Sawmill Reviews: Norwood Kit Troubles (5 Logging Hacks)

The crisp morning air bit at my cheeks as I surveyed the stack of freshly felled pine logs. The scent of resin hung heavy, a promise of the projects to come. Today was sawmill day. I’d been dreaming of this for months, ever since I pulled the trigger on a Norwood portable sawmill kit. The promise of turning rough logs into beautiful lumber, all on my own property, was intoxicating. But as any seasoned woodworker or small-scale logger will tell you, the path to perfectly milled boards isn’t always smooth. This isn’t just a review; it’s a chronicle of my journey, the trials, the tribulations, and the triumphs of tackling a Norwood sawmill kit, seasoned with a few hard-won logging hacks to make the process a little less…arduous. I’m going to share the nitty-gritty details, the kind of stuff you won’t find in the brochure, the kind that comes from sweat, sawdust, and the occasional head-scratching moment.

Norwood Sawmill Kit: My Deep Dive and Hard-Won Hacks

I chose the Norwood because it seemed like a solid balance of affordability and capability for a small operation like mine. I’m not running a commercial mill, but I needed something robust enough to handle the occasional batch of lumber for projects around the homestead. I’ll be focusing on the LM29 model, as that’s what I have experience with, but many of the principles and challenges apply to other Norwood models as well.

The Allure of Portable Sawmills

Before diving into the specifics, let’s address why portable sawmills are so appealing. For me, it was about control and cost savings. Hauling logs to a mill can be expensive, and you’re often at the mercy of their schedule and pricing. With a portable mill, I could process logs on-site, reducing transportation costs and allowing me to mill lumber exactly when I needed it. Plus, there’s a certain satisfaction in knowing you’re turning a raw resource into something useful with your own hands.

Unboxing and Assembly: The First Hurdle

The kit arrived in a series of well-packed boxes. The sheer volume of parts was a little daunting, but the included instructions were generally clear. However, “generally” is the key word here.

• The Good: The frame components were heavy-duty and well-coated. The welding looked solid, and the overall build quality seemed promising.
• The Not-So-Good: Some of the smaller hardware was of questionable quality. I recommend having a stash of your own bolts and washers on hand, just in case. Also, the instruction manual could have been more detailed in certain areas, particularly regarding the alignment of the saw head.
• My Hack #1: The Laser Level Savior: Instead of relying solely on the manual’s alignment instructions, I used a laser level to ensure the saw head was perfectly parallel to the bed. This made a HUGE difference in the accuracy of my cuts and prevented a lot of frustration down the line. I got a cheap laser level for about $30, and it was the best investment I made during the assembly process.

Technical Specification: Frame and Track Dimensions (LM29)

• Bed Length: 16 ft 3 in (4.95 m) – This can be extended with optional bed extensions.
• Maximum Log Diameter: 29 in (73.7 cm) – This is a theoretical maximum; realistically, logs closer to 24-26 inches are easier to handle.
• Track Material: Heavy-duty steel – Gauge and specific alloy not explicitly stated in the manual, but visually appears to be 11-14 gauge steel.
• Frame Construction: Welded steel – Weld quality appeared consistent upon visual inspection.

Powering Up: Engine Considerations

The Norwood LM29 typically comes with a gasoline engine, usually around 13-14 horsepower. This is sufficient for most softwood milling, but if you plan on tackling hardwoods regularly, you might consider upgrading. I stuck with the stock engine for now, but I’m already contemplating an electric conversion in the future.

• The Good: The gasoline engine is reliable and easy to start. Fuel consumption is reasonable, especially when milling smaller logs.
• The Not-So-Good: Gasoline engines are noisy and require regular maintenance. The vibration can also be a bit tiring after a long day of milling.
• My Hack #2: Vibration Dampening: I added rubber pads between the engine mount and the sawmill frame. This significantly reduced vibration and made the whole operation much smoother. I used vibration dampening pads rated for at least 100 lbs (45 kg) each. This isn’t an official Norwood modification, so proceed with caution and ensure the engine remains securely mounted.

Technical Specification: Engine Performance and Fuel Consumption (Stock Engine)

• Engine Type: Single-cylinder, air-cooled gasoline engine (Typically Kohler or Briggs & Stratton)
• Horsepower: 13-14 HP (9.7-10.4 kW)
• Fuel Consumption: Approximately 0.7-1.0 gallons per hour (2.6-3.8 liters per hour) – Varies depending on load and milling conditions.
• Fuel Tank Capacity: Approximately 1.2 gallons (4.5 liters)

Blade Tension and Alignment: The Key to Accurate Cuts

This is where things get tricky. Proper blade tension and alignment are absolutely crucial for achieving straight, consistent cuts. The Norwood kit comes with a blade tensioning system, but it takes some practice to get it dialed in correctly.

• The Good: The blade guides are adjustable and allow you to fine-tune the blade’s position.
• The Not-So-Good: The manual’s instructions on blade tensioning are vague. It’s more of an art than a science, and it takes time to develop a feel for it.
• My Hack #3: The Digital Tension Gauge: I invested in a digital blade tension gauge. This allowed me to accurately measure the blade tension and consistently achieve the recommended tension for different blade types and wood species. This was a game-changer! I aimed for a blade tension of 12,000-14,000 PSI (83-97 MPa) for most softwood milling, adjusting slightly based on the specific blade manufacturer’s recommendations.

Technical Specification: Blade Tension and Alignment

• Recommended Blade Tension: Varies depending on blade type and wood species. Consult blade manufacturer’s recommendations. General range: 12,000-15,000 PSI (83-103 MPa) for softwood; 15,000-18,000 PSI (103-124 MPa) for hardwood.
• Blade Alignment: Blade guides should be adjusted so that the blade runs true and does not wander.
• Blade Material: Typically high-carbon steel or bi-metal.
• Blade Dimensions (Typical): 1.25 inches wide, 0.042 inches thick. Length varies depending on the sawmill model.

Log Handling: The Back-Breaking Reality

Let’s be honest, even with a portable sawmill, log handling is hard work. Getting the logs onto the bed, turning them, and securing them can be a real challenge, especially with larger logs.

• The Good: The Norwood sawmill bed is relatively low to the ground, which makes loading logs easier than some other models.
• The Not-So-Good: The log clamps are adequate, but they could be more robust, especially for larger, irregular logs.
• My Hack #4: The Cant Hook and Log Lifter Combo: A good cant hook is essential for turning logs. But for lifting heavier logs, I used a log lifter attached to a small tractor. This saved my back and significantly increased my productivity. A log lifter with a lifting capacity of at least 1,000 lbs (454 kg) is recommended. If you don’t have access to a tractor, consider using a heavy-duty come-along winch with a similar capacity.

Technical Specification: Log Handling Equipment

• Cant Hook: Choose a cant hook with a sturdy handle and a sharp, hardened steel hook. Handle length should be appropriate for the size of logs you’re handling (e.g., 48-inch handle for logs up to 20 inches in diameter).
• Log Lifter: Ensure the log lifter has a sufficient lifting capacity for the size and weight of logs you’re handling. A lifting capacity of at least 1,000 lbs (454 kg) is recommended.
• Log Clamps: The Norwood log clamps should be properly adjusted and tightened to securely hold the log in place. Regularly inspect the clamps for wear and tear.

The Milling Process: From Round Log to Square Board

Finally, the moment of truth! With the logs loaded, the blade tensioned, and the engine running, it’s time to start milling.

• The Good: The Norwood sawmill cuts relatively smoothly, especially with a sharp blade and proper tension. The adjustable height settings allow you to mill boards of various thicknesses.
• The Not-So-Good: The sawdust collection system is rudimentary at best. Expect to be covered in sawdust by the end of the day. Also, the feed rate can be a bit inconsistent, especially when milling harder woods.
• My Hack #5: The Sawdust Management System (DIY): I built a simple sawdust collection system using a shop vacuum and some flexible ductwork. It wasn’t perfect, but it significantly reduced the amount of sawdust flying around. I also added a small water drip system to the blade. This helps to keep the blade cool and lubricated, which improves cutting performance and extends blade life.

Technical Specification: Milling Parameters

• Feed Rate: Varies depending on wood species, blade sharpness, and engine speed. Experiment to find the optimal feed rate for each log.
• Cutting Thickness: Adjustable in increments of 1/4 inch (6.35 mm).
• Kerf Width: Approximately 0.090 inches (2.3 mm). This is the amount of wood that is removed by the blade during each pass.
• Sawdust Production: Significant. Proper sawdust management is essential for safety and efficiency.

Wood Selection Criteria: Knowing Your Lumber

Before you start milling, it’s crucial to understand the characteristics of the wood you’re working with. Different species have different properties, and these properties will affect how the wood mills, dries, and performs in its final application.

• Hardwoods vs. Softwoods: Hardwoods (e.g., oak, maple, cherry) are generally denser and more durable than softwoods (e.g., pine, fir, cedar). Hardwoods are typically used for furniture, flooring, and other high-wear applications. Softwoods are often used for framing, siding, and trim.
• Moisture Content: The moisture content of the wood will affect its stability and workability. Freshly cut wood (green wood) has a high moisture content (often above 30%). Wood needs to be dried to a moisture content of around 6-12% for most indoor applications.
• Grain Pattern: The grain pattern of the wood affects its appearance and strength. Straight-grained wood is generally easier to work with than wood with knots or irregular grain.
• Defects: Knots, cracks, and other defects can weaken the wood and affect its appearance.

Technical Specification: Wood Properties

Note: These values are approximate and can vary depending on growing conditions and other factors.

Tool Calibration Standards: Precision is Key

Maintaining proper tool calibration is essential for producing accurate and consistent lumber. This includes calibrating the blade tension gauge, the height adjustment mechanism on the sawmill, and any other measuring tools you’re using.

• Blade Tension Gauge Calibration: Periodically check the accuracy of your blade tension gauge using a known weight or a calibrated pressure source.
• Height Adjustment Calibration: Use a precision ruler or caliper to verify the accuracy of the height adjustment mechanism on the sawmill.
• Measuring Tool Calibration: Ensure that your rulers, tape measures, and other measuring tools are accurate and in good condition.

Technical Specification: Calibration Procedures

• Blade Tension Gauge Calibration: Consult the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific gauge. Typically involves comparing the gauge reading to a known pressure or weight.
• Height Adjustment Calibration: Measure the distance between the saw blade and the sawmill bed at various height settings. Compare these measurements to the indicated height settings on the sawmill. Adjust as needed.
• Measuring Tool Calibration: Compare your measuring tools to a known standard (e.g., a calibrated ruler). Replace or recalibrate any tools that are inaccurate.

Safety Equipment Requirements: Protecting Yourself

Safety should always be your top priority when operating a sawmill. Wear appropriate safety equipment at all times, and follow all safety guidelines provided by the manufacturer.

• Eye Protection: Wear safety glasses or a face shield to protect your eyes from flying debris.
• Hearing Protection: Wear earplugs or earmuffs to protect your hearing from the noise of the sawmill.
• Respiratory Protection: Wear a dust mask or respirator to protect your lungs from sawdust.
• Gloves: Wear gloves to protect your hands from cuts and splinters.
• Steel-Toed Boots: Wear steel-toed boots to protect your feet from falling logs and other hazards.

Technical Specification: Safety Standards

• Eye Protection: Safety glasses should meet ANSI Z87.1 standards. Face shields should provide adequate coverage and impact resistance.
• Hearing Protection: Earplugs or earmuffs should provide a noise reduction rating (NRR) of at least 25 decibels.
• Respiratory Protection: Dust masks should be NIOSH-approved and rated for protection against particulate matter. Respirators should be used when working with hardwoods or when exposed to high levels of sawdust.
• Gloves: Choose gloves that provide adequate protection against cuts, splinters, and abrasion. Leather or synthetic gloves are generally recommended.
• Steel-Toed Boots: Steel-toed boots should meet ANSI Z41 standards and provide adequate protection against impact and compression.

Firewood Preparation: From Log to Hearth

While my primary focus was lumber, I also used the sawmill to prepare firewood. Sawing logs into smaller pieces makes them easier to split and season.

• Log Length: Cut logs into lengths that are appropriate for your fireplace or wood stove. A common length is 16 inches (40.6 cm).
• Splitting: Split the logs into smaller pieces to speed up the drying process. A good maul or splitting axe is essential for this task.
• Seasoning: Stack the firewood in a well-ventilated area and allow it to dry for at least six months, preferably longer. The ideal moisture content for firewood is below 20%.

Technical Specification: Firewood Properties

• Moisture Content: Firewood should have a moisture content below 20% for efficient burning.
• Log Length: Cut logs to a length that is appropriate for your fireplace or wood stove.
• Wood Species: Hardwoods generally burn longer and hotter than softwoods.

Original Research and Case Studies: My Projects

I’ve used my Norwood sawmill for a variety of projects, including building a small cabin, constructing a garden shed, and milling lumber for furniture. Here are a few examples:

• Cabin Project: I used the sawmill to mill lumber for the framing, siding, and flooring of a small cabin. The project required approximately 5,000 board feet of lumber. I milled primarily pine and fir, which I sourced from my own property. The biggest challenge was handling the larger logs, which required the use of a tractor and log lifter.
• Garden Shed Project: I used the sawmill to mill lumber for the framing and siding of a garden shed. The project required approximately 1,000 board feet of lumber. I milled primarily cedar, which I purchased from a local lumberyard. The biggest challenge was milling the cedar to the correct thickness for the siding.
• Furniture Project: I used the sawmill to mill lumber for a dining table and chairs. The project required approximately 200 board feet of lumber. I milled primarily maple, which I purchased from a local lumberyard. The biggest challenge was milling the maple to the correct dimensions for the table and chairs.

Technical Details: Cabin Project

• Lumber Species: Pine and Fir
• Total Lumber Volume: 5,000 board feet
• Framing Dimensions: 2×4, 2×6
• Siding Dimensions: 1×6
• Flooring Dimensions: 1×8

Data Points and Statistics: The Numbers Game

Here are some data points and statistics that I’ve gathered from my experience with the Norwood sawmill:

• Average Milling Time: It takes me approximately 1 hour to mill 100 board feet of lumber. This varies depending on the size and species of the logs.
• Blade Life: A good quality sawmill blade will typically last for 10-20 hours of milling time. This varies depending on the wood species and the sharpness of the blade.
• Fuel Consumption: The sawmill engine typically consumes 0.7-1.0 gallons of gasoline per hour.
• Sawdust Production: The sawmill produces a significant amount of sawdust. I estimate that I generate approximately 1 cubic yard of sawdust for every 1,000 board feet of lumber milled.

Technical Specification: Performance Metrics

Industry Standards and Forestry Regulations: Staying Compliant

It’s important to be aware of any industry standards and forestry regulations that may apply to your sawmill operation. These regulations may cover topics such as timber harvesting, sawmill safety, and waste disposal.

• Timber Harvesting Regulations: Check with your local forestry agency to determine if there are any regulations regarding timber harvesting on your property.
• Sawmill Safety Regulations: OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Administration) has regulations regarding sawmill safety. Make sure you are familiar with these regulations and that you are operating your sawmill in a safe manner.
• Waste Disposal Regulations: Check with your local environmental agency to determine if there are any regulations regarding the disposal of sawdust and other sawmill waste.

Technical Specification: Regulatory Compliance

• OSHA Regulations: Consult OSHA regulations for specific requirements regarding sawmill safety.
• Local Forestry Regulations: Contact your local forestry agency for information on timber harvesting regulations.
• Environmental Regulations: Contact your local environmental agency for information on waste disposal regulations.

Conclusion: My Norwood Experience

The Norwood sawmill kit is a capable and affordable option for small-scale logging and lumber production. It’s not without its challenges, but with a little patience, ingenuity, and a few well-chosen hacks, you can turn rough logs into beautiful lumber. I’ve learned a lot along the way, and I’m still learning. The journey has been rewarding, and I’m excited to continue milling lumber for my projects for years to come. Remember to prioritize safety, maintain your equipment, and always be willing to experiment and learn. Happy milling!

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