Remove Shrubs Near Foundation (3 Pro Tips for Lasting Wood Care)

Remove Shrubs Near Foundation (3 Pro Tips for Lasting Wood Care)

Let’s face it: nobody wants shrubs growing right up against their foundation. They’re unsightly, can cause structural damage, and, from a wood processing perspective, they can create a haven for moisture that wreaks havoc on your firewood storage and even the wooden components of your home. In this guide, I’ll walk you through the process of removing those unwanted shrubs and, more importantly, share three professional tips for ensuring the wood around your property – from your firewood pile to your home’s siding – stays healthy and protected. I’ve learned a thing or two over the years dealing with everything from massive logging operations to simply prepping firewood for the winter, and I’m excited to share that knowledge with you.

The Urgency of Shrub Removal: A Personal Anecdote

I remember one particularly wet year in the Pacific Northwest. I was helping a friend prepare his property for winter, and we discovered a massive shrub, almost a small tree, nestled right against his foundation. It looked innocent enough, but when we started pulling it away, we found the soil underneath was perpetually damp, and the wooden siding was starting to rot. It was a costly repair waiting to happen. That experience hammered home the importance of proactive shrub removal and proper wood care.

Understanding the Threat: Shrubs and Wood Damage

Before diving into the “how-to,” let’s understand why shrubs are a problem.

• Moisture Retention: Shrubs trap moisture against your foundation, preventing the wood from drying properly. This creates an ideal environment for fungal growth and rot. Think of it like this: green wood, which is freshly cut and full of moisture, is much more susceptible to decay than seasoned wood, which has been properly dried. Shrubs essentially keep the wood perpetually “green” in a localized area.
• Pest Harborage: Shrubs provide shelter for insects like termites, carpenter ants, and rodents. These pests can then easily access and damage the wooden structure of your home.
• Root Damage: While less common, aggressive shrub roots can sometimes penetrate foundations, causing cracks and other structural problems.
• Hidden Damage: Shrubs obscure the foundation, making it difficult to detect early signs of damage like cracks, rot, or pest infestations.

Key Terms: A Quick Glossary

• Green Wood: Freshly cut wood with high moisture content. It’s heavier, harder to split, and prone to decay.
• Seasoned Wood: Wood that has been properly dried to reduce moisture content. It’s lighter, easier to split, and more resistant to decay. The target moisture content for firewood is typically below 20%.
• Heartwood: The central, older wood of a tree, generally darker and more resistant to decay.
• Sapwood: The outer, younger wood of a tree, lighter in color and more susceptible to decay.
• Wood Rot: The decomposition of wood caused by fungi.

Step-by-Step Shrub Removal: A Practical Guide

This section will guide you through the process of removing shrubs safely and effectively.

Step 1: Assessment and Planning

• Identify the Shrubs: Determine the type of shrubs you’re dealing with. This will help you understand their root system and potential challenges. Some shrubs have shallow, spreading roots, while others have deep taproots.
• Inspect the Foundation: Carefully examine the foundation for any existing damage, such as cracks, rot, or pest infestations. Document your findings with photos.
• Gather Your Tools: You’ll need the following:
  • Gloves: Protect your hands.
  • Shovel: For digging around the roots.
  • Pruning Shears or Loppers: For cutting branches and smaller roots.
  • Root Saw or Reciprocating Saw: For cutting larger roots.
  • Pickaxe (Optional): For breaking up hard soil.
  • Wheelbarrow: For hauling away debris.
  • Safety Glasses: Protect your eyes from flying debris.
• Plan Your Approach: Decide how you’ll remove the shrubs. For small shrubs, you might be able to simply pull them out. For larger shrubs, you’ll need to dig around the roots and cut them.

Step 2: Preparing the Area

• Clear the Area: Remove any obstacles around the shrubs, such as rocks, mulch, or garden ornaments.
• Prune the Branches: Use pruning shears or loppers to cut back the branches of the shrubs. This will make it easier to access the roots. Cut the branches into manageable pieces for disposal.

Step 3: Removing the Shrub

• Dig Around the Roots: Use a shovel to dig a circle around the base of the shrub, exposing the roots. The size of the circle will depend on the size of the shrub.
• Cut the Roots: Use a root saw or reciprocating saw to cut the larger roots. Be careful not to damage any underground utilities.
• Pull Out the Shrub: Once you’ve cut most of the roots, try to pull the shrub out of the ground. You may need to use a shovel or pickaxe to loosen the soil around the remaining roots.
• Remove the Root Ball: Once the shrub is removed, remove the root ball from the hole. This will prevent the shrub from growing back.

Step 4: Cleanup and Disposal

• Fill the Hole: Fill the hole with topsoil and compact it.
• Dispose of the Debris: Dispose of the shrub branches, roots, and root ball properly. You can compost them, burn them (if allowed in your area), or take them to a landfill.
• Clean the Area: Clean up any debris around the area.

3 Pro Tips for Lasting Wood Care

Now that you’ve removed the shrubs, let’s focus on protecting the wood around your property. These tips are based on years of experience in logging, firewood preparation, and general wood management.

Pro Tip #1: Create a Moisture Barrier

Moisture is the enemy of wood. To prevent moisture from damaging your foundation and firewood, create a physical barrier between the soil and the wood.

• Gravel Bed: Install a gravel bed around the foundation. Gravel allows water to drain away from the foundation, preventing moisture from accumulating. A 4-6 inch layer of gravel is ideal. I’ve found that using crushed stone, about 3/4 inch in size, provides excellent drainage.
• Plastic Sheeting: Line the gravel bed with plastic sheeting to further prevent moisture from wicking up from the soil. Make sure the sheeting extends up the foundation wall a few inches.
• Proper Grading: Ensure that the ground slopes away from the foundation. This will help water drain away from the house. The generally accepted slope is 6 inches over the first 10 feet away from the foundation.
• Firewood Storage: Don’t store firewood directly on the ground. Use pallets or a raised platform to keep the wood off the ground and allow for air circulation. I prefer using old shipping pallets; they’re readily available and provide excellent support.

Case Study: The Pallet Firewood Stack

I once helped a friend build a firewood storage area using recycled pallets. We laid down a layer of gravel, covered it with plastic sheeting, and then stacked the pallets on top. This created a raised platform that kept the firewood dry and allowed for excellent air circulation. The firewood seasoned much faster, and we had virtually no rot.

Pro Tip #2: Promote Air Circulation

Air circulation is crucial for drying wood and preventing rot. Stagnant air traps moisture and creates an ideal environment for fungal growth.

• Trim Overhanging Branches: Trim any overhanging branches that block sunlight and prevent air from circulating around the foundation.
• Space Firewood Stacks: When stacking firewood, leave space between the stacks to allow for air circulation. I recommend leaving at least 2-3 inches between stacks.
• Cross-Stacking: Cross-stack the firewood to create air channels within the stack. This will help the wood dry more evenly. Every few layers, alternate the direction of the wood to create a checkerboard pattern.
• Proper Ventilation: Ensure that your foundation vents are clear and unobstructed. These vents allow air to circulate under the house, preventing moisture buildup.

Strategic Advantage: By promoting air circulation, you not only prevent rot but also accelerate the seasoning process for your firewood. This means you’ll have dry, ready-to-burn firewood sooner.

Pro Tip #3: Wood Preservatives and Treatments

Consider using wood preservatives or treatments to protect the wood around your property from rot and pests.

• Borate Treatments: Borate treatments are effective against wood-boring insects and fungi. They are relatively non-toxic and can be applied to both green and seasoned wood. I’ve used borate treatments on fence posts and wooden decks with excellent results.
• Copper Naphthenate: Copper naphthenate is a more traditional wood preservative that is effective against a wide range of fungi and insects. It’s more toxic than borate treatments, so use it with caution.
• Creosote: Creosote is a very effective wood preservative, but it’s also highly toxic. It’s typically used for railroad ties and other industrial applications. I generally don’t recommend using creosote for residential applications.
• Sealants: Apply a sealant to exposed wood surfaces to prevent moisture from penetrating the wood. Choose a sealant that is specifically designed for exterior use.
• Regular Inspections: Regularly inspect the wood around your property for signs of damage. Early detection is key to preventing costly repairs.

Important Note: Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when using wood preservatives or treatments. Wear appropriate safety gear, such as gloves, eye protection, and a respirator.

Tools of the Trade: Chainsaws, Axes, and Log Splitters

No discussion of wood care is complete without mentioning the tools of the trade. Here’s a brief overview of some essential tools:

• Chainsaws: Essential for felling trees, bucking logs, and cutting firewood.
  • Gas-Powered: More powerful and portable, ideal for larger jobs. I prefer Stihl or Husqvarna chainsaws. For general use, a 16-18 inch bar is sufficient.
  • Electric: Quieter and easier to maintain, suitable for smaller jobs.
• Axes: Used for splitting firewood and felling small trees.
  • Splitting Axe: Designed for splitting wood along the grain. A good splitting axe will have a heavy head and a wide blade.
  • Felling Axe: Designed for cutting down trees. A good felling axe will have a sharp blade and a comfortable handle.
• Log Splitters: Used for splitting firewood quickly and easily.
  • Hydraulic Log Splitters: More powerful and efficient than manual log splitters. They can split even the toughest wood with ease. I use a 25-ton hydraulic splitter for my firewood operation.
  • Manual Log Splitters: Less expensive and more portable than hydraulic log splitters. They require more physical effort but are suitable for smaller jobs.

Tool Specifications:

• Chainsaw Bar Length: 16-18 inches for general use, 20+ inches for larger trees.
• Axe Weight: 6-8 pounds for splitting axes, 4-6 pounds for felling axes.
• Log Splitter Tonnage: 20-30 tons for most firewood applications.

Safety Considerations:

• Always wear appropriate safety gear when using chainsaws, axes, or log splitters. This includes safety glasses, gloves, hearing protection, and sturdy boots.
• Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for operating and maintaining your tools.
• Never use dull or damaged tools.
• Be aware of your surroundings and keep bystanders at a safe distance.

Wood Type Selection: A Quick Guide

The type of wood you use for firewood or construction can significantly impact its durability and resistance to decay.

• Hardwoods: Generally denser and more resistant to decay than softwoods. Examples include oak, maple, birch, and ash. These are excellent choices for firewood, as they burn longer and produce more heat.
• Softwoods: Less dense and more susceptible to decay than hardwoods. Examples include pine, fir, spruce, and cedar. Cedar is an exception, as it contains natural oils that make it relatively resistant to decay.
• Rot-Resistant Woods: Some woods are naturally resistant to decay due to their high oil content or other properties. Examples include cedar, redwood, and black locust. These are excellent choices for outdoor applications.

Example: If you’re building a fence, cedar or redwood posts will last much longer than pine posts.

Drying Methods: Achieving Optimal Moisture Content

Proper drying is essential for preventing rot and maximizing the efficiency of your firewood.

• Air Drying: The most common and cost-effective method. Stack the wood in a well-ventilated area and allow it to dry naturally. The drying time will depend on the type of wood, the climate, and the size of the pieces. Generally, hardwoods take 6-12 months to season properly.
• Kiln Drying: A faster and more controlled method. The wood is placed in a kiln and heated to a specific temperature to remove moisture. Kiln-dried wood is typically ready to use in a matter of weeks.
• Solar Kilns: A more environmentally friendly alternative to traditional kilns. Solar kilns use sunlight to heat the wood and remove moisture.

Moisture Content Targets:

• Firewood: Below 20% moisture content for optimal burning.
• Construction Lumber: 19% or less for preventing rot and warping.

Testing Moisture Content:

• Use a moisture meter to accurately measure the moisture content of the wood. These meters are relatively inexpensive and easy to use.

Original Case Study: Restoring a Rotting Deck

I once helped a neighbor restore a deck that had suffered significant rot due to poor drainage and lack of maintenance. The deck was built with pressure-treated lumber, but the wood had been exposed to excessive moisture for years, leading to widespread decay.

Steps Taken:

1. Removal of Rotting Wood: We removed all the rotting boards and posts.
2. Improved Drainage: We installed a gravel bed around the base of the deck to improve drainage.
3. Replacement with Cedar: We replaced the rotting wood with cedar, which is naturally resistant to decay.
4. Borate Treatment: We treated the cedar with a borate solution to further protect it from insects and fungi.
5. Sealant Application: We applied a sealant to the deck to prevent moisture from penetrating the wood.

The restored deck is now much more resistant to rot and should last for many years to come.

Strategic Insights: Thinking Long-Term

Beyond the tactical steps, consider these strategic insights for long-term wood care:

• Preventative Maintenance: Regular inspections and maintenance are key to preventing wood damage. Address problems early before they become major issues.
• Proper Design: When building wooden structures, consider the climate and environment. Design the structure to promote drainage and air circulation.
• Sustainable Wood Sourcing: Choose wood from sustainable sources to protect our forests and ensure a long-term supply of quality lumber. Look for certifications like FSC (Forest Stewardship Council).
• Continuous Learning: Stay up-to-date on the latest wood care techniques and products. Attend workshops, read articles, and consult with experts.

Challenges Faced by Global DIYers and Small-Scale Logging Businesses

DIYers and small-scale logging businesses around the world often face unique challenges:

• Limited Access to Tools and Equipment: In some regions, access to chainsaws, log splitters, and other essential tools may be limited or expensive.
• Lack of Training and Expertise: Many DIYers and small-scale loggers lack formal training in wood processing and safety.
• Environmental Regulations: Environmental regulations can vary widely from country to country, making it difficult to comply with local laws.
• Market Access: Small-scale logging businesses may struggle to compete with larger companies and access markets for their products.

Addressing These Challenges:

• Community Workshops: Organize community workshops to provide training in wood processing and safety.
• Tool Sharing Programs: Establish tool sharing programs to make essential tools more accessible to DIYers and small-scale loggers.
• Sustainable Forestry Practices: Promote sustainable forestry practices to protect forests and ensure a long-term supply of wood.
• Cooperative Marketing: Encourage small-scale logging businesses to form cooperatives to improve their market access.

Next Steps: Putting Knowledge into Action

Now that you have a solid understanding of shrub removal and wood care, it’s time to put your knowledge into action.

1. Assess Your Property: Identify any areas where shrubs are growing too close to your foundation or where wood is exposed to moisture.
2. Create a Plan: Develop a plan for removing the shrubs and implementing the wood care tips outlined in this guide.
3. Gather Your Tools and Materials: Assemble the necessary tools and materials.
4. Get to Work: Start removing the shrubs and implementing your wood care plan.
5. Monitor Your Progress: Regularly monitor your progress and make adjustments as needed.

Remember, wood care is an ongoing process. By following these tips and staying vigilant, you can protect the wood around your property and ensure its longevity.

Conclusion: A Legacy of Wood Care

Taking care of the wood around your property is more than just a chore; it’s an investment in the future. By removing shrubs, promoting air circulation, and using wood preservatives, you can protect your home, your firewood, and the environment. I hope this guide has provided you with the knowledge and confidence you need to tackle your wood care projects with success. Now, go out there and create a legacy of wood care!

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