Split Rail Fence Lumber Basics (Sawmill Tips For Rustic Woodworking)

Ever looked at a rustic split rail fence and wondered, “How can I create that timeless charm myself?” Well, you’re in the right place. I’ve spent years milling lumber, working with wood, and yes, even wrestling with logs to create projects just like this. In this guide, I’ll share my sawmill tips and tricks for crafting your own split rail fence lumber. We’ll cover everything from selecting the right wood to mastering the milling process. Let’s dive in!

Split Rail Fence Lumber Basics (Sawmill Tips for Rustic Woodworking)

Understanding Split Rail Fences

Split rail fences, also known as “log fences” or “buck fences,” are a classic fencing option. They’re simple, durable, and offer a rustic aesthetic. Historically, they were quick to build, requiring minimal tools and no nails or fasteners. The rails are simply stacked or interlocked between posts.

Traditional Uses: Originally used for containing livestock, marking boundaries, and providing a visual barrier.
Modern Applications: Still used for farms and ranches, but also popular for decorative landscaping, garden borders, and adding a rustic touch to residential properties.
Material Options: Typically made from naturally rot-resistant woods like cedar, locust, and oak. Pine and fir can also be used but require treatment for longevity.

Why Mill Your Own Lumber?

Buying pre-made split rail fence sections is convenient, but milling your own lumber offers significant advantages:

Cost Savings: Milling your own lumber can be significantly cheaper, especially if you have access to standing timber.
Customization: You control the dimensions, species, and overall look of your fence.
Sustainability: Utilizing timber from your own property or locally sourced logs can be more environmentally friendly.
Satisfaction: There’s a unique sense of accomplishment in creating something beautiful and functional from raw materials.

I remember one time, a friend of mine wanted a massive, custom split rail fence for his property. The quotes he got from lumber yards were astronomical. We ended up milling the lumber ourselves from trees on his land, saving him a fortune and creating a truly unique fence that perfectly matched his vision. That experience cemented my belief in the power of milling your own lumber.

Selecting the Right Wood

The type of wood you choose is critical for the longevity and appearance of your split rail fence.

Key Considerations for Wood Selection

Natural Rot Resistance: This is the most important factor. Woods like cedar, locust, and oak contain natural oils and compounds that resist decay.
Strength: The wood should be strong enough to withstand weather and potential impact from animals or falling debris.
Workability: Some woods are easier to split and shape than others.
Availability: Consider what species are readily available in your area.
Cost: Prices vary significantly between species.

Popular Wood Species for Split Rail Fences

Species	Rot Resistance	Strength	Workability	Cost	Notes
Eastern Red Cedar	Excellent	Moderate	Good	Moderate	Aromatic, naturally insect-repellent, develops a beautiful silvery-gray patina over time.
Black Locust	Excellent	High	Difficult	High	Extremely durable, very hard and dense, can be challenging to split.
White Oak	Good	High	Moderate	Moderate	Strong and durable, but requires careful drying to prevent checking and warping.
Osage Orange	Excellent	Very High	Very Difficult	High	Known for its extreme durability and resistance to decay, but very challenging to work with. Often used for corner posts.
Pine (Treated)	Moderate	Moderate	Good	Low	Affordable, easy to work with, but requires pressure treatment with preservatives for long-term outdoor use. CCA (Chromated Copper Arsenate) treated lumber is being phased out in many areas due to health concerns.
Fir (Treated)	Moderate	Moderate	Good	Low	Similar to pine, requires pressure treatment.

Identifying Wood Species

Learning to identify different wood species is a valuable skill. Here are a few tips:

Bark: Observe the color, texture, and pattern of the bark.
Grain: Examine the grain pattern of the wood.
Color: Note the color of the heartwood and sapwood.
Smell: Some woods have distinctive aromas (e.g., cedar).
Leaf Shape: If the tree is still standing, identify it by its leaves.

I once misidentified a pile of logs as white oak when they were actually red oak. The difference? Red oak has open pores, making it less rot-resistant. It was a costly mistake, but it taught me the importance of careful identification.

Takeaway: Choose a wood species that balances rot resistance, strength, workability, and cost. Learn to identify different species to avoid costly mistakes.

Essential Sawmill Equipment

Milling your own lumber requires the right equipment. Here’s a rundown of the essentials:

Chainsaw Mill

A chainsaw mill is a portable milling attachment that turns your chainsaw into a lumber mill.

Types:
- Alaskan Mill: Attaches to the chainsaw bar and rides along a guide rail. Best for milling large logs.
- Edging Mill: Used for squaring up logs and creating boards with parallel edges.
Chainsaw Requirements: A powerful chainsaw with a long bar (at least 20 inches) is essential. Consider a dedicated milling chainsaw for optimal performance.
Pros: Portable, relatively inexpensive, can mill logs on-site.
Cons: Slower than a dedicated sawmill, requires more physical effort, produces more sawdust.

Portable Sawmill

A portable sawmill is a dedicated machine designed for milling lumber.

Types:
- Bandsaw Mill: Uses a thin, flexible blade to cut lumber. More efficient and produces less kerf (sawdust) than a chainsaw mill.
- Circular Sawmill: Uses a large circular blade to cut lumber. Faster than a bandsaw mill but produces more kerf.
Power Options: Gasoline, diesel, or electric.
Pros: More efficient than a chainsaw mill, produces more accurate cuts, less physical effort.
Cons: More expensive than a chainsaw mill, less portable.

Support Equipment

Log Turner: A manual or hydraulic tool for rotating logs on the mill.
Cant Hook: A long-handled lever with a hook for moving and positioning logs.
Measuring Tools: Tape measure, calipers, and a lumber scale for accurate measurements.
Sharpening Tools: Files, grinders, and honing stones for maintaining sharp blades.
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): Safety glasses, hearing protection, gloves, and steel-toed boots are essential.

I’ll never forget the first time I tried to mill a large oak log with a chainsaw mill and a dull chain. It was a grueling, frustrating experience. Investing in a good sharpening kit and learning how to properly sharpen my chains made a world of difference.

Takeaway: Choose a sawmill that fits your budget, needs, and the size of logs you plan to mill. Don’t skimp on support equipment or PPE.

Preparing Logs for Milling

Proper log preparation is crucial for efficient and safe milling.

Log Selection and Inspection

Choose Straight Logs: Logs with minimal sweep (curvature) and taper (change in diameter) are easier to mill.
Inspect for Metal: Use a metal detector to check for nails, wire, or other metal embedded in the log. Metal can damage your saw blade and create a safety hazard.
Remove Bark: Removing bark can help extend the life of your saw blade and reduce the risk of contaminants entering the wood.

Log Debarking Techniques

Manual Debarking: Using a drawknife or spud to peel the bark off the log.
Mechanical Debarking: Using a debarking machine, which is more efficient for large volumes of logs.
High-Pressure Water: Using a pressure washer with a specialized nozzle to blast the bark off the log.

Log Placement and Securing

Position the Log: Place the log on the mill so that the straightest side is facing up.
Secure the Log: Use clamps, wedges, or log dogs to hold the log firmly in place.
Level the Log: Ensure the log is level to achieve consistent board thickness.

I learned the hard way about the importance of inspecting logs for metal. I once hit a hidden nail with my chainsaw mill, which sent sparks flying and ruined my chain. Now, I always use a metal detector before milling any log.

Takeaway: Select straight, clean logs and remove any metal or debris before milling. Secure the log properly on the mill to prevent movement during cutting.

Milling Techniques for Split Rail Fence Lumber

Milling split rail fence lumber is different from milling standard dimensional lumber. The goal is to create rails that are roughly rectangular or square in cross-section.

Chainsaw Milling Process

Set Up the Mill: Attach the chainsaw mill to your chainsaw and adjust the guide rail to the desired board thickness.
Make the First Cut: Position the mill on the log and make the first cut along the length of the log. This will create a flat surface.
Rotate the Log: Rotate the log 90 degrees and make another cut to create a second flat surface.
Continue Milling: Repeat the process until you have milled the log into a square or rectangular cant.
Split the Cant: Use wedges, a maul, or a hydraulic splitter to split the cant into individual rails.

Portable Sawmill Process

Load the Log: Load the log onto the sawmill bed and secure it in place.
Make the First Cut: Set the blade height to the desired board thickness and make the first cut along the length of the log.
Rotate the Log: Rotate the log 90 degrees and make another cut to create a second flat surface.
Continue Milling: Repeat the process until you have milled the log into a square or rectangular cant.
Split the Cant: Use wedges, a maul, or a hydraulic splitter to split the cant into individual rails.

Splitting Techniques

Wedges and Maul: Drive wedges into the end of the cant using a maul to split it along the grain.
Hydraulic Splitter: Use a hydraulic splitter to split the cant into individual rails. This is faster and easier than using wedges and a maul, especially for large cants.
Froes: A froe is a specialized tool for splitting wood along the grain. It consists of a blade with a handle and is used in conjunction with a mallet.

I’ve found that using a hydraulic splitter is a game-changer when milling large quantities of split rail fence lumber. It saves a lot of time and energy compared to using wedges and a maul.

Rail Dimensions

The dimensions of your split rail fence rails will depend on your desired fence height and style.

Typical Rail Length: 8 to 16 feet.
Typical Rail Width: 4 to 8 inches.
Typical Rail Thickness: 4 to 6 inches.

Takeaway: Use a systematic milling process to create square or rectangular cants. Split the cants into individual rails using wedges, a maul, or a hydraulic splitter. Adjust rail dimensions to suit your fence design.

Drying and Seasoning Lumber

Proper drying and seasoning are essential for preventing warping, cracking, and decay in your split rail fence lumber.

Air Drying

Air drying is the most common method for drying lumber.

Stacking Lumber: Stack the lumber on stickers (thin strips of wood) to allow air to circulate around each piece.
Location: Choose a well-ventilated, shaded area away from direct sunlight and rain.
Drying Time: Air drying can take several months to a year, depending on the species, thickness, and climate.
Moisture Content: Aim for a moisture content of 12-15% for outdoor use.

Kiln Drying

Kiln drying is a faster method for drying lumber.

Controlled Environment: Lumber is placed in a kiln where temperature, humidity, and airflow are carefully controlled.
Drying Time: Kiln drying can take several days to a few weeks, depending on the species and thickness.
Moisture Content: Kiln drying can achieve a lower moisture content than air drying (6-8%), which is ideal for indoor use.
Cost: Kiln drying is more expensive than air drying.

Checking Moisture Content

Moisture Meter: Use a moisture meter to measure the moisture content of the lumber. Insert the probes into the wood and read the percentage.
Drying Schedule: Create a drying schedule based on the species and thickness of the lumber. Monitor the moisture content regularly and adjust the schedule as needed.

I once built a split rail fence using lumber that wasn’t properly dried. Within a few months, the rails started to warp and crack. It was a frustrating experience that taught me the importance of patient and thorough drying.

Storing Dried Lumber

Keep it Dry: Store dried lumber in a dry, well-ventilated area.
Protect from Sun: Protect the lumber from direct sunlight to prevent discoloration and warping.
Stack Properly: Stack the lumber on stickers to allow for air circulation.

Takeaway: Dry your lumber properly to prevent warping, cracking, and decay. Air drying is a cost-effective option, while kiln drying is faster and achieves a lower moisture content. Store dried lumber in a dry, well-ventilated area.

Treating Lumber for Longevity

Even naturally rot-resistant woods can benefit from treatment to extend their lifespan.

Pressure Treatment

Pressure treatment involves forcing preservatives into the wood under high pressure.

Chemicals Used: Common preservatives include chromated copper arsenate (CCA), alkaline copper quaternary (ACQ), and copper azole (CA).
Benefits: Provides excellent protection against rot, insects, and fungal decay.
Considerations: CCA is being phased out in many areas due to health concerns. ACQ and CA are considered safer alternatives.

Surface Treatments

Surface treatments involve applying a preservative to the surface of the wood.

Types:
- Oil-Based Preservatives: Penetrate the wood and provide water repellency.
- Water-Based Preservatives: Easy to apply and clean up.
- Borate Preservatives: Effective against insects and fungal decay.
Application: Apply the preservative with a brush, roller, or sprayer.
Maintenance: Reapply the preservative every few years to maintain protection.

Natural Treatments

Natural treatments involve using natural oils and compounds to protect the wood.

Linseed Oil: Penetrates the wood and provides water repellency.
Tung Oil: Similar to linseed oil but more durable.
Cedar Oil: Contains natural insect-repellent properties.
Application: Apply the oil with a brush or cloth.
Maintenance: Reapply the oil regularly to maintain protection.

I’ve experimented with various wood treatments over the years. While pressure-treated lumber offers the best protection, I prefer using natural treatments like linseed oil for a more environmentally friendly approach.

Choosing the Right Treatment

Consider the Species: Some species are more receptive to certain treatments than others.
Consider the Environment: If the fence will be exposed to harsh weather conditions, a more durable treatment may be necessary.
Consider Your Preferences: Choose a treatment that aligns with your values and priorities.

Takeaway: Consider treating your lumber to extend its lifespan. Pressure treatment offers the best protection, while surface treatments and natural treatments are viable alternatives. Choose a treatment that suits your species, environment, and preferences.

Building Your Split Rail Fence

With your lumber milled, dried, and treated, you’re ready to build your split rail fence.

Post Placement

Spacing: Space the posts 8 to 10 feet apart.
Depth: Dig post holes deep enough to bury at least one-third of the post length.
Setting the Posts: Set the posts in concrete or compacted gravel.

Rail Installation

Types of Connections:
- Mortise and Tenon: A traditional method that involves cutting mortises (holes) in the posts and tenons (projections) on the rails.
- Notched Posts: Notches are cut into the posts to hold the rails.
- Wire or Metal Fasteners: Rails are attached to the posts using wire or metal fasteners.
Stacking Rails: Simply stack the rails between the posts.
Securing Rails: Use wire, metal fasteners, or wooden pegs to secure the rails to the posts.

Corner Post Considerations

Bracing: Corner posts are subject to greater stress than line posts. Brace corner posts with diagonal supports to prevent leaning.
Larger Posts: Use larger diameter posts for corner posts to provide additional strength.

Gate Installation

Gate Posts: Use sturdy gate posts that are well-anchored in the ground.
Gate Hardware: Install hinges, latches, and other gate hardware.
Gate Design: Design the gate to match the style of the fence.

I’ve found that using notched posts is a simple and effective way to build a split rail fence. It eliminates the need for mortise and tenon joints, which can be time-consuming to create.

Maintaining Your Split Rail Fence

Regular Inspections: Inspect the fence regularly for signs of damage or decay.
Replace Damaged Rails: Replace any damaged or decayed rails promptly.
Reapply Treatment: Reapply wood treatment as needed to maintain protection.
Clear Vegetation: Clear vegetation around the fence to prevent moisture buildup and rot.

Takeaway: Plan your post placement carefully and choose a rail installation method that suits your skills and resources. Pay special attention to corner posts and gate installation. Maintain your fence regularly to extend its lifespan.

Safety Considerations

Working with chainsaws, sawmills, and heavy lumber can be dangerous. Always prioritize safety.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

Safety Glasses: Protect your eyes from flying debris.
Hearing Protection: Protect your ears from loud noises.
Gloves: Protect your hands from cuts and splinters.
Steel-Toed Boots: Protect your feet from falling logs and equipment.
Hard Hat: Protect your head from falling branches and debris.
Chainsaw Chaps: Protect your legs from chainsaw cuts.

Chainsaw Safety

Read the Manual: Understand the operation and safety features of your chainsaw.
Maintain the Chainsaw: Keep the chain sharp and the chainsaw in good working condition.
Use Proper Techniques: Use proper cutting techniques to avoid kickback and other hazards.
Clear the Area: Clear the area around the chainsaw before starting.
Never Cut Above Your Head: Avoid cutting above your head, as this can be dangerous.

Sawmill Safety

Read the Manual: Understand the operation and safety features of your sawmill.
Maintain the Sawmill: Keep the blades sharp and the sawmill in good working condition.
Use Proper Techniques: Use proper cutting techniques to avoid kickback and other hazards.
Clear the Area: Clear the area around the sawmill before starting.
Never Reach Over the Blade: Avoid reaching over the blade while the sawmill is running.

Log Handling Safety

Use Proper Lifting Techniques: Lift logs with your legs, not your back.
Use Log Handling Tools: Use cant hooks, log tongs, and other log handling tools to move logs safely.
Be Aware of Pinch Points: Be aware of pinch points when moving logs.
Never Work Alone: Always work with a partner when handling heavy logs.

I’ve had a few close calls over the years, and they’ve all reinforced the importance of following safety procedures. Always take the time to assess the risks and take precautions before starting any wood processing project.

Takeaway: Always wear appropriate PPE when working with chainsaws, sawmills, and heavy lumber. Follow safe operating procedures and be aware of potential hazards. Never compromise on safety.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Even with careful planning and execution, you may encounter issues when milling and building your split rail fence. Here are some common problems and solutions:

Chainsaw Milling Issues

Dull Chain: Sharpen the chain or replace it with a new one.
Chain Binding: Ensure the chain is properly lubricated and the log is properly secured.
Uneven Cuts: Adjust the guide rail and ensure the chainsaw is properly aligned.
Overheating: Allow the chainsaw to cool down periodically and use a high-quality chainsaw oil.

Sawmill Issues

Blade Dull: Sharpen the blade or replace it with a new one.
Blade Wandering: Adjust the blade guides and ensure the blade is properly tensioned.
Uneven Cuts: Adjust the blade height and ensure the log is properly leveled.
Vibration: Check for loose bolts and ensure the sawmill is properly leveled.

Lumber Drying Issues

Warping: Stack the lumber properly on stickers and ensure the drying area is well-ventilated.
Cracking: Slow down the drying process and ensure the lumber is not exposed to direct sunlight.
Mold Growth: Ensure the drying area is well-ventilated and consider using a fungicide.
Uneven Drying: Rotate the lumber periodically to ensure even drying.

Fence Building Issues

Posts Leaning: Brace the posts with diagonal supports and ensure the post holes are deep enough.
Rails Sagging: Use stronger rails or add additional posts to reduce the span.
Gate Sagging: Use sturdy gate posts and install gate hardware properly.
Loose Connections: Tighten the connections or replace damaged fasteners.

I once spent hours trying to mill a log with a dull chain, only to realize that I was wasting my time and energy. Sharpening the chain made a world of difference and allowed me to complete the job quickly and efficiently.

Takeaway: Be prepared to troubleshoot common issues that may arise during milling, drying, and fence building. Address problems promptly to avoid further complications.

Conclusion

Building a split rail fence from milled lumber is a rewarding experience. It allows you to create a unique and rustic fence that reflects your personal style and values. By following the tips and techniques outlined in this guide, you can successfully mill your own lumber, dry it properly, and build a durable and beautiful split rail fence that will last for years to come. So, grab your chainsaw, sharpen your blades, and get ready to create something truly special. The satisfaction of seeing your own split rail fence, crafted from trees you selected and milled yourself, is an experience I highly recommend. Happy milling!