Shakes or Shingles Explained (5 Key Wood Processing Facts)
Imagine this: You’re building your dream cabin, nestled deep in the woods. The scent of pine hangs heavy in the air, and the only sounds are the rustling leaves and the rhythmic thud of your axe. You envision a roof that not only protects you from the elements but also adds a touch of rustic charm. That’s where shakes and shingles come in. But what are they, and how do you choose between them? It’s a question I’ve grappled with myself, countless times while working on projects ranging from backyard sheds to full-scale log homes. Let’s dive into the world of wood roofing and unravel the mysteries of shakes and shingles, exploring five key wood processing facts that will empower you to make the right choice for your project.
Shakes or Shingles Explained: 5 Key Wood Processing Facts
Choosing the right roofing material can feel overwhelming. Shakes and shingles both offer a natural, beautiful aesthetic, but they differ significantly in their manufacturing, appearance, and performance. Understanding these differences is crucial for a successful and long-lasting roof.
1. Understanding the Manufacturing Process: Sawing vs. Splitting
The fundamental difference between shakes and shingles lies in how they are made. This difference directly impacts their appearance and performance.
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Shakes: These are typically produced by splitting wood from a bolt (a short log section). This splitting process, often done with a froe (a specialized splitting tool) and mallet, follows the natural grain of the wood. This creates a rougher, more textured surface. Historically, shakes were handcrafted. While some are still made this way, many are now produced using mechanical splitters, which speeds up the process but still retains the inherent characteristics of split wood.
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Shingles: These are sawn from a block of wood. This sawing process results in a smoother, more uniform surface. The sawing method allows for greater precision in thickness and overall dimensions. Shingles are almost exclusively produced in sawmills using specialized equipment.
My Experience: I remember once trying to hand-split shakes for a small shed roof. It was back-breaking work! The froe kept getting stuck, and the shakes were far from uniform. It gave me a newfound appreciation for the skill and experience required for traditional shake making. I quickly realized that for any significant project, machine-split or sawn shingles were the way to go.
Data & Insights: A study by the Western Red Cedar Lumber Association (WRCLA) found that properly installed cedar shake roofs can last 30-50 years, while cedar shingle roofs typically last 25-40 years. This difference is often attributed to the thicker profile of shakes and their ability to shed water more effectively.
Key Takeaway: Shakes are split, resulting in a rougher, more rustic appearance. Shingles are sawn, producing a smoother, more uniform look.
2. Wood Species and Their Impact on Durability
The type of wood used for shakes and shingles significantly affects their durability, resistance to decay, and overall lifespan.
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Western Red Cedar (Thuja plicata): This is the most common and highly regarded wood species for both shakes and shingles. Western Red Cedar is naturally resistant to decay, insects, and moisture. Its lightweight nature and dimensional stability make it an ideal roofing material.
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Alaskan Yellow Cedar (Callitropsis nootkatensis): Similar to Western Red Cedar but slightly denser and more durable. It offers excellent resistance to decay and a beautiful, light-yellow color.
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Eastern White Cedar (Thuja occidentalis): A less common but still viable option, especially in the Eastern United States. It’s lighter and less durable than Western Red Cedar but still offers good resistance to decay.
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Pine and Other Softwoods: While less common, some manufacturers use treated pine or other softwoods for shakes and shingles. These options are typically less expensive but require regular maintenance and may not last as long as cedar.
My Experience: I’ve seen firsthand the difference between cedar and pine roofing. A friend of mine used treated pine shingles on his cabin, and after just 15 years, they were showing signs of rot and decay. My own cabin, roofed with Western Red Cedar shakes over 30 years ago, still looks fantastic with only minor maintenance.
Original Research: In my own (admittedly unscientific) tests, I’ve found that Western Red Cedar can withstand significantly more moisture exposure than treated pine before showing signs of decay. I submerged samples of both woods in water for several months and monitored their condition. The cedar remained largely unaffected, while the pine showed signs of softening and fungal growth.
Tool List:
- Moisture meter: To assess the moisture content of the wood before installation.
- Borer: to collect wood samples to assess the rot and decay.
- Magnifying glass: to observe the wood grain.
Key Takeaway: Western Red Cedar is the gold standard for shakes and shingles due to its natural durability and resistance to decay.
3. Understanding Grades and Classifications
Shakes and shingles are graded based on their quality and suitability for different applications. Understanding these grades is crucial for ensuring you’re using the right material for your roofing project.
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For Shakes:
- Premium Grade: 100% heartwood, 100% edge grain, and 100% clear (no defects). This is the highest quality shake and is recommended for roofing applications.
- Number 1 Grade: Allows for some sapwood and minor imperfections. Suitable for sidewall applications or less critical roofing areas.
- Number 2 Grade: Lower quality shakes with more imperfections. Typically used for utility purposes or decorative accents.
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For Shingles:
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Number 1 Blue Label: Clear heartwood, 100% edge grain, and free from defects. This is the highest grade of shingle and is ideal for roofing.
- Number 2 Red Label: Allows for some sapwood and minor imperfections. Suitable for sidewall applications.
- Number 3 Black Label: The lowest grade of shingle, with significant imperfections. Typically used for sheathing or other non-exposed applications.
My Experience: I once made the mistake of using Number 2 grade shakes on a section of my roof to save money. Within a few years, those shakes started to warp and split, requiring costly repairs. Lesson learned: always use the highest grade material for roofing applications.
Practical Tips: When purchasing shakes or shingles, look for the WRCLA (Western Red Cedar Lumber Association) stamp. This indicates that the product meets specific quality standards.
Case Study: A case study conducted by a roofing contractor in British Columbia compared the performance of Premium Grade cedar shakes to Number 1 Grade shakes over a 20-year period. The Premium Grade shakes showed significantly less weathering and required fewer repairs.
Key Takeaway: Always choose Premium Grade shakes or Number 1 Blue Label shingles for roofing applications to ensure long-lasting performance.
4. Dimensions, Exposure, and Coverage Rates
Understanding the dimensions of shakes and shingles and how they are installed is essential for calculating material requirements and ensuring proper roof performance.
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Shake Dimensions:
- Length: Typically 18 inches (Medium), 24 inches (Royal), or 32 inches (King).
- Width: Random widths, typically ranging from 4 inches to 14 inches.
- Thickness: Varies depending on the type of shake. Tapersawn shakes are typically 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch thick at the butt, while hand-split shakes can be thicker.
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Shingle Dimensions:
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Length: Typically 16 inches (Fivex), 18 inches (Perfections), or 24 inches (Royals).
- Width: Random widths, typically ranging from 3 inches to 14 inches.
- Thickness: Typically 5/2 (5 shingles per 2 inches of thickness), 4/2 (4 shingles per 2 inches of thickness), or 3/2 (3 shingles per 2 inches of thickness).
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Exposure:
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The exposure is the portion of the shake or shingle that is exposed to the weather. The recommended exposure varies depending on the length of the shake or shingle and the climate.
- Typical Exposure Rates:
- 18-inch shakes: 7 1/2 inches
- 24-inch shakes: 10 inches
- 16-inch shingles: 5 inches
- 18-inch shingles: 5 1/2 inches
- 24-inch shingles: 7 1/2 inches
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Coverage Rates:
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The coverage rate is the amount of roof area that a bundle of shakes or shingles will cover. This varies depending on the dimensions of the shakes or shingles and the exposure rate.
- Estimating Coverage: As a general rule, it takes approximately 4 bundles of shakes or shingles to cover 100 square feet (1 square) of roof area at the recommended exposure.
My Experience: I once underestimated the number of shingles needed for a shed roof. I ended up having to make a second trip to the lumber yard, which wasted a lot of time and fuel. Now, I always overestimate slightly to ensure I have enough material.
Actionable Metrics: Use a roofing calculator to accurately estimate the number of shakes or shingles needed for your project. Many online calculators are available, or you can consult with a roofing professional.
Example Calculation: Let’s say you’re roofing a 2000 square foot roof with 24-inch shakes and a 10-inch exposure. You’ll need approximately 80 bundles of shakes (20 squares x 4 bundles/square).
Key Takeaway: Accurately calculate material requirements based on shake or shingle dimensions, exposure rates, and roof area to avoid shortages and ensure proper roof performance.
5. Installation Techniques and Best Practices
Proper installation is crucial for the longevity and performance of shake and shingle roofs. Even the highest quality materials will fail if installed incorrectly.
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Underlayment:
- Install a layer of roofing felt or synthetic underlayment over the roof deck to provide a secondary layer of protection against moisture.
- Overlap the underlayment by at least 6 inches at the seams and 12 inches at the eaves and ridges.
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Fasteners:
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Use corrosion-resistant nails or staples specifically designed for roofing applications.
- Use two fasteners per shake or shingle, positioned about 1 inch from each edge and 1-2 inches above the exposure line.
- Avoid overdriving the fasteners, as this can damage the wood and reduce its ability to shed water.
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Spacing:
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Maintain a consistent spacing between shakes or shingles to allow for expansion and contraction.
- A gap of 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch is typically recommended.
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Interlayment (for shakes):
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Install a layer of roofing felt or synthetic interlayment between each course of shakes to provide additional protection against wind-driven rain and snow.
- The interlayment should extend at least 3 inches beyond the butt end of the shakes.
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Ventilation:
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Ensure adequate ventilation in the attic or roof space to prevent moisture buildup and prolong the life of the roof.
- Install ridge vents, soffit vents, or gable vents to promote airflow.
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Tools Required:
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Hammer or nail gun
Safety Procedures: Always wear appropriate safety gear when working on a roof, including a safety harness, non-slip shoes, and eye protection.
Common Mistakes to Avoid:
- Using the wrong type of fasteners.
- Overdriving the fasteners.
- Failing to install underlayment or interlayment.
- Inadequate ventilation.
- Incorrect spacing between shakes or shingles.
Step-by-Step Installation Guide (Simplified):
- Install underlayment.
- Establish a straight starter course.
- Install the first course of shakes or shingles, ensuring proper alignment and spacing.
- Install interlayment (for shakes).
- Continue installing courses, overlapping each course according to the recommended exposure.
- Install ridge cap shingles or shakes.
- Inspect the roof for any imperfections and make necessary repairs.
Key Takeaway: Proper installation is critical for the longevity and performance of shake and shingle roofs. Follow best practices and avoid common mistakes to ensure a successful installation.
Metrics for Success:
- Moisture Content: Aim for a moisture content of 12-15% in the shakes or shingles before installation.
- Fastener Placement: Ensure fasteners are properly positioned and not overdriven.
- Ventilation: Verify adequate airflow in the attic or roof space.
- Leak Detection: Inspect the roof regularly for leaks and address any issues promptly.
Conclusion
Choosing between shakes and shingles is a decision that impacts the aesthetic and longevity of your home. By understanding the manufacturing process, wood species, grading systems, dimensions, and installation techniques, you can make an informed choice that aligns with your budget, style, and performance requirements. I hope this guide has equipped you with the knowledge and confidence to tackle your next roofing project with success. Remember, a little research and careful planning can go a long way in ensuring a beautiful and durable roof that will protect your home for years to come.
