Stihl 056 Chainsaw Tips (5 Pro Woodcutting Hacks)

My goal is to transform you into a more efficient and safer woodcutter using the Stihl 056 chainsaw. Forget just cutting wood; let’s master the art of felling trees, processing logs, and preparing firewood with precision and a few pro-level hacks. This guide will equip you with the knowledge to maximize your chainsaw’s potential, minimize waste, and boost your confidence in the woods.

Unleashing the Beast: Stihl 056 Chainsaw Tips (5 Pro Woodcutting Hacks)

The Stihl 056 chainsaw. It’s a classic, a legend, a workhorse. I’ve spent countless hours with this machine in my hands, felling trees in the crisp mountain air and bucking logs under the sweltering summer sun. It’s more than just a tool; it’s a partner. But even the best partner needs the right guidance. So, let’s dive into five pro woodcutting hacks that will help you unlock the true potential of your Stihl 056.

1. Mastering the Art of Chainsaw Calibration: The Heart of Efficient Cutting

Many people underestimate the importance of a properly calibrated chainsaw. It’s not just about turning a few screws; it’s about understanding the intricate relationship between fuel, air, and the engine’s performance. A poorly calibrated chainsaw wastes fuel, reduces cutting efficiency, and can even damage the engine.

Why Calibration Matters

A chainsaw engine needs the right air-fuel mixture to run efficiently. Too lean (too much air) and the engine overheats, potentially causing severe damage. Too rich (too much fuel) and you’ll experience reduced power, excessive smoke, and fouled spark plugs. Proper calibration ensures optimal engine performance, extending the life of your Stihl 056 and improving its cutting power.

The Calibration Process: A Step-by-Step Guide

Before you even think about calibrating, ensure your chainsaw is clean, has a fresh spark plug, and a clean air filter. A dirty air filter restricts airflow, affecting the air-fuel mixture and skewing your calibration efforts. I learned this the hard way after spending an hour trying to tune a saw only to realize the air filter was completely clogged with sawdust.

Warm-up: Start the chainsaw and let it idle for a few minutes to reach operating temperature. This is crucial because the engine’s behavior changes as it warms up.
Locate the Adjustment Screws: The Stihl 056 typically has three adjustment screws:
- L (Low-speed): Controls the fuel mixture at idle and low speeds.
- H (High-speed): Controls the fuel mixture at high speeds.
- LA (Idle Speed): Adjusts the engine’s idle speed.
Initial Settings: Consult your Stihl 056 owner’s manual for the recommended initial settings for the L and H screws. If you don’t have the manual, a good starting point is usually 1 to 1.5 turns open from the fully closed position (gently seated, not tightened).
Adjusting the Low-Speed (L) Screw:
- Turn the L screw clockwise (in) to lean the mixture (less fuel).
- Turn the L screw counter-clockwise (out) to richen the mixture (more fuel).
- The goal is to find the setting where the engine idles smoothly without stalling or hesitating when you rev the throttle quickly.
- Pro Tip: Listen carefully to the engine. A lean mixture will often cause the engine to “scream” or rev erratically at idle. A rich mixture will cause the engine to “four-stroke” (a sputtering sound).
Adjusting the Idle Speed (LA) Screw:
- After adjusting the L screw, adjust the LA screw so that the chain does not move at idle.
- Turn the LA screw clockwise to increase idle speed.
- Turn the LA screw counter-clockwise to decrease idle speed.
Adjusting the High-Speed (H) Screw:
- This is the most critical adjustment and requires a keen ear.
- Important Safety Note: Always wear appropriate hearing protection when running a chainsaw at high speeds.
- With the chainsaw running at full throttle, slowly turn the H screw clockwise (in) until the engine starts to “four-stroke” (sputter).
- Then, slowly turn the H screw counter-clockwise (out) until the four-stroking just disappears and the engine runs smoothly and powerfully.
- Pro Tip: The H screw adjustment is extremely sensitive. Small adjustments (1/8 of a turn or less) can make a significant difference.
- Data Point: An engine running too lean at high speeds can experience a temperature increase of 50-100°F within minutes, leading to piston and cylinder damage.
Test Cutting: After calibrating, make a few test cuts in a piece of wood. The chainsaw should cut smoothly and powerfully without bogging down. If the chainsaw bogs down, the H screw may be too lean. If the chainsaw smokes excessively, the H screw may be too rich.
Fine-Tuning: Chainsaws are sensitive to altitude and temperature changes. You may need to fine-tune the calibration occasionally, especially if you notice a change in performance.

Technical Specifications: Calibration Tool Requirements

While you can use a standard screwdriver for calibration, I highly recommend investing in a specialized carburetor adjustment tool. These tools are designed to fit the unique shapes of the adjustment screws on chainsaws, making the process easier and more precise.

Type: Splined, D-shaped, or Pac-Man carburetor adjustment tool (depending on the specific Stihl 056 model).
Material: Hardened steel for durability.
Length: 6-8 inches for easy access to the adjustment screws.
Cost: $10-$30

Case Study: The Altitude Adjustment

I once took my Stihl 056 from my home at 500 feet above sea level to a logging site at 6,000 feet. The chainsaw ran terribly at the higher altitude, sputtering and lacking power. This was because the air is thinner at higher altitudes, requiring a leaner fuel mixture. I had to adjust the L and H screws to compensate for the altitude change. After a few minutes of tweaking, the chainsaw was running like a champ again. This experience taught me the importance of understanding how environmental factors affect chainsaw performance.

2. Chain Sharpening: The Razor’s Edge for Peak Performance

A sharp chain is the key to efficient and safe cutting. A dull chain requires more force to cut, increasing the risk of kickback and putting unnecessary strain on the chainsaw. I’ve seen firsthand how a dull chain can turn a simple task into a grueling chore, leaving you exhausted and frustrated.

The Importance of Sharpness

A sharp chain slices through wood cleanly, producing large, uniform chips. A dull chain, on the other hand, tears and grinds the wood, producing fine sawdust. This not only makes cutting more difficult but also increases the risk of the chain binding in the cut.

Hand Sharpening with a Round File: This is the most common and versatile method. It allows you to sharpen the chain in the field, without the need for specialized equipment.
- Tools Required:
  - Round file (size depends on the chain pitch – see below)
  - File guide
  - Depth gauge tool
  - Flat file
  - Gloves
- Chain Pitch and File Size:
  - 3/8″ Low Profile (LP) or .325″ Pitch: 5/32″ file
  - 3/8″ Standard Pitch: 5/32″ or 13/64″ file
  - .404″ Pitch: 7/32″ file
- Sharpening Procedure:
  - Secure the chainsaw in a vise or clamp.
  - Engage the chain brake.
  - Place the file guide on the chain, aligning the arrows with the direction of chain travel.
  - Hold the file at the correct angle (typically 30 degrees) and file each tooth from the inside out, using smooth, consistent strokes.
  - File each tooth to the same length.
  - Use the depth gauge tool to check the depth of the rakers (depth gauges).
  - Use the flat file to file down the rakers to the correct depth (typically 0.025″ to 0.030″).
  - Pro Tip: Count your strokes on each tooth. Consistency is key to achieving a uniform sharpness.
Electric Chainsaw Sharpener: This method is faster and more precise than hand sharpening, but it requires specialized equipment and a power source.
- Advantages:
  - Fast and efficient
  - Consistent sharpening angle
  - Easy to use
- Disadvantages:
  - Requires a power source
  - Can be expensive
  - Can remove too much material if not used carefully
Chainsaw Sharpening Service: This is the easiest option, but it can be expensive and inconvenient.
- Advantages:
  - Convenient
  - Professional results
- Disadvantages:
  - Expensive
  - Requires dropping off and picking up the chain
  - You lose control over the sharpening process

Technical Specifications: Chain Sharpening Angles

The correct sharpening angle is crucial for achieving optimal cutting performance. The angle varies depending on the type of chain and the type of wood you are cutting.

Standard Chain: 30-degree top plate angle, 10-degree down angle.
Ripping Chain: 10-degree top plate angle, 0-degree down angle.
Hardwood: Slightly steeper top plate angle (35 degrees) for increased cutting power.
Softwood: Slightly shallower top plate angle (25 degrees) for faster cutting speed.

Data Point: The Impact of Chain Sharpness on Cutting Time

In a study conducted by Oregon Tool, it was found that a sharp chain can reduce cutting time by up to 50% compared to a dull chain. This translates to significant time savings and reduced fuel consumption.

Personal Story: The “Dull Chain Disaster”

I once spent an entire day trying to fell a large oak tree with a dull chain. It was a nightmare. The chainsaw kept binding in the cut, the engine was straining, and I was exhausted. By the end of the day, I had barely made any progress. I finally gave up and went home, defeated. The next day, I sharpened the chain and went back to the tree. I felled it in less than an hour. This experience taught me a valuable lesson: never underestimate the importance of a sharp chain.

3. Wood Selection Criteria: Knowing Your Timber

Not all wood is created equal. Understanding the properties of different types of wood is essential for efficient and safe woodcutting. The type of wood you are cutting will affect the chainsaw’s performance, the cutting technique you use, and the final product you obtain.

Hardwoods vs. Softwoods

The most basic distinction is between hardwoods and softwoods.

Hardwoods: Generally denser and more difficult to cut than softwoods. They come from deciduous trees (trees that lose their leaves in the fall). Examples include oak, maple, hickory, and ash.
- Typical Uses: Firewood, furniture, flooring, construction.
- Cutting Considerations: Require a sharper chain and more power.
Softwoods: Generally less dense and easier to cut than hardwoods. They come from coniferous trees (trees that have needles and cones). Examples include pine, fir, spruce, and cedar.
- Typical Uses: Construction, paper pulp, firewood (some species).
- Cutting Considerations: Can be cut with a less sharp chain and less power.

Wood Moisture Content: The Key to Firewood Quality

Wood moisture content (MC) is the amount of water in the wood, expressed as a percentage of the wood’s dry weight. MC is a critical factor in determining the quality of firewood.

Freshly Cut Wood: Typically has an MC of 50% or higher.
Seasoned Wood: Has an MC of 20% or less.
Kiln-Dried Wood: Has an MC of 8-12%.

Why Moisture Content Matters

Burning Efficiency: Dry wood burns hotter and more efficiently than wet wood. Wet wood wastes energy evaporating water instead of producing heat.
Smoke Production: Wet wood produces excessive smoke, which is a nuisance and can be harmful to your health.
Creosote Buildup: Wet wood produces more creosote, a flammable substance that can build up in chimneys and cause chimney fires.

Technical Specifications: Recommended Moisture Content for Firewood

Hardwoods: 15-20% MC for optimal burning.
Softwoods: 12-18% MC for optimal burning.

Measuring Moisture Content

You can measure the MC of wood using a moisture meter. These devices are relatively inexpensive and easy to use. Simply insert the probes into the wood and the meter will display the MC.

Data Point: The Impact of Moisture Content on Heat Output

A study conducted by the University of Maine found that dry wood produces up to 50% more heat than wet wood. This means that you can burn less wood to achieve the same amount of heat, saving you time and money.

Personal Story: The “Smoky Firewood Fiasco”

I once bought a load of firewood from a local supplier without checking the moisture content. When I tried to burn it, it produced so much smoke that I couldn’t even stay in the room. I ended up having to let the wood season for an entire year before I could burn it. This experience taught me the importance of always checking the moisture content of firewood before buying it.

4. Felling Techniques: Precision and Safety First

Felling a tree is a dangerous task that requires careful planning and execution. I’ve seen too many accidents in the woods caused by carelessness and a lack of knowledge. Always prioritize safety and follow proper felling techniques to minimize the risk of injury.

Pre-Felling Assessment

Before you even start your chainsaw, take the time to assess the tree and its surroundings.

Tree Lean: Determine the direction of the tree’s natural lean. This will influence the direction in which the tree will fall.
Wind Direction: The wind can significantly affect the direction of the fall. Avoid felling trees in high winds.
Obstacles: Identify any obstacles that could interfere with the fall, such as power lines, buildings, or other trees.
Escape Route: Plan a clear escape route that is at a 45-degree angle away from the expected direction of the fall.

Felling Cuts: The Anatomy of a Tree Fall

The standard felling cut consists of three main cuts:

Notch Cut (Face Cut): This cut determines the direction of the fall. It consists of two cuts that form a notch in the tree.
- Open Face Notch: The most common type of notch cut. The top cut is angled downwards at 45 degrees and the bottom cut is horizontal.
- Humboldt Notch: Used for larger trees. The bottom cut is angled upwards at 45 degrees and the top cut is horizontal.
- Size of the Notch: The notch should be approximately 1/5 to 1/3 of the tree’s diameter.
Back Cut: This cut is made on the opposite side of the tree from the notch cut. It should be parallel to the horizontal cut of the notch.
- Leaving a Hinge: It is crucial to leave a hinge of uncut wood between the back cut and the notch cut. The hinge controls the direction of the fall and prevents the tree from kicking back.
- Hinge Thickness: The hinge should be approximately 1/10 of the tree’s diameter.
Felling Wedge (Optional): If the tree is leaning in the wrong direction or if you are concerned about the tree kicking back, you can use a felling wedge to help guide the fall.
- Placement: Insert the felling wedge into the back cut, behind the hinge.
- Driving the Wedge: Use a hammer or axe to drive the wedge into the back cut, gradually pushing the tree over.

Technical Specifications: Safe Felling Distances

Minimum Felling Distance: At least twice the height of the tree.
Danger Zone: The area within twice the height of the tree is considered the danger zone. No one should be in the danger zone during felling operations.

Data Point: The Leading Cause of Chainsaw Injuries

According to the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA), the leading cause of chainsaw injuries is kickback, followed by cuts to the legs and feet. Proper felling techniques and the use of personal protective equipment (PPE) can significantly reduce the risk of injury.

Personal Story: The “Near Miss”

I once witnessed a near-fatal accident while felling a tree. A logger was felling a large pine tree when the tree kicked back unexpectedly. The logger was knocked to the ground and narrowly missed being crushed by the tree. Fortunately, he was wearing a hard hat and safety glasses, which protected him from serious injury. This incident served as a stark reminder of the dangers of felling trees and the importance of following proper safety procedures.

5. Safety First: Gear Up and Stay Alert

Chainsaw work is inherently dangerous. Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE) and follow safe operating procedures to minimize the risk of injury. I can’t stress this enough: No job is worth risking your life or health.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Your First Line of Defense

Hard Hat: Protects your head from falling branches and debris.
Safety Glasses or Face Shield: Protects your eyes from flying chips and sawdust.
Hearing Protection: Protects your ears from the loud noise of the chainsaw.
Chainsaw Chaps or Pants: Protect your legs from chainsaw cuts.
Gloves: Protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and chainsaw cuts.

Safe Operating Procedures

Read the Owner’s Manual: Familiarize yourself with the chainsaw’s operating instructions and safety features.
Inspect the Chainsaw: Before each use, inspect the chainsaw for any damage or defects.
Start the Chainsaw Safely: Start the chainsaw on the ground, with the chain brake engaged.
Maintain a Firm Grip: Always hold the chainsaw with both hands, with your thumbs wrapped around the handles.
Keep a Clear Work Area: Remove any obstacles from your work area.
Be Aware of Your Surroundings: Pay attention to your surroundings and be aware of any potential hazards.
Take Breaks: Chainsaw work can be physically demanding. Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue.
Never Work Alone: Always work with a partner in case of an emergency.
Emergency Plan: Have a plan in place in case of an accident. Know how to call for help and provide first aid.

Technical Specifications: Chainsaw Safety Standards

OSHA Regulations: The Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) has specific regulations regarding chainsaw safety. Familiarize yourself with these regulations and follow them carefully.
ANSI Standards: The American National Standards Institute (ANSI) has developed standards for chainsaw safety. These standards provide guidelines for the design, manufacture, and use of chainsaws.

Data Point: The Effectiveness of Chainsaw Chaps

Studies have shown that chainsaw chaps can reduce the severity of chainsaw injuries by up to 80%. This is because the chaps are made of multiple layers of ballistic nylon, which can stop a moving chainsaw chain in its tracks.

Personal Story: The “Saved by the Chaps” Incident

I once had a close call while using a chainsaw to clear brush. I was cutting a small tree when the chainsaw kicked back and came dangerously close to my leg. Fortunately, I was wearing chainsaw chaps, which stopped the chain before it could cause any serious injury. I was left with a minor scratch, but it could have been much worse. This experience reinforced my belief in the importance of wearing PPE at all times when using a chainsaw.

By mastering these five pro woodcutting hacks, you’ll not only get more out of your Stihl 056 chainsaw but also work more safely and efficiently. Remember, knowledge is power, and safety is paramount. Go forth, conquer the wood, and respect the power of the machine in your hands.