Stihl 028 AV Super Chainsaw: Essential Tips for Woodcutting (5 Pro Tricks)
As a seasoned woodcutter, I’ve spent countless hours working with chainsaws, particularly the Stihl 028 AV Super. This model holds a special place in my toolkit due to its reliability and power. However, like any hardworking tool, it’s susceptible to wear and tear. Proper maintenance and knowing how to use it effectively are crucial for longevity and safety. In this guide, I’ll share five pro tricks I’ve learned over the years to help you get the most out of your Stihl 028 AV Super chainsaw, ensuring efficient woodcutting and extending the life of your saw.
Stihl 028 AV Super Chainsaw: Essential Tips for Woodcutting (5 Pro Tricks)
The Stihl 028 AV Super is a workhorse. It’s powerful enough for felling smaller trees and limbing, yet manageable for smaller firewood projects. However, its effectiveness depends heavily on proper technique and maintenance. Whether you’re a seasoned logger or a homeowner preparing for winter, these tips will enhance your woodcutting experience.
1. Mastering the Art of Chain Sharpening: Keeping Your Chain Sawing Smoothly
A dull chain is not only inefficient; it’s dangerous. It requires more force to cut, increasing the risk of kickback and operator fatigue. Proper chain sharpening is arguably the most critical aspect of chainsaw maintenance.
Why Sharpening Matters:
- Efficiency: A sharp chain cuts quickly and cleanly, reducing fuel consumption and saving you time.
- Safety: A sharp chain pulls itself into the wood, minimizing the risk of kickback. A dull chain tends to bounce, increasing the risk of injury.
- Saw Longevity: Forcing a dull chain puts unnecessary stress on the engine and bar, leading to premature wear.
Tools You’ll Need:
- Chainsaw File: A round file specifically sized for your chain’s pitch (typically 5/32″ or 3/16″ for the 028 AV Super).
- File Guide: A tool that helps maintain the correct filing angle and depth.
- Flat File: For filing the depth gauges (rakers).
- Depth Gauge Tool: A specialized tool to ensure consistent depth gauge height.
- Vise: To securely hold the chainsaw bar while sharpening.
Step-by-Step Sharpening Process:
- Secure the Bar: Place the chainsaw bar in a vise, ensuring the chain is accessible.
- Identify the Correct File Size: Refer to your chain manufacturer’s specifications for the correct file size. Using the wrong size can damage the chain.
- Set the Angle: Using the file guide, set the correct filing angle (typically 25-30 degrees).
- File Each Cutter: File each cutter from the inside out, using smooth, consistent strokes. Maintain the original angle and depth. Aim for the same number of strokes on each cutter to ensure uniform sharpening. I usually do about 3-5 strokes per tooth.
- Check and Adjust Depth Gauges (Rakers): Use the depth gauge tool to check the height of the depth gauges. If they are too high, file them down using the flat file. The depth gauge setting determines how much wood each cutter takes, and incorrect settings can lead to aggressive or ineffective cutting.
- Rotate the Chain: Advance the chain and repeat the process for each cutter.
- Final Check: After sharpening, inspect the chain for any damaged or uneven cutters.
Pro Tip: I always keep a small file and file guide with me in the field. A quick touch-up every few tankfuls of gas can make a huge difference in performance and prevent the need for more extensive sharpening later.
Personal Experience: I once tried to fell a medium-sized oak with a severely dull chain. It took me nearly twice as long, and I exhausted myself in the process. The saw was overheating, and the chain was smoking. After properly sharpening the chain, the difference was night and day. It sliced through the wood effortlessly, saving me time and energy.
2. Understanding Bar and Chain Maintenance: Ensuring Smooth Operation
The bar and chain are the heart of your chainsaw’s cutting system. Proper maintenance ensures smooth operation, reduces wear, and extends the life of both components.
Key Aspects of Bar and Chain Maintenance:
- Regular Cleaning: Sawdust and debris can accumulate in the bar groove and around the sprocket, hindering chain movement and causing excessive wear.
- Proper Lubrication: The chain needs constant lubrication to reduce friction and prevent overheating.
- Bar Inspection and Dressing: The bar rails can wear unevenly over time. Dressing the bar with a bar dressing tool helps maintain a flat, even surface for the chain to ride on.
- Chain Tensioning: Proper chain tension is crucial for safe and efficient cutting.
Detailed Steps:
- Cleaning the Bar: After each use, remove the chain and thoroughly clean the bar groove with a screwdriver or a specialized bar groove cleaner. Pay close attention to the oil holes, ensuring they are clear of debris.
- Lubrication: Use a high-quality bar and chain oil specifically designed for chainsaws. I prefer synthetic oils, especially in colder climates, as they flow better and provide superior lubrication. Check the oil level frequently and refill as needed. Adjust the oiler on your saw to match the wood you are cutting. Hardwoods require more oil than softwoods.
- Bar Dressing: Periodically inspect the bar rails for wear and burrs. Use a bar dressing tool (a flat file or a specialized bar rail grinder) to remove any imperfections and ensure the rails are flat and even. This prevents the chain from wobbling and ensures a straight cut.
- Chain Tensioning: The chain should be snug on the bar but still able to be pulled around by hand. When cold, the chain should have very little sag. When warm, the chain will expand, so a bit of sag is normal. To adjust the tension, loosen the bar nuts slightly, adjust the tensioning screw until the chain is properly tensioned, and then retighten the bar nuts securely. Always check the tension after the first few cuts, as the chain may stretch slightly.
Measurements and Specs:
- Bar Rail Height: Use a caliper to measure the bar rail height. Uneven wear of more than 0.020″ (0.5 mm) indicates the need for bar dressing.
- Chain Tension: The chain should have approximately 1/8″ (3 mm) of sag on the bottom of the bar when cold.
Case Study: I once neglected to properly clean and lubricate my chainsaw bar while cutting a large pile of firewood. The bar overheated, and the chain stretched excessively. Eventually, the bar rails became so worn that the chain kept derailing. I had to replace the bar prematurely, costing me time and money. This experience taught me the importance of consistent bar and chain maintenance.
Strategic Advantage: Consistent bar and chain maintenance not only extends the life of your equipment but also improves cutting performance and reduces the risk of accidents.
3. Perfecting Felling Techniques: Safe and Efficient Tree Cutting
Felling trees is one of the most dangerous aspects of woodcutting. Proper technique and planning are essential for safety and efficiency.
Key Felling Techniques:
- Planning the Fall: Assess the tree for lean, wind direction, and any obstacles in the path of the fall.
- Creating a Hinge: The hinge controls the direction of the fall.
- Using Felling Wedges: Wedges help to lift the tree and guide it in the desired direction.
Step-by-Step Felling Process:
- Assess the Tree: Look for the natural lean of the tree, wind direction, and any obstacles such as power lines, buildings, or other trees. Clear the area around the base of the tree of any brush or debris.
- Plan Your Escape Route: Identify two escape routes that are at a 45-degree angle away from the direction of the fall.
- Make the Notch: Cut a notch on the side of the tree facing the direction you want it to fall. The notch should be about one-third of the tree’s diameter. The top cut of the notch should be at a 45-degree angle, and the bottom cut should be horizontal.
- Make the Back Cut: Make the back cut on the opposite side of the tree, slightly above the horizontal cut of the notch. Leave a hinge of approximately 10% of the tree’s diameter. The hinge controls the direction of the fall.
- Insert Wedges: If the tree doesn’t start to fall on its own, insert felling wedges into the back cut and drive them in with a hammer or axe. The wedges will help to lift the tree and guide it in the desired direction.
- Retreat and Observe: As the tree begins to fall, retreat quickly along your planned escape route. Watch the tree carefully and be prepared to avoid any falling branches or debris.
Measurements and Specs:
- Notch Depth: One-third of the tree’s diameter.
- Hinge Thickness: 10% of the tree’s diameter.
- Escape Route Angle: 45 degrees away from the direction of the fall.
Safety Considerations:
- Wear appropriate safety gear: including a helmet, safety glasses, hearing protection, gloves, and chainsaw chaps.
- Never fell a tree alone: Always have someone nearby in case of an emergency.
- Be aware of your surroundings: Watch out for falling branches and debris.
- Never fell a tree in high winds: Wind can make it difficult to control the direction of the fall.
Personal Story: I once underestimated the lean of a tree and nearly had it fall in the wrong direction. Fortunately, I was able to use felling wedges to correct its course, but it was a close call. This experience taught me the importance of careful planning and assessment before felling any tree.
Strategic Advantage: Mastering felling techniques not only improves safety but also allows you to fell trees more efficiently and predictably.
4. Efficient Limbing and Bucking: Turning Trees into Usable Wood
Once a tree is felled, the next step is to limb and buck it into manageable sections. Limbing involves removing the branches from the trunk, while bucking involves cutting the trunk into desired lengths.
Key Techniques for Limbing and Bucking:
- Limbing Safely: Work from the base of the tree towards the top, keeping the trunk between you and the saw.
- Bucking Techniques: Use proper bucking techniques to avoid pinching the saw and ensure clean cuts.
- Choosing the Right Lengths: Cut the trunk into lengths that are appropriate for your intended use.
Detailed Steps:
- Limbing: Start at the base of the tree and work your way towards the top. Use the chainsaw to cut the branches close to the trunk. Be careful not to cut into the trunk. Keep the trunk between you and the saw to protect yourself from kickback.
- Bucking: Before bucking the trunk, assess the situation to determine if the trunk is under tension or compression. If the trunk is supported at both ends, it is under compression, and you should cut from the top. If the trunk is supported in the middle, it is under tension, and you should cut from the bottom. This will prevent the saw from pinching and ensure a clean cut.
- Measuring and Cutting: Use a measuring tape to mark the desired lengths on the trunk. Cut the trunk at the marked locations, using a consistent cutting motion.
Measurements and Specs:
- Firewood Length: Typically 16-18 inches (40-45 cm) for most wood stoves.
- Lumber Length: Depends on the intended use. Standard lumber lengths are 8, 10, and 12 feet (2.4, 3, and 3.7 meters).
Tools You’ll Need:
- Chainsaw: The Stihl 028 AV Super is well-suited for limbing and bucking.
- Measuring Tape: To measure the desired lengths.
- Axe or Hatchet: For splitting small pieces of wood.
- Cant Hook or Peavey: For rolling logs.
Case Study: I once tried to buck a large log without properly assessing the tension. The saw pinched, and I had to struggle to free it. I learned that taking a few extra seconds to analyze the situation can save a lot of time and effort.
Strategic Advantage: Efficient limbing and bucking techniques allow you to process trees quickly and safely, maximizing the yield of usable wood.
5. Optimizing Wood Splitting and Stacking: Preparing Firewood for Efficient Burning
Splitting and stacking firewood are essential steps in preparing wood for efficient burning. Proper splitting ensures that the wood dries quickly and burns evenly, while proper stacking promotes air circulation and prevents rot.
Key Techniques for Splitting and Stacking:
- Choosing the Right Tools: Use a splitting axe or a hydraulic log splitter for larger pieces of wood.
- Splitting Techniques: Split wood along the grain to minimize resistance.
- Stacking Methods: Stack wood in a way that promotes air circulation and prevents ground contact.
Detailed Steps:
- Splitting: Place the wood on a solid surface, such as a chopping block or a log round. If using a splitting axe, position the axe head along the grain of the wood and swing with a controlled motion. If using a hydraulic log splitter, place the wood on the splitter bed and activate the splitter.
- Stacking: Choose a location that is well-ventilated and exposed to sunlight. Stack the wood in rows, leaving space between the rows for air circulation. Elevate the wood off the ground using pallets or other supports. This will prevent the wood from absorbing moisture from the ground.
- Seasoning: Allow the wood to season (dry) for at least six months before burning. Seasoned wood burns more efficiently and produces less smoke.
Measurements and Specs:
- Moisture Content: Seasoned firewood should have a moisture content of 20% or less. Use a moisture meter to check the moisture content.
- Stacking Height: Limit the height of the stacks to a safe and manageable level.
Tools You’ll Need:
- Splitting Axe: For splitting smaller pieces of wood.
- Hydraulic Log Splitter: For splitting larger pieces of wood.
- Moisture Meter: To check the moisture content of the wood.
- Pallets or Other Supports: To elevate the wood off the ground.
Wood Types and Drying Times:
- Softwoods (Pine, Fir, Spruce): Dry relatively quickly, typically within 6-9 months.
- Hardwoods (Oak, Maple, Ash): Take longer to dry, typically 12-18 months.
Personal Experience: I used to stack my firewood in a haphazard pile on the ground. The wood took forever to dry, and much of it rotted before I could burn it. After learning about proper stacking techniques, I started stacking my wood in rows on pallets, and the difference was remarkable. The wood dried much faster, and I had significantly less waste.
Strategic Advantage: Optimizing wood splitting and stacking ensures that you have a ready supply of dry, efficient-burning firewood, saving you time and money.
By mastering these five pro tricks, you’ll not only extend the life of your Stihl 028 AV Super chainsaw but also improve your overall woodcutting efficiency and safety. Remember to always prioritize safety and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for your equipment.
Now that you’re armed with these essential tips, it’s time to put them into practice. Start by inspecting your chainsaw, sharpening the chain, and practicing your felling and bucking techniques in a safe and controlled environment. With a little practice and dedication, you’ll be well on your way to becoming a proficient woodcutter. Remember the importance of regular maintenance and the value of continuous learning. Woodcutting is a skill that improves with experience, so don’t be afraid to experiment and refine your techniques. Good luck, and happy cutting!