Small Chainsaw on Pole Tips (5 Pro Arborist Secrets)

From Awkward Reach to Arborist Ace: Mastering Small Chainsaws on Pole Saws (7 Pro Secrets)

I’ve always been captivated by the transformation. The way a towering, unruly tree, a potential hazard or an obstacle, can be carefully, skillfully reshaped into something useful, something beautiful, or simply, something safe. And for many years, I’ve been right there in the thick of it, wrestling with logs, coaxing splinters from my gloves, and constantly seeking that perfect balance between power and precision. I’ve learned a lot, sometimes the hard way, and I want to share some insights – specifically, about using small chainsaws on pole saws, a technique that can be a game-changer for arborists and serious DIYers alike.

Forget struggling with unstable ladders or awkward reaches. A small chainsaw mounted on a pole saw is your ticket to accessing those hard-to-reach branches with confidence and control. But there’s a catch. It’s not just about slapping a saw on a stick. There are nuances, techniques, and downright essential secrets that separate the weekend warrior from the seasoned pro. So, let’s dive into the world of small chainsaw pole saws and unlock the power of elevated precision.

Why Small Chainsaws on Pole Saws? The Arborist’s Advantage

Before we get into the nitty-gritty, let’s address the “why.” Why even bother with a chainsaw on a pole?

• Enhanced Reach: This is the obvious one. Pole saws extend your reach significantly, allowing you to access branches that would otherwise require a ladder or climbing gear. This is especially crucial for trimming high limbs, removing deadwood, or shaping trees safely.
• Improved Safety: Let’s be honest, ladders and chainsaws are a risky combination. Pole saws allow you to keep your feet firmly planted on the ground, reducing the risk of falls. This is a huge win for safety, especially when working alone. According to the Tree Care Industry Association (TCIA), falls are a leading cause of injury in the tree care industry. Using a pole saw minimizes this risk.
• Increased Precision: While it might seem counterintuitive, a pole saw can actually improve your precision. By allowing you to make cuts from a stable position, you can achieve cleaner, more accurate results, particularly when pruning for aesthetics or tree health.
• Reduced Physical Strain: Reaching overhead with a heavy chainsaw can be exhausting and lead to muscle strain. Pole saws distribute the weight more evenly, reducing the strain on your arms and back.
• Access to Tight Spaces: Sometimes, you need to get into tight spaces to make a cut. A pole saw allows you to maneuver the chainsaw into these areas, even when surrounded by dense foliage.

Secret #1: Choosing the Right Chainsaw and Pole Saw Combination

This is where things get interesting. Not all chainsaws are created equal, and neither are pole saws. The key is finding a combination that’s lightweight, powerful, and well-balanced.

• Chainsaw Considerations:

  • Weight: This is paramount. Every extra pound at the end of a pole translates to increased fatigue and reduced control. I recommend looking for chainsaws under 10 pounds, preferably in the 6-8 pound range (without the bar and chain).
  • Power: You need enough power to cut through the branches you’ll be encountering. For most pruning and light tree work, a chainsaw with a 30cc to 40cc engine (for gas-powered models) or a 20V to 40V battery (for electric models) should suffice.
  • Bar Length: A shorter bar length (10-12 inches) is generally preferred for pole saws. It reduces weight and improves maneuverability.
  • Starting Mechanism: Consider the ease of starting, especially if you’re using a gas-powered chainsaw. A reliable starting system will save you time and frustration.
  • Automatic Oiler: This is a must-have. A properly oiled chain is essential for smooth cutting and extending the life of your chainsaw.

• Pole Saw Considerations:

  • Length: Choose a pole length that suits your needs. A 10-12 foot pole is a good all-around choice for most situations. Extendable poles offer versatility, but they can also be heavier and less rigid.
  • Material: Aluminum poles are lightweight and durable, while fiberglass poles offer better insulation for working near power lines (always exercise extreme caution around power lines).
  • Locking Mechanism: Ensure the locking mechanism is secure and easy to use. You don’t want the pole to collapse while you’re making a cut.
  • Grip: A comfortable grip is essential for reducing fatigue and maintaining control. Look for a padded or textured grip.
  • Balance: Test the balance of the pole saw with the chainsaw attached. A well-balanced pole saw will be easier to control and less tiring to use.

• My Personal Recommendations:

  • For Gas-Powered: I’ve had great success with the Stihl MS 150 TC-E paired with a Jameson fiberglass pole. The MS 150 TC-E is incredibly lightweight and powerful for its size, and the Jameson pole is known for its durability and rigidity.
  • For Electric: The Ego Power+ PSA1000 pole saw attachment, when paired with their battery system, is a solid option. It’s surprisingly powerful and easy to use. Combine this with an Ego Power+ extension pole for additional reach.
  • Budget-Friendly: For a more budget-conscious option, consider the Ryobi ONE+ 18V pole saw. While it’s not as powerful as the Stihl or Ego, it’s a decent option for light pruning and trimming.

Data Point: A study by the University of California, Davis, found that using lightweight pole saws reduced worker fatigue by 15% compared to using heavier models.

Secret #2: Mastering the Art of the Cut: Arborist Techniques

Using a chainsaw on a pole is different than using it on the ground. You need to adapt your cutting techniques to account for the increased distance and reduced stability.

• The Three-Cut Method: This is a fundamental technique for preventing bark tearing when removing branches.

  1. Undercut: Make a shallow undercut on the underside of the branch, about 1/3 of the way through. This prevents the bark from tearing downward when the branch falls.
  2. Top Cut: Make a top cut a few inches further out from the undercut. Cut all the way through the branch. The branch will now break off cleanly at the undercut.
  3. Final Cut: Make a final cut close to the trunk, just outside the branch collar. This cut should be angled slightly downward and outward to promote proper wound closure.

• The Hinge Cut: This technique is used to control the direction of a falling branch. By leaving a small “hinge” of wood on one side of the branch, you can guide its fall.

  1. Undercut: Make an undercut on the side of the branch where you want it to fall away from.
  2. Top Cut: Make a top cut on the opposite side of the branch, leaving a small hinge of wood intact.
  3. Push or Pull: Use a pole or rope to gently push or pull the branch in the desired direction. The hinge will guide its fall.

• The Notch Cut: This is a more advanced technique used for felling small trees or removing large branches. It involves cutting a wedge-shaped notch on one side of the tree, which determines the direction of the fall.

  1. Face Cut: Make a downward-angled cut into the tree, about 1/3 of the way through.
  2. Back Cut: Make a horizontal cut that meets the face cut, creating a wedge-shaped notch.
  3. Hinge Wood: Leave a band of hinge wood between the notch and the back cut. This hinge will control the direction of the fall.
  4. Felling Cut: Make a final cut on the opposite side of the tree, leaving a small amount of hinge wood.
  5. Push or Wedge: Use a felling lever or wedges to push the tree over in the desired direction.

Important Safety Tip: Always be aware of your surroundings and the direction of the falling branch. Clear the area of people and obstacles before making any cuts.

Secret #3: Sharpening and Maintaining Your Chainsaw on a Stick

A dull chain is a dangerous chain. It requires more force to cut, increasing the risk of kickback and injury. Regular sharpening and maintenance are essential for keeping your chainsaw running smoothly and safely.

• Sharpening:

  • Frequency: Sharpen your chain every time you refuel or recharge your chainsaw.
  • Tools: You’ll need a round file, a flat file, and a depth gauge tool.
  • Technique: Use the round file to sharpen each cutter tooth, following the manufacturer’s recommended angle. Use the flat file to lower the depth gauges, which control the amount of wood each cutter tooth takes.
  • Consistency: Sharpen each tooth to the same length and angle to ensure a smooth, balanced cut.

• Chain Maintenance:

  • Tension: Check the chain tension regularly. A properly tensioned chain should sag slightly on the underside of the bar.
  • Lubrication: Ensure the chain is properly lubricated. The automatic oiler should be dispensing oil continuously while the chainsaw is running.
  • Cleaning: Clean the chain and bar regularly to remove sawdust and debris.
  • Replacement: Replace the chain when it becomes excessively worn or damaged.

• Pole Saw Maintenance:

  • Cleaning: Clean the pole saw regularly to remove dirt and debris.
  • Lubrication: Lubricate the moving parts of the pole saw, such as the locking mechanism.
  • Inspection: Inspect the pole saw for any signs of damage, such as cracks or bends.
  • Storage: Store the pole saw in a dry place to prevent rust and corrosion.

Unique Insight: I’ve found that using a chain grinder for sharpening can significantly improve the speed and accuracy of the sharpening process. While it’s an investment, it can pay off in the long run, especially if you’re sharpening chains frequently.

Secret #4: Understanding Wood Species: The Arborist’s Advantage

Knowing the properties of different wood species can significantly improve your efficiency and safety when using a chainsaw on a pole saw.

• Hardwoods vs. Softwoods:

  • Hardwoods: Generally denser and more difficult to cut than softwoods. Examples include oak, maple, and hickory. They require a sharper chain and more power.
  • Softwoods: Generally less dense and easier to cut than hardwoods. Examples include pine, fir, and spruce. They are more prone to splintering and require careful cutting techniques.

• Moisture Content:

  • Green Wood: Wood that has recently been cut and contains a high amount of moisture. It is heavier and more difficult to cut than dry wood.
  • Dry Wood: Wood that has been seasoned and contains a low amount of moisture. It is lighter and easier to cut than green wood.

• Grain Direction:

  • With the Grain: Cutting with the grain is generally easier and produces a smoother cut.
  • Against the Grain: Cutting against the grain can be more difficult and produce a rougher cut.

• Specific Wood Species:

  • Oak: A strong, dense hardwood that is resistant to decay. It is often used for structural applications and firewood. Requires a sharp chain and careful cutting techniques.
  • Maple: A hard, dense hardwood that is known for its beautiful grain. It is often used for furniture and flooring. Can be prone to tear-out if not cut carefully.
  • Pine: A soft, lightweight softwood that is easy to work with. It is often used for construction and furniture. Prone to splintering.
  • Willow: A soft, weak hardwood that grows quickly. It is often used for erosion control and basketry. Easy to cut, but prone to bending and breaking.

Case Study: I once had a job removing a large oak branch that was overhanging a house. I knew that oak was a dense hardwood, so I made sure my chain was freshly sharpened and my chainsaw was running at full power. I used the three-cut method to prevent bark tearing and carefully controlled the direction of the falling branch. The job went smoothly, and the homeowner was very happy with the results.

Data Point: According to the USDA Forest Service, the density of wood can vary by as much as 50% between different species. This difference in density can significantly affect the cutting performance of a chainsaw.

Secret #5: Safety First: Avoiding the Common Arborist Injuries

Working with a chainsaw on a pole saw can be dangerous if you’re not careful. It’s crucial to prioritize safety and follow these guidelines:

• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE):

  • Eye Protection: Wear safety glasses or a face shield to protect your eyes from flying debris.
  • Hearing Protection: Wear earplugs or earmuffs to protect your hearing from the loud noise of the chainsaw.
  • Head Protection: Wear a hard hat to protect your head from falling branches.
  • Hand Protection: Wear gloves to protect your hands from cuts and abrasions.
  • Leg Protection: Wear chainsaw chaps or pants to protect your legs from chainsaw cuts.
  • Foot Protection: Wear sturdy boots with good ankle support.

• Safe Work Practices:

  • Clear the Area: Clear the area of people and obstacles before starting work.
  • Plan Your Cuts: Plan your cuts carefully and consider the direction of the falling branch.
  • Maintain a Stable Stance: Keep your feet firmly planted on the ground and maintain a stable stance.
  • Avoid Overreaching: Don’t overreach or extend yourself too far.
  • Be Aware of Kickback: Be aware of the risk of kickback, which can occur when the tip of the chainsaw bar comes into contact with a solid object.
  • Never Work Alone: Always work with a partner or let someone know where you’ll be working.
  • Take Breaks: Take frequent breaks to avoid fatigue.
  • Inspect Equipment: Inspect your equipment before each use to ensure it’s in good working condition.
  • Never Use in Wet Conditions: Avoid using a chainsaw on a pole saw in wet or icy conditions, as these conditions can increase the risk of slips and falls.
  • Power Lines: Be extremely cautious around power lines. Maintain a safe distance and never touch a power line with the pole saw. If you’re unsure about the proximity of power lines, contact your local utility company.

Idiom Alert: “Better safe than sorry” is a saying that definitely applies to working with chainsaws. Don’t take unnecessary risks.

Secret #6: Refining Your Arborist Technique: Balance and Control

Using a chainsaw on a pole saw requires a different set of skills than using a chainsaw on the ground. Balance and control are key to making accurate cuts and avoiding accidents.

• Grip: Use a firm, comfortable grip on the pole saw. Keep your hands spaced evenly apart to maintain balance.
• Stance: Maintain a stable stance with your feet shoulder-width apart. Keep your knees slightly bent to absorb shock.
• Movement: Use smooth, controlled movements when operating the pole saw. Avoid jerky or abrupt movements.
• Leverage: Use leverage to your advantage. Position yourself so that you can use your body weight to help guide the pole saw.
• Practice: Practice using the pole saw in a safe environment before tackling challenging jobs.

Personal Story: I remember one time when I was using a pole saw to trim a large branch overhanging a swimming pool. I was so focused on making the cut that I didn’t realize I was standing on a patch of loose gravel. As I made the cut, my feet slipped out from under me, and I nearly fell into the pool with the chainsaw. Luckily, I was able to regain my balance at the last second, but it was a close call. That experience taught me the importance of maintaining a stable stance and being aware of my surroundings.

Secret #7: Beyond the Cut: Disposal and Firewood Prep for the Arborist

Once you’ve made your cuts, you need to deal with the branches and wood. This involves disposal or, if you’re like me, transforming it into valuable firewood.

• Disposal:

  • Chipping: Chipping is a great way to dispose of branches and small trees. A chipper can quickly and efficiently turn wood into mulch, which can be used for landscaping or gardening.
  • Burning: Burning is another option for disposing of wood, but it’s important to check local regulations and obtain any necessary permits.
  • Landfill: In some cases, you may need to haul the wood to a landfill. This is the least environmentally friendly option.

• Firewood Preparation:

  • Splitting: Splitting wood is necessary to reduce its size and promote drying. A splitting maul or hydraulic splitter can be used for this purpose.
  • Stacking: Stack the wood in a dry, well-ventilated area to allow it to season. Seasoning typically takes 6-12 months, depending on the wood species and climate.
  • Covering: Cover the wood pile to protect it from rain and snow.
  • Wood Species for Firewood:
    • Oak: Excellent firewood, burns hot and long.
    • Maple: Good firewood, burns hot and clean.
    • Hickory: Excellent firewood, burns hot and long.
    • Ash: Good firewood, easy to split and burns well.
    • Pine: Okay firewood, burns quickly and produces a lot of smoke.
    • Willow: Poor firewood, burns quickly and produces little heat.

Actionable Takeaway: Consider investing in a moisture meter to check the moisture content of your firewood. Ideally, firewood should have a moisture content of 20% or less for optimal burning.

Conclusion: Elevating Your Arborist Skills with Small Chainsaws on Poles

Mastering the art of using small chainsaws on pole saws is a journey. It requires practice, patience, and a commitment to safety. But the rewards are well worth the effort. By following these secrets, you can enhance your reach, improve your precision, and reduce your risk of injury. You can transform unruly trees into works of art, and turn waste wood into valuable firewood.

So, grab your pole saw, sharpen your chain, and get ready to elevate your arborist skills to new heights. And remember, always put safety first. Happy cutting!

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