Remington Rodeo RM5118R Parts Guide (5 Must-Know Fixes)

It was a crisp autumn morning, the kind where the air bites at your cheeks and the scent of pine hangs heavy. I was knee-deep in a project, helping a friend clear some fallen trees after a particularly nasty storm. He’d recently inherited his grandfather’s old Remington Rodeo RM5118R chainsaw, a real workhorse back in its day, but now sputtering and struggling. He looked at me, a mix of hope and despair in his eyes, “Think you can get this thing running, Mark? I really don’t want to buy a new one.”

That day, wrestling with that stubborn Remington, I realized the sheer number of people out there relying on these older, but often incredibly durable, machines. The internet’s awash with generic chainsaw repair advice, but finding specific guidance for a model like the RM5118R? That’s a different story. That’s why I decided to create this guide, focusing on the “Remington Rodeo RM5118R Parts Guide (5 Must-Know Fixes).” I intend to provide a clear, step-by-step approach to some of the most common issues I’ve encountered with this particular model, ensuring that you can keep your saw running smoothly and safely for years to come. This guide is aimed at users from beginners to intermediate.

Understanding the Remington Rodeo RM5118R

Before diving into the fixes, let’s briefly understand what we’re dealing with. The Remington Rodeo RM5118R is a gas-powered chainsaw known for its 18-inch bar and relatively powerful engine. It’s a popular choice for homeowners and small-scale users who need a reliable tool for felling small trees, limbing branches, and cutting firewood. However, like any machine, it’s prone to wear and tear, especially with age. Knowing the common problem areas can save you time, money, and potential frustration.

Key Components: A Quick Overview

Understanding the different parts of the chainsaw is essential for effective troubleshooting and repair. Here’s a breakdown of some key components:

• Engine: The heart of the chainsaw, responsible for providing power. It consists of a cylinder, piston, crankshaft, and other essential parts.
• Carburetor: Mixes air and fuel to create a combustible mixture for the engine.
• Ignition System: Generates the spark needed to ignite the fuel-air mixture in the cylinder. This includes the spark plug, ignition coil, and flywheel.
• Fuel System: Delivers fuel from the fuel tank to the carburetor. This includes the fuel lines, fuel filter, and fuel pump (if equipped).
• Chain and Bar: The cutting components of the chainsaw. The chain is a loop of interconnected cutting teeth that rotates around the bar.
• Clutch: Connects the engine to the chain. When the engine idles, the clutch disengages, preventing the chain from rotating.
• Oiling System: Lubricates the chain and bar to reduce friction and wear. This includes the oil tank, oil pump, and oil lines.
• Air Filter: Prevents dirt and debris from entering the engine.
• Muffler: Reduces noise and directs exhaust gases away from the operator.

Safety First!

Before attempting any repairs, always disconnect the spark plug wire and ensure the chainsaw is cool. Wear appropriate safety gear, including safety glasses, gloves, and ear protection. Work in a well-ventilated area, and never work on a chainsaw when you are tired or distracted.

1. The Carburetor Conundrum: Cleaning and Adjustment

The carburetor is often the culprit when a chainsaw refuses to start or runs poorly. Over time, fuel can degrade and leave behind deposits that clog the small passages within the carburetor. This leads to a lean fuel mixture, making the engine difficult to start and causing it to run erratically.

I remember one time, I was helping a neighbor cut firewood. His chainsaw, a different model, but with similar carburetor issues, kept stalling every few minutes. After a thorough cleaning and adjustment, it ran like a charm for the rest of the day. That experience taught me the importance of regular carburetor maintenance.

Step-by-Step Carburetor Cleaning

Tools Needed:

• Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)
• Carburetor cleaner
• Compressed air
• Small brushes or pipe cleaners
• Clean rags

Procedure:

1. Access the Carburetor: Begin by removing the air filter cover and the air filter itself. This will usually involve unscrewing a few screws. Once the air filter is removed, you should see the carburetor. The exact location and mounting method will vary slightly depending on your model, but it’s typically attached to the engine with a few bolts or screws.
2. Disconnect Fuel Lines and Linkages: Carefully disconnect the fuel lines from the carburetor. Make sure to note which line goes where, or take a picture for reference. Disconnect any throttle linkages or choke linkages that are connected to the carburetor. These are usually held in place by small clips or screws.
3. Remove the Carburetor: Unscrew the bolts or screws holding the carburetor to the engine. Gently pull the carburetor away from the engine. Be careful not to damage any gaskets or seals.
4. Disassemble the Carburetor: This is where it gets a bit more intricate. Most carburetors have a bowl at the bottom that holds fuel. Remove this bowl by unscrewing the bolt or screw that holds it in place. Inside the bowl, you’ll find the main jet. Carefully remove the main jet using a small screwdriver.
5. Clean the Components: Spray all the carburetor components with carburetor cleaner. Use small brushes or pipe cleaners to scrub away any deposits or buildup. Pay particular attention to the jets and the small passages within the carburetor body.
6. Blow Out with Compressed Air: Use compressed air to blow out all the passages and orifices in the carburetor. This will help to remove any remaining debris or cleaner.
7. Reassemble the Carburetor: Carefully reassemble the carburetor, making sure all the components are properly seated. Replace any worn or damaged gaskets or seals.
8. Reinstall the Carburetor: Reattach the carburetor to the engine, reconnect the fuel lines and linkages, and reinstall the air filter and air filter cover.

Carburetor Adjustment

Once the carburetor is clean and reinstalled, you’ll need to adjust it for optimal performance. Most carburetors have two adjustment screws: the “H” screw (high-speed) and the “L” screw (low-speed). These screws control the amount of fuel that is mixed with air at different engine speeds.

Procedure:

1. Locate the Adjustment Screws: The “H” and “L” screws are usually located on the side of the carburetor. Consult your owner’s manual for the exact location.
2. Initial Settings: As a starting point, turn both screws all the way in (clockwise) until they are lightly seated. Then, back them out (counterclockwise) 1 to 1.5 turns. This is a good starting point for most carburetors.
3. Start the Engine: Start the chainsaw and let it warm up for a few minutes.
4. Adjust the Low-Speed Screw (L): With the engine idling, slowly turn the “L” screw in or out until the engine idles smoothly. If the engine stalls or runs roughly, adjust the screw until it idles smoothly.
5. Adjust the High-Speed Screw (H): With the engine running at full throttle (with the chain brake engaged for safety), slowly turn the “H” screw in or out until the engine runs smoothly and powerfully. If the engine bogs down or hesitates when you accelerate, adjust the screw until it runs smoothly. Caution: Do not run the engine too lean (by turning the “H” screw too far in), as this can damage the engine.
6. Fine-Tune the Idle Speed: If the engine idles too fast or too slow, you can adjust the idle speed screw (usually marked “T”) to fine-tune the idle speed.

Important Note: Carburetor adjustment can be tricky, and it’s easy to damage the engine if you’re not careful. If you’re not comfortable performing this procedure yourself, it’s best to take your chainsaw to a qualified repair technician.

2. Fuel System Foibles: Lines, Filters, and Tanks

A clean carburetor is useless if the fuel isn’t getting to it properly. The fuel system, including the fuel lines, fuel filter, and fuel tank, can often be a source of problems. Old fuel lines can crack and leak, fuel filters can become clogged, and fuel tanks can accumulate debris.

I once spent an entire afternoon troubleshooting a chainsaw that simply wouldn’t start. After checking everything else, I finally discovered that the fuel filter was completely clogged with debris. Replacing the filter solved the problem instantly.

Checking and Replacing Fuel Lines

Tools Needed:

• Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)
• Pliers
• New fuel lines (compatible with the RM5118R)
• Fuel filter (if replacing)

Procedure:

1. Inspect the Fuel Lines: Carefully inspect the fuel lines for cracks, leaks, or other damage. Pay particular attention to the areas where the lines connect to the fuel tank and the carburetor.
2. Replace Damaged Fuel Lines: If you find any damaged fuel lines, replace them immediately. To remove the old fuel lines, use pliers to gently pull them off the fuel tank and the carburetor. Be careful not to damage the fittings.
3. Install New Fuel Lines: Install the new fuel lines, making sure they are securely attached to the fuel tank and the carburetor. Use the correct size fuel lines for your chainsaw.
4. Check for Leaks: After installing the new fuel lines, check for leaks by filling the fuel tank with fuel and observing the lines for any signs of leakage.

Replacing the Fuel Filter

The fuel filter is located inside the fuel tank and is designed to prevent dirt and debris from entering the carburetor. Over time, the fuel filter can become clogged, restricting fuel flow and causing the engine to run poorly.

Procedure:

1. Access the Fuel Filter: Remove the fuel cap and use a piece of wire or a hook to pull the fuel filter out of the fuel tank.
2. Inspect the Fuel Filter: Inspect the fuel filter for dirt, debris, or damage. If the filter is clogged or damaged, replace it.
3. Install the New Fuel Filter: Attach the new fuel filter to the fuel line and carefully insert it back into the fuel tank.

Cleaning the Fuel Tank

Over time, debris can accumulate in the fuel tank, contaminating the fuel and clogging the fuel filter. Cleaning the fuel tank can help to prevent these problems.

Procedure:

1. Drain the Fuel Tank: Drain all the fuel from the fuel tank.
2. Remove the Fuel Tank: Remove the fuel tank from the chainsaw. The exact procedure will vary depending on your model, but it usually involves unscrewing a few bolts or screws.
3. Clean the Fuel Tank: Rinse the fuel tank with clean fuel or a mild detergent solution. Use a brush or rag to scrub away any dirt or debris.
4. Rinse Thoroughly: Rinse the fuel tank thoroughly with clean water to remove any remaining detergent.
5. Dry the Fuel Tank: Allow the fuel tank to dry completely before reinstalling it.
6. Reinstall the Fuel Tank: Reinstall the fuel tank on the chainsaw and reconnect the fuel lines.

3. Ignition Issues: Spark Plug and Ignition Coil

If the engine isn’t getting a spark, it won’t start. The spark plug and ignition coil are the key components of the ignition system. A fouled spark plug or a faulty ignition coil can prevent the engine from firing.

I recall a frustrating experience where a chainsaw refused to start despite having a clean carburetor and a clear fuel system. After testing the spark plug, I discovered that it was completely dead. Replacing the spark plug solved the problem instantly.

Checking and Replacing the Spark Plug

Tools Needed:

• Spark plug wrench
• New spark plug (compatible with the RM5118R)
• Spark plug gap tool

Procedure:

1. Access the Spark Plug: Locate the spark plug on the engine. It’s usually located near the cylinder head. Remove the spark plug wire from the spark plug.
2. Remove the Spark Plug: Use the spark plug wrench to remove the spark plug from the engine.
3. Inspect the Spark Plug: Inspect the spark plug for damage, fouling, or wear. A healthy spark plug should have a clean, dry electrode. If the spark plug is fouled with carbon deposits or oil, clean it with a wire brush or replace it.
4. Gap the Spark Plug: Use a spark plug gap tool to set the gap between the center electrode and the ground electrode to the manufacturer’s specifications. Consult your owner’s manual for the correct gap setting.
5. Install the New Spark Plug: Install the new spark plug into the engine and tighten it securely with the spark plug wrench.
6. Reattach the Spark Plug Wire: Reattach the spark plug wire to the spark plug.

Testing and Replacing the Ignition Coil

The ignition coil is responsible for generating the high-voltage spark that ignites the fuel-air mixture in the cylinder. A faulty ignition coil can prevent the engine from starting.

Tools Needed:

• Multimeter
• Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)
• New ignition coil (compatible with the RM5118R)

Procedure:

1. Test the Ignition Coil: Use a multimeter to test the ignition coil for continuity. Consult your owner’s manual for the correct testing procedure. If the ignition coil fails the continuity test, it needs to be replaced.
2. Access the Ignition Coil: Locate the ignition coil on the engine. It’s usually located near the flywheel.
3. Disconnect the Ignition Coil: Disconnect the wires from the ignition coil.
4. Remove the Ignition Coil: Unscrew the bolts or screws holding the ignition coil to the engine.
5. Install the New Ignition Coil: Install the new ignition coil on the engine and tighten the bolts or screws securely.
6. Reconnect the Ignition Coil: Reconnect the wires to the ignition coil.
7. Set the Air Gap: The air gap between the ignition coil and the flywheel is crucial for proper operation. Use a business card or a specialized air gap tool to set the air gap to the manufacturer’s specifications.

4. Chain and Bar Blues: Sharpening, Tensioning, and Lubrication

A dull chain or a poorly maintained bar can significantly reduce the chainsaw’s cutting performance and increase the risk of kickback. Proper chain sharpening, tensioning, and lubrication are essential for safe and efficient operation.

I once witnessed a serious accident caused by a dull chain. The operator was struggling to cut through a log, and the chainsaw suddenly kicked back, injuring his arm. That incident reinforced the importance of maintaining a sharp chain.

Chain Sharpening

Tools Needed:

• Chainsaw file
• File guide (optional)
• Depth gauge tool
• Gloves

Procedure:

1. Secure the Chainsaw: Secure the chainsaw in a vise or on a stable surface.
2. Identify the Cutting Teeth: Identify the cutting teeth on the chain. Each tooth has a cutting edge and a depth gauge.
3. Sharpen the Cutting Teeth: Use the chainsaw file to sharpen the cutting teeth. Hold the file at the correct angle and file each tooth with smooth, even strokes. Use a file guide to maintain the correct angle and depth.
4. Lower the Depth Gauges: Use the depth gauge tool to lower the depth gauges to the manufacturer’s specifications. This will prevent the chain from grabbing and kicking back.
5. Check the Chain for Sharpness: After sharpening the chain, check the cutting teeth for sharpness. The teeth should be sharp and uniform.

Chain Tensioning

Proper chain tension is crucial for safe and efficient operation. A chain that is too loose can derail, while a chain that is too tight can overheat and break.

Procedure:

1. Loosen the Bar Nuts: Loosen the bar nuts that hold the bar in place.
2. Adjust the Tensioning Screw: Use the tensioning screw to adjust the chain tension. The chain should be snug against the bar but should still be able to be pulled around the bar by hand.
3. Tighten the Bar Nuts: Tighten the bar nuts securely.
4. Check the Chain Tension: Check the chain tension again after tightening the bar nuts.

Chain and Bar Lubrication

Proper lubrication is essential for reducing friction and wear on the chain and bar.

Procedure:

1. Check the Oil Level: Check the oil level in the oil tank.
2. Fill the Oil Tank: Fill the oil tank with chainsaw bar and chain oil.
3. Adjust the Oiler: Adjust the oiler to provide adequate lubrication to the chain and bar. The amount of oil needed will vary depending on the type of wood you are cutting and the size of the chainsaw.
4. Check for Proper Lubrication: Check for proper lubrication by running the chainsaw at full throttle and observing the chain and bar. The chain should be coated with oil.

5. Air Filter Follies: Cleaning and Replacement

A clean air filter is essential for proper engine performance. A clogged air filter restricts airflow to the engine, causing it to run poorly and overheat.

I once worked on a chainsaw that was constantly stalling and losing power. After checking everything else, I discovered that the air filter was completely clogged with sawdust. Cleaning the air filter restored the engine’s performance immediately.

Cleaning the Air Filter

Tools Needed:

• Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)
• Compressed air
• Mild detergent solution
• Clean water

Procedure:

1. Access the Air Filter: Remove the air filter cover and the air filter itself.
2. Clean the Air Filter: Clean the air filter with compressed air or a mild detergent solution. If using compressed air, blow the air from the inside out to remove dirt and debris. If using a detergent solution, wash the air filter thoroughly and rinse it with clean water.
3. Dry the Air Filter: Allow the air filter to dry completely before reinstalling it.
4. Reinstall the Air Filter: Reinstall the air filter and the air filter cover.

Replacing the Air Filter

If the air filter is damaged or excessively dirty, it should be replaced.

Tools Needed:

• Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)
• New air filter (compatible with the RM5118R)

Procedure:

1. Access the Air Filter: Remove the air filter cover and the air filter itself.
2. Remove the Old Air Filter: Remove the old air filter.
3. Install the New Air Filter: Install the new air filter.
4. Reinstall the Air Filter Cover: Reinstall the air filter cover.

Preventative Maintenance: The Key to Longevity

Beyond these five common fixes, preventative maintenance is crucial for extending the life of your Remington Rodeo RM5118R. This includes:

• Using Fresh Fuel: Always use fresh fuel mixed with the correct ratio of oil. Old fuel can degrade and cause problems with the carburetor and fuel system. I always recommend using fuel stabilizer, especially if you don’t use your chainsaw frequently. I’ve seen it add years to the life of small engines.
• Storing the Chainsaw Properly: When storing the chainsaw for an extended period, drain the fuel tank and run the engine until it stalls. This will prevent fuel from degrading and clogging the carburetor. I also recommend removing the chain and bar and cleaning them thoroughly before storing them.
• Regularly Inspecting the Chainsaw: Regularly inspect the chainsaw for any signs of wear, damage, or leaks. Address any problems promptly to prevent them from becoming more serious.
• Following the Manufacturer’s Recommendations: Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for maintenance and repair. Consult your owner’s manual for specific instructions.

Case Study: Reviving a Neglected RM5118R

I once acquired an RM5118R that had been sitting in a shed for years, completely neglected. The fuel tank was full of old, gummy fuel, the chain was rusty, and the engine wouldn’t even turn over. It looked like a lost cause.

However, I decided to take on the challenge of reviving it. I started by completely disassembling the chainsaw and cleaning every component. I cleaned the carburetor, replaced the fuel lines and fuel filter, replaced the spark plug, and sharpened the chain. I also had to free up the piston, which had become stuck due to the old fuel.

After reassembling the chainsaw, I added fresh fuel and tried to start it. To my surprise, it fired up on the first pull! It ran a bit rough at first, but after adjusting the carburetor, it ran smoothly and powerfully.

This experience demonstrated the importance of perseverance and attention to detail when working on older chainsaws. Even a seemingly hopeless machine can be brought back to life with a little effort.

Strategic Insights: Choosing the Right Wood for Firewood

While this guide focuses on chainsaw repair, it’s important to consider the bigger picture of firewood preparation. Choosing the right type of wood for firewood can significantly impact its heating value and burning characteristics.

Hardwoods vs. Softwoods:

• Hardwoods: Hardwoods, such as oak, maple, and ash, are denser than softwoods and contain more energy per unit volume. They burn longer and produce more heat. They are generally more expensive and take longer to season.
• Softwoods: Softwoods, such as pine, fir, and spruce, are less dense than hardwoods and contain less energy per unit volume. They burn faster and produce less heat. They are generally less expensive and season more quickly.

Seasoning Firewood:

Seasoning firewood is the process of drying the wood to reduce its moisture content. Green wood (freshly cut wood) can have a moisture content of 50% or more. Seasoned firewood should have a moisture content of 20% or less.

Benefits of Seasoning:

• Increased Heating Value: Seasoned firewood burns hotter and more efficiently than green wood.
• Reduced Smoke: Seasoned firewood produces less smoke than green wood.
• Easier to Ignite: Seasoned firewood is easier to ignite than green wood.
• Reduced Creosote Buildup: Seasoned firewood reduces the buildup of creosote in chimneys, which can reduce the risk of chimney fires.

Seasoning Methods:

• Air Drying: The most common method of seasoning firewood is air drying. This involves stacking the firewood in a well-ventilated area and allowing it to dry naturally. The drying time will vary depending on the type of wood, the climate, and the stacking method. Generally, hardwoods take 6-12 months to season, while softwoods take 3-6 months. I recommend stacking the wood off the ground on pallets or logs to improve airflow.
• Kiln Drying: Kiln drying is a faster method of seasoning firewood. This involves placing the firewood in a kiln and using heat and air circulation to dry it. Kiln-dried firewood is typically ready to burn in a matter of days or weeks. However, kiln-dried firewood is more expensive than air-dried firewood.

Measurements and Tool Specifications

• Chainsaw Bar Length: The RM5118R typically uses an 18-inch bar.
• Chain Pitch: The chain pitch is typically 0.325 inches.
• Chain Gauge: The chain gauge is typically 0.050 inches.
• Fuel Mixture Ratio: The fuel mixture ratio is typically 40:1 (fuel to oil).
• Spark Plug Gap: The spark plug gap is typically 0.025 inches.
• Chainsaw File Size: A 5/32-inch chainsaw file is commonly used for sharpening the chain.
• Log Splitter Tonnage: For splitting firewood, a log splitter with a tonnage of 20-25 tons is typically sufficient.

Next Steps: Putting Knowledge into Action

Now that you have a better understanding of the Remington Rodeo RM5118R and its common problems, it’s time to put your knowledge into action. Start by inspecting your chainsaw and identifying any areas that need attention. Gather the necessary tools and supplies, and follow the step-by-step guides outlined in this article.

Remember to prioritize safety and work in a well-ventilated area. If you’re not comfortable performing any of these repairs yourself, don’t hesitate to seek help from a qualified repair technician.

By taking the time to properly maintain your chainsaw, you can ensure that it runs smoothly and safely for years to come. And with a little knowledge and effort, you can keep your Remington Rodeo RM5118R running like a true workhorse.

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