting problems and reduced engine performance.
• Chain Sharpening: Sharpen the chain regularly to maintain optimal cutting performance. A dull chain requires more force to cut, increasing the risk of kickback and putting unnecessary strain on the engine. I use a chainsaw chain sharpener with a precise angle guide to ensure consistent and accurate sharpening.
• Bar Maintenance: Clean the bar groove regularly to remove sawdust and debris. Check the bar for wear and damage and replace it as needed. I also flip the bar periodically to ensure even wear.
• Lubrication: Use high-quality bar and chain oil to lubricate the chain and bar. Proper lubrication reduces friction, prolongs the life of the chain and bar, and prevents overheating. I prefer a synthetic bar and chain oil for its superior lubricating properties and reduced environmental impact.

Calibration and Adjustments:

• Carburetor Adjustment: The carburetor controls the air-fuel mixture entering the engine. Improper carburetor settings can lead to poor performance, excessive fuel consumption, and engine damage. The Stihl 056 Super AV typically has three adjustment screws:
  • L (Low-Speed): Adjusts the fuel mixture at idle and low speeds.
  • H (High-Speed): Adjusts the fuel mixture at high speeds.
  • LA (Idle Speed): Adjusts the engine idle speed.
• Procedure:
  1. Warm-up: Start the engine and let it warm up for a few minutes.
  2. Idle Speed: Adjust the LA screw until the chain stops moving at idle. The engine should idle smoothly without stalling.
  3. Low-Speed: Turn the L screw clockwise until the engine starts to bog down or stall. Then, turn it counterclockwise until the engine runs smoothly and accelerates cleanly.
  4. High-Speed: This adjustment is best left to a professional if you’re not experienced. However, you can listen to the engine at full throttle. It should run smoothly without sputtering or hesitating. A slightly rich (slightly too much fuel) setting is generally safer than a lean setting (too little fuel), as a lean setting can cause the engine to overheat and seize.
• Chain Tension: Proper chain tension is crucial for safe and efficient cutting. The chain should be snug against the bar but still able to be pulled around by hand. Too loose, and the chain can derail. Too tight, and it can overheat and break. I check chain tension frequently, especially when the chain is new, as it will stretch during the initial break-in period.

Technical Data and Insights:

• Two-Stroke Engine Principles: The Stihl 056 Super AV utilizes a two-stroke engine, which requires a mixture of gasoline and oil for lubrication. Using the correct oil-to-gas ratio is essential for engine health. Stihl recommends a 50:1 ratio (50 parts gasoline to 1 part oil) when using Stihl two-stroke oil.
• Carburetor Theory: The carburetor uses a venturi effect to draw fuel into the airstream. The L and H screws control the amount of fuel that is allowed to flow through the jets, affecting the air-fuel mixture.
• Case Study: I once worked on a Stihl 056 Super AV that had been running poorly for years. After a thorough cleaning of the carburetor and a careful adjustment of the L and H screws, the engine ran like new, demonstrating the importance of proper carburetor maintenance.
• Industry Standards: Chainsaw manufacturers provide detailed maintenance schedules and calibration procedures in their owner’s manuals. Adhering to these recommendations is crucial for maintaining the warranty and ensuring the safe and reliable operation of the chainsaw.

Practical Tips:

• Use a tachometer: For precise carburetor adjustments, a tachometer can be used to measure engine RPM. This allows you to fine-tune the settings for optimal performance.
• Keep a maintenance log: Track your chainsaw maintenance tasks, including dates, parts replaced, and adjustments made. This will help you stay on top of maintenance and identify potential problems early.
• Consult a professional: If you’re not comfortable performing carburetor adjustments or other complex maintenance tasks, consult a qualified chainsaw mechanic.
• Use the right tools: Use the correct tools for each maintenance task to avoid damaging the chainsaw.

3. Safe Cutting Techniques: Minimizing Risk and Maximizing Efficiency

Chainsaw operation is inherently dangerous, and safety should always be your top priority. Proper cutting techniques can significantly reduce the risk of accidents and injuries while also improving your efficiency.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE):

• Helmet: A chainsaw helmet with a face shield and hearing protection is essential. The helmet protects your head from falling debris, the face shield protects your eyes from flying wood chips, and the hearing protection reduces the risk of hearing damage.
• Eye Protection: Even with a face shield, I always wear safety glasses or goggles for an extra layer of protection.
• Hearing Protection: Chainsaws are loud, and prolonged exposure to high noise levels can cause permanent hearing damage. Use earplugs or earmuffs with a noise reduction rating (NRR) of at least 25 dB.
• Gloves: Wear heavy-duty work gloves to protect your hands from cuts, abrasions, and vibration.
• Chainsaw Chaps: Chainsaw chaps are designed to stop the chain in the event of contact with your legs. They are made of multiple layers of ballistic nylon that pull apart and clog the chain, preventing serious injury.
• Steel-Toed Boots: Steel-toed boots protect your feet from falling logs and potential chainsaw injuries.
• Long Sleeves and Pants: Wear long sleeves and pants to protect your skin from cuts and abrasions. Avoid loose-fitting clothing that could get caught in the chainsaw.

Basic Cutting Techniques:

• Stance: Maintain a stable stance with your feet shoulder-width apart and your weight evenly distributed. Keep your body balanced and avoid overreaching.
• Grip: Grip the chainsaw firmly with both hands. Your left hand should be on the front handle, and your right hand should be on the rear handle. Keep your thumbs wrapped around the handles.
• Cutting Angle: Use the lower portion of the bar for most cuts. Avoid using the tip of the bar, as this increases the risk of kickback.
• Kickback Zone: Be aware of the kickback zone, which is the upper quadrant of the bar tip. Avoid contacting this area with the wood, as it can cause the chainsaw to kick back violently towards you.
• Felling Techniques: When felling trees, use proper techniques to control the direction of the fall. This includes making a notch cut on the side you want the tree to fall and a back cut on the opposite side, leaving a hinge of wood to guide the tree.
• Limbing Techniques: When limbing trees, work from the base of the tree towards the top. Use caution when cutting limbs under tension, as they can spring back and cause injury.
• Bucking Techniques: When bucking logs into firewood lengths, use proper techniques to prevent the log from pinching the bar. This includes using wedges to support the log and making cuts from both sides.

Advanced Techniques for the Stihl 056 Super AV:

The Stihl 056 Super AV, with its powerful engine and longer bar, allows for efficient cutting of larger logs. However, it also requires extra caution due to its weight and power.

• Bore Cutting: Bore cutting involves plunging the tip of the bar into the log to create a hole. This technique is useful for relieving tension and preventing the log from splitting uncontrollably. However, it requires careful control and awareness of the kickback zone.
• Hinge Wood Control: When felling larger trees, the hinge wood plays a crucial role in controlling the direction of the fall. By carefully adjusting the thickness and angle of the hinge wood, you can precisely guide the tree to the desired location.
• Log Decking: Log decking involves stacking logs in a safe and efficient manner. When decking logs, consider the stability of the stack, the accessibility for future cutting, and the potential for rolling or shifting.

Technical Data and Insights:

• Kickback Physics: Kickback occurs when the chain catches on an object and forces the bar to rotate upwards and backwards towards the operator. The force of the kickback can be significant, and it can cause serious injury.
• Chain Speed and Cutting Efficiency: The Stihl 056 Super AV has a high chain speed, which allows for faster and more efficient cutting. However, it also requires greater control and awareness of the chainsaw’s movements.
• Case Study: I once witnessed a near-miss accident when a fellow logger experienced kickback while felling a tree. Fortunately, he was wearing proper PPE, including a helmet and chainsaw chaps, which prevented serious injury. This incident reinforced the importance of safety and proper cutting techniques.
• Industry Standards: OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Administration) and other regulatory agencies have established safety standards for chainsaw operation. These standards cover topics such as PPE, training, and safe work practices.

Practical Tips:

• Take a Chainsaw Safety Course: A chainsaw safety course will provide you with the knowledge and skills you need to operate a chainsaw safely and efficiently.
• Practice in a Safe Environment: Before tackling large or complex projects, practice your cutting techniques in a safe and controlled environment.
• Never Work Alone: Always work with a partner when operating a chainsaw. This allows for assistance in case of an emergency.
• Take Breaks: Chainsaw operation can be physically and mentally demanding. Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue and maintain focus.
• Inspect Your Work Area: Before starting any cutting task, inspect your work area for hazards such as overhead power lines, uneven terrain, and hidden obstacles.

4. Optimizing Splitting Techniques: From Manual to Mechanical

Splitting firewood can be a physically demanding task, but with the right techniques and tools, you can make it more efficient and less strenuous. Whether you’re using a manual axe or a mechanical splitter, understanding the principles of splitting will help you get the job done safely and effectively.

Manual Splitting Techniques:

• Axe Selection: Choose an axe that is appropriate for the size and type of wood you’re splitting. A splitting axe with a heavy head and a wide wedge is ideal for splitting large, tough logs. A lighter axe is better for splitting smaller, easier-to-split wood. I personally prefer a maul for larger rounds and a hatchet for kindling.
• Stance: Maintain a stable stance with your feet shoulder-width apart and your weight evenly distributed. Keep your back straight and bend at the knees.
• Grip: Grip the axe firmly with both hands. Your dominant hand should be near the axe head, and your non-dominant hand should be near the end of the handle.
• Swing: Swing the axe smoothly and powerfully, using your entire body to generate force. Aim for the center of the log, or for any existing cracks or weaknesses.
• Splitting Block: Use a sturdy splitting block that is at least 12 inches in diameter and 18 inches tall. A larger block provides a more stable base and reduces the risk of hitting the ground with the axe. I prefer using a section of a large, stable tree trunk for my splitting block.
• Wedges: Use wedges to split logs that are too tough to split with an axe alone. Drive the wedge into a crack or weakness in the log using a sledgehammer.

Mechanical Splitting Techniques:

• Hydraulic Log Splitters: Hydraulic log splitters use hydraulic pressure to force a wedge through the log. They are much faster and less strenuous than manual splitting, especially for large or tough logs.
• Types of Splitters:
  • Horizontal Splitters: The log is placed horizontally on the splitter, and the wedge is pushed through it.
  • Vertical Splitters: The log is placed vertically on the splitter, and the wedge is forced downwards. Vertical splitters are better for splitting very large logs that are difficult to lift.
• Operating a Log Splitter:
  1. Safety: Always wear safety glasses and gloves when operating a log splitter.
  2. Placement: Place the log securely on the splitter bed, ensuring that it is centered on the wedge.
  3. Activation: Activate the splitter by engaging the hydraulic pump.
  4. Splitting: Allow the wedge to slowly and steadily split the log. Avoid forcing the splitter if the log is too tough to split.
  5. Release: Once the log is split, release the hydraulic pressure and remove the split pieces.
• Kinetic Log Splitters: Kinetic log splitters use a flywheel to store energy and deliver a quick, powerful splitting force. They are faster than hydraulic splitters but require more physical effort to operate.

Optimizing Splitting Efficiency:

• Wood Grain: Split logs along the grain whenever possible. This will make splitting easier and produce cleaner splits.
• Knots: Avoid splitting logs with large knots, as they are very difficult to split and can damage your axe or log splitter.
• Pre-Splitting: For very large logs, consider pre-splitting them into smaller pieces before attempting to split them into firewood size.
• Wood Species: Different wood species split differently. Softwoods are generally easier to split than hardwoods. Green wood is also easier to split than seasoned wood.
• Axe Sharpening: Keep your axe sharp to improve splitting efficiency and reduce the risk of glancing blows.

Technical Data and Insights:

• Wood Strength and Splitting Force: The force required to split a log depends on the wood species, moisture content, and diameter. Hardwoods require more force than softwoods, and seasoned wood requires more force than green wood.
• Hydraulic Pressure and Splitting Capacity: Hydraulic log splitters are rated by their splitting force, typically measured in tons. A higher tonnage rating indicates that the splitter can handle larger and tougher logs.
• Case Study: I once compared the splitting efficiency of a manual axe versus a hydraulic log splitter. The hydraulic splitter was significantly faster and less strenuous, especially for splitting large oak logs. However, the manual axe was more versatile and could be used in areas where a log splitter could not be easily accessed.
• Industry Standards: Log splitter manufacturers provide safety guidelines and operating instructions in their owner’s manuals. Adhering to these recommendations is crucial for safe and efficient operation.

Practical Tips:

• Sharpen Your Axe Regularly: A sharp axe is safer and more efficient.
• Use the Right Tool for the Job: Choose the appropriate axe or log splitter for the size and type of wood you’re splitting.
• Take Breaks: Splitting firewood can be physically demanding. Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue and injury.
• Work in a Safe Area: Ensure that your splitting area is clear of obstacles and that you have plenty of room to swing your axe or operate your log splitter.
• Use Wedges When Necessary: Don’t hesitate to use wedges to split tough logs.

5. Efficient Stacking and Storage: Preserving Your Firewood Investment

Proper stacking and storage are essential for seasoning firewood and protecting it from the elements. Efficient stacking maximizes air circulation, promoting faster drying, while proper storage prevents rot, insect infestations, and other forms of degradation.

Stacking Methods:

• Traditional Row Stacking: This is the most common method of stacking firewood. The logs are stacked in rows, with each row leaning slightly inwards to create a stable structure.
• Circular Stacking (Holz Hausen): This method involves stacking the logs in a circular shape, with the center left open for ventilation. The outer layer of logs is angled inwards to create a stable roof. This method is aesthetically pleasing and promotes excellent air circulation.
• Crib Stacking: This method involves stacking the logs in a crisscross pattern, creating a crib-like structure. This method is very stable and allows for good air circulation.
• Modified Stacking: Modified stacking is a combination of row stacking and circular stacking. The logs are stacked in rows, but the ends of the rows are curved inwards to create a semi-circular shape.

Storage Considerations:

• Elevation: Elevate the firewood off the ground using pallets, skids, or a layer of gravel. This prevents moisture from wicking up into the wood and promotes air circulation underneath the stack.
• Sunlight: Choose a location that receives plenty of sunlight. Sunlight helps to dry out the wood and prevent mold growth.
• Ventilation: Ensure that the stack has good ventilation. This allows air to circulate through the wood, carrying away moisture.
• Covering: Cover the top of the stack with a tarp or roofing material to protect it from rain and snow. However, leave the sides of the stack open to allow for ventilation. I typically only cover the top third of the stack, leaving the sides completely open.
• Distance from Structures: Store firewood away from buildings and other structures to reduce the risk of fire and pest infestations. A distance of at least 10 feet is recommended.
• Pest Control: Inspect your firewood regularly for signs of insect infestations. If you find any pests, take appropriate measures to control them.

Optimizing Stacking and Storage:

• Stacking Density: Stack the firewood loosely to allow for air circulation. Avoid packing the logs too tightly together.
• Log Orientation: Orient the logs with the cut ends facing outwards. This allows moisture to escape more easily.
• Stack Height: Limit the height of the stack to prevent it from becoming unstable. A height of 4-6 feet is generally recommended.
• Stack Width: Limit the width of the stack to allow for good air circulation. A width of 4-6 feet is generally recommended.
• Stack Length: The length of the stack is less critical, but it should be manageable for moving and accessing the firewood.

Technical Data and Insights:

• Airflow and Drying Rate: Airflow is critical for drying firewood. A well-ventilated stack will dry much faster than a poorly ventilated stack. Studies have shown that firewood stacked in a circular pattern with good ventilation can dry in as little as 6 months.
• Moisture Content and Decay: High moisture content promotes the growth of fungi and other microorganisms that can cause wood decay. Properly seasoned firewood is less susceptible to decay.
• Case Study: I once compared the drying rates of firewood stacked using different methods. The circular stacking method resulted in the fastest drying rate, followed by the crib stacking method and the traditional row stacking method.
• Industry Standards: Forestry regulations in some regions may dictate specific requirements for firewood storage, such as minimum distances from structures and restrictions on the types of materials that can be used for covering.

Practical Tips:

• Use Pallets or Skids: Pallets or skids provide a stable and well-ventilated base for your firewood stack.
• Orient the Logs Correctly: Orient the logs with the cut ends facing outwards to promote drying.
• Cover the Top of the Stack: Cover the top of the stack to protect it from rain and snow.
• Inspect Your Firewood Regularly: Inspect your firewood for signs of insect infestations and decay.
• Rotate Your Firewood: Rotate your firewood stock, using the oldest wood first.

By following these five pro tips, you can master the art of firewood preparation with your Stihl 056 Super AV. Remember, safety is paramount, and proper technique is the key to efficiency and enjoyment. Now, get out there and turn those logs into a warm, comforting fire!

Learn more