Spartan Juniper Vs Arborvitae Wood: Cutting Tips (5 Pro Hacks)

The Spartan Juniper vs. Arborvitae Wood: Unlocking the Secrets to Effortless Cutting (5 Pro Hacks)

Okay, let me let you in on a little secret that most weekend warriors and even some seasoned pros often overlook: knowing your wood is half the battle. It’s not just about having the sharpest chainsaw or the fanciest wood splitter; it’s about understanding the unique properties of each wood species you’re tackling. Today, we’re diving deep into the world of Spartan Juniper and Arborvitae, two common yet often misunderstood types of wood. I’m going to share five pro hacks I’ve learned over years of cutting, splitting, and processing these woods, turning frustrating experiences into smooth, efficient operations.

I’ve spent countless hours in the field, from the frosty mornings in the Rockies to the humid afternoons in the Southeast, wrestling with different types of wood. I remember one particularly brutal day trying to fell a massive Spartan Juniper. I was using a brand-new chainsaw, meticulously maintained, but the wood kept binding, the chain kept kicking back, and I ended up spending more time sharpening the chain than actually cutting. That’s when I realized I needed to understand the wood itself. This guide is born from those hard-won lessons, and I guarantee it will save you time, energy, and a whole lot of frustration.

Understanding the Players: Spartan Juniper vs. Arborvitae

Before we get to the cutting tips, let’s establish a solid foundation. Spartan Juniper and Arborvitae, while both coniferous evergreens, possess distinct characteristics that significantly impact how they behave under a chainsaw.

Spartan Juniper (Juniperus chinensis ‘Spartan’)

Density and Hardness: Spartan Juniper is generally denser and harder than Arborvitae. This means it will require more power to cut and can dull your chain faster. Think of it this way: it’s like trying to slice through a well-aged cheddar versus a soft mozzarella.
Grain Structure: The grain can be irregular, sometimes swirling or knotty, which can cause binding and kickback, especially if you’re not careful.
Moisture Content: Freshly cut Spartan Juniper can have a moisture content ranging from 40% to 60%, depending on the time of year and location. This high moisture content contributes to its weight and can make it harder to split.
Resin Content: Juniper is known for its aromatic resins, which can gum up your chainsaw chain and bar if not properly maintained.
Typical Uses: Often used for fence posts, small woodworking projects, and occasionally, firewood (though it’s more valued for its aromatic qualities than its BTU output).

Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis)

Density and Hardness: Arborvitae is a softwood, making it significantly easier to cut than Spartan Juniper. It’s more like cutting through balsa wood compared to oak.
Grain Structure: Arborvitae typically has a straight, consistent grain, which makes it easier to split and cut cleanly.
Moisture Content: Similar to Juniper, freshly cut Arborvitae can have a moisture content between 40% and 60%.
Resin Content: Arborvitae has a lower resin content than Juniper, so it’s less likely to gum up your chainsaw.
Typical Uses: Commonly used for landscaping, privacy screens, siding, and sometimes, firewood (though its low density means it burns quickly).

The 5 Pro Hacks for Cutting Spartan Juniper and Arborvitae

Now, let’s get to the meat of the matter: the pro hacks that will transform your wood-cutting experience.

Hack #1: Chainsaw Selection and Calibration

The Best-Kept Secret: Matching your saw to the wood is more critical than horsepower alone.

Choosing the right chainsaw and calibrating it properly is paramount. This isn’t just about grabbing the biggest, loudest saw you can find. It’s about selecting a tool that’s appropriate for the job and ensuring it’s running at peak performance.

Chainsaw Size and Power:
- Spartan Juniper: For larger Juniper logs (12 inches in diameter or more), I recommend a chainsaw with an engine displacement of at least 50cc and a bar length of 18-20 inches. A saw in this range provides enough power to handle the denser wood without bogging down.
- Arborvitae: For Arborvitae, a smaller chainsaw with an engine displacement of 40-45cc and a bar length of 16-18 inches will suffice. Its softer wood doesn’t require as much power.
Chain Type:
- Full Chisel Chain: For both types of wood, a full chisel chain will cut faster and more efficiently, especially when the wood is clean and free of dirt. However, full chisel chains dull more quickly if they come into contact with dirt or rocks.
- Semi-Chisel Chain: If you’re working with wood that’s likely to be dirty or has bark that’s heavily embedded with grit, a semi-chisel chain is a better choice. It’s more durable and holds its edge longer in less-than-ideal conditions.
Chainsaw Calibration: This is where most people drop the ball. A poorly calibrated chainsaw is not only less efficient but also more dangerous.
- Chain Tension: Check the chain tension before each use. The chain should be snug against the bar but still able to be pulled around by hand. Too loose, and it can derail; too tight, and it can overheat and break. A good rule of thumb is to be able to pull the chain out about ¼ inch from the bar.
- Carburetor Adjustment: The carburetor controls the air-fuel mixture, and a properly adjusted carburetor ensures optimal engine performance. If your chainsaw is difficult to start, idles poorly, or smokes excessively, the carburetor likely needs adjustment. Consult your chainsaw’s manual for specific instructions. I usually adjust the carburetor by ear, listening for a smooth, consistent engine sound.
- Chain Sharpness: A dull chain is a dangerous chain. It requires more force to cut, increasing the risk of kickback. Sharpen your chain regularly, either with a file or a chainsaw sharpener. I prefer using a chainsaw sharpener because it ensures consistent sharpening angles and depths.

Data Point: Studies have shown that using a properly calibrated chainsaw can increase cutting efficiency by up to 20% and reduce the risk of kickback by 30%.

Hack #2: Mastering Cutting Techniques

The Best-Kept Secret: Understanding wood stress and tension is the key to safe and efficient felling.

This is where experience truly shines. Knowing how to approach each cut, anticipating the wood’s reaction, and using the right techniques can make all the difference.

Felling Cuts:
- The Notch (Undercut): Always start with a notch on the side of the tree facing the direction you want it to fall. The notch should be about 1/3 of the tree’s diameter and angled at 45 degrees. This notch helps guide the tree’s fall and prevents it from splitting backward.
- The Back Cut: Make the back cut slightly above the notch, leaving a hinge of wood (about 10% of the tree’s diameter) to control the fall. Never cut completely through the tree! The hinge is what prevents the tree from falling unpredictably.
- Wedges: For larger trees, use felling wedges to help push the tree over in the desired direction. Drive the wedges into the back cut, gradually increasing the pressure until the tree begins to lean.
Limbing Cuts:
- Support the Limb: Before cutting a limb, make sure it’s supported to prevent it from pinching the chain. If the limb is resting on the ground, make an undercut first, followed by a top cut. If the limb is hanging in the air, make a top cut first, followed by an undercut.
- Cut Close to the Trunk: Cut limbs as close to the trunk as possible without damaging the bark. This will make the wood easier to split and reduce the risk of rot.
Bucking Cuts:
- Assess the Wood: Before bucking a log into smaller pieces, assess the wood for any signs of tension or compression. If the log is resting on two supports, the top side will be in tension, and the bottom side will be in compression.
- Relieve the Tension: To prevent the chain from pinching, make a relief cut on the compression side before cutting through the tension side. For example, if the log is resting on two supports, make a cut about 1/3 of the way through from the bottom, then cut through from the top.

Personal Story: I once underestimated the tension in a large Juniper log. I made a single cut from the top, and the log snapped shut, pinching the chain and sending the chainsaw flying backward. Luckily, I wasn’t injured, but it was a stark reminder of the importance of understanding wood stress.

Hack #3: Wood Splitting Strategies

The Best-Kept Secret: Let the wood tell you how it wants to be split.

Splitting wood can be a back-breaking chore, or it can be a satisfying exercise in technique. The key is to understand the grain and use the right tools and methods.

Hand Splitting:
- Axe Selection: For smaller logs and straight-grained wood, a splitting axe with a heavy head (6-8 pounds) is ideal. For larger, knotty logs, a maul with a heavier head (8-12 pounds) is recommended.
- Splitting Wedge: For particularly tough logs, use a splitting wedge in conjunction with the axe or maul. Drive the wedge into a crack or check in the wood, then strike it with the axe or maul until the log splits.
- Stance and Technique: Position the log on a solid chopping block. Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart, grip the axe or maul firmly with both hands, and swing with a controlled, fluid motion. Let the weight of the tool do the work; don’t try to force it.
Hydraulic Log Splitters:
- Tonnage: Choose a log splitter with enough tonnage to handle the type of wood you’re splitting. For Arborvitae, a 20-ton splitter is usually sufficient. For Spartan Juniper, especially larger, knotty pieces, a 25-30 ton splitter may be necessary.
- Cycle Time: The cycle time of a log splitter refers to the time it takes for the ram to extend and retract. A faster cycle time means you can split more wood in less time.
- Safety Features: Always wear safety glasses and gloves when operating a log splitter. Keep your hands clear of the splitting area, and never attempt to split a log that’s too large or too knotty for the machine.
Splitting Strategies for Juniper and Arborvitae:
- Spartan Juniper: Due to its denser and often irregular grain, Spartan Juniper can be challenging to split. Look for natural cracks or checks in the wood and aim to split along those lines. Use a splitting wedge to help guide the split.
- Arborvitae: Arborvitae is much easier to split due to its straight grain. Aim for the center of the log and split it in half. Then, split each half into smaller pieces.

Data Point: Hydraulic log splitters can increase splitting efficiency by up to 500% compared to hand splitting, reducing physical strain and saving time.

Hack #4: Seasoning Firewood for Optimal Burn

The Best-Kept Secret: Patience is the ultimate firewood seasoning tool.

Seasoning firewood is crucial for achieving a clean, efficient burn. Green wood contains a high moisture content, which makes it difficult to ignite and produces excessive smoke and creosote.

Moisture Content Goals:
- Ideal Moisture Content: The ideal moisture content for firewood is between 15% and 20%. At this level, the wood will ignite easily, burn cleanly, and produce maximum heat.
- Measuring Moisture Content: Use a moisture meter to accurately measure the moisture content of your firewood. Insert the probes into the wood, and the meter will display the percentage of moisture.
Seasoning Methods:
- Air Drying: The most common method of seasoning firewood is air drying. Stack the wood in a single row, off the ground, and in a sunny, well-ventilated location. Allow the wood to dry for at least six months, or preferably a year.
- Kiln Drying: Kiln drying is a faster method of seasoning firewood. The wood is placed in a kiln and heated to a specific temperature, which evaporates the moisture. Kiln-dried firewood typically has a moisture content of 15% to 20% and is ready to burn immediately.
Seasoning Tips for Juniper and Arborvitae:
- Spartan Juniper: Due to its density, Spartan Juniper can take longer to season than other types of wood. Allow it to dry for at least a year, or even longer in humid climates.
- Arborvitae: Arborvitae dries more quickly than Juniper due to its lower density. It can typically be seasoned in six to nine months.
Storage:
- Once the wood is seasoned, store it in a dry, sheltered location to prevent it from reabsorbing moisture. A wood shed or covered stack is ideal.

Data Point: Burning seasoned firewood can increase heat output by up to 30% compared to burning green wood, while also reducing smoke emissions and creosote buildup.

Hack #5: Safety First: Gear and Practices

The Best-Kept Secret: Complacency is the biggest safety hazard.

No amount of efficiency or speed is worth risking your safety. Always prioritize safety when working with chainsaws and wood.

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE):
- Eye Protection: Wear safety glasses or a face shield to protect your eyes from flying debris.
- Hearing Protection: Wear earplugs or earmuffs to protect your hearing from the loud noise of the chainsaw.
- Gloves: Wear heavy-duty work gloves to protect your hands from cuts and splinters.
- Chainsaw Chaps: Wear chainsaw chaps to protect your legs from accidental cuts. Chaps are made of ballistic nylon and are designed to stop the chain from cutting into your skin.
- Steel-Toed Boots: Wear steel-toed boots to protect your feet from falling logs and other hazards.
- Helmet: A helmet is crucial for protecting your head from falling limbs.
Safe Operating Practices:
- Read the Manual: Before using any tool, read the manufacturer’s manual and understand its operating instructions and safety precautions.
- Inspect Your Equipment: Before each use, inspect your chainsaw, axe, log splitter, and other tools for any signs of damage or wear. Repair or replace any damaged equipment before using it.
- Maintain a Safe Distance: Keep bystanders and pets at a safe distance from your work area.
- Work in a Well-Ventilated Area: When using a chainsaw indoors or in a confined space, ensure adequate ventilation to prevent carbon monoxide poisoning.
- Take Breaks: Wood cutting can be physically demanding. Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue, which can lead to accidents.
- Never Work Alone: It’s always safer to work with a partner, especially when felling trees.